flhtcu92

Ok this did help but something is still wrong. I bought my 88 camaro cheap and knew it had a running issue. The guy told me they did a scan and it was gps and egr. I first did some checking on my own havening some back ground on cars but not very good with computers. It would start and run but idle was very high 1500 to 2000 and jerked real bad when driving. I put new plugs wires and cap ( I forgot the rotor because it wasn't on my list nut plan to do that ) because it looked like a xmas tree under the hood at night. I also put a coil and ignition module in and the gps which by the way tested the same as the old one. So I start it up and was hopeful. It idled a lot slower but soon died. It will fire and want too run but don't run well. I checked firing order according too this article and they are the same bit will recheck. I also took cap off and checked rotor and module wires and still nothing. I was wondering if the rotor being the old one would do this? Also the parts inside of distributor are rusty which can't be good. I'm going too get a knew distributor and was also wondering if the wires on module could be wrong? LOL it is most likely something I fudged up I just can't seem too pinpoint it. I need help.
Rich
i

Project 3.4 Camaro

Probably just timing, and what is this "gps" you are referring to? Because I know of no such acronym for a car part..

flhtcu92

LOL oops sorry big finger mistake. TPS

Project 3.4 Camaro

Ah, well none the less, you probalby just bumped the timing a little when you had the cap off. Easy to check and free, so start there.

Aaron_SK

iTrader: (1)

TPS needs to be adjusted after installation.

Could be a pickup coil issue if the "star" wheel under the distributor plate looked rusty.

If you can somehow manage to change the timing of a car when changing the cap and plugs then you should probably think about tightening the distributor clamp.

firebird904

I would take off the IAC and clean it with some carb cleaner. I would also take the throttle body off and clean it with carb cleaner if the IAC is dirty. If no change after that I would get a DMM and hook it up the the TPS connector + on the blue wire - on the black wire and turn the ignition to on. It should read .54 volts, if not loosen the screws and move it till it reads .54. I would also check the MAF by unplugging it and trying to start it. If it starts and runs a little better then your MAF could be crapping out. Check your firing order also if it had issues before you got it the previous owner could have messed with the timing so if you can get it to start and idle hook it up to a timing light and check to see if it's at 10* btdc with the EST plug disconnected ( single wire by the AC/Heater box coming out of the wire loom). Over the last year I had all kinds of little issues with my car which is also an 88 camaro ( sat for years ) and I checked any sensor I could check with the DMM and ruled everything down to a small wiring problem at the IAC and a bad o2 sensor. Now my car runs perfect and idles as it should. Good luck!

flhtcu92

OK I have figured out the first problem. I had found a firing order on a different site and it wa hard too determine which was the #1 on cap. I purchased a camaro book and decided what the heck and moved them one counter clockwise and it worked. I still have an issue with the running. It starts and runs and when u accelerate it stumbles a little then takes off and when it gets to a point it is like u turned the NOS on and it runs better and when u slow down it hits a spot where it deals like it is costing and when u hit the pedal again it stumbles again. I'm going too clean the Iac and recheck timing as one time when I unplugged the EST it didn't change. What is the MAF. I have working on cars a lot but am not very good at the computer part as they didn't have them when I went too school LOL

firebird904

In my experience, that stumble could be caused by a bad TPS. The attached pic shows what the MAF looks like.. When it is running does it smell like it's running rich?

flhtcu92

OK then it must mean Mas Air Flow LOL ok how do i test it?

firebird904

You can try tapping the square part with a screw driver and see if the engine stumbles or stalls. You can also unplug it and start the car and see if anything changes.

flhtcu92

OK I got most it figured out LOL. I unplugged the MAF and it didn't change anything checked timeing and when i unplugged the EST plug this time I noticed that it did not make a change in the running so I plugged back in and scratched my head shut it off and thought about it a while. I started it back up and unplugged it again and it changed the running so I timed it and plugged it back in. Why would it not change when I unplugged the EST? Also someone has installed a crane cam Fireball HI-6 igniton . I have no idea what this is LOL. I also noticed when it is idleing it sounds like dose when you unplugged the EST. It will do that off and on. It has been years since I have really worked on cars and like I said I'm not real good at the computors.

firebird904

Hook up a timing light...you won't be able to keep diagnosing the problem till you know your timing is set properly. With the EST disconnected it should read 10* BTDC. Check for base timing and report back with results.

flhtcu92

Checked timing again. Unplugged EST timed it at *10 BDTC

firebird904

Alright so timing is properly set. Did you check it with the light after plugging in the EST to see if it's advancing itself? If it stays at 10* with the EST plugged in and revving it up then you have a problem with the ignition system. Also it might not be a bad idea to check your fuel filter. My fiero had moisture in the filter and would cause the car to kind of bog out and then rev up just fine.

flhtcu92

Yep replace fuel filter also as far as dose the timing change LOL yes and no. Sometimes it will sometimes not sometimes while it is running it will seem too run fine then u can hear it changed like u unplugged the EST. The service engine soon light is still on. I did notice when I was risk.g with my son then it would go off and on. I disconnected battery too clear codes but it came back on or don't that work anymore.? Im not giving up on this think cause we both want too keep this car.

