willexoIX

Ok, i lied. Checked the box and here they are

Time to kick it into overdrive!

willexoIX

To rewrap or not to rewrap the xover pipe? That is the question...

The dp is wrapped up until it leaves the engine bay. The log headers are both wrapped. Should I even bother to rewrap the xover or just recoat it?

Mainly what Im thinking of is the oil pan. About 2 inches or so of clearance. Will flow under the car be enough to somewhat cool it off? Its actually a hair lower than the kmember, the bottom of the pipe that is.

willexoIX

Hey Mark, did you install the copper collector gaskets dry when you used them?

Im kinda torn on whether I want to run the 50% crush remflex gaskets, or the coppers. The coppers have the crush ring on them.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I still put some anti seize on them. Not sure if that helped but i used it to hold the gasket onto the flange while i put bolt holes on there...lol

project89

iTrader: (1)

get ur butt in gear man

heres mine as of an hour anda half ago

willexoIX

I saw that. Man it sounds mean as $*#&. I already drove mine once, it just ran so well it caught fire! LOL!

Im in the process of tightening down the collectors. Sucks cause I have no way to tell what torque they are. Theres no room for the torque wrench so Im kinda doing it by eye. Once the gap is closed up im doing a full turn and I will go more if it leaks when I start it.

I should be able to tell with the muffler on now, lol. It should be a little more tame Ill start her tomorrow, and grab a vid for everyone to see.

willexoIX

Well its back on the ground now, but too late to start it here. Itd **** alot of people off, lol.

I still have to finish the vent on the hood. Figured Id fix the xover and cure it and get it on since I got the gaskets. I think there will probably be a couple small leaks, shoulda put the remflex gaskets on first. Its a real bi*ch to get the one bolt on the drivers side collector tight, theres only room for half a turn at a time with an open end wrench.

1. Finish vent
2. Cut out battery tray

Thats all thats left

willexoIX

Ok, done for the night. One more pic

willexoIX

Well its a cellphone vid in 720p so I dont expect it to be all that great. Still have an exhaust leak on the drivers side collector, so I will probably be taking it back off to put the remflex gaskets on, unless retorquing them clears it up.

Video is done uploading, enjoy! Off to work the swap meet for now, ill be back later.

BTW thats the belt squealing, need to get the right belt.

It sounds pretty badass with the finished exhaust on it

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Idles great! From 1:20 and on put a huge freaking smile on my face, sounds awesome! Great work!

willexoIX

Thanks I actually have to work on the idle still, I had to push the pedal a little bit to get it to keep running till it started to warm up. After that I can let it idle down and it sounds like a v8 with a lopey cam in it, lol. This car is definitely going to throw people for a loop

A little smoke from the header coating but that was about it cause I cured them in the oven. Gotta finish up the vent in the hood and cut the battery tray for the intake. Then deal with that damn collector and take it out and tune it.

Once all thats taken care of ill post up some logs and some driving video for everyone

willexoIX

Also, what are my options for a check valve before the pcv valve? Cut the hard line, install soft line with check valve and clamp it down? As far as I can tell thats my only option for that.

Oh I also have to pull the inspection cover and see if that oil leak is the oil pan or rear main. Hoping its not a rear main, its a pretty good leak :/

willexoIX

Ah Ha! Figured out why the collector wont seal! Its about a collector flanges thickness shorter on the drivers side. Looks like im gonna pull it off and weld another flange to it to even out the distance. Hopefully after that itll seal. Will update in a couple hours.

willexoIX

The way I see it I have 2 options.

Option 1. Cut about an inch off of the passenger side of the xover.
Option 2. Weld an extra collector flange on the drivers side to try to equal the gap

To be honest its a gap of about 2 extra collector flanges.

Pics of the carbon traces on the gaskets, and an extra flange on the xover.

willexoIX

Well the xover is done, lets just hope I dont have any more sealing issues with it cause if I do im getting ball and socket flanges.

And im still trying to figure out how the hell the oil return is leaking around the flange with double gaskets!!!! Would it be ok to use the copper seal spray on the gasket for the oil return?

Also still have to pull the inspection cover to determine the source of my oil leak in the back of the motor.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ive always used rtv orange copper seal on my oil flanges.

willexoIX

I figured id be alright using the copper seal on there, just wanted a confirmation. Im gonna go ahead and just use the remflex gaskets this time and save the coppers just in case.

