Distrib. replacment.
08-14-2001, 12:03 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Distrib. replacment.
When I replaed my cap and rotor I noticed the my distrib. was rusty. All most completly rusty everything but the outside, and module.
I know how to remove a distrib. and put the same one back in with out screwing up the ignigtion timing, but what would I need to do If I put a brand new one in. I need to use my car to get to and from work every day, 170 miles round trip, and I don't want to start the job and screw it up and not be able to get back to work to make the money to fix what I screwed up.
Also which Distrib. do you guys recomend, Stock, or some other after market?
Thanks!!
1992 Camaro RS
3.1L
Mods
K&N
Flowmaster 80 series
Mods to come in the near future
Dual Snorkle ram air
high flow cat.
port and polish heads and intake
headers if I can find them
and find a way to rework the "Y" pipe (more like a "T" right now) to be more efficent.
I know how to remove a distrib. and put the same one back in with out screwing up the ignigtion timing, but what would I need to do If I put a brand new one in. I need to use my car to get to and from work every day, 170 miles round trip, and I don't want to start the job and screw it up and not be able to get back to work to make the money to fix what I screwed up.
Also which Distrib. do you guys recomend, Stock, or some other after market?
Thanks!!
1992 Camaro RS
3.1L
Mods
K&N
Flowmaster 80 series
Mods to come in the near future
Dual Snorkle ram air
high flow cat.
port and polish heads and intake
headers if I can find them
and find a way to rework the "Y" pipe (more like a "T" right now) to be more efficent.
08-14-2001, 12:52 PM
#2
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Honestly, I recommend rebuilding yours. There's no aftermarket "performance" distributor available... I'm sure there's some aftermarket "stock" ones out there. But for less than the price of a new (or rebuilt!) distributor, you could rebuild yours with a stock pick-up coil (nobody makes a performance one) and a performance Holley spark module. The rebuild is simple as hell; mine took me well under an hour. The thing only comes apart & goes back together one way, too, so there's nothing really to screw up.
Rust inside there isn't a biggie; you can sand if off if you want to. The fingers that spin around the reluctor should be bent to have an "even" air gap. There's no spark that jumps between 'em, it's just a magnetic force. If you use a feeler gauge (meant for valve adjustment), you can set all those gaps to be even. The more even the gap, and the closer the fingers are (without touching) to the reluctor, the stronger the magnetic signal is to the pick-up coil.
Make sure to use a heat-sink grease on the underside of the module, where it screws down to the base. I only got a small packet with my Borg-Warner module (same price as the Holley one is now, $60), so I bought an extra little tube of "heat sink grease" from Radio Shack.
A new brass gear is expensive though; when I priced it, GM wanted either $40 or $60, I can't remember which. I left my gear alone.
The bulk of your time will be spent removing and installing the distributor. The Haynes 82-92 Camaro manual gives the step-by-step on rebuilding the distributor... it's really easy.
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
Rust inside there isn't a biggie; you can sand if off if you want to. The fingers that spin around the reluctor should be bent to have an "even" air gap. There's no spark that jumps between 'em, it's just a magnetic force. If you use a feeler gauge (meant for valve adjustment), you can set all those gaps to be even. The more even the gap, and the closer the fingers are (without touching) to the reluctor, the stronger the magnetic signal is to the pick-up coil.
Make sure to use a heat-sink grease on the underside of the module, where it screws down to the base. I only got a small packet with my Borg-Warner module (same price as the Holley one is now, $60), so I bought an extra little tube of "heat sink grease" from Radio Shack.
A new brass gear is expensive though; when I priced it, GM wanted either $40 or $60, I can't remember which. I left my gear alone.
The bulk of your time will be spent removing and installing the distributor. The Haynes 82-92 Camaro manual gives the step-by-step on rebuilding the distributor... it's really easy.
