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Damm dave im glad your still arround... I had a rocket back in the day. Only had one and it was a R1 yamaha. That thing was quick and i got lucky more then once. Im sticking to 4 wheels..lol
Heres a few pics. The exahust came out ok. I still dont like the ground clearence but i kept with the stock route and im sure if im going 75 and hit a slight bump itll scrap somewhere. I have the sloppiest front struts known to man. But they work perfect at the racetrack....
I also finally am ditching the elcheepo turbo blanket for a new one. Cost a crap load more but its gotta last longer then the 40 dollar ebay special.
I was welding some more at work too. Heres some 3 inch 316 SS tubeing. Not bad hu? I was rolling them all out, walking the cup. I need to do my exhaust like this one day.
Damm dave im glad your still arround... I had a rocket back in the day. Only had one and it was a R1 yamaha. That thing was quick and i got lucky more then once. Im sticking to 4 wheels..lol
Heres a few pics. The exahust came out ok. I still dont like the ground clearence but i kept with the stock route and im sure if im going 75 and hit a slight bump itll scrap somewhere. I have the sloppiest front struts known to man. But they work perfect at the racetrack....
I also finally am ditching the elcheepo turbo blanket for a new one. Cost a crap load more but its gotta last longer then the 40 dollar ebay special.
I was welding some more at work too. Heres some 3 inch 316 SS tubeing. Not bad hu? I was rolling them all out, walking the cup. I need to do my exhaust like this one day.
Yup. After a few 120mph back road runs and lots of daily driving has mine looking very similar, lol
Well dammit. 60 degree and sunny so i firgured now would be the time to wash the car. Wrong. The map sensor seems to be bad. Its 3 years old...lol
Its rich man, i knew it had a problem as soon as it started to studder when trying to start it. So i datalog it and see the KPA is almost solid at 99kpa give or take a few. Doesn't move while trying to start it at all. So I figured Id suck on the map sensor vac line and also blow though it figuring it would read something different.....nope. Stays there. I made sure the line was clear and that nothing was in the sensor port also. Damm shame. It ran yesterday just fine...lol
So now i need to get another one asap so i can run it again.
The ground is good. The 5 vts reference it good from the ecm at the sensor. But now that i went out to test it, the middle plug. The map signal... It reads about 1.4vts dc and does move as i blow or create a vaccum.
IIRC the 100kpa voltage on the sensor should be close to that 1.4 or 1.6 for a 3 bar. I may have a broken wire somewhere or something else goofy.
Went back out. Damm thing fired right up. No problems. So i went to move the car and then back to 98 kpa and she died on me. Gotta be the sensor so im going to order another one.
My thinking is if the the wiring was bad the ecm would see a high or low Vts signal. Not a consitant 98-100kpa out of the blue while its running.
I don't know how much time it would take to do some serious damage at say an AFR of 20:1 with a lot of extra advance being added due to a "sensed" lower load while at peak boost, but it has me seriously considering adding in some new code to perform a fuel or spark cut if while in PE, the O2 indicates leaner than x mV(or x AFR for a wideband).
I don't know how much time it would take to do some serious damage at say an AFR of 20:1 with a lot of extra advance being added due to a "sensed" lower load while at peak boost, but it has me seriously considering adding in some new code to perform a fuel or spark cut if while in PE, the O2 indicates leaner than x mV(or x AFR for a wideband).
dont do a fuel cut , fuel cut is a dangerous thing on a boosted engine , as when it first kicks in it spikes super lean as the injectors are shut off , once they are off though its ok , its just that split second when they get shut down mid squirt that causes all the trouble
fast nice job on the stainless , it looks just a touch to hot from what i can see though.
stainless and aluminum are my 2 fav metals to tig weld just love the way it looks when its done
when they get shut down mid squirt that causes all the trouble
I've never had a ECM that would do that. they're all setup to allow a firing cycle to complete as normal and just not deliver fuel the next time it's supposed to. the only fuel that would make it into the cylinders would be whatever fraction of an injection event is stuck to the port walls. very small chance that such a small amount of fuel would even support combustion, it would likely miss and get sent out for the cat to deal with.
