Hesitation on acceleration
11-24-2001, 08:28 AM
#1
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Car: 3
Engine: inboard
Transmission: underfloor
Hesitation on acceleration
My G/F has a '91 RS, and lately it's been having an acceleration stumble especialy after a sharp turn. The tank is nearly full.
First of all, I have a pressure gauge I can use to check the fuel pressure per my Haynes book, but where do I get a female Shrader valve end to adapt to the fitting in the MPI manifold, and second, is changing the fuel filter a good start?
Thanks for any replies!
First of all, I have a pressure gauge I can use to check the fuel pressure per my Haynes book, but where do I get a female Shrader valve end to adapt to the fitting in the MPI manifold, and second, is changing the fuel filter a good start?
Thanks for any replies!
11-24-2001, 10:55 AM
#2
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On my 1985 version, I used the adaptors in the kit I borrowed.
The valve is located by the distb in the intake valley area.
I just screwed it in & tested.
I was confirmed what I suspected. Bad fuel pump.
Hope that isn't your problem!
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
The valve is located by the distb in the intake valley area.
I just screwed it in & tested.
I was confirmed what I suspected. Bad fuel pump.
Hope that isn't your problem!
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
11-24-2001, 02:39 PM
#3
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Engine: LH0 3.1L
Definately change the fuel filter. And find a way to check fuel pressure. I've seen MANY trucks(not too many cars though) with shot fuel pumps at around 80,000 miles and they all had clogged fuel filters.
------------------
-Dan
-1990 3.1L RS
-Mods? no
-Slow? yes
-*Slowly* collecting parts for T5 swap
------------------
-Dan
-1990 3.1L RS
-Mods? no
-Slow? yes
-*Slowly* collecting parts for T5 swap
11-24-2001, 03:53 PM
#4
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Car: 3
Engine: inboard
Transmission: underfloor
I bought a fuel pressure test kit, it's right at 42 so it's ok. I replaced the f/f anyway and it's not doing it anymore.
More problems! (runs and drives fine though)I bought a code reader, and then found the "check engine" light is not working, so I can't read codes. Probably unhooked by the car lot she bought it from! Second, on cold start it shoots to 2500 R's and stays there, idles 1000 in gear and 1500 in nuetral. If I unhook the IAC, it has NO effect. I pulled it out and checked it per my Haynes manual, reinstalled it to no effect. What voltage in Mv should I see to that sensor, or is the prob elsewhere?
More problems! (runs and drives fine though)I bought a code reader, and then found the "check engine" light is not working, so I can't read codes. Probably unhooked by the car lot she bought it from! Second, on cold start it shoots to 2500 R's and stays there, idles 1000 in gear and 1500 in nuetral. If I unhook the IAC, it has NO effect. I pulled it out and checked it per my Haynes manual, reinstalled it to no effect. What voltage in Mv should I see to that sensor, or is the prob elsewhere?
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