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
08-14-2001, 12:54 PM
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Car: 1983 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 400HP 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I don't know if this helps but there is a Mallory Dual Point distributor for 2.8 selling on ebay right now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...item=594170526
------------------
Chevy 2.8L 60° V6
Mods:
•K&N Filter Lid
•87 Formula Hood
•Bosch Platinum +4
•Hi-Flo CatCo CAT
•Flowmaster 80 Series Muffler
•83 Trans Am 15x7 Turbo Fin Wheels
•B.F.Goodrich Radial T/A 225/60-15
•Chevy 2.8L Heddman Headers (Going on soon)
http://www.geocities.com/fiream/RobsCarArtPa.html?994187591828
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...item=594170526
------------------
Chevy 2.8L 60° V6
Mods:
•K&N Filter Lid
•87 Formula Hood
•Bosch Platinum +4
•Hi-Flo CatCo CAT
•Flowmaster 80 Series Muffler
•83 Trans Am 15x7 Turbo Fin Wheels
•B.F.Goodrich Radial T/A 225/60-15
•Chevy 2.8L Heddman Headers (Going on soon)
http://www.geocities.com/fiream/RobsCarArtPa.html?994187591828
08-14-2001, 07:32 PM
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Tom has it pretty much 100%
Let me add a few details.
Use a Chevy Small Block Distributor gasket, it don't leak! Use Black RTV on both sides.
At the base of the gear is the roll pin, Punch it out slightly, remove by fingers.
Slip everything apart.
I use sand paper and brake cleaner to clean polish shaft of the distb. I then use axle grease to relube the shaft.
The coil is easy in & out and as Tom mentioned, those fingers bend.
You can adjust by eye, finger feel and sound.
Use diaelectric grease for reassemble, under the weights. Same grease under the modular, too.
CHECK OUT YOUR COIL, I bought a new one from Kragen, $36. It's Accel, the 140011 (YES TOM, I got lucky, It cured, in my instance, lots of computer & engine run on problems (so far!). I also like Accel parts, too.
Pretty much if ya rebuild the whole thing and use new stuff, the distb. is one very happy part. Then check out condition of the timing chain. Put a wrench on the crank, twist crank back and forth. See how long it takes to move distb. That shows ya condition of the timing chain. New plug wires can't hurt, either. Maybe they are still available for under $10 from some vendor someone here will know.
IF ya have trouble putting back on hold down.
Got get a longer bolt, and matching nut. Chop off head of the long bolt, slip distb. into engine, slip headless bolt on the block, then do the nut after the hold down. It may be easier.
Very rewarding project.
Here's the place to get CHEAP AC DELCO PARTS FROM
800-995-0296
Ask for Saul, tell him Karl with the 1968 Camaro sent ya & you want the cheapest prices on new AC DElco parts.
Saul is in Van Nuys, CA KayAuto Parts.
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
Let me add a few details.
Use a Chevy Small Block Distributor gasket, it don't leak! Use Black RTV on both sides.
At the base of the gear is the roll pin, Punch it out slightly, remove by fingers.
Slip everything apart.
I use sand paper and brake cleaner to clean polish shaft of the distb. I then use axle grease to relube the shaft.
The coil is easy in & out and as Tom mentioned, those fingers bend.
You can adjust by eye, finger feel and sound.
Use diaelectric grease for reassemble, under the weights. Same grease under the modular, too.
CHECK OUT YOUR COIL, I bought a new one from Kragen, $36. It's Accel, the 140011 (YES TOM, I got lucky, It cured, in my instance, lots of computer & engine run on problems (so far!). I also like Accel parts, too.
Pretty much if ya rebuild the whole thing and use new stuff, the distb. is one very happy part. Then check out condition of the timing chain. Put a wrench on the crank, twist crank back and forth. See how long it takes to move distb. That shows ya condition of the timing chain. New plug wires can't hurt, either. Maybe they are still available for under $10 from some vendor someone here will know.
IF ya have trouble putting back on hold down.
Got get a longer bolt, and matching nut. Chop off head of the long bolt, slip distb. into engine, slip headless bolt on the block, then do the nut after the hold down. It may be easier.
