fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

yea OT. Have a autometer 5 inch with shift light on the way and a slp line lock kit. Hopefully i can hook the stuff asap before the races. Im in hopes that those items will help my starting line consistancy since ive had no tach else then the stocker since i added the 6 plus box.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Yea finally a nice tach. Paid a little over 100 bucks for it and it was still new in box from a friend. Cant go wrong there. The camaros gonna bleed me dry eventually..lol

I assume that our v6 ingnitions are 3 pulse? I have to cut a wire on the tach and its either 1 or 3 pulse.

project89

iTrader: (1)

whats the part number on it , u can go on summits site and download the instructions for it

does it have wires to cut or a switch

Gumby

Its fun though & something useful, women would just buy clothes n shoes

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Got the tach wired in last night and works great. Also got the line lock wired in but didnt plum the brake lines yet. This upcoming weekend ill be racing so well she how it does.

Did drive the car for 2 60 mile trips this weekend. Amazes me how streetable and normal it is when your just driving normal...

AM91Camaro_RS

is the switch for the line lock? if so, I think I'd go with a momentary push button, personally.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Yea theres a switch for the fans, the alky injection(those are on whenever i start the car for the most part) And then the 2 step arm switch(though brake peddle too) And the line lock. I need to get a momentary push button but I just tossed on the slp kit and thats what it came with. Itll be fine for now but i definitly change it soon.

project89

iTrader: (1)

lmao @ fun button , that has to be the arming switch for the 2 step

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I just finished up the line lock. I will say for the extra few buck on the slp it was worth it for someone like me who hates messing with brakes lines and fitting. It was so easy and fast to hook up. Probly 20 minuets in total from start to finish minus the bleeding of the brakes. That is always fun job.... But the line lock works nice. Took it out on the road and it works great. Press the peddle a few time and hold it to the floor, hit the button and its rock solid. Should make for some fun burnouts now that i dont have to worrie about the rear brakes getting red hot.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

All cleaned up and just awaiting for the races this weekend. Im pretty pumped up as I havent got to go in almost a month due to work and rainy weekends.

Boost is going to stay the same 12.5psi and lets just hope i can keep it in the 12s

project89

iTrader: (1)

fast u gota get rid of that bov and get one of these rfls on it

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Went 12.88 and had a 60ft time of 1.76 this morning. What a long night at night under fire. First round at 7am and was awake for a solid 24 hrs before race time. Ill post up some stuff after i sleep..lol

project89

iTrader: (1)

nice when u post back up did u use antilag or anything and still on the same old tune?

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Same exact tune as prior and no antilag. But I could hold it very well at the line. The 60 foot felt very strong. Felt like i could do a wheelie..lol but 1.70s is fast for me.

Slips on the attachment if you can see it.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Nice...

RBob.

project89

iTrader: (1)

needs 2 more cyl's :P lol

sorry couldnt resist

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I knew youd say that dave. Nice BOV sound i like it!

I was just happy to see that 60 foot i pulled. Im amazed on how hard it launched. Felt amazing. Too bad i didnt log it so i could see how much boost i was holding at the line. You could definitly hear it just spooling away.

project89

iTrader: (1)

same bov u should be running , thats the rfl , i have it set on soft right now since im running around with low boost, u should hear it set n hard with high boost


any video fromt he track

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I ran a 13.12 and a 13.14 durring time trials. It was pretty hot and humid. The altitude was horrid. I have vids of them but there not impressive. I didnt get the 12 on vid though. Thats why i dialed down on the first round. 13.06, thinking it would be a 13.00-13.05 run. Well 65 degrees and early in the morning showed me how much that turbo liked the better air... opps because i knew better.

Im actually happy that i red lighted so that i could go all out and see what it would run with cooler air for once.

This was a huge even this weekend. 40k people there. The 35k seats were sold out...lol I still cant believe how many ppl were coming up to look at my car and asking me questions. It was amazing. Pretty cool too. Met a few GN guys from pburg out there too. They thought it was impressive and told me if i wana go faster put a 3.8 in it..lol I had a feeling they would say that. The funny thing was that they couldnt believe i had stock guts in it and running high 12s in a engine that ran 17s stock.

project89

iTrader: (1)

turbo cars love cold good air wait till late fall and that thing will pick up a bunch

and yes a turbo v6 in one of these cars draws alot of attention

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Got a newb question. How can a person safely replace the valve springs with the heads on the car. I assume the only way is with some sort of tap for the spark plugs so that there is pressure in there so the valves dont fall in. Id think that my compresion tester would work hooked to my air comrpessor. Any idea on how much pressure i need to retain in a cylinder to do so?

There is no racing for about 4 weeks. I tore down the car really fast today because I have a oil leak thats driving me nuts. Looks to be the oring on the dizzy. So since I have some of the top end off i really would like to change out the springs and see if im floating the valves at the track or if my cam is just that small that its just not making much power above 4500 rpm.

