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*Not trying to threadjack, but this seems like a good place to discuss this, especially since fasteddi has been using this*
So if I understand how this is set-up, it is always active, or at least it's always possible to use regardless of any manual inputs or switches, correct?
Restore, would be an RPM below which the 2-step is disabled?
Cut would be the RPM at which you want the engine to rev to, but not exceed?
Minimum TPS would be the minimum TPS required to actually go into the 2-step mode, this one seems pretty obvious.
And Maximum MPH would be any speed above which the 2-step is disabled, correct?
So if I set Restore to 1500 RPM, Cut to 2000 RPM, min TPS to 50%, and max MPH to 3 MPH, then I would be able to drive around normally, without getting into 2-step, but once 50% TPS is surpassed and MPH is below 3 MPH, then the RPM would cut at 2000 RPM, and re-enable spark at 1500 RPM, essentially giving a 500 RPM span? Obviously I'd likely set the cut and restore points closer, but just trying to get a feel for how this is supposed to work.
Last edited by Six_Shooter; 07-30-2015 at 02:31 AM.
*Not trying to threadjack, but this seems like a good place to discuss this, especially since fasteddi has been using this*
So if I understand how this is set-up, it is always active, or at least it's always possible to use regardless of any manual inputs or switches, correct?
Restore, would be an RPM below which the 2-step is disabled?
Cut would be the RPM at which you want the engine to rev to, but not exceed?
Minimum TPS would be the minimum TPS required to actually go into the 2-step mode, this one seems pretty obvious.
And Maximum MPH would be any speed above which the 2-step is disabled, correct?
So if I set Restore to 1500 RPM, Cut to 2000 RPM, min TPS to 50%, and max MPH to 3 MPH, then I would be able to drive around normally, without getting into 2-step, but once 50% TPS is surpassed and MPH is below 3 MPH, then the RPM would cut at 200 RPM, and re-enable spark at 1500 RPM, essentially giving a 500 RPM span? Obviously I'd likely set the cut and restore points closer, but just trying to get a feel for how this is supposed to work.
that s ounds about right for it but u would more then likley have to be on the brakes as well to keep the car from exceding the 3mph before u made it over 50% tps
upper limit needs to be set to were u can go wot and the car wont push threw the brakes
i also wouldnt advise using antilag/launch control below 2,500 rpms
cyl presure that high at that low of an rpm could lead to backfiring and or more servere engine damage, and puts alot of stress on the bottom end , not to mention the bog issue ive encountered trying antilag/launch controls at low rpms
car ur going to try it on is a 5 speed isnt it? if so that would change the low rpm limit a lil bit because of the different loading of the engine versus an automatics tq converter
code is setup to sense brake pedal application(byte 1F, bit $10, it's one of the FMD inputs, I just don't remember which one off-hand) though I imagine it could be used with a clutch switch as well. I seem to remember a toggle switch inline with that switch being able to disable 2-step operation as well? I don't remember if I converted the normal rev limit threshold to spark-cut or not.
you have the 4 values descriptions correct. your scenario also seems correct with the addition of the clutch/brake/defeat switch.
caffeine had it working pretty nicely with nAst1(though that has 3-step operation for WOT shifting), he may have some thoughts on the settings.
I'm going through my wiring diagrams here for the '7749, and I'm not seeing any direct input for brake. I see it as part of the TCC wiring, but there's no direct connection to the ECM itself.
The above "settings" were just example numbers, not values I would likely use anyway.
--==EDIT==--
I have found that some '7730 V6 applications look to use a brake input at C4. I would assume that this is the input the code is checking.
I will have to look at some internal schematics of the '7749, but AFAIK this should be the same between the '7749 and '7730.
Last edited by Six_Shooter; 07-30-2015 at 02:30 AM.
I'm going through my wiring diagrams here for the '7749, and I'm not seeing any direct input for brake. I see it as part of the TCC wiring, but there's no direct connection to the ECM itself.
The above "settings" were just example numbers, not values I would likely use anyway.
--==EDIT==--
I have found that some '7730 V6 applications look to use a brake input at C4. I would assume that this is the input the code is checking.
I will have to look at some internal schematics of the '7749, but AFAIK this should be the same between the '7749 and '7730.
Now I can't remember the pin I used but I'm using the brake peddle switch and a main arm switch in series to enable disable the 2 step. So no matter the tps or mph set point, when I let off the brake peddle the ignition returns to its normal process.
