ADAM NEAL

I am going to do a full tune up on my car this week end.Should I get performance replacements such as msd wires and bocsh plugs? Or all Delco parts?Or maybe a combonation of both performance and Delco? Could you post what parts you use for a tune up along with the prices and how you liked them.All responses are greatly appreciated.Thanks

ChillPhatCat

I go straight cheap *** parts and I haven't had a problem... I believe they were all AC Delco... I just go into the store and tell them I have an '84 firebird, they go get me my plugs and wires and thats that... I have had better luck with my 14 dollar set of wires than I did with my 80 dollar MSD wires... the MSD's were slippin' off the plugs, so I scrapped 'em... I would recommend cheaper parts over "performance" parts since the standard ignition system is just as good for normal Hp curves (i.e. not turboed or SC'd).

I have a question for anybody that cares, how often should I replace the rotor in my distributer?

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1984 Firebird - Daily driver, 305 LG4, T5 - Hurst short shifter, Edelbrock 600 CFM Performer Carb - Edelbrock Pro-Flow air filter, gutted cat, IROC 16x8 Wheels, Goodyear P215/60/R16, AIWA bargain basement (from Sears of course) CD player, Fuzzy dice, Eight-ball shift ****
Check out my ride here $1600!!

First Kill: 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon

[This message has been edited by ChillPhatCat (edited August 28, 2001).]

TomP

I was using Accel distributor cap & rotor kits for a while... but every year I did another tuneup, I'd notice the inside of the cap was all crapped up with carbon deposits. The last tuneup I did (July 2001), I installed an Ac/Delco cap and Ac/Delco rotor. The cost was about the same as the Accel, but we'll see how long these last. [edit] Oh, part #'s... Accel Cap/rotor kit = #8133, AC Cap = #D314a, AC Rotor = D446.

I run the "original" Splitfires for plugs. Splitfires are supposed to sell for $2.95 a plug now, but all the stores around me still sell them for $5.95. Summit Racing carries them for the correct price. I've never had problems with them, never had the complaints anyone else has, and some might argue I'm paying too much for "snake oil"- oh well, it's my preference.

I run MSD 8.5mm SuperConductor wires, and use the "universal" set... meaning, I cut the wires to the lengths I want, and crimp on the distributor terminal & boot. Cost is about $75 from Summit Racing. (Hint- buy the V8 set... you get two extra plug wires... buy 3 sets, and you basically get a "free" V6 set!)

The PCV valve is Purolator (#PV892, $3), as is the fuel filter (#F33144, $??), both are bought from Pep Boys. I also use the PF52 (Ac/Delco part #) oil filter- if your car wants the stubby PF47 filter, it will take the larger PF52 with no problems. The PF52 requires an extra 1/2 quart of oil- put the extra 1/2 quart in it before you screw the filter on. Pre-filling the filter with oil is a "general" oil-change "good idea", since it reduces the time the engine runs without oil. (I use 4.5 quarts of Valvoline 10w30).

I use the Purolator trans filter kit #P1195 ($16) for my 700r4, with a FelPro gasket, #TOS-18663, for $5. I was using "organic" Dexron-III trans fluid (Valvoline), but this year, I substituted a couple quarts for Valvoline's "Durablend trans fluid"- their semi-synthetic dexron-iii auto trans fluid. The rear axle gets two containers of "organic" Valvoline 80W90 ($4/each), and a FelPro gasket (RDS-55072). I'm considering moving to Vavoline's synthetic 80W90 for the rear axle since I replaced the rear axleshaft seals last year. The air filter is a K&N, and gets cleaned/re-oiled with the K&N chemicals. The front suspension gets lubed with Valvoline's Snypower (full synthetic) chassis grease.

I'm happy with the combination... and have been using it for a long time. I do a major tuneup every year, including the above, and all the rest I didn't mention (found in my other major tuneup lists that I've posted before). I'd say at the minimum go for aftermarket wires. Stock wires are set for 15,000 ohms/foot- that's a lot of resistance. Aftermarket wires have less resistance per foot- which means more spark. My MSD 8.5mm's are 50 ohms/foot! Also, the thicker the wire, the less chance for "spark leak"- spark jumping out of the wire towards the nearest metal piece. A while ago, I compared my aftermarket MSD wires to stock 7mm wires. The throttle felt much more responsive with the MSD wires on- the engine seemed to rev up faster.

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

[This message has been edited by TomP (edited August 28, 2001).]

ADAM NEAL

Thanks a lot.

pontiacZ28

Bosch is for German cars
Autolite - Fords
Champion - Chrysler
Ac Delco - GM

You ever see that sticker on the air cleaner?
Says keep you GM car all GM?

Unless you go ***** out MSD, ACCEL or something, don't mix and match crap parts, just stick with the AC parts and you'll be doing fine.

WaynesRS

Ac delcos are REAL good plugs . I have autolites right now in my car b/c a mechanic put them in for me when I was having alot of trouble a few months ago with my car not starting (ended up being an electrical wire to my coil . Anyway , you guys remember the story . Well I took the Autolites out last week and they had a kinda funny wear pattern on them . Im just not sure that I like those Autolite plugs . I think good ole' Ac delcos are the best for our car .

Gm tune-up parts are great parts in general for a car . They dont have a bronze terminal distributor cap for our cars though .Bronze is better , like a BlueStreak Cap , I think Borg Warner cap is bronze to , I belive , someone correct me if I am wrong . Wells also makes a bronze cap .

As for wires , I prefer Accel or Msd . I have accel , but I think most around here prefer MSD ...

Ryan_Alswede

"Autolite - Fords"

No that is incorrect.

Motorcraft is Ford.

Autolites suck all the way around, they are made by the same company that makes FRAM oil filters. Every car make model or brand I have ever tryed putting them in to has had problems with them. I agree, stick with OEM parts so that when you have problems you know it's not the OEM parts. Kind of like putting the car back the way you knew it worked.

By the way Bosch makes a good O2 sensor for our cars.

As for wires get Accel pre made high temp 8mm from summit and don't use those dam heat shelds, they just AID in tracking. As for cut and crimp, not worth your time. Wells makes the WORST car parts know to man, their wires suck BIG TIME.

Borg Warner is the OEM supplier to GM so why not just stick with them, besides they come with a life time warrenty, can't beat that.

TomP

PontiacZ28, I've gotta disagree; there might be a few cases where the OEM parts are stronger, but aftermarket performance parts from a quality name should be just as good. But I do agree as in the case of "stock replacement"... given the chance between using an ignition module made by either Standard or AC, I'd go with AC. If the choice was AC or Holley, I'd go with Holley- unless I wasn't into the performance gig.

Ryan, I remember autolite as being for Fords, too. I think it's an "old" thing... my dad always got Autolite plugs for our former '76 Ford LTD (had a 351M motor, got a bit over 200,000 miles out of it), and AC plugs for our former '77 Nova.