willexoIX

AFAIK its not a big gap, they just wont seal if its just flange to flange. Pretty sure they are warped, and they dont exactly line up perfectly. But they are close enough to get the bolts in with some finesse.

Eventually im going to completely redo the headers and crossover, but thats not happening anytime soon.

Heat resistant wise the copper would be better no? And how thick were the ones you got from oriellys?

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

About .040 or so of a inch thick. Roughly 1/16th of a inch or a little less. Believe me I had to finesse the crap out of my old crossmemeber to make it fit the headers and not leak when i was running the log headers. I had to literally use a portapower to spread the x over apart after i made it because i got it too hot and shrinked, so it was too narrow.

willexoIX

Thats kinda how my xover pipe is. Im gonna pull the trigger on those aluminum gaskets and some 1/4 braided fuel/oil line. Hopefully Ill have it back up and running in a couple days.

Damn new valve cover gasket on the passenger side is leaking too. The speedometer cable got melted too. Good thing im using gps for speed.

1991sleeper

iTrader: (-3)

I used those aluminum ones after burning out 2 paper ones ... no problems so far

91' bird 305 TBI T-5, trick flow 175 cc heads, 4.10 gears, lots of suspension upgrades. 24mpg @ 2500rpm hwy. 8.80@ 84mph 1/8th on street tires... 8.000's soon

willexoIX

Yea, seems i have a good amount of back pressure and heat. Even the aluminum ones will blow out for me judging by the research im currently doing.

Copper it is. I went back down the road it caught fire on and theres about a 100ft trail of oil. Went all the way down the street and I couldnt even find a piece of the collector gasket.

Edit- Well its between the copper gaskets and the remflex graphite gaskets. Havent heard about the remflex blowing out or leaking at all. The copper ones ive come across a couple people saying they leak cause they arent thick enough.

Remflex 8001 for anyone who is interested. Whatever I decide to use, if it fails im welding ball and socket flanges on and be done with it.

willexoIX

Update

I ordered both the remflex graphite and the mr gasket copper collector gaskets. I will update once they come in.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

cool. the anticipation killing you isnt it? I know I have been there....

willexoIX

Yes it is, especially after having driven it once. Right now im going over all my routing for the boost controller cause it was turned completely down and still pushed 15psi with a 6 psi spring.

Also getting ready to pull the xover pipe so I can get to the oil line, cut it back from where it split, and put heat sleeve on it where its by the collector. If that hadnt blown the gasket the oil line woulda been fine.

Ive also determined that it was the speedometer cable that caught fire and not the oil. It went out way to quick to be an oil vapor fire.

Also the oil drain at the base of the turbo was leaking, but it didnt have a clamp on it so im hoping it wasnt backing up from the oil pan bung. Only way to tell would be to see if theres oil in the housings correct? The bung is about 1/2 inch to an inch higher than yours was Mark.

Also the passenger side valve cover was leaking pretty good from the side the plugs are on, but nowhere else. Thats the valve cover with the breather filter on it so it shouldnt be leaking boost into the valve covers correct? The 2 outside nuts were kinda loose so I tightened them down a bit more.

project89

iTrader: (1)

welcome to the joys of having a turbo car

take some pics of ur boost controller and the tube routing for it , if its an ebay controller i already know whats wrong with it

what are u using for oil lines?

willexoIX

Parker 7092 series 1/2 inch 300psi high temp for the return. Generic blue 200psi 1/4 inch for the feed. The feed was slightly pliable when warm but definately not about to melt till the collector gasket blew out right next to it. It has about 4-5 inches of clearance from the pipe.

Yes its an ebay boost controller, I googled instructions for it cause it didnt come with any, Im pretty sure its hooked up right but I could be wrong. It had a loose hose.

Yea, im used to owning a used car so this really is no different, just like im starting at the beginning of owning it again, lol.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

You have one of those manual boost controlers? Cant you wire in a electronic silenoid on to MS? I love my electronic one.

How do you have the hoses attatched to the turbo? Twist lock barbed fittings?? If not figure out a way to incorperate them as they have never let me down.

https://www.google.com/search?q=10an...49%3B300%3B300

I have a 1/2npt to 10an adapter, and a 10 an twist lock barb on the return
Then a 1/8npt to 4an adapter, and a 4 an twist lock barb on the supply

I have clamps on the barbs too but really they are just insurance because i have to cut the hose off to get it to come apart..lol

willexoIX

Got some pics.
First 3- boost controller routing
4 and 5- oil return
6- collector blown out
7- oil line melted
8- where the exhaust currently terminates

project89

iTrader: (1)

the problem witht he ebay controllers is they do not have a bleed for the line that goes to the top wg port , so once they build up some pressure it keeps applying that pressure to the top of the wg making boost spike very high

the fix is to drill a bleed hole in a specific spot one the controller

project89

iTrader: (1)

now that i see pictures ur boost controller is the one that needs the bleed hole drilled , and i belive u also have it plumbed wrong

is ur wastegate a one or 2 port wastegate

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I see. Looks like you leaking at the adapter plate for the return oil line

willexoIX

Its a single port. I moved the larger hose fitting to the block on part of the controller so I didnt have to change hose size in the middle. Is that part backwards? Arrow supposed to go the other way?