Yes dave below that 2400 or so rpm it's not good. I always had a issue even at 2500 2600 with engine bog. This engine bog issue is why I really didn't mess with the 2 set too much because I had to test at the track with slicks on and didn't have the chance to make 10 runs to dial it in. I could easily make 3 4 5 psi of boost but when I let off it would go back to 0 and bog off the line. I've never tried it with the higher stall converter though so this is something I'd like to try again.
I'd like to use this in 2 weeks but I have to figure out a way to wire the n20 possibly to be an aid off the line. But as right now I'm using a main arm, wot switch, and Hobbs switch. Obviously if I was on the 2 step wot at the line I would not want the n20 activated until I actually let off the 2 step and was in normal ignition operations.
Saar, I'm almost positive the xdf you gave me last year has the normal rpm limiter using ignition cut instead of fuel cut.
Fasteddi, if you could verify the pin (likely C4), that would be great.
In your description of the bog I wonder if adding a delay to disabling, or a gradual return to regular running would help eliminate the bog and allow the boost to be maintained.
Six. I will confirm that pin when I get home from work in a few hrs.
Saar. I'm not positive it's the patch on your part or my tune. But if someone else running the patch can try it out and see what it does that would help.
EDIT I looked at pms from last year though myself and saar. Seems it's on the D10 pin. I'll have to verify that but that is probly where it's at.
D10 would be U13 IN04, which lines up with the $10 bit, so that would make sense. it was also labeled as "BRAKE" in the Ludis diagrams, which is probably why it was chosen.
now that I think about it some more, I think I had a custom ADX in there as well to monitor the brake switch?
D10 would be U13 IN04, which lines up with the $10 bit, so that would make sense. it was also labeled as "BRAKE" in the Ludis diagrams, which is probably why it was chosen.
now that I think about it some more, I think I had a custom ADX in there as well to monitor the brake switch?
Interesting, I just looked at the Ludis diagrams and see what you're talking about. I have at least four other diagrams for ECM pin outs that show C4 as the brake input. I have not found one diagram with D10 mentioned for any function.
Are C4 and D10 possibly tied together internally?
Hmmm....
It would be great if you could verify that for sure fasteddi.
Once my car is back together I will test this, but will be on a manual, so I wonder how that will change the functionality of this.
Ludis diagram indicates C4 as "fan request". not to say it couldn't be used as a brake input(it has a pulldown resistor and for whatever reason, RV2 also used as a pulldown), it's read on U10 IN1, which should make it bit $2, which is why without digging further in, I don't think that is the one I setup for this code.
Once my car is back together I will test this, but will be on a manual, so I wonder how that will change the functionality of this.
with a manual car use the clutch switch for activation
as far as best results when using it to luanch u will have to play wwith the rpm.
ideally u will get the best results when u find an rpm that when u drop the clutch will result in 1-2 revolutions of the tire i.e spin.
this will get the car out of the hole the fastest without bogging the motor
if u go for a stright clutch dump/drag race start u wont need much rpm , if ur going to let the clutch slip when launching use a higher rpm to build boost and keep it while u slip the clutch.
depending on ur suspension , tires and track or street surface u will have to experiment for best results
i would start at around 2k rpms with the clutch dump
Nice. No v8 just yet. I'd like to eventually get this 3.1l into the 10s... one day. Then I figure if I can make a 10 sec v6 I should have no problem making a 10 sec v8..lol
Soon as I win the lotto Ill build that half mile drag strip for ya 1/4mi is for soccor players.
I dont think i could go full throttle for much more then another 1/8 mile and it will be screaming the rpms. I need a smaller rear for a 1/2 mile...lol
Look at the little 191 cubic inch beast wrinkling 28 inch tall slicks with 14.5psi in the tires.
I hit the track the other day again. Also drove the car a good 200 miles. Its a reliable race car..lol.
Pics. It ran a 11.92 11.94 in the 90* heat mid day. Then a 11.76 on the brakes hard when it was 65*s out in the early morning. Picked up alot more then i thought it would...Comparing 1000ft times prior it was a 11.69 pass.
Im getting married in about 4 weeks so in 2 weeks me and about 10 of my bracket racing friends are heading to national trails in columbus to race for 3 days. Yea you can see that my idea of a bachlor party is being at a race track for 72 hours and tearing it up.
Heres some pics of me racing 9 and 10 second cars.. and then one of a friends daytona gtp that runs 11s right with me.
Here is a few slips. One is the trap speed of 120mph. bad 60 foot....and laugh but i let off at like the 1200 foot area. It was pitch black at the end of the track at about 9:45 at night. I never raced at the trails before but it freaked me out having no lights down there and a short shut down and a huge wall of hay bails at the normal, sand area. It may have had a killer et that night.