Hoping on having some logs and vids soon guys.

Also, im not sure whether the rear main or oil pan was leaking cause theres not a whole lotta room to see the back of the motor with the flexplate on. But one of the rear oil pan bolts was slightly loose.

willexoIX

No more collector leak for now. Little exhaust manifold leak drivers side. Oil leak in the back was oil pan, and its gone now. Vband on the back of the turbo has a slight leak, or its the flange itself bolted to the back of the turbo.

Where is this leak coming from? The cartridge bolts cant possibly go any tighter or they will break.



Edit- would the oil wick up the cartridge if it was leaking from the return flange? Its not coming from the top, and there is no oil on the bottom of either half, just the cartridge.

Running a 1000rpm idle in park, 750-800 in gear, any lower and it stalls. 12.5afr at idle. 10+ on the throttle. Also doesnt like to start without going lean.

Soon as these beers wear off ill take it out for a log. Letting the header paint cure again.

willexoIX

Well I called it. Header flanges on the drivers side are cracked too. Ridiculous to say the least. Shoulda just made them myself.

Back on the jackstands AGAIN.

The crankcase is definitely getting pressurized. The valve cover gaskets are leaking again, the harmonic balancer seal is leaking, which is only a year old and never leaked.

project89

iTrader: (1)

if i had the time id build u a set , just do urself a favor buy the tubing and build ur own. u have rewedled those headers how many times now?

maybe fasteddi still has his old setup?

willexoIX

Thanks for the offer Dave.

Hmm, lets see. All 6 header flanges plus the one port that was off. A collector I had to cut off and add pipe to cause it was short. Extending the turbo flange cause it was right in the path of all the accessories and the belt. Need I go on? Ive done enough welding on this setup to have built it myself.

Round 2 I am definitely building myself. Sorry to sound like Im complaining but even for my first turbo setup and being built "on car" like was said it just doesnt add up.

I tack welded the flanges on car so once I pull them off and reweld them im hoping to not find more cracks. Cause if I do im up ***** creek without a paddle because ive got 20 bucks left, and thats not buying what I need to build this myself. So if I cant fix this, it leaves me without a car even if I find a job.

Enough with the sob story and dont feel bad for me cause im the one that decided to buy the setup. Im probably close to $2000 invested in this, so im gonna have to make it work, even if I have to reweld his entire setup. I hope nobody else bought a setup off of him, and thats all I have left to say on that subject.

Back to working on it. Ill update in a little while. Thank god I have plenty of beer left, lol.

willexoIX

And thats not even the flanges. It leaked under the wrap and destroyed the wrap. The wrap came off in pieces.

The good news is the remflex gaskets are awesome. Not a peep from them. Perfect crush too.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I sold my log ones to someone... for some reason there name escapes me..lol But it was a member on here.

Cost to make the headers is so cheep. Flanges are the only real cost and spools of mig wire and gas.

I know its gotta be flustrating man, just try to seal everything up as well as ya can with the welder.

All of those welds you're showing that are leaking, look like it was done way to cold. There was no penetration at all... I get mine so freaking hot if i stop im busting though but once you get the heat/penetration right, the weld joint will outlast the piping.

willexoIX

Well these welds will probably outlast the car, lol. I ran out of wire last night, so I need to run out and grab some more this morning. I have some flux core, but id rather not use it. Good in a pinch but I like using the gas, it comes out much better IMO.

Hopefully Ill be able to take it out today. Will update soon.

Mark, thats exactly what my father said about those welds the moment he saw them, hes been welding for 30 years self taught.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Where do ya think mine came from.... These were the logs I used. Although I didn't run into the problems you did, but I did notice that the welds were separating from the pipe a few times and had to periodically fix them time. I figured it was a one time deal that he didn't weld a few spots good as most of the welds were ok, or I would have given you the heads up when you first looked to get them.

Now that Ive made up my own tube style headers and realized how easy it was...I would never buy headers again off someone just because I don't know if they are a decent welder or not. Not saying im good because my mig welds aren't beautiful, but my stuff doesn't crack or leak on my set up and they never did.

All I can say is keep at it and it will be rewarding in the end, I promise you that.

willexoIX

Yea, my mig welds arent pretty either, but they dont have to be pretty to work. I hear ya, Live and learn. This is a valuable lesson for me to learn.