Im also going to go ahead and get a catch can and rig it up so that my filters off the valve covers go somewhere else then a hose going to nowhere...lol

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Im about to get some springs retainters and locks finally. Are the 981s too strong if i keep the 260 cam for the rest of the season?

project89

iTrader: (1)

u need a fairly large compressor u use a fitting that screws into the sspark plug hole and hook that to the compressor and just set air presure to max


i dont think a lil portable air compressor will have enough air to do it


the other trick is to pull the spark plug and get a long piece of rope that fits in the spark plug hole , u start putting the rope in the cyl threw the hole and then bring the piston to tdc or as close as possible, the rop wedges the valve shut. change the spring , back the pistion off and pull the rope back out


most older car guys prefer the rope method as if the valve does drop it will only be a very small amount and u can still get the new spring on

project89

iTrader: (1)

981's are fine since the cam is already broken in , save the stockers for when u get a new cam , when u get the new cam break in the cam with the stockers and then reinstall the 981's

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

ok dave thanks.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

springs, retainters, a new dizzy oring, some paint for the crap i messed up from the fire, all on the way.

Saar

dizzy o-ring leak on a 60V6?

never in the history of ever has that happened.

i hope you got the silicone(?) version, should be brown, that is what us distributorless guys use since the black original style will apparently fail again.

34blazer

You can pick up an air hold at the parts store(AZ, or Advance) for cheap. I used a pancake compressor before with no problems, just cycles more which can be annoying LOL.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Yea i got the good ring coming.

Thanks Joe. Ill hopefully get the springs in 2 days and will get at it this weekend.

I just hope that they help. From what i understand boosted engines valve float is a tad masked compared to the pop pop of a NA car. So if it helps then it does, if it doesnt they should have been replaced anyways since there stock pressure right now.

Gumby

use cotton rope, any fibers left behind will burn off clean.

project89

iTrader: (1)

thanks i forgot to mention using a cotton or cord rope, nylon rope shouldnt be used

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Summits fast when you live so close. The springs, retainers, stem seals, and locks are here already. Hope to tear into it on saturday afternoon.

Not sure if it will help the car but it sure cant hurt it to add those parts.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Got the engine put back in a few hrs today. I used the air compressor for the valves and it held up fine. Cycled on and of every few minutes but would keep the 90 psi.

Heres some pics. Heat painted the under hood area with primer, base, and clear. Same with the mid and upper intakes and valve covers. The fire really messed up that stuff.

Only issue I had is setting the timing. Its the weirdest thing. When im setting it to my base. I can see the scribe in the balancer but it damm near looks like there is 4 of them in a row from 0 -12 degrees and no im not drunk. Any idea why this illusion is possible? Could it be my crappy light? Ive never ever had a issue setting the base. Thanks fellas. Will be racing in about 3 weeks. But once i get the base timing in I can see if i gained any power with the new springs from the float.

Oh yea. Finally opted for hood shocks. Its nice to not have to use pvc to hold it up..lmao

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Now I've seen where the timing can walk before on a balancer. Mine isnt doing that, never really has. May move 1* at most on all the times ive set if before. It litterly looks as if there is 4 notches as one time flashing off under the light(4 degrees of a gap total). Weirdest thing.

Im going to look over the dizzy set up tommorow and also make sure the wires arent picking up from each other. I am using a pretty old timing light. It was my grandpas from back in the day. Never had issues with it before but that may be to blame also.

The car does run good though idles nice but im not sure if the timing is 8 or 12 at this point for a base. The tune calls for 10 atm. I just wana get it fixed so i can go try out those new springs.

project89

iTrader: (1)

spin the engine over with a racthet till u f ind the big groove in the balancer , then paint it white with whiteout or a paint marker , then re-time the engine

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I figured it out. That msd box is setting off those multiple sparks and that makes it look like 4 spots at once per revolution. I just reved it up past 3k and you can see it slowly go away so that i was sure that the timing was correct for what i was going to put into the bin.

I just took it for a drive. I turned down the boost to 10psi and lowered the wastegate DC. It actually felt faster up top. You could feel it keep pulling. Although for some reason on the second pull i felt a hichup. It almost felt like a fuel cut. I know it cant be the spark gap. As I look at the data logg it shows that it went to 26 kpa for one cell from the 170ish area. Then went right back to the 170 instantly. Then went lean but i also immediatly let off.

I have to go look a few things over and see if theres a issue there or what. But for the most part the springs definitly helped. It also leaned out the afrs a tad which i need to richen up. It was 11.6-11.8 on the pulls. Solid and smooth but a tad lean for me with the alky. I aim for 11.5 tops.

project89

iTrader: (1)

bypass the msd to set base time , stock icm has a built in advance at a certian rpm when the est wire is disconected , so if u rev the motor to get rid of the multiple sparks u may be setting base time with the advance kicked in

told you that u were floating thevalves :P

now if u can get somone to weld up that intake for ya u will really make a bunch more power in the 4-6k+ range

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I went out and looked over the engine area. Its probly not a good thing when you wiggle the map sensor harness and the car studders.... So I got that fixed and hopefully that was the problem. I didnt get a chance to drive it again but probly will tommorow after work.