The other slip is the next morning. The n20 was purged just right there. 1.75 60 foot got me a 11.59. Still just using the 50 shot off the line. I didnt wana get ran out for going under 11.50.
Rough vid quality but heres a .013 red light in elims. I let off at the 660. The rear dif is starting to get worst slipping out of posi here and there. Which is freaking innoying.
Another vid. 11.88 on a 11.81 dial in. It was so hot that day. Literally almost 90 degrees and very high humidity. Car doesn't like that. Slows down tons when it gets that hot.
Well after i raced the last few weeks i noticed my posi starting to slip out in the burn out box. I jack the car up last night..... and yup shes a open diff now, the clutches are def warn out bad. Oh well. Dang junk alburn pro lsd.
get an open diff and weld it, weld it with the diff in the car and the axles in place so the spider gears dont pull as u weld them otherwise it may be hard to get the axles in and out after
get an open diff and weld it, weld it with the diff in the car and the axles in place so the spider gears dont pull as u weld them otherwise it may be hard to get the axles in and out after
I use to do that back in the day with demo derby cars...lol
I use to do that back in the day with demo derby cars...lol
thats what my v6 car has , never saw the point in spending the money on junk auburns or even the eatons as the rear will prolly blow up anyways
weld it good and it holds up just fine i street drove my v6 car for 3 years welded up , once every 2 ish years id slip another set of stock axles in it cause they would start to twist up
thats what my v6 car has , never saw the point in spending the money on junk auburns or even the eatons as the rear will prolly blow up anyways
weld it good and it holds up just fine i street drove my v6 car for 3 years welded up , once every 2 ish years id slip another set of stock axles in it cause they would start to twist up
I use to do that back in the day with demo derby cars...lol
to add a touch of tech to it with your welding knowedge today.
would you just clean the metal of oil well and weld the parts as is, or scuff the surface rough or cut slots notchs..... [ not really to do such a thing ,but say you have parts of similar metal and surface condition. ]
to add a touch of tech to it with your welding knowedge today.
would you just clean the metal of oil well and weld the parts as is, or scuff the surface rough or cut slots notchs..... [ not really to do such a thing ,but say you have parts of similar metal and surface condition. ]
clean it out really well to get the oil out and just weld it , the gears have the perfect gaps and surfaces for welding and getting a very good weld
Well im not a big fan of welding the diff or doing the spool thing on a street car. I like the 28 spline mosers that are on it..lol although those things would be pretty tough to twist compared to stock.
I have a friend that has a power track no slip? I think its the locker that is suppose to be more like a lsd not clicking and banging so much. I think he said about 200 bucks and its mine. But right now im just going to continue to use the current dif for now as i probly will only race one more time this year. I like the idea of the 200 dollar locker as i can not afford the 12bolt or 9 inch i want for at least another year of saving. The 8.8 swap is also tempting but requires alot of fabbing for the tq arm mount and then replacing the guts will stuff i want...lsd...gears...exc.
I know im on borrowed time on the 10 bolt but launching 1.70s at best on a built up 10 bolt is no issue in my mind. That alburn pro was exactly 6 years old so i guess it did last awhile. I ran at least 200-250 passes on that puppy my self over the last 3 1/2 years.
Heres what a V6 drag car looks like. Its a tad dirty but i picked these rims for cheep. I plan to toss on 26 inch street radial runners up front and Mts 275/60/15s out back by the spring time hopefully. Alot better looking then the 14 inch cragers ive had on the car since 2002 when I bought the car...lmao
On a bad note, I noticed the last few times I started my car it would make a little knocking when I was trying to start it and that not would go away as soon as it started up. First I thought it was the exhaust or the headers hitting the frame, but now I know it's definitely coming from the bottom end of the motor or the flex plate. It does not knock if you rev it up or drive it. The only time it makes this noise is when it is first turning over before it is actually running I heard it only once or twice when it was idling cold. My oil pressure is fine so next time I get a chance I'll have to make sure the flex plate is OK, if not I'm guessing my clearances are getting pretty far open in the bearings and it knocks until oil pressure was built up.
Mark, remove the turbo and start the engine. If the noise goes away, it is more than likely your flexplate because backpressure will enhance it, and if it is your flexplate, it will start chirping soon like a very pissed off bird along with the infamous chatter as it gets worse. That was me on FB by the way...
