Nixon1

I know you guys must be just biting your tongues and cursing to yourself to see another one of 'these' posts...but I tell ya, I gotta do it. You can cut past the major tuneup part...I've already checked that out. Here's the deal. I'm buying a code scanner at Autozone tomorrow..hopefully it's gonna tell me what the hell's up with my sensors/engine. Those are going on my to-fix list. Now..that leaves me with roughly $1000 to spend. I decided to keep my baby and make her run all nice. Now..problem is, I don't really have many tools I can work with..just a hex-head set, few screwdrivers, a few wrenches...an old brolken welder of some sort. So, I can't really do the more advanced work myself. That and I don't know anything either. Lol... None of my friends have access to this stuff either, so let's just assume I have to pay a shop for parts installation at, about, $40 an hour. With that $1000..what's going to give me the best bang for my buck? I'm thinking of getting a dynomax cat-back system..and with any leftover money, putting in a CAI system. I don't wanna do Flowmaster for exhaust cause I've heard nasty things about them on V-6's. That and a buddy of mine has one on his 2.8...granted, the pipes are split open, but still...thing sounds terrible. Feedback? Ohhh, what kind of options should I look for for a shift kit? I get the feeling mine already had an electronic shift enhancer hooked up cause it shifts too d*mned race-style to be stock. Thanks....you guys are the best. Keep your fingers crossed that this car is gonna hold up...if it does, it's gonna be one nice little 6-er.

Nixon1

Had to post it. This is me & my buddy's 2.8 that I repeatedly smack senseless.

WaynesRS

Yeah , Don't get the flowmaster . There just to loud for a V6 and they can get ***** sounding .DYNOMAX !!! dynomax super turbo .I love it and many others do . I have a shiftkit , but Im not going to recommend it to you b/c some of these can damage the tranny after awhile , I don't know the effects of it . BUT , I WILL RECOMEND A TRANSGO !!! I have heard nothing good about them .Some nice 8 mm , 8.5 or 8.8 mm wires are also fun to do . You won't see anything in performance gain .You might see a little on the interstate (passing) ..top end performace .But thats prabably because your old wires were worn some . I just like the looks of aftermarket colorful wires under a hood , and I think most other guys around here do to

TOOLS: I have two words , SEARS , CRAFTSMAN !

They're having a big clearance sale right now , you can get you a nice tool set for $90.00 -$120 , and these are the mechanic tool sets , not just the general purpose ones .

Nixon1

Hey Wayne....typo? Lol. I've been considering either a B&M or a TransGo shiftkit. But I'd prefer to go all the way with one because, like I said, my shifting is already modified. I just need to firm up the shift just a TAD more, but I REALLY need to change the computer shift points. It's terrible. Freakin thing doesn't get out of 1st until about 5800, when I need it to get out at about 5000. But there's computer programmers for that right? Hypertech or something....fairly expensive, but they have some cool features. I dunno, what do you guys think?

Brian K

The best bang for the buck:

Crane 2030 cam = 159.99
Double Roller Chain = 59.99

Labor = 450.00

Dynomax cat back = 139.99 (do it yourself)

Enjoy the ride

Nixon1

Getting that put in is gonna require an engine rebuild...right? So I figure, instead of paying for 2 rebuilds, I might as well get all of the stuff I wanna do with that done at once. If I'm going the naturally aspirated route, I'll put in high compression pistons.. I don't know what roller-rockers even are, but I'm assuming you need to do some engine dis-assembling for those. I'm thinking of saving the engine work until I get a higher paying job, and just doing stuff like intake and exhaust until then. That way, when I do do engine, I'll have more than I have now to work with, and I can get everything done in one hit. So, what would you recommend along the lines of intake and exhaust? Any particular dynomax cat-back kit? And I doubt I could do exhaust myself, like I said, not enough tools and I don't have a welder of any kind, nor the knowledge to use one if I did. There's a local shop here though that specializes in mufflers and brake jobs..they do exhaust work cheaper than most around here.

Nixon1

By the way guys...the Dynomax Super Turbo sounds good, but question...is it loud? I know mine's a V-6..and I'm not trying to trick any moron into thinking it's a V-8.....but I do want my exhaust to be loud..not some mellow low pitched, barely-audible tone. I want you to hear my idle. I know my stock exhaust is already pretty loud, on the pedal from behind at least..it's quiet as a cat at idle. Is the Dynomax any louder? And how about the sound volume in the cabin area? I just want 2 things from a muffler...volume and performance (obviously).