Very rewarding project.
Here's the place to get CHEAP AC DELCO PARTS FROM
800-995-0296
Ask for Saul, tell him Karl with the 1968 Camaro sent ya & you want the cheapest prices on new AC DElco parts.
Saul is in Van Nuys, CA KayAuto Parts.
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
08-15-2001, 10:29 AM
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Oh yeah; the spark coil incident! I forgot about that. That supercoil of yours must've been toast; glad to hear a new one fixed the problems.
And yep, there's still some Crane Firewire spark plug wires on closeout! They have the 8.0mm black wires, for the 90-92 3.1 Camaro (really covers all 85-92 F-bodies; 2.8 AND 3.1), for $8.00. In fact, they've now got a 10% off coupon!
To find the wires, go to http://www.cranecams.com . At the main page, on the left bar, click on "performance store". At the store, scroll all the way down the page for the "factory closeout on spark plug wires"; click it. Find "Chevrolet" in the list... then choose the 90-92 Camaro.
Like I said, that set will work for all 85-92 Camaro/Firebird 2.8/3.1 cars; so if you missed out on the earlier sets, get these quick! They only have 7 left...
Oh and
I have to say it: The factory distributor seal is a "one inch inside diameter" O-ring. Any "real" parts store should be able to get you one; you can even find them in Pep Boys. At PB, they're in the metal drawers in the hardware isle... some drawers are labeled "brake hardware", "carb return springs", "wheel studs"- there should be one marked "o-rings". I bought a pack of 5 "one inch inside diameter" o-rings for $1.20... I'm set for life!
Also, a new "stock" spark module costs the same as an aftermarket performance module. By "stock" module, I mean either AC/Delco, or Borg-Warner, or Standard, or etc... those cost about $60- same as a Holley module or Accel module. The Holley module you want is part #891-103. The website is http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...A/891-103.html . At http://www.summitracing.com , they call it part # HLY-891-103, and sell it for $60.
We actually have a review on it! "Bub" helped us out by giving us a writeup on the Holley module. The message is here: https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/001869.html By the way- it's the same spark module the V8's use. In fact, the stock AC/Delco module is used for both V6 and V8 "external dual-connector spark coil" distributors. (The V8's recieved external coils later than the V6's... V6's got them in '85.)
Let us know how the rebuild goes!
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
And yep, there's still some Crane Firewire spark plug wires on closeout! They have the 8.0mm black wires, for the 90-92 3.1 Camaro (really covers all 85-92 F-bodies; 2.8 AND 3.1), for $8.00. In fact, they've now got a 10% off coupon!
To find the wires, go to http://www.cranecams.com . At the main page, on the left bar, click on "performance store". At the store, scroll all the way down the page for the "factory closeout on spark plug wires"; click it. Find "Chevrolet" in the list... then choose the 90-92 Camaro.
Like I said, that set will work for all 85-92 Camaro/Firebird 2.8/3.1 cars; so if you missed out on the earlier sets, get these quick! They only have 7 left...
Oh and
I have to say it: The factory distributor seal is a "one inch inside diameter" O-ring. Any "real" parts store should be able to get you one; you can even find them in Pep Boys. At PB, they're in the metal drawers in the hardware isle... some drawers are labeled "brake hardware", "carb return springs", "wheel studs"- there should be one marked "o-rings". I bought a pack of 5 "one inch inside diameter" o-rings for $1.20... I'm set for life! Also, a new "stock" spark module costs the same as an aftermarket performance module. By "stock" module, I mean either AC/Delco, or Borg-Warner, or Standard, or etc... those cost about $60- same as a Holley module or Accel module. The Holley module you want is part #891-103. The website is http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...A/891-103.html . At http://www.summitracing.com , they call it part # HLY-891-103, and sell it for $60.