Well im not a big fan of welding the diff or doing the spool thing on a street car. I like the 28 spline mosers that are on it..lol although those things would be pretty tough to twist compared to stock.
if u get the right rear out of an exploder it will have a good posi unit in it that u wont break , i wanna say its a true track but i dont rember which one is the good one.
if shippping wont cost to much id be willing to convert that 8.8 for ya , im about to do one for myself
Well im officially maried. Got married over the weekend. But back to the car stuff... I just have a hunch that the flex plate is fine and this is a internal problem. This is a vid i took the other day when i noticed the problem. Like i said in earlier post I noticed it doing this before when starting it up when cold.... but I thought it was the exhaust banging the frame, but it is not that.
Once you start up the thing and get it warm after 3 or 4 minuets it wont knock on start up. This is bugging me and i would hate to race it in a few weeks not knowing the problem.
Obvousily you can clearly hear the knock but once it fires up it goes away and doesnt come back......
I have used this method on outboard engines to diagnose rod bearing issues (common, and can't drop the pan to check, you have to split the case). Since it's hard to drop the pan in these cars it may work for you assuming it's an internal engine issue:
Try unhooking the coil wire and turning it over, does it still make the noise?
If the noise goes away with the coil wire removed then hook the coil wire up and remove the #1 plug wire from the plug and crank it over. If it goes away then you know the #1 cylinder is your culprit. If the noise is still there, hook #2 back up and move to #2, continue until the noise changes or goes away. If a one or a few cylinders effect the noise you will have at least narrowed it down as an engine issue and you can start tearing it down to figure it out.
When this ^ test works, it is generally a bad rod bearing in my experience.
If the noise DOES not away with the coil wire removed (no spark/combustion) then this test may not be that beneficial but it's something you can try. Leave the coil wire disconnected and remove all of the spark plugs, if the noise changes or goes away then start putting in one plug in at a time and cranking it. The noise will come back when you put the plug in your culprit cylinder
If it still makes the noise with the coil wire disconnected and the spark plugs out, I would look at the transmission and top end real close before I tore the engine down, do some compression and leak down checks, ect.
it sounds like the flexplate and when its warming up its allowing the metal to expand on the bolts and flexplate to make the noise minimize to where you cant hear it.
congratulations on getting married
Last edited by 85bluefirebird; 09-15-2015 at 04:50 PM.
thats not a rod , it wouldnt go away , that sounds like the damn crankshaft is broken
check the flex plate and pull the valve covers but i highly doubt it , also take the belt off the front of the engine and grab the balance and see if u can flop the crankshaft around
thats not a rod , it wouldnt go away , that sounds like the damn crankshaft is broken
Funny you say that, ive seen pic of engine that still ran with the crank broken in half.
Also congrats, but also funny how ya kinda glaze over that n just get to the car topic hehehe ya say ya got married like ya say, oh i went to the bank today, but listen to this
thats not a rod , it wouldnt go away , that sounds like the damn crankshaft is broken
check the flex plate and pull the valve covers but i highly doubt it , also take the belt off the front of the engine and grab the balance and see if u can flop the crankshaft around
Thanks for all the congratulations. I definitely found the perfect girl she helps me with my car goes racing every weekend. We definitly have had alot of fun for the last 3 years we've been dating. Life's very good.
Here how we did it waiting before the wedding when Im not allowed to see my bride... hitting the practice tree..lol
I haven't had time to look at the car am going to try to work on it saturday and Sunday check the flex plate and take the belt off check the crank. I really hope the crank isn't broken it's hard for me to believe it is since I raced last time with it making that noise prior to me racing. But you never know hopefully I'll find out soon and I'll let you guys know what's wrong with it.
I haven't had time to look at the car am going to try to work on it saturday and Sunday check the flex plate and take the belt off check the crank. I really hope the crank isn't broken it's hard for me to believe it is since I raced last time with it making that noise prior to me racing. But you never know hopefully I'll find out soon and I'll let you guys know what's wrong with it.
Well the crank can break in the right spot, where once running it stay in near perferct time and ins't really noticable.
kinda sound like a early Vtwin Virago, brand new they sounded like they had rocks in the gear box on start up. [ but still out sold HDs as the Virago did start ]
If it doesn't make that noise after being started, then check your flexplate to torque converter bolts to see if they came loose, then check your starter to flywheel's alignment as well as the flywheel itself for any missing teeth. However, if your making the same noise when blipping the throttle, then you more than likely cracked your flexplate in the center like I did. Told you earlier to pull the turbo to see if the lightened back pressure effected the noise level any if it made the same noise when running, as that will point to it even more so. I have a video of when I annihilated my flexplate if you want to compare...
07-30-2015, 12:28 AM