Aaron_SK

iTrader: (1)

What code is it throwing?

firebird904

It's possible that whoever installed that fireball ignition kit messed with the wiring and that could be causing your problem. Those kit's IMO don't benefit a bone stock engine enough to have it on there in the first place.

flhtcu92

Yea I was thinking that also I'm just not sure how too remove itas I know they have butchered the wires.

flhtcu92

The gut I got it from said that it was an EGR code and TPS code

Aaron_SK

iTrader: (1)

Unhook the battery to wipe the codes then run it till the SES comes back on and pull them again.

flhtcu92

OK cleared codes started it and light came on again I used the flashing light method and got these codes 12, 22, 42 and 45 I don't know what they are but 4 can't be good LOL. It runs and is driveable but sometimes like I said it will change when unhooking the EST and sometimes not.I'm not 100% sure the timeing is right but it is close cause I try too time it when it changes. Sometimes it idles fast and others slow. I did some wiring checking on the High 6 and am trying too remove it but i need too check wiring diagram first.

firebird904

Code 12 always shows up so don't worry about that one. Code 22 is TPS voltage low so either your TPS is bad or you need to adjust it. Code 42 is for EST and 45 is for o2 sensor. Keep in mind though that there could be just one thing causing the ECM to throw 3 codes. I would check the TPS first then keep looking. I'm betting that aftermarket ignition probably has a lot to do with it also. Wiring it back to stock would probably be the best idea and should be pretty straight forward once you have a diagram to work with.

flhtcu92

OK it is a new TPS and O2 sensorand I thought I set it correctly at .55 but will check again and that would explain the EST not working all the time when unplugged. I have dealt a little with the codes and yea I know that it may not be those items LOL that is why when he told me it just needed an egr and tps I knew it may be something else but what LOL. Any idea on what the range of readings are on the TPS when checking? I was getting a low of .33 or close and .55. I have not cleaned the IAC yet as my son seems too be happy driving it the way it is and I don't always have time after work. Do u think I can remove the top and not damage the gasket? I should also mention I have a donutout on the right side and it was getting some wires hot and may have melted some but since it is getting cooler here In North Dakota and I know the bolts will twist off when I remove the flange I have not fixed it yet. I was going too wait till spring when it gets warmer and try and find a manifold. Also they have unhooked most of the air pump hose and stuff and the A/C pump and evaporator canister and the lines going too the cooler. LOL

firebird904

As long as with the throttle closed it's at .54 and as you SLOWLY open the throttle, the voltage goes up in single digits and doesn't skip or hit a flat spot then the sensor is good. For the IAC what I usually do is spray a little WD-40 around the gasket area and slowly loosen it to try and save the gasket and it usually helps. That exhaust leak could be messing with your o2 sensor readings so I would also take care of that. You may have to take a trip to the salvage yard and get yourself an evap canister out of another third gen and get some vacuum hoses and route them the way they need to go following the diagram on the hood if it's still there...I don't know why some people want to eliminate vacuum lines when they all serve a purpose

flhtcu92

OK I took the IAC off and cleaned it my son was waiting too go so I didn't test drive but he will tell me if there is a change. When is that thing suppose too extend and block the hole? If it is suppose too be right away mine is bad. I'm getting an exhaust manifold but not sure when I can get it on, actually I bought the complete motor out of one along with the wiring harness for $200. I could have gotten a 350 and tranny that a guy put about $5000 into but I didn't have 2 grand laying around LOL.

copyfixr

iTrader: (3)

Hey it's nice to see someone else from Fargo on here. My son has an 88 with a 2.8 also. We have been working through some of the same issues as you. We have put it away for the winter but this spring when we have it back here you can sure look at the underhood wiring and vacuum hose routing.

flhtcu92

Cool. Unfortunately I got it for my son also and it is the only car he has. But hey feal free to e-mail me at flhtcu92@yahoo.com or txt i can give u my # if u e-mail unless your name is Mike from Moorehead then u already have my # LOL. This thing needs a lot of TLC. If your not Mike he is in Moorehead and has parts and a project car. Someone else in town that has a 84 that the body is pretty much dhot but he has like 5 grand into a 350 and tranny that at the time he wanted 2 for it.

flhtcu92

OK since I was on last a fuseable link blew by starter and since I had the other motor and wiring harness. I took the intake off the car and both bolts twisted and one on other one twisted. So I figured what the hell since it was nice a last weekend I took the wireing harness out and replaced it. From the computer out around to the back of the fuse box on the fire wall and drilled the mainfold out and got it back on.
so with the exhaust manifold not leaking and the wireing not all butchered ( oh yea I also took the Fire Ball ignition off ) it seems too run a lot better but I think it still idles high. It starts low and slowly increases and seems too get slow again after it warms ( not like the fast idle when cold ) or so my son thinks so. I know some about how the fast idle works but am more used too carbs so what regulates the idleing on this car and how cause once I can narrow it down I think I can find the problem. I have not checked codes since cause my son took the bulb out cause he needed it in another spot

Project 3.4 Camaro

The IAC is what physically controls idle, the computer is what controls the IAC based on sensor input. The throttle stop can also impact idle speed, but only up to a point, because normally the IAC will override, however if you say had the throttle stop adjusted such that the throttle plate was held too far open, your IAC would be unable to compensate enough to bring the throttle down to where it should be, I experienced this on my corsica when I put a bigger TB on it.
The way to adjust for this is to hook up a scan tool and check the IAC counts, should be 15-20 or 25 if memory serves, if it is 0, this means that your throttle stop has it adjusted outside the range the IAC can compensate for.

flhtcu92

Well the cap for the idle adjustment has been drilled out but the screw isn't even touching the arm.

Project 3.4 Camaro

Could be that the TB can't articulate itself closed for some reason, check that it's actually closing all the way.

flhtcu92

OK so i adjusted the idle screw up a little even though in my mind i was thinking it would increase the idle a little and i didn't want it higher but it actually adjusted down a little. Then i adjusted the timing again and I think it is idleing the way it should. So we will see how it is LOL the good thing is my son is happy driving it the way it is and it is getting better and being it is his first car he don't know how it is suppose to run LOL.