We actually have a review on it! "Bub" helped us out by giving us a writeup on the Holley module. The message is here: https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/001869.html By the way- it's the same spark module the V8's use. In fact, the stock AC/Delco module is used for both V6 and V8 "external dual-connector spark coil" distributors. (The V8's recieved external coils later than the V6's... V6's got them in '85.)
Let us know how the rebuild goes!
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
08-15-2001, 03:11 PM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I will definetly let you guys know how the rebuild goes. I will most likely try this weekend, but I did order a set of the Firewires. I have been looking for 8mm wires for a while, but now close to me caries them for the 3.1L.
All though I should proboly attend to my EGR valve first. The other morning I was driving to work and the SES light came on. I shut the enginge off at the next light and waiting 10 seconds before starting it again and the light whent off. When I got into to work I check the trouble code and it came up as error 32.
This has happened a couple of times in the past 2-3 months, but the SES light all ways goes off once I restart the enginge. The funny thing is that there hasn't been any reduction in proformance. So I will most likely deal with it at a later date closer to when I have to do the smog test.
I was looking through the Haynes manule and noticed that they only show replacing the Ignition module and the secondary pickup coil. If doing that and cleaning up the rusty shaft is all there is to doing the rebuild it's cake and I will defintly do it myself. The only problem that I can see with doing the rebuild is seeing the darn bolts that hold it in. Some engineer thought it would be funny to hide the distrib wegded in between the intake and cowl in the dead center of the engine compartment.
Well once I successfully complete this I thiuk I will be ready to takle the timing chain. My RS has about 154,000 miles on it and never had the timing chain replaced. The previous owner never took that good care of the car and I have been slowly bringing back up to snuff and building it up.
In the Haynes manule they show that AC, Altinator, waterpump, ETC, have to be removed to replace the chain, but it looks like there is enough room to pull it with doing all of this. Has anyone ever done this with out remove every external componet known to man?
Thanks!!!
All though I should proboly attend to my EGR valve first. The other morning I was driving to work and the SES light came on. I shut the enginge off at the next light and waiting 10 seconds before starting it again and the light whent off. When I got into to work I check the trouble code and it came up as error 32.
This has happened a couple of times in the past 2-3 months, but the SES light all ways goes off once I restart the enginge. The funny thing is that there hasn't been any reduction in proformance. So I will most likely deal with it at a later date closer to when I have to do the smog test.
I was looking through the Haynes manule and noticed that they only show replacing the Ignition module and the secondary pickup coil. If doing that and cleaning up the rusty shaft is all there is to doing the rebuild it's cake and I will defintly do it myself. The only problem that I can see with doing the rebuild is seeing the darn bolts that hold it in. Some engineer thought it would be funny to hide the distrib wegded in between the intake and cowl in the dead center of the engine compartment.
Well once I successfully complete this I thiuk I will be ready to takle the timing chain. My RS has about 154,000 miles on it and never had the timing chain replaced. The previous owner never took that good care of the car and I have been slowly bringing back up to snuff and building it up.
In the Haynes manule they show that AC, Altinator, waterpump, ETC, have to be removed to replace the chain, but it looks like there is enough room to pull it with doing all of this. Has anyone ever done this with out remove every external componet known to man?
Thanks!!!
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08-15-2001, 03:40 PM
#8
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Hey Tom, I plan on return the 140008 unit to where it belongs my S-10 Blazer. Like I said, in my instance, this way the correct solution. WHO KNOWS if between my 1985 set up and your 1986, ......but, this other coil works well, SO FAR!!
Remove the distributor.
IF YA DON't all those wonderful 5.5 metric bolts get lost in never to be found again land. Remove it, so much wiser and your engine pays off, better running in the long run.
Chain, remove what ya need. You need to remove the water pump (go get a new one, extra $19 or so) and what ever ya need to remove for the water pump, you remove for the chain.
Call 800-831-0884 Northern Auto Parts for the water pump, gasket (fel pro) and chain, speed pro. Your bill will be about $65 total.
Miss Modesto alot. Still have American Graffitti Cruise night up there?
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
Remove the distributor.
