evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Last weekend I replaced my tranny lines and while dropping the tail of the transmission I ended up knocking a spark plug boot loose on the distributor. Well I drove it around like this for 3 days and my car started knocking, not running right and you could hear it miss firing and it's was shaking pretty bad, well after I found the loose plug it still did it after I pushed the wire back on. So I thought I had fouled the plug too much and it needs replacing so I went out and bought all new ac delco plugs and new wires and installed them last night. My car ran fine, well after coming home today and turning my car off, after I restarted it it started shaking again and didn't sound right. What's this sound like to you guys? Bad injector? What? Help please

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

?? The the cap on the dizzy didnt get hit, or like yanked off a little did it?

Did it ever run like that prior to your replacing the tranny lines?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

In the one who hit the wires, I either did it pulling the wire loom out from behind the dizzy or pulling the tranny stick out to refill it, so no nothing but me ever came close to my dizzy, and no It never ran like this before that I can remember. Had a slight vibration before at idle in gear but not like this, this shake is bad enough to rattle stuff on the engine and on other parts of the car. I didn't think of my dizzy cap because if it was that, the plugs and wires wouldn't have helped would they?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

TTT

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Umm did you check all the wires to make sure you didnt accidently pull one loose, like the o2 sensor wire or the ets(timing) wire?? look over every wire and vaccum line i guess.

You could check the fuel pressure and mabey it is a injector but its just weird that your did that work to it, then it started acting funny....

ex-x-fire

Disconnect each plug wire one at a time to isolate the dead cylinder.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

it only does it really bad after its warm, i havent had the chance to check it since my run saterday but ill be driving it again this week so ill see what happens, if it still does it im going to check all the plug wires, for disconnected plugs for when i pulled my loom out, then if it still comes up blank im going to pull the injectors, i have 3 sets, 1 set of 3.1s in the car now, a spare set of 3.1s, then the original 2.8s.

the thing that gets me is after i replaced the lines, let it warm up to check and add fluid, then drove it, it drove fine, after i drove it and shut it off it acted like this, mis firing, not running right, ideling really low, below 500 like 450, and shaking. after that i limped it home, got it in the garage and let it sit over night, come out the next morning and started it and it ran fine till i drove it and it got warm. same case after i replaced my plugs and wires so its confussing me.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Well I decided check the plug wires, and if I pull on off and try to run it it won't run, but it pissed me off coming home so I got into it, it has no ***** till I hit higher rpms the. I swear I can feel that other piston kick in becUse it gain alot more power. I ran my car all day today and it did it coming back home after I had shut it off for a few minutes. It's just ideling too damn low and it's causing my car to shake. But when I wa under the good I was messing with the throttle plate and every once in awhile I can smell a light smell of gas, and I checked my dizzy and it's down tight. I couldn't turn it

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

But it felt like if I put pressure on the plugs from the top pushing them down my car ideled better and stopped shaking

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Help please

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Could be my ignition moduel? Bad cat? Bad o2? Bad coil? Bad cap? Injectors? Bad tps or iac??

Firebird_305

Wait in one of your posts you mention that the motor has no ***** till higher rpm's where you think the cyl kicks in... I may be having the same thing as you then, without the shaking. I never had one of these 6 cyl motors before and always assumed they had no *****. Now you're making me think. Though in regards to your problem. Have a look at the Knock Sensor. The thing may have come loose. I had that problem and it was a poor connection. Could be a very good possibility. Free and easy to fix too! Right side of engine block next to starter.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

I don't have a knock sensor on my car, those are 3.1s only but I will look

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Good thinking.. the knock sensor being loose would def. hurt the preformance, but it would probly still shake when at Higher Rpms thus telling the ecm you have spark knock.....

Take that cap off the dizzy really quick and look at the rotor. It might be corroded or very loose.

You sure all the wires are good and the plugs????

Firebird_305

Oh wow I didn't know they were 3.1 only. How does the 2.8 detect a spark knock then? Just curious. Though thing is with higher rpm, the car ran better (no shaking), literally had the car floored once going 20 mph up a hill. I got to the point where my ex got out of the car and ran up the hill faster than the car would go. Luckily I fixed the sensor that night and it cleaned up that issue

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

yes my plugs and wires at fine, like I said my car ran beautifully after I replaced them, it was just shutting it off and restarting it did I start this up again. I don't have a knock sensor. I'm going to replace the cap and rotor both tomorrow just to double check. It only shakes when it's in gear because it idles low and is irractic my needle always moves around but now it's worse. It's just weird because ts only after it warms up, and after iv drove it for awhile. But like I said to iChat I drove the **** out of it around town stopping and shutting it off while I went I to stores or what ever and restarting it and it started getting alite worse after everytime so I don't understand it

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Re there any other sensors I would have hit or damaged while pulling or installing those new tranny lines?