Yea i really like welding on ss dave. It was a tad warm. I wanted to make sure I broke it all down so I was probly going too slow. I'm still learning.
hopefully the new map is here monday. It was definitly weird having one flake out like that. I've never had one act like that before. It would be scary if it went to 100 Kpa when under full boost.
Fingers crossed that as soon as I get the new sensor on I can finally take it on a test drive with the new trans in Place.
Saar you bring up a great idea to add in something to protect the motor if in pe mode and the afr leans way out. Might have to look into adding something there.
Finally I got a air filter in there. Its a 4 inch 90 on that thing. Itll work for driving arround. Its a bit of a restriction but if you saw the filter set up i had before youd laugh.
And this just looks better also. Hopefully taking the car out on the road on sunday.
I got the new 3 bar map sensor today also.
I got a good amount of 4 inch tubing. 316 ss. So i may route this puppy outta the engine bay. Right now i just wana drive it!
Well finally took the car out. I love the transmission and shifter. They work great. The TC is definitly looser but cant see the real flash with street tires.
I drove it for a bit and see a major red flag. I swear this map sensor is not correct. I drove it and under boost it was stinking rich. No problem i figure its because of the exhaust. Well as i floor it and get into boost. The boost goes up to 17psi when commanded to run with the spring only, which left me 10-11psi last year.
For some reason i feel that the map sensor may have different voltages then the $59 was programed for. I have to hook a guage up and see if the sensor is correct but believe me it was not 17psi of boost...lol The IAT just make me laugh as they dont move much at all and Not a drop of KR except when I did a burn out.
I have a voltage table that came with the sensor. Any ideas on where in the code i can check the voltages to be sure of the correct correlation?
the 0-50PSIa does seem a bit off.... 32PSI(guage) at 4.25 volts? the chart I have shows that at 4.25 volts, the conversion should be 269kPa(39PSI absolute), which is about 25PSI on the guage.
that's off by 7PSI, which lines up with what you're seeing.
The conversion for the common '861 & '749 3-bar GM MAP sensor is:
Vout = 5.1 * (KPa * 0.00318 - 0.00353)
The 5.1 is the reference voltage. As such the 29 psi @ 4.0 volts output shown in the above table is off. The output voltage should be about 4.8 - 4.9 volts at 29 psi (301 KPa).
Key on engine off. Im seeing 105-110Kpa With the new sensor which is too high. I never saw the old one go that high even on the highest pressure sunny beautiful day.
I have a New 2 bar from when I almost went 8F. I tossed it on and saw 120Kpa with the key on engine off.
I am quite upset at the quality of the sensor. Its hard to find a genuine map sensor sometimes. I may have to just order one from a parts store. 89 ttas had 3 bar maps didnt they?
The car overall runs fine with the new sensor but it would just be stupid for me to retune all the fueling to make this sensor work...
Sixshooter. Is there anything stashed in $59 that allows for 3 bar calibration? I didnt see anything but your the guru at that code. Thanks.
I think you mean 2 BAR provisions. no, $59 will only run on 3 BAR and 1 BAR, though the 1 BAR stuff is left over from $58 and has not been tested AFAIK.
If the picture shows the exact MAP sensor, they are both a GM (or maybe China made Delphi) 12223861 3-bar MAP. The part number is on the sticker on the bottom of the sensor.
I've always been partial to Ballenger Motorsports:
Well i made the purchace off summit racing last night. It was the accel boxed sensor. I called them and they told me they are built to gm specs and so on... So i got it today. Summit is usually one day shipping for me, i live 2 hrs away from them.
Tossed it on. With the key on engine off. 100.2 Kpa and the other problematic sensor had shown 108.5 Kpa right before.
I have yet got to drive it but hope to on Thursday to make sure it works correct but with the numbers on it (just like as advertised), coming from a well known company, and seller, I think i'm in the good now.
I just learned my lesson buying a critical sensor from ebay..
On a lighter side here are some pics of the car on sunday when if got its first bath of the year.