TomP

I have the Dynomax Super Turbo cat-back, and yeah, it's louder than stock. My original system rusted off inside the muffler, and the muffler fell off at the i-pipe connection. Oops. Anyway, the car was as loud with no muffler and just an I-pipe, as it was with the Dynomax installed. When I first fired up the car, I thought I forgot to connect a pipe. You'll be able to hear it from inside the car. You don't need a welder to put the Dynomax cat-back on. Clamps will hold an exhaust system just fine. I haven't had a clamp loosen on me yet. The Super Turbo Cat-back is Dynomax part #17493, which makes it SummitRacing.com part #WLK-17493. It's the direct bolt-in.

But, the 84-92 700r4 automatic trannies are NOT electronically controlled. The only computer connection is for the TCC, torque convertor clutch, and that's just an electric "engage/disengage" signal. You'd need to alter your shifting mechanically. The B&M kits work, but are not as "nice" to the trans as the TransGo kits are. 'Course, the TransGo kit is about $120 while the B&M kit is $25... you get what you pay for. I installed the B&M kit myself, and it does give firmer shifts- but I didn't know at the time that the kit was so hated. When I rebuilt this trans, I'll put a TransGo kit in it. Beware; a worn-out trans that's about to blow will also shift hard. Don't put a shift kit into a trans that's really worn out, it'll kill the trans.

I'm with Wayne on the tools! I think you should do the exhaust and the mods yourself, and spend that $40/hour on tools and a Haynes manual. A torque wrench is invaluable, as is a set of open-ended wrenches, and if you can swing it, a set of 1/2 drive, 6 point sockets. (6 points don't wear a bolthead's corners down as much, they're stronger). I bought a set of 1/2" drive, 6 point metric sockets from Craftsman for (I think) $25. They work so much better than my 12 points do. Also, stick to name brands (Craftsman, Husky, Matco, Snapon- I have a few, wow) instead of no-namers. The no-name sockets ruin fast, and they wind up ruining bolt heads, and then you get stuck with rounding off a bolt. Also pick up a breaker bar- a lonnnng ratchet handle, without the ratchet.

Think about having 3.73 gears installed. This is almost a must for having installed, since there's a few measurements that need to be exact (such as preload and backlash), otherwise, you can destroy your gears with one drive around the block! Figure gears = $200, installation = $200.

Nixon1

Loudness is JUST what I wanted to hear..thanks Tom. I thought at first my tranny was very worn down, because of the hard shifting..but the funny part is, I've never missed a gear and only very very occasionally jumped out of gear for just a second or two (at least I think that's the circumstance, because I feel a kick through the pedal/floorplating and a metallic thump and grind sort of noise] Now, it's news to me that our transmissions aren't computer controlled. Here I have been thinking all along that our model 700r4's were hydraulic comp-controlled... Please tell me at least I got the hydraulic part right. Now..food for thought... I doubt it'd be worth my money for a brand new transmission..nor could I afford it...and I wouldn't trust some junkyard tranny. It'd probably drop as soon as I put it in. What kinda deals could I get on a rebuild of my current? Would it be worth the money/risk? The clamps for the muffler part is good news. I have a couple ramps that I could run the car up and park it and do the work myself no problemo. I just don't know whether my old one is clamped or welded. Just gotta be careful getting up there too...my throttle isn't exactly featherlight. I go down a little, nothing, little more, nothing, tad more and the car kicks forward....I'm royally f*cked if I hop over the sucker. They're steep enough that I know the car won't climb them at idle.

Nixon1

Hey, check this out..in a magazine of mine. Hurst Dual Gate 2 shifter. The classic dual function shifter, in a custom-fit application for 82-92 Camaros with the TH700-R4. Has street and race gates for standard or reverse valve bodies, illuminated shift indicator dial, uses the stock GM cable, and fits in the console.. $229. I dunno sh*t about shifters or what all this means..but the picture shows the shifter with printing on both sides..one the normal automatic printing, and the other going from the bottom up, labeled 1, 2, 3, 4... Does it work like a stick without the clutch when shifted in that 2nd mode? Like how you'd do 1>2>Drive, but with control all the way up? *** I hope so..that'd be great. Except it still uses the original shift points, correct? Oh well, I'll have those changed with the shift kit before I buy the shifter.