Im pretty sure the passenger side has a few small leaks in it but im not pulling that one off at this time because of all that has to come out to pull it. Basically the entire turbo setup has to come off. Until the leak gets real bad im not even going to worry about it. The main thing I was worried about was another collector blow out. That first experience kinda scarred me for a while, but the collectors now have a perfect seal.

I got the return oil flange coated and back on. I didnt even notice there were 2 gaskets on it. The vband on the back of the turbo was leaking, so I coated that gasket too. It should run much better when all is said and done. Made another tensioner for the alt bracket, original was 1 3/4 inch between the bolt holes, made another with 3 inches between them. Works out perfect cause now the spring tensioner is where it was with the idler pulley attached.

project89

iTrader: (1)

gind out the old welds or atlest grind them down and do circle or figure 8 passes over them with ur mig as high as u can turn it up without burning threw the tube
are the original welds flux core? if they are and ur using a gas mig u need to grind the welds just about completly off , never mix a flux core and gas weld

if u guys were local id gladly come out and give u guys a hand with ur setups

willexoIX

I welded both sides of the old welds and over top to connect my welds, Im thinking it should be pretty good for now. If anything I did it hot enough to make the old welds penetrate. These welds definitely arent going to break. Probably about an inch wide or wider, I laid it down heavy. We will see soon enough.

Dave I used to live in Middlesex County in Jersey till I moved down to FL in 08. Me and my dad used to go to the NHRA races at E-town every year. Man what a rush standing right behind the barrier. Ive never felt anything quite like it in my life. Also nothing like standing by the trailers when they fired up the alcohol beasts, talk about burn! We were there when Kenny Bernstein came out of retirement to take over for his son when he wrecked his dragster against the wall. Dads got a budweiser jacket with his autograph. Times I will never forget.

project89

iTrader: (1)

thats were i used to live , about 7 miles away from e-town , u prolly have seen me there working on the alcohol dragster when e-town would run the points races , and summer nationals , or just be there to test
we did travel all up and down the east coast to race

i live out west now in utah

willexoIX

Yea I probably have seen you there.

So is going to thicker oil going to stop these leaks? I cant go any tighter on the valve covers without splitting the gasket. Harmonic seal is still seeping. As far as I can tell the oil return leak stopped, but now the oil feed is leaking.

The valve covers are the worst leak ever. Its probably just short of pouring out. I cleaned off both sides of the engine with brake cleaner and it looks like I never cleaned it off and it was only running for 2 minutes max to cure the header paint.

Seems like I will be coating the next set of valve cover gaskets top and bottom with rtv. And how am I doing a check valve before the pcv? Though I dont think the crankcase is being pressurized, I never revved it, just idled it.

And I still have exhaust leaks, but IDGAF anymore cause its not the collectors.

willexoIX

Exhaust leaks are a combination of needing better exhaust manifold gaskets, and the vband on the back of the turbo. Coated the gasket in the vband with copper spray and it still leaks. Even let it tack, put it on, and didnt start it for a full 24 hours.

Anyone recommend better exhaust manifold gaskets then the felpros I used? Someone who has used them cause Im not gonna search and buy some that no one has used. Id like some experience from someone who has used said gasket. Definately something thicker than stock.

Looks like I may go for the remflex 2012 gaskets. Pretty much the same as the collector gaskets and 1/8 inch thick, same 50% crush. $30 for the set so Ill be doing without till I get some funds.
http://catalog.remflex.com/CHEVROLET...ket_p/2012.htm

Gonna look into better thickness gaskets for the 2 1/2 inch vbands as well cause even the stainless gaskets with the ridge leak, no matter how I tighten or use them, they always leak.

Also hear what sounds like a knocking/tapping. Its not in the engine anywhere cause I did the stethoscope method all over and cant hear it anywhere. Gotta be external somewhere.

willexoIX

One more thing, Think it would be ok taking it out with those small exhaust leaks for a log and some tuning? Everything else seems to be fine aside from the valve covers.