Then of course another welding picture..lol I like this tig welding. If i get better at the heat, i think i will be pretty good in time. I walked that cup arround 3 sides without stopping, im getting a little better. This is before i cleaned it up so i could see how bad my colors were.
Then of course another welding picture..lol I like this tig welding. If i get better at the heat, i think i will be pretty good in time. I walked that cup arround 3 sides without stopping, im getting a little better. This is before i cleaned it up so i could see how bad my colors were.
needs more filler wire i see a bunch of undercut , on a weld like that there really is no reason to walk the cup , go stright across the joint without walking , if u need the weld puddle a lil bigger and cant use more heat lift the torch a lil bit more off the material
ur getting there though ull be putting down some really nice looking welds in no time
Well i went out and tuned the car a bit. GOt a solid 11.2-11.5 on 11psi with the exhaust and filter on the car. I will say it seems faster then last year but who knows.
I may go race this puppy on saturday. Low boost. Just the gate only which is around 11psi. But ill uncork the exhaust and toss the bell mouth on the turbo.
Ive been shifting the car at 6300 rpm on the dot to see what kind of speed i get outta the gears only 2 and 3 on a datalog though. Starting out in 1st on those small street tires, just makes for a good burn out.
I dont like to bury the car else then on the drag strip but i had to see what kind of speed it had. Started out at about 44mph and floored it. 2nd gear at about 3500 which is about the stall on the TC. Didnt relize i was going as fast as i would(im too old to go that fast on a highway) But got to 120Mph from that 44mph in about 10 seconds flat. I was turning 6275 Rpms. Which is what I would like my car to trap at if im lucky.
I can definitely see on a log that the car looses steam up around 6100 rpm. The boost would creep up, and it would go rich up there. That cam has alot to do with that as well im sure. Still a 260 cam in there.
The shift from 2nd to 3rd was at about 78Mph and it was from 6300 on the shift, then droped to about 5300rpm. This is a loose converter but it does pull hard. I may try shifting at a lower rpm arround 5900 or so as it like to fall off a bit after that.
Did a quick TC slip calculation and was between 6% and 10% depending on my tires.
IIRC i bought the speedo gears for 26 inch tall tires. Mine are not that tall. 24.75 to be exact. So the calculation may be off. Regardless the car seems to pull nicely and hopefully its still a 11 second car and the trans didnt slow it down too much. I can definitly tell the difference in the RPM drop between 1st and 2nd. I like it. Much less rpm drop.
Raced the car. Terrible day. Never made a full pass. Best was a 12.68@94mph. Obviously I let Off. Car had 12 flat in it all day. I just was running 11 psi and short shifting at 5500.
The turbo oil seals are shot. Definitly. The car backfires and hesitates under boost Sometimes. Then smokes.. the intake directly off the turbo is nice and oily.....
Now should I rebuild this thing? The bank is tight on gettino a new quality one.
Also one injector is damm loud. I can pin point it easily with a long handled screw driver.
Good thing of the day. I drove it on a 150 mile round trip with no problems. Transmission did well and the full exhaust was very nice.
Raced the car. Terrible day. Never made a full pass. Best was a 12.68@94mph. Obviously I let Off. Car had 12 flat in it all day. I just was running 11 psi and short shifting at 5500.
The turbo oil seals are shot. Definitly. The car backfires and hesitates under boost Sometimes. Then smokes.. the intake directly off the turbo is nice and oily.....
Now should I rebuild this thing? The bank is tight on gettino a new quality one.
Also one injector is damm loud. I can pin point it easily with a long handled screw driver.
Good thing of the day. I drove it on a 150 mile round trip with no problems. Transmission did well and the full exhaust was very nice.
Well that sucks about the turbo, I think I might start looking for another turbo as this one has developed turbo whine, and no not the sound of the turbo spooling.
Glad to hear the trans is doing well, Finally got mine back in today and I am thoroughly impressed. No shift delay whatsoever and it doesn't slip at all. 1st is a little lazy out of the hole and I am running the same converter you hit the 11.5 with. Hits a little softer than the other converter that was in it, but very enjoyable.
It pulls like a **** at only 7psi now. Can't wait to put the other intercooler in there.