willexoIX

It may or may not have been from when the top feed leaked down over the cartridge, but i would think that woulda burned off once it heated up. If it is leaking from the adaptor plate does that mean its backing up the drain or just too loose?

project89

iTrader: (1)

just take the boost controller off that controller is made for a 2 port wg
i can tell u how to modify it for what u have but the reality is the thing is junk

save ur money and buy one of these so u dont blow ur motor up due to a boost spike

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-XS-Manual-Boost-Controller-MBC-Universal-Fit-/231237855379?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d6d9a893&vxp=mtr
thats the standard version , i use the hp version on my cars

project89

iTrader: (1)

this si the hp model
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TurboXS-High-Performance-Manual-Boost-Controller-TurboXS-p-n-BC-HPBC-/230949093466?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c5a3805a&vxp=mtr
im using the older style hp model were the adjuster needs an allen key to be turned

and this is the one im using on the iroc , probably way over kill for u at this point
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TURBO-XS-QUAD-STAGE-BOOST-CONTROLLER-PART-BC-QSBC-/150756319082?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2319c6df6a&vxp=mtr
lol i have the 4 stage setup as
stage 1 = launch
stage 2 2nd gear
stage 3 high gear
stage 4 hold on mf'er

willexoIX

Temporarily ill take it out. I have an article saved for how to mod the wastegate if I want higher boost. Theres a nut inside that controls the strength of the spring. And its real easy to do, its also for this exact turbo.

Down the road when I go to a bigger turbo ill invest in the electric controller.

Also, not a single hose or anything popped off under 15psi of boost, so thats a relief.

willexoIX

Holy crap look at that price! Lol. Yea wayyyyyyyy overkill haha

project89

iTrader: (1)

dont waste ue money on electronic controllers

that 100$ turbo xs controler works great , u can pick them up used for 20-50 bucks for the hp model

i paid 184$ for my 4 stage controller brand new i have my megasquirt controlling it based on gear position

also since u use megasquiirt u can buy the boost control mod kit for a few bucks , and the boost control soiliniod for 50 bucks and use the ms to control boost same setup that fast eddi uses

i like the manual controler setup on the ms as its a set and forget setup and i dont need to bust out the laptop to make changes, and i can also overide the ms settings with a toggle switch to run any stage i want at any time

willexoIX

Yea i meant the boost control solenoid wired to the ms.

Oil line is fixed and heat shielded now. Xover pipe is off, boost controller removed.

Looks like the other collector gasket was about to blow out too.

willexoIX

Well while I'm waiting for those collector gaskets I'm working on buttoning things up.

First on the agenda is finishing up the exhaust.
Second will be the hole in the hood for the IC; I highly doubt ill have intake temp problems running 6-10 psi. Being a short pull on 15psi went up to 122° intake temps. Yes its a small intercooler, but its a DD setup, not an all out setup.

Dave I dont think the size of injector will become a problem cause im not planning on that much boost. Also dont think ill have any problems pulling 30mpg+ on this setup. It sure will be fun though. I spoiled myself with that 15psi spike, lol.

willexoIX

Crap, once again I forgot the pic, its the beer talking at this point lmao...

willexoIX

POS chinesium parts. The 2 vband clamps I purchased "for turbo exhaust applications" snapped the stud off in the bolt when I tried to pull the vband to finish the rest of my exhaust. Anyone recommend REAL exhaust vband clamps? Just need the clamps, actual bands are already welded to the exhaust.

Cant move forward on the exhaust till I get some and now I need to wait for a full refund...

willexoIX

Scratch that. Ill just re-engineer it myself.

project89

iTrader: (1)

yeah the studs on the ebay stuff are really soft they snap easily , generally u only need to snug them down though

willexoIX

Yea, that they do. I beefed it up some. Now that im welding im running out of stuff to weld! Lmao.

I got some stainless gaskets for the vbands, they are slightly bigger than the 2.5 inch so I gotta crank them down to seal.

Im taking a break cause we have some hellacious rain and lightning headed this way. Welcome to the rainy season in florida. Im just hoping Thursday turns out to be halfway decent cause we are taking the new 20ft pontoon on the lake for the first time

willexoIX

85% done with the exhaust now. Just gotta finish the tip thatll go alongside the driveshaft. It tucks up under pretty nicely and actually is about level with the frame rails in that area.

Ill get back to it tomorrow then I can start working on the hood while I wait for those gaskets.

Xter

Looks good. Glad to see your car is almost done. What muffler are you running?

willexoIX

Thanks

Im running the same 2.5 inch in/out Thrush Welded I was running before I went turbo. Funny thing is I was always asked what v8 I had, lol.

Xter

Lol, I get that too sometimes with my Blazer with the 3" exhaust and Flowmaster 44. Don't ever go Flowmaster though, the brand name is an oxymoron.

