fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Here ya go. Hope ppl dont hate the music to much but thats about all i listen to...lol

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Took the car for a nice ride today.

Got the Afrs to 11.3-11.7 the whole lick of a 2nd 3rd gear pull.
Not a drop of KR Car felt strong. Finally got my boost spike under control if I just got WOT while rolling at 30 mph. Leads for a nice rolling burn out..lol

One thing that worries me and I need to go check over the plugs and such first. But Under WOT at about 5k rpms in 3rd it had a loud single back fire. I immediatly let off thinking that I just killed something. I drove it for a few miles slowly then gave it just a little gas and she took off like normal again. This worries me.

Also Im seeing that the trans is starting to get worst shifting slower on the datalogg and the rpms are varying more and more. No biggie though as i knew it would happend. Hopefully it can just hold out a few more races.

Edit: How ya like my mower? lol Got a few of those lil turbos laying arround.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Well I found a cracked header the other weekend after racing. Tig welded it up so its fixed. I also replaced a flange gasket as it was blown out on the pass side. I take it for a ride and blow it out again, and also notice that the drivers side is blown out. Not its not killing my spool up but its just not going to work right. I really do NOT like the current exhaust set up I have.

To top it off the transmission is getting more and more loose. Its definitly slipping badly so much that i can feel it. Being that the last few times i raced it took everything i could to to get Low 13 second 1/4 miles out of it.... and its inconsistant as you can think. Its done for the year.

I hit my goal this year. I only ran 13 Psi of boost max and I made 5 passes in the 12 second zone with a best of 12.88 and a amazing 1.76 60 foot time just foot braking it. So i'm not at all upset with the car. I just need to tweak it more to make it a faster car and mainly i need to work the headers and the transmission.

I figure why try and boost the engine and push that to over come a crappy transmission.

Now what needs done to this 700r4 to make it handle anything i give it? I really dont want a Th350 just because of the idea of no OD and i have to travel to tracks.

AM91Camaro_RS

the 700 I have in my car was built by a "local" guy down here and he claimed it would hold up to the 500hp I told him I plan to throw at it. Of course, that's still a "some day..." so I can't say if it'll really hold up to it or not. IIRC I paid about $500 to have it built.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I know a really good transmission guy to build on, i just wasent sure what kit to look into and so forth. I think that Ive learned that a stock gut transmission is only going to last me one year at the track...lol and im getting tired of changing them out.

project89

iTrader: (1)

Talk to Dana in the trans forums , if I were u I would go with at least a 2004r. It's stronger and opens back up the trans brake option very very cheaply

Not to mention much better gear ratios

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok will do dave.


Got out to the local car show today with the camaro and my moms 1962 Olds 98. Believe me that olds is a stunner. 43k original miles and it shows it especially in the interior. But anyways here's a few pictures of the cars.

I couldn't believe all the comments i got on the car and the amount of ppl just saying wow. I even had a older guy say damm look at that.... and so on. Reminds me of why I didn't conform on this car and go V8.

Racing seasons pretty much over so its on to the winter tear down and fix some issues that need attention.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ive been getting the pieces and such together for the new headers. Would a flex coupler be a good idea to stop the headers from fighting each other? I was going to put it on the x over pipe. The headers will resemble project89s headers.

I have all the 1 1/2 inch pipe i need. Also i still need to get the 2 1/2 inch for the x over. Also i need to order the 3 into 1 header collector. I plan to run mild steel just because i have a wire welder handy in the grage and the tig i can use isnt something that i can just bring home and use in the garage. I plan to tack up alot of this stuff on the spare set of heads i have.


this is the collector
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hooker-Super-Competition-Formed-3-Into-1-Collector-11511HKR-/190902491325?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c72acd8bd&vxp=mtr

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

A flex coupling will help with the heat expansion and you probably won't blow out the manifold gaskets and such again. IMO, the way you had those wrapped may have been part of the problem, ideally you want the entire header wrapped flange to flange as whatever is exposed is where the heat will go. Still can't believe you pushed that thing so hard without intercooling. I guess I didn't have intercooling with the original motor either but I was using n2o for that haha.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Alcohol works wonders at keeping that air in check and the engine happy. Its not perfect for street driving but is good for drag racing. Im tossing a intercooler on it this winter while its torn down though.