Firebird_305

Would the throttle position sensor have anything to do with it? Different trans might result in this. I honestly don't know though because it should all be computer related.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

its the same trans though, all i did was jack the car up, remove the crossmember, lowered the tail of the trans, removed the lines, installed the new lines, reinstalled. when i lowered the tail of the trans i noticed i had the wire loom behind my engine and i pulled it up from behind and rested it on the dizzy till i had the trans all the way it would go, after that i droped the loom back down to where it was originally

Firebird_305

Hmmm... I am not sure, I will check one of my shop manuals tomorrow morning and see what it says. If everything is the same, then perhaps there is a ground that isn't grounded someplace in the bay or something of that sort. Sorry that it happened man, it's upsetting I know!

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

It's just serif because it's right out of the blue and it doesn't do it soothe time, only after I have shut my car off, I'm wondering if I have a leaking injector and when I shut my car off it's leaking fuel down into the plug ", fouling it and causing this

TheEndofanEra

Subscribed!

I'd like to know what would fix this too. My 3.1 does pretty much the same thing: idles poorly until it's warm, then it floods/dies when it reaches temp. That and the shaking like crazy lol.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Also it smells like my exhaust is heavy with fuel

Firebird_305

Ok this may sound silly, but have you tried the idle relearn procedure? That would be a cause as to why you are having these problems. Our other TA, the 5.0, does this every time you disconnect the battery. So I try to not disconnect the battery so I don't have to do the relearn procedure.

XxXChrisGXxX

iTrader: (1)

Did you hit the MAF sensor while replacing those lines or did you remove it before working? Make sure the distributor isn't loose.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

I haven't unhooke the battery at all and my dizzy is tight and I haven't touched the maf

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

I did get a spark a few times while removing the top line because I was touching the battery post

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

From what I read it sounds like my problem is my injectors, I either have some leaking cause it's hard to start after I drive the car and turn it off for a few and ones gone bad so I'm going to throw my other set of 3.1s in

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Well it was my problem and it solved quiet a few different problems aswell. Ripped those old injectors out and installed the ones off my old 90 camaro and my car stopped the running like crap, stopped my irratic idle, my needle barley moves now, and it looks like my car starts faster, not the delayed start like I use to have but I ran into a few new problems. Thr hard black line thst goes from my fuel pressure regulator I broke some off so it barley tracks so I need a new one, it goes to that little black box that's on my throttle body, and I remember when I installed my engine I cross threaded the big fuel line thst goes to my junction block on my rail and from me moving it around it started to leak alittle so I need to get a new block and new fitting to fix that, other than thst my car is running as smooth as ever and has more power

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Awsome to hear man!! Good job, just tidy up those little issue you know about and there ya go!

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

can I replace the FPR vacuum hose with regular line? And where can I get a new fuel fitting for that line and block?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

If you're using the rail I sent you, you're not going to have very much luck with that fuel block. I messed at least one of the ports up a long time ago (pretty sure it was the return but I've forgotten, at least I think that was the rail as I swapped fuel blocks/rails back and forth for a while until I got a combination that ran decent rather than messing with the return line all of the time). You can't replace the fuel block with new, only used. Yes, you can swap it over from the 3.1 rail. The block is aluminum. Chances are you screwed up the block and not the fuel line, since the fitting on the line is steel. If and when you go to swap over the fuel block, make sure the o-rings in the metal gasket thing underneath stay in place.

Replace the vac line with a piece of hose... Oh, and you WILL need to go to the HELP section of the parts store and pick up a set of fuel line o-rings. It's either there or hunting at a bunch of dealerships. Had to go to 3 separate dealers to get the last pair I put in the fuel lines (because the guys that serviced the car while I was at school were a bunch of idiots and didn't realize that rubber hoses FLEX!). And no, you can't run to NAPA and get a pair of their generic BS rings. The o-rings are special nitrile o-rings that are designed for fuel usage. The rubber ones will fail quick.

:edit: Oh, and guys, he's got an 86... No idle relearn and no knock sensor or MAP...

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

okay i have the block off the old 2.8 rail and my 3.1 rail so ill swap it out and hope like hell i didnt screw up my fitting on the line, i never had a problem with it before it was just i got into a hurry and didnt position my lines correctly and crossed threaded before it was to late. and yeah its the fuel rail you sent me, the injectors that were on it were the ones you sent me, i had a few leaking and one finally knocked out but it served its purpose. i cant take that block off while the upper intake is still on can i? im not looking forward to taking that off again, im always scared im going to rip those plenum gaskets or my throttle body coolent hoses again.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Save the cap and the pressure test fitting off of the bad block just in case the other goes bad.

Remove the bolts holding the TB to the plenum and bend it back out of the way, letting the hoses flex, and pull the plenum out from behind it. Or just take the hoses off of the TB, take one off of the adaptor, and bend the other over so it goes onto both. Don't need that hot coolant flowing through the TB anyways . And no, you can't get at but one of the T25 screws holding the block onto the rail with the plenum in the way.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Well I fixed both issues today. Pulled my plenum off and replaced that and I must say I'm glad I did, not only was it leaking but the aluminum was severely messed up, the rubber gasket thing under where the big line goes was deteriorating and falling apart so I got all those fixed and I have no leaks now but I'm going to have to mess with my timing again now thst my cars running like it should.