Hollowood

Just did a 2.8 to 3.4 swap with 700r4 in a 1985 Camaro. Now I have no power and it doesn't want to shift. Takes really high RPMs to shift. I think we must have missed something when we put it back together. Timing is at 10* and TPS is new and .54, can't find any open vacuum lines. Runs fine at idle and in neutral. Any ideas? We sure appreciate the help.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

did you adjsut the tv cable

Hollowood

No, guess I should search for how to do that.

Hollowood

Found it. Sounds easy so I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

No problem. I made the same mistake and had the same stuff happening. After this was done I had all the power I need

Hollowood

Okay, got the TV cable set. Shifted fine for about a block, then wouldn't shift right AGAIN! So I found a vacuum leak, fixed that. Reset the TV cable again. Still not shifting right. Went to set it again and felt a frayed part of the cable behind the adjuster. I think this is causing my problem. Gonna buy a new one and try that, but I can't find one in town so I have to order it. I'll let you all know how that goes in a couple of days.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

After you adjust that right check tranny fluid levels. Does it feel like you have power after you set the tv cable?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Also remember that after you get that new cable on, you push the black sleeve all the way In toward the firewall while pushing the button. After that release the button then open the throttle plate to WOT. You are now set

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Should still have my old TV cable (along with EVERYTHING except the flexplate and pedals from the manual swap) in my garage if you need it... Have padded envelope as well and need to get rid of it (and the transmission and the rest... sigh).

Definitely check the fluid level AND color when you're set. The TV cable may be a bit of a pain to get into the trans with the trans up in position, so you may want to take out the crossmember and drop the tail of the trans so you can actually see what's going on where the TV cable attaches. If you do choose to drop the tail of the trans, leave the driveshaft in the end of the trans or you'll lose fluid...

:edit: Almost forgot.. When you go to adjust the cable after you have it installed, you get in the car and put the go pedal to the floor, allowing the cable to ratchet itself where it belongs, WITH THE ENGINE NOT RUNNING. Also, DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR WITH A MISADJUSTED TV CABLE, as this can KILL your trans VERY quickly.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

its the same from pushing the pedal in the car and using the plate isnt it? aslong as nothings stopping his pedal from going to WOT he shouldnt he havent a problem

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Not quite... The throttle cable MAY have stretched over the years and the throttle plate may not open fully with the pedal fully depressed, not to mention that the throttle stop on the TB may be worn down and allow the plate to come past being fully open, I guess... Just basically saying to do it the way I was taught.

OP, also, make sure you don't have the vacuum lines in the throttle body crossed... The one running to the fuel regulator should be in the manifold vacuum hole and the EGR/canister purge valve should be in the ported hole. Do a manifold vacuum check just in case.

Hollowood

Thanks for the offer, Maverick, but I got a new one. $23.00 and a days wait. I took all of both of your advice, it wasn't very difficult. Car shifts fine now. It runs okay, feels like it's running a little rough and not as much power as i expected, I think my 2.8 felt a little more powerful. hopefully just some fine tuning will solve it.
Here's a pic of the throttle body end of my old TV cable. Pretty messed up.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Check for trouble codes first and then post up any you find. Also check the fuel pressure. And did you swap over the 3.4 fuel injectors to the 2.8 rail?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Yeah definatly tune it and make sure everything is okay on it and set properly. And make sure you used the 3.4 injectors like Dan said. Just another bit of advice, follow everything maverick says. He knows his stuff and helped me with alot of issues on my car.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I wouldn't say that... There are times when I've been wrong...

Also, it may help if you installed the 3.4 injectors straight out of the yard to get a new set from SouthBay or someplace that ACTUALLY rebuilds them. The ones you have could be shorted internally or partially/fully clogged and not feeding fuel into the cylinders.

Hollowood

New 3.4 injectors. When i was test driving it, it sounded like the timing was retarded. I went ahead and bumped it up it runs pretty well at 13* but still has slightly rough idle. This was a junkyard motor out of a 95 Firebird that showed 152,000 miles. When I took it apart it was extremely clean, lifters showed very little wear, really surprised me. I'm thinking maybe a cam? I'm not sure 13* is optimal but so far its a good start. Finally feels a little better than the worn out 2.8. When I finally get it right I'll post some pics. By the way thanks to the late KED for sharing his experience, I followed his article and I think it made things easier than it would have been.

ex-x-fire

Make sure the timing advances when you rev it.
Clean the maf sensor.
Check the fuel pressure, might have a weak regulator.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Wait a minute. Are you still running on the base timing? There's a reason you're supposed to plug the EST bypass connector back in after you set the base timing, so the ECM can control the spark timing as opposed to the ignition module. The reason it's running better with more advance is because it's designed to. Base advance at idle, using the ECM to control the timing, is around 25* BTDC (could be wrong, haven't looked at a stock bin for my HNL PROM in forever), and it advances from there. The timing is set to 10* BTDC to allow for easier starting, period. Yes, it's gutless without advancing the ignition timing, because the advance built into the distributor module isn't enough.

Hollowood

I've been unplugging to set base timing then plugging back in. If this was an older carb motor I would think the idle is too low. At a stop it's a little rough and is smoother with the timing advanced or a little pressure on the pedal. other than that it's not too bad, better on the highway.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Check the spark advance when running... The indicator should be WAY off the scale towards the #1 cylinder.

Did you clean out the throttle body when you dropped in the 3.4? The IAC passage may be clogged. Also, check the boots on each end of the plastic idle air bypass pipe running from the throttle body to the back of the intake and also check the pipe to make sure it's not melted, cracked, or coming unglued. Only way to fix this pipe is to make a replacement out of PVC pipe fittings and heater hose. And also check to make sure that the hose for the PCV valve on the driver's side is seated fully on the valve AND the idle air pipe, and while you're at it, make sure the PCV valve is sealed to the grommet.