On the log I definitly didnt have and KR which is a good thing. Plugs are fine and hopefully that little shot of fuel cut didnt wound the car. Seems ok but ill find out next time i take her for a spin. Ill recheck the timing just to make sure. I wasent aware that there was any advance in the timing with the esc disconnected now matter what rpm.

Im cleaning the air filter right now. Damm thing was bad. Thats what ya get with a stone floor garage. But I never take it off except for the track so its got some miles on it.

project89

iTrader: (1)

yeah a loose map will do that, i have that issue on my iroc with the ait senor , wire is proken inside the insulation so every now and then its like u unplug it , just have to wiggle the wire to fix it.

but when it goes out it makes my car run dead rich , lol i can blow a ton of black smoke like a diesel when it goes that rich

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Diesel camaro! Nice.
Any idea how much the timing advances on that ICM? Mabey its a good thing I had its under what it thought it was..lol May be alot leaner then I think when its base is correct.

project89

iTrader: (1)

they say 10* on a v8 so not sure on the v6

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

they add 10??? or 10 total. Jezzz thats alot. That must be so you can get home if the ecm takes a crap in limp home mode. Ill get it right tommorow so that its idleing under 1600rpms to set the timing.

Saar

FSM shows that timing is supposed to be set in park at 800RPM. 10*.

then in another part, shows the same 10*, but at 675RPM.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I have 13 as my reference angle in the bin. But i also saw that on the balencer at about 3k rpms. As the msd box stoped throwing multiple sparks at about 3k.

Ill just have to wire arround it I guess. Im sure regreting not getting a msd to coil connector harness for that box now. Im getting thin on the coil harness wires.... since ive had to do this once already a few months back when my dizzy had issues and i wanted to make sure it wasent the box.

project89

iTrader: (1)

yes it adds 10* over base in limp home mode once a certian rpm is met, i have tested it and the switchover point has varied from one icm to another

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Got out and finally saw the timing correct. It was 9* base. I had 13 in the bin as a reference..lol. Well I definitly was shorting myself on timing.

Cant drive it tonight. But the fueling is definilty going to be tuned. I was lean compared to before i did the springs and i was running 4* under my reference base timing in the bin. So if it goes back to the timing I had before Im sure its going to be so lean that it will hurt the car. Guess those springs did help..lol

Im going to go and add some fueling in firest, keep the boost lower 10psi or so. And see what that does later this week when I get a chance to drive it.


BTW I could see the timing advance on the tab with the esc wire off. Id say it went up 4-6* when you rev it up high from a hot idle. Learn something new each day. Thanks fellas

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Well i finally got to drive the camaro arround and log it.

It went well. I added a good amount of fuel. About 5% for the 4500 and up rpm for my boosted areas. Ended up seeing 10.8-11.0 on 2 nice pulls. I also took out .7* of timing just because prior to the log. So else then dialing in the afrs a tad its running good with the new springs. I was also just running 10.75psi and it felt good. Slowly ill turn it back up to 12.75psi and log it a few more times. And get back to the track in 2 weeks

Racing is in 2 weeks again. Only 3 races left that i plan to go to. I will be honest though, after the car show im going to on the 21st of september, im turning up that boost a tad for the last race. If it survives then thats awsome...lol 14-15psi is what id like to run just for shitss and giggles(itll be a good solid tune though, im just worried about the rear end or tranny more then anything)

project89

iTrader: (1)

how do the logs compare with the new springs versus the old springs and more boost

does it feel stronger in the upper rpms?

the trans will hold what will burn up the trans is holding it to long on the line to build boost, this causes lots of heat , as far as the power its making going down the track u will be fine

this is why i say to use the antilag to build boost as it will come up on boost alot faster then footbraking

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

It feels like it pulls better at the higher rpms. Even the injec dc is higher at those rpms for once since ive tuned it a tad. As for my butt dyno, but you can definitly feel the difference.

Its going to be one hot week here but im going to dial in in better after work each day.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Made 2 logs tonight on 2 different tunes. The first just was horrid. Way to rich. I was aiming for the 13.0-13.25psi area on these tunes.

2nd tune was better. 11.0-11.3 afrs on the pull. Running 19.5-20.0 degrees of timing. The air intake temp went from 115 at the start to about 178 at the end. Its about 90*s outside today. Not one drop of KR. I even upped the attack rate above 3200rpms just in case.

The car feels amazingly fast and it keeps pulling. Im not trying to shoot myself in the foot but if i can nail down a 1.7x 60 foot time again with this tune its gotta be at least a tenth or 2 faster then prior.

Im not going to do any more WOT pulls though because im starting to see more and more areas where my rpms go up and down a tad in 3rd gear which reminds me of my other tranny that was slipping. Although this trans shifts hard fast and positive for now, i dont want to risk adding long WOT pulls on hot days like today when there isnt a time slip at the end or a video...lol