Have you done anything else to your exhaust?

willexoIX

Originally i cut the whole exhaust off to before the catcon, then reused the ball and socket flange and welded it to the muffler. Then the muffler was where the cat used to be, with only about a foot of pipe after.

The way Im doing it now itll be just enough to be legal, with the exit behind the back of the side windows. The muffler will still be where the cat was, and the exit will be alongside the driveshaft in the middle.

Oh and I also welded a nut to the backside of the muffler to reuse the catcon hanger. I will also add another hanger, just not sure where im gonna put it until its all mounted up.

All I hear about blowmaster is they sound like crap on the v6s

Xter

Sounds good.

And nah they don't if you choose the right one. But they are on major restriction. When I did my exhaust I chopped off everything from the end of the headers back and did the bends I had to do. Welded my 3 inch cat on and got that hooked up and a straight pipe out about 18" where my muffler is and stopped for the night. Drove it home (was using my work's saw to cut angles to form bends) and opened it up and it got up past 4500 rpm till the engine ran out of steam. Finished it all up the next day with my Flowmaster on and it runs out of steam around 3900-4000 rpm now. Wasn't very impressed with that.

willexoIX

I mainly went with the thrush cause it was the cheapest at the auto parts store. But i thought it sounded the best and I really didnt notice any restriction with or without it. That could also be because the stock pipe was 2 1/4 whereas the muffler was 2 1/2.

Im happy with it and when it finally rusts out ill replace it with the same muffler. I ran the car for the first ride with the turbo with just open downpipe, it was loud, but not as loud as it was NA with the muffler. Im betting itll sound just fine with the muffler on now.

I also did a vband so I can run it just open dp if I want. I was surprised at how good the exhaust is coming along being I have really only been welding for about 2 weeks.

willexoIX

Alright fellas, this is the extent of my exhaust. I couldnt be happier with how it sits under the car. Once it cools and I bolt it up ill post another pic.

Next up is the hood...

willexoIX

Bolted up on the car, reusing the catcon hanger.

3rd pic is dead level sideskirt to sideskirt. Cant even see the exhaust

willexoIX

Soooooooooo....

Any ideas on what to do about the xover touching this spot where the tip of the screwdriver is(control arm mount)? Preferably without modifying the xover pipe?

With thinner gaskets itll be pressing here even more, and I have a feeling this may have been why I had leaks at the collectors.

I have also decided to make a small heat shield that bolts to the drivers side collector to prevent the oil line from getting burned should I have another blowout.

willexoIX

Anyone? Is that A spot that I can cut the corner off and weld a thick piece of steel in place without disturbing the control arm?

Suggestions? I know the most common would probably be to modify the xover in that spot. I just need to know if its a good idea or not to modify that small area on the control arm mount from someone more experienced than I.

Edit- I may wind up having to modify the xover anyway. One of the flanges is only half connected and you can see light through the weld. And its on the side where it comes in contact with the control arm mount.

project89

iTrader: (1)

dent the tube , or get a bfh and try to bend in the area on the control arm mount
or both if needed

willexoIX

These are pics of the collector flange on that side. I bet as soon as I started tightening it down the first time it just pulled away from the weld cause it was pushing on the control arm mount.

I might just break the weld all the way off the flanges on both sides, bolt them up and redo the connections myself. The damn cold welds that were on there just keep snapping left and right anytime I tighten it down. Watch the welds on the drivers side manifold will be the next to break...

I should be able to reuse the wrap no? Just clip the stainless ties, re-roll the wrap, do what I need to do then re wrap it right?

Cause im gonna grind those welds down and make the xover fit properly.

willexoIX

Teaser pic. Its only the first cut so dont rag on it too bad. Theres still alot of work to be done on the hole. Plus its about to pour, again...

Taking a break for now

willexoIX

Of course, forgot the pic...

project89

iTrader: (1)

yes u can reuse the wrap

willexoIX

Got these in today, still waiting on the copper ones though. Good to 3000° and warranted from Remflex for 6 months.

willexoIX

Some progress, still not finished with it yet. As you may recall I said I was no longer doing a scoop, just a vent for the IC. After taking it out on that first drive with the IC fan running the whole time, the wires to and from the relay and fan were still cool and not even warm. So ill be running the fan all the time except when its raining.

The top of the opening will have expanded metal flush with the hood. Another reason for not doing a scoop? Two words. Love Bugs. Those who live/lived in Florida know exactly what Im talking about. Their blood is acid, you could imagine what it does to paint and other things.

The weather stripping Im using seals perfectly, now to finish it up.
Its not done yet but its getting there

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Definitely a unique set up. I like it. Cant wait to see how it does.

willexoIX

It did pretty well with the hood off until boost spiked up to 15psi. Around 10psi it didnt heat up too bad so thats probably about as high as Ill let it go for daily driving. Plus with the hood on I would imagine it would be a little better off. Ill be the first to know, lol.

willexoIX

Getting there

Still waiting on those other collector gaskets