Thanks for the tips on the exhaust wrapping.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Got one header minus the flange built up. The C-C spaceing is spot on and so its the levels. helps that im a apprentice pipe fitter but im just learning. Opted to mig weld and use mild steel though....

Dave im sure you can see your pictures under the header... those really do help and i know the drivers side is the tougher one. This one only took about 3 hrs so far. Shes sealed up pretty good. I want to figure out how to make some caps and add some pressure in the header to make sure it holds...like 15psi or so just to be sure.

project89

iTrader: (1)

i thought u were building stainless ones ?

u doing the same setup i have?

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I opted out of the stainless because i got the hook up on a sprint car header kit. 40 bucks to the house and a crap ton of 1 1/2 tube. And because i have my own mig welder, don't have a tig welder of my own and didn't want to rely on borrowing it all the time.

Yea i'm going for the same thing as you had. It might be a tad different here and there but generally the same.

Im just trying to figure out how you fit that pipe up so well where the main pipes coming off the headers merge then go into one to the turbo...

project89

iTrader: (1)

dont put a 90* up bend on it , go 90* twards the fender , it will make things alot easier specially when u get an intercooler .it will also make the merge pipe alot nicer
u can put a merge right on the end of the 90* and have both pipes feeding stright in

look were i mounted pilsburys turbo

what u are going to need is a 2.5 inch donut or the tightest radius 2.5 inch bend u can find , and u will prollt have to cut the collector back like i did , specia;lly since it looks like ur passenger side header angles upward a bit , mine stayed dead level

project89

iTrader: (1)

what pics do u need ill go dig them out of my photobucket
or instead of a merge pipe what u can do is put the 90* twards the fender then use a 2inch x over , get a 2 inch holesaw and holesaw a 2inch hole into the back of the 90 and feed the xover into it

u can also do it with 2.5 inch which i would do , but the holesaw will have to be perfectly centered and u dont fully cut the hole otherwise the hole will be way to big.

u go ust far enough that most of the outline lines up with the pipe then u hand cut the rest of it on the top and bottom so u dont have a huge gap to fill with the mig

edit actually ust use the 2 inch or 2 1/8th holesaw and cut all the way in ,that should make the hole a lil tight and u can ust die grind or file the hole to fit the pipe in perfectly

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I need better shots of where the pipe will merg with the drivers side x over pipe. That connection there is going to be tricky i feel, to make it flow well. I sorta understand what you mean, the pics do help alot though.

Yes my headers are angled a tad down hill actually. That was just the best way that i could get so i could get a solid seal with the welder.

I figured i would cut the collector back a bit. Its hanging out there quite a bit...lol

project89

iTrader: (1)

ur merge will be different then mine or spilsburys

his merges into the passenger header behind the collector , mine merges right under the turbo flange , but my flange is up not out

but some pics should help u to make urs , same concept just different position


ill get some pics up shortly

project89

iTrader: (1)

put ur turbo out like this


and this is were his merge was done ( u cant do this with the style headers ur building)

project89

iTrader: (1)

this is how i did my merge

u can do the same ur pipes will be parallel instead of 90* to each other
heres some pics to show u how mine are and so u can copy the driver side



and ds header



in car shot when mocking up

mock up shots

project89

iTrader: (1)

here u can see why i say goto the side and not up


one more word of advice put flanges on both sides of the x over and use a flex pipe in the middle of the x over

u wont curse and yell as much as i did anytime i had to unbolt or bolt the headers back up

project89

iTrader: (1)

this is the entire system we came up with on pilsburys car







u can run ur intercooler pipes the same way
u have to cut a big hole in the tray area on the passengerside to get the chargepipe and bov there along withthe air filter

in that position the turbo grabs outside cool air

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Good good stuff. Thanks dave. That helps me alot! I busy but on friday im going to spend some time fabing up the driver-side.

Ill post pics when i tac up some more pipe. Thanks again

project89

iTrader: (1)

mo prob man i have lots more and hi res ones if u need them just let me know

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok. Ill update as i make some more progress.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Started to tack up the offset over to the turbo. Its going to be a rolling offset (90* angled up, 45* over into the turbo)with the merge on the bottom 90* over.