KED85

IF I WAS YOU
W/your buudget.
Start, exhaust.
GO to the wrecking yards and get a spare V-6 "Y" pipe & a V-8 intermediate pipe, (latest model year possible).
Next
Phone 800-888-8892
Don's Hot Rod, Phoenix AZ.
Get new 2 1/2" in-n-out CC ($60)
Dyno max muffler with Z-28 style exhaust tips (one per side).
Have your muffler shop create you
a HIGH FLOW stock exhaust manifold to CC (look down passenger side exhaust to see why!), the CC installed, followed by the V-8 intermediate pipe (which is 1/2" larger than the V-6 & highest quality piping you can get, that bolts in), followed by the twin tip Dynomax muffler set up.
See how that feels in your seat of your pants & your wallet ($$ left over).

IF YOU MUST & should, hop up ignition.
Rebuild your distributor (usually free), parts are extra. AC or the "good" brands at a good cost. Don't forget Hi Po coil & wires to match, plugs, too! $100-150.
Next, timing chain & water pump. $55 cost.

Get many of these parts at Northern Auto Parts 800-831-0884.

See how well your ride responds to all this, with your current platform (current gears & tranny & gas milage).

You should still have about $600, left over after all those tips. And a strong, reliable, running ride. A win-win deal for you.

I'd bank that $600, towards a 3.4 when your 3.1 dies.
I swapped in a running 40K 3.4 for $800 including engine. All those restored engine management systems swapped right over to my 3.4.

Nixon1

Thanks..I'll definitely keep all that in mind. And by the way...no timing chain...I'm running a serpentine system. One big ole belt for every frickin thing on tne entire car.

KED85

The timing chain, is behind the water pump, timing chain cover, behind your serpintine belt set up.
You cannot see it.
IF you have close to & over 75K miles, your timing chain needs replacement.
Timing chain attaches the crank to cam shaft, to keep engine in proper timing & power sync. When it wears, stretches, power is lost.
Look at a bicycle chain.
Tensioner keeps chain slack minimal.
Our V-6 rides do not have that feature
Thus.....
It is a very wise engine part replacement job to have done to your ride.
IF your idle is erratic, this worn chain very likey can contribute to the cause or may be the complete cause.
ANY TIME YOU HOP UP IGNITION YOU GAIN BACK HP & GAS MILAGE & SMOOTHER IDLE!
Always a win-win
I really wouldn't touch anything else on yor ride beyond the suggestions I offered (no cam nor rocker arm jobs).
You can be very pleasantly please & surprised how good your ride will become.

Nixon1

Ohh, so they hide the timing chain from us... Ha..I always thought we didn't have one, that the serpentine belt drove everything. And my car has 101,000 miles and counting, and I'm sure the thing hasn't been touched, considering the condition of everything else in my car when I bought it. And my idle isn't real erratic, it's only slightly RPM-jumpey, but the engine shakes the HELL out of the car..everything vibrates, from the steering wheel to the ashtray. And my bad smog pump pulley doesn't make it better... ["Squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak"]

Crazy Firebird Kid

As for the tranny, check the temporary classifieds on this site. Theres a guys selling a rebuilt 700r4 for $500. Its probably a V8, but he also says he has more to come, so you might wanna toss him an e-mail and see if he might have some V6 700r4s coming or see if he might be able to hook up a good deal on one.

KED85

A worn smog pump bearing will NOT cause any problems, UNTIL the bearing seizes.
Save that item for last.

Nixon1

And what happens when that bearing seizes? It's not very expensive work to get the thing replaced...even my local ma and pa garage estimated like $140 or less. And the last time I had work done by them, they charged me like $25 under the estimate because "it was easier than we thought". I'm glad it's my spog pump. With the sound detector thing, the sounds went across the engine and got amplified in the water pump..so I thought my water pump was shot, which worried me. But when I took the belt off and spun each pulley..the water pump was silent, and the smog pump went "screeek".

I just noticed the typo up there, 'spog pump'..but you know, I'm not fixing it. Sounds too funny to erase.