I know the exhaust leaks will throw it off some, but its not the collectors leaking anymore, those are tight as a whistle.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

If you are still using these: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...-post1115.html
Make sure the surface of the cover is flat and only toque it down as specified. I've had good results adding rtv to one side of the gasket, and that is only for the convenience of holding it in place while installing the cover. I put nothing on the side that meets the head. I also use the helpers (not sure what they're called) that spread the force of the bolt along the edge of the valve cover. They came stock as far as I know. If you just cram the bolt down it will deform the gasket and bend the valve cover which will pretty much guarantee it to leak.

willexoIX

I checked the valve covers before I installed them for straightness and they were straight. I know what your talking about with the helpers, I have them all and they are all on the right way(they have a top and bottom marking). The only place I used rtv was the area where the head meets the LIM. Im familiar with over tightening gaskets, did that with my first trans pan gasket and learned that lesson. Im probably going to go back to the rubber valve cover gaskets, the cork ones seem to not work as good as I thought they would, plus I only paid a dollar for them, and they are torqued to spec in the book.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

I must have taken the part about splitting the gaskets too seriously then.
FWIW, I'm using cork now. I used to hate them but the last set worked out good this time.
I forgot to mention that I do re tighten them for the first few heat cycles just not very much.

willexoIX

Pretty much what I did. If they were slightly loose Id give them a little snug. I learned early on there are some things you dont crank down, too tight is broke, lol.

project89

iTrader: (1)

yellwo weather strip adhesive works wonders on cork gaskets , dont use any rtv if u get the rubber/silicone ones , it will leak between the rtv and gasket

willexoIX

Hey Dave, while your on. How bad would it be to drive it with the small exhaust gasket leaks?

project89

iTrader: (1)

it will just burn out the rest of the gasket and eventually get anoyingly loud the bigger the leak the longer it will take to spool up as well

willexoIX

Kinda like the collector gasket blowing out and the turbo not spooling at all. No other mechanical problems or anything aside from excessive heat in the engine bay? I removed the cowl seal for more heat extraction.

project89

iTrader: (1)

it will still spool with a header flange leak , when the crossover blows out all the pressure will go out there since it the path of least resistance, as long as theres no plug wires or anything near it that can catch fire ur fine

willexoIX

Good to know. Ill take it out after dinner for a log and some tuning. Def want to work on that IAT correction table soon, its getting hot down here. One thing I like, the IC fan relay is hooked to a switched power source, so if I leave the switch on when I turn the key, while I wait for the WB to heat up it cools the initial intake charge so It doesnt lean out to bad as long as I run the fan before its started

Also the plug wires are routed up and away from the headers/downpipe.

willexoIX

Step 2 of the IC vent. Just gotta grind the welds down. Then filler primer to even it out some. Probably going to rattle can black it until I paint it. Doesnt make much sense to repaint the whole hood, it wouldnt match the rest of the car.

Function over form, for now...

willexoIX

Aaaaaaand forgot the pic

project89

iTrader: (1)

looks good

i got to keep my damaged cowl hoos so im going to do something like this with it



they will be parallel to the cowl feeding both turbos

willexoIX

Dude that will look nuts!

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

badassss I like it!

willexoIX

Mine or Daves? Lmao. That is gonna look pretty sick on his hood though. It makes mine look like just another vent, lol.

willexoIX

I have an idle datalog. Mostly idling, a few revs, couple times just putting it in gear and moving it around the yard. Intake temps were going up cause I was in the sun most of the time, and still havent cut out that battery tray.

Just posting up the log to see if it looks good enough to take it out. Let me know how it looks when you get a chance Dave.

Edit. On another note, seems like the engine is rocking more than before, any clue as to why thats happening? Like more vibration than before, almost seems like a misfire but its not misfiring. Response is good, not perfect but good. I know itll get better once I start tuning it more, I was really only able to get the idle worked on. Have it right around 14.7 give or take about .5.

So Im thinking about shooting for maybe 14.7-15.5 at idle, anywhere from 15-16 at cruise, and around 12 under WOT. Are those good goals? I wanted to give autotune a try but not sure how thats gonna work under boost so Im leaving that alone for now. Other than that Im still reading and trying to wrap my head around spark/timing advance.

project89

iTrader: (1)

dont use auto tune under boost its defualt setting is 14.7 afr .

i downloaded ur log but my friend showed up on his dirtbike and was like lets go so i been out riding all day , i ust got home and holy crap am i sore , soon as i relax a bit and get some food ill take a look

since u have a small turbo 12.0 afr is ok till around 5-7 psi but anymore and ur going to want 11.5, specially the hotter the air gets , the richer mixture wont detonate as easy