Ill load up a pic here in a day or two when i get time to take some shots.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I got the merge done up with a random going up to the turbo which will have a turned 30* bend into the turbo flange with the gate right after the merge and a random over to the x over which will have a v band flange on it arround where the random ends.

I should have made the merge closer to the end of the 90* but i took a pic inside and by looking in there the flow should be ok.

Another thing I've noted is how close i am to the serp belt. I've only got about 3/4" gap on there...don't know why the helll i didn't see that before when i was just tacking up the primary's and collector. I plan to fully wrap everything but i may need to extend the primary's just a hair.. about 1 inch which wont mess with anything i have going on, i just want to make sure the #5 cylinder primary isn't in the way of the 3" DP i plan to run down the firewall.

project89

iTrader: (1)

that will work just fine , and dont worry about the belt mine is as close or closer , hell my radiator hose is within 1/4 inch of the turbine housing

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Cool. I ran out of wire so i gotta get some more before i can finish up the collector to merge weld. Im getting my flat stock this weekend. Its 3" x 3/8" or 1/4" so hopefully i can hole saw out the holes and then get that done and also work the flange for the turbo and wastegate position. I like the idea of 1/4 inch but not sure if that's too weak?

project89

iTrader: (1)

u defifnatly dont want to use 1/4 u want 3/8's or 1/2 inch

also when u weld them to the primarys make sure u have the header bolted to a cyl head or it will warp pretty damn bad

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok will do. thanks for the tips dave

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Here is a few more pics. I was trying to copy yours dave but some of the stuff was a tad tight here and there. Hopefully this set up wont hurt flow so far.

Who has a tip for how to seal up the collector to the pipe easier?? I fought the passanger side one. It was hard to seal that one up.

Also I may have to band saw off the tube that will go to the header flange as its just a tad too long. It was too short since i measured wrong then i just added one inch but could stand to loose 3/8 of a inch off of it. Else then that its going well.

Plan to run the pipe off the drivers side down to meet up with the x over i have. Got a vband so this will be a first as ive never delt with them before.

project89

iTrader: (1)

its a lil ugly but should work pretty darn good

looks like ur justa tad close to the plastic tank on the power steering pump , and if i were u i would remake the merge other then that happy boosting

ive got my winter work cut out for me

in the middle of building a 406
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...406-build.html

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Yea i know it isnt the prettiest..lol Ill wrap it up well this time once im done, hate to hide it but i know im no expert at making up headers..

I plan to shorten the # 4 6 primary and twist the #2 a tad and that should get me a good 1 inch away from the PS tank. The #2 is just tacked on there but the other 2 are sold leak free.

I saw that build page. Looks like you've got plenty of work cut out for ya. Ill be following it.

project89

iTrader: (1)

shouldnt be to bad the engine is all apart . some light surface rust in the bores and some surface rust on the crank most of it wipped off with my finger , so a lil oil and some rubbbing and it should be good to go.

if all that checks out i need a quick bottle brush hone so the new rings seat , replace the cam bearings and reassemble with new bearings and rings.

i may have my tpi unit sold and the money from that is going twards an single plane efi manifold and 4bbl tb. im willing to bet the tpi is costing me 100-150 hp

im still torn on the comp cam xe268 as the lobes are very agressive for a flat tappet cam but i know the thing will make real good power . might have to call up delta and see if they can grind me something close with a lil less agressive lobe

if all goes well i should only have about 250 bucks in the shortblock 600 in the heads and another 300 in induction

lil more then i want to spend on a factory 400 block , but give that i dont run over the crankshaft at some point i think ill enjoy the extra 51 cubes and lil more bottom end power

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Not much progress lately but i did make a video the other day. Its got the season in general and some night under fire stuff on it. Enjoy the vids and music!!

project89

iTrader: (1)

updates????