Ok just for fun and some other options for me. Borg warner is usually on the lower end cost wise. For my application dones anyone have some insite on a bw. That would match my set up well?
The Borg-Warner/Bullseye S259 is virtually identical to the 3582, but it's not that cheap. Also, the turbine might be a tad small unless you go to a 6-bolt flange. http://www.extremepsi.com/store/prod...2&cat=0&page=2
Thanks for the links fallen. I am really looking into a BG.
I took mine apart. Doesnt look good. Im new at inspecting turbos but the turbine does not look good. The up down play isnt horrid but Im not sure if something got up in there at one point or the bearings were so outta wack that the wheel hit the housing. Or if even too many times of playing with the anti lag heated the cheep thing up.
I took all the plugs out and no issue with them. Tan and normal. The car was smoking a little exspecially after i built boost and came to a stop. But it would go away shortly after which made me think it was the turbo. I also forgot to take a pic, but there was a good amount of oil in the turbo compressor outlet. Enough to wipe with your finger but not dripping. And it was somewhat fresh.
Heres some pics. Thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Damm depressing but its something i def need to fix.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Cartridge-CHRA-for-GT35-GT3582-70A-R-Quick-Spooling-10-6-6-Blades-/321640615922?hash=item4ae3464ff2&vxp=mtr
the cheap fix ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Good to see this still kicking, despite your recent problems. Haven't had my car out in over a year. Yea I'd say something went through it but it was a good run for a Chinese turbo. Park it and save up for a quality piece, if you can.
Borgworner good quality? Because I'm 99 percent sure I'll be making the hit to get one of those within the next week or so. I just need to decide on the sizing.
bw is awsome , i have a billet bw 88 comming for the iroc
im not sure whats out there for the smaller stuff from bw bt aim for the 61-66mm compressor , with a small t4 ex if possible dont get a t3 turbine u will regret it
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Borg-Warner-Airwerks-S363-S300SX-Turbo-63-68-88-/151634004975?hash=item234e174bef&vxp=mtr
^^ thats the turbo i would use 63mm compressor 68mm turbine .88 ar turbine good for 300-750hp
That is one I was looking at. S300sx-63. Seems to be a good fit and slightly larger then the gt3582r.
I want a larger one especially on the hot side. T4. But don't want over kill. Hopefully I can size this thing ok and make the right purchace.
Or the s300sx-60. 60 mm inducer but still t4 and the ar in the turbine is a tad higher(.91). The godspeed i had was .83 on the hot side .70 on the cold. Should I keep it lower as the t4 design should help my back pressure problems?
That is one I was looking at. S300sx-63. Seems to be a good fit and slightly larger then the gt3582r.
I want a larger one especially on the hot side. T4. But don't want over kill. Hopefully I can size this thing ok and make the right purchace.
Or the s300sx-60. 60 mm inducer but still t4 and the ar in the turbine is a tad higher(.91). The godspeed i had was .83 on the hot side .70 on the cold. Should I keep it lower as the t4 design should help my back pressure problems?
i think the s300-63 will be damn near perfect , the one i linked u to has the .88 turbine ,
the .91 turbine unit has a much larger turbine wheel and u would prolly have to use the antilag on the line to get good launches and 60ft's
Here is the link to the one I got. May be on the larger size but for 600 bucks I wanted one I knew I could grow into in the off chance I outgrow or wound the engine ever.
I will have to modifly my exhaust a bit to make it work with the larger t4 flange and the goofy 4 inch v band outlet on the turbine.
Here is the link to the one I got. May be on the larger size but for 600 bucks I wanted one I knew I could grow into in the off chance I outgrow or wound the engine ever.
I will have to modifly my exhaust a bit to make it work with the larger t4 flange and the goofy 4 inch v band outlet on the turbine.
Is this it http://bit.ly/1E7S9Fv
Borg Warner Airwerks S300 TURBOCHARGER TURBO 177275 .91 A/R
IN STOCK - NO BACKORDER DEBACLE TO DEAL WITH
Price:
US $534.00 Free shipping
03-31-2015, 03:11 PM