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Not really. Lots of work lately and the apprenticeship school though our union keeps me pretty busy

I need to do some research on what cam i need to get though. I though id better get that done soon though. So i can put some $$ aside for it. The 260 is nice but even with the better springs im still not happy with the power above 4500 rpms when im shifting at 6100-6200 and cross the stripe at the track at 5600.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Also still need a intercooler and the piping for it...lol the list goes on. Seems like ever winter this car suxs me dry..lol Let alone my transmission delema.

project89

iTrader: (1)

a cam may help a lil bit but id just go something slightly smaller then the 272 or a split pattern 262/268

the problem is at that point the long runner intake along with its small plenum becomes the choke point , and the cam wont run to its potential , the stock intake even holds back the 260 a bit

if ur going to play with this thing and keep it along time and just want to go all out go with the 262/268 cam or 272 cam and build a pizza box upper intake for it


ur last option is swaping to a 3.4 intake while nowere as good as a pizza box upper it will allow for more power up higher with its shorter runners and slightly larger plenum volume

to use the 3.4 intake u have to cut the x over tube off the back and weld up the 2 holes , then it will bolt on


without any of the changes above u have to make up for the lack of flow and the short commings of the long runner design by upping the boost

project89

iTrader: (1)

leave the 700 in it for now , didnt u end up buying that good converter for it ?
work on the motor then do the trans

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Will update more later but I have a 2002 impala that is being retired from the road sitting next to the camaro. Pretty sure im going to do the hybrid swap over the fall and winter. Need to do more research but I habe the whole car to my disposal

Fallen2603

Now we're talking. DO IT.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

which piston should I get for this car I know I need 3100 ones But any recommendations? the Impala has two hundred and ten thousand miles on it what all should I do to the heads to ensure that I do not have any problems.

since I would get new piston I would need new rings should I get moly rings? I plan to have the my current block checked out and honed out since I will be having new pistons and rings.

also I know that I cannot use a distributor with the 3400 intake without modification so I plan to go DIS. can I use code 59 with this? and is there certain coil pack's that I should get to keep up with the horsepower I plan to have. And im still reading up the crank triggger it would be nice to have external one.

project89

iTrader: (1)

Fix the drive line issues first. I.e. the trans. Or u will have more problems

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I plan to. This is going to be a longer time frame project. I wana do it right and take my time.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Well got off the phone with my friend that has a speed shop. He good to hone out the 3.1L block i have, toss in new cam bearings...exc, clean up the block, and assemble the new pistons and make sure i have the ring gap i want. I'm still not sure if i should get the speed-pro or KB pistons. But the thing is, I can only find these for M code engines (3100) KB are only in J code but i've only looked around on summit and other places like that. And these SP ones at summit don't offer oversize ones either... Not sure why

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sl...et?prefilter=1



But the hybrid is on for the plans. There's no turning back now. It might take me a year to pull it off and get everything done right but its a new goal id like to accomplish.

Gumby

which ever ones will take 20-30 psi

project89

iTrader: (1)

use these and bore the block
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enginetech-P1584-6-100-Piston-GM-3-1L-189-ALUM-CYL-Head-Coated-Skirt-Dish-Top-/121184410820?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c37275cc4&vxp=mtr
the engine tech moly rings are good u can pick up a set for 50 bucks

if u want a specific size bore let me know and ill link u , if u want standard stuff let me know to since i dont know how much money u have to play with


if ur going to build this heres how it should be done

rods reconditioned/resized with arp rod bolts + polish the rods
main studs + line bore
head studs
sbc cam bearings ( king brand)
king main and rod bearings
over bore + proper hone for moly rings , .028 top ring gap .023ish on the second

swap also needs a longer pushrod


do u want 8.9-1 cr or 9.5-1 cr ????

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Id like the lowest CR that i can get away with. 8.9:1 would be nice. How far can you bore out a 3.1L block though without having the walls too thin?

project89

iTrader: (1)

.030 or .040 is fine hell most late 3.1 blocks can safely be bored out to 3.4L

i would go with 9.5-1 specially if ur going to have aluminum heads, more cr the faster it spools and the more power it makes. mines 9.2-1 and iron heads no meth and no issues

if ur going to put a 272 cam in it the higher compression will also help out if not be needed for cruising or u may get surging

come up with exactly what u want out of the combo and i can narrow down parts a bit better for ya

my iroc is right around 9.7-1