IF YA DON't all those wonderful 5.5 metric bolts get lost in never to be found again land. Remove it, so much wiser and your engine pays off, better running in the long run.
Chain, remove what ya need. You need to remove the water pump (go get a new one, extra $19 or so) and what ever ya need to remove for the water pump, you remove for the chain.
Call 800-831-0884 Northern Auto Parts for the water pump, gasket (fel pro) and chain, speed pro. Your bill will be about $65 total.
Miss Modesto alot. Still have American Graffitti Cruise night up there?
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
08-15-2001, 10:55 PM
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Oh yea they still have Graffiti night here. I've grown to love this place. All though it is easy to get into trouble here. The street lights on Yosemite are spacd just far enough a part that it makes them perfect for small drag race. I got out of San Jose while I still could. Cost of living in the Sillycon Valley is stupid at best. All most 2K a month for a one bedroom apartment.
I'm going to see if I can find all the parts localy. I hate having to wait for delivery. Too much anticipation! The chain will have to wait a week or so. I don't want to bite of more then I can chew in one weekend.
I'm going to see if I can find all the parts localy. I hate having to wait for delivery. Too much anticipation! The chain will have to wait a week or so. I don't want to bite of more then I can chew in one weekend.
08-16-2001, 12:08 AM
#10
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Just to say..i attempted the dist rebuild on my old one when it went...it was more of a headache than i wanted... i just went to autozone and bought one...
------------------
1989 Firebird
2.8 is coming out and in its place a 305 t5 with a cam and rockers.. Will hopefully start as soon as my drumset (financing) is sold!
"I'd rather run last in a full out race, than to NOT have run at all"
#3 Forever
My Site:
Click Here to see my car!
------------------
1989 Firebird
2.8 is coming out and in its place a 305 t5 with a cam and rockers.. Will hopefully start as soon as my drumset (financing) is sold!
"I'd rather run last in a full out race, than to NOT have run at all"
#3 Forever
My Site:
Click Here to see my car!
08-16-2001, 01:02 AM
#11
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Car: 1999 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LS1 - 346 ci
Transmission: 4L60E
to get to the dist. hold down bolt, get a socket wrench, 1 regular extension (i dunno 3" somethin like that) a universal joint and i think a 15mm socket. that'll work 4 ya.
------------------
Stock 2.8 MPFI auto w/ Flowmaster 80 Series, More to come......
New Pioneer Head Unit
Targa E-910 7-Band Equalizer w/ crossover
2x 10" Pioneer subs powered by 300 Watt Jensen amp
2- 6x9" Pioneer (rear)
More to come..... (hey, i dont got a job yet)
------------------
Stock 2.8 MPFI auto w/ Flowmaster 80 Series, More to come......
New Pioneer Head Unit
Targa E-910 7-Band Equalizer w/ crossover
2x 10" Pioneer subs powered by 300 Watt Jensen amp
2- 6x9" Pioneer (rear)
More to come..... (hey, i dont got a job yet)
08-20-2001, 12:31 AM
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ok guys the distrib rebuild is done!!!
Every thing went cool. Man there was a lot of rust. I spent more time scrubing then I did pulling and reinstalling the darn thing. I replace the ignition module with Holey one, Nice!!! The pick up coil was a snap. it looks like I restored a little bit of the snap the car used to have. It responds a little faster and pulls just a little harder. Over all I happy I did. Much easier then I thought.
Total time was 2 1/2 hours. about 15 min ensuring I pulled it off right and another 15 min. to make sure I put it back the correct way. The rest was mostly scraping rust of the poor thing. I'm surpirsed it still with all that junk on it.
I was going to replace my coil with the Accell Super Coil, but no one around carys it so I had to order it will be in 1 -2 days. I ended up ordering the holey ignition module from Summit. Man I'm impressed. I ordered it friday at 3:30pm and it arrived on Saturday at 11:00am. I even chose the free ground shipping. Now thats service!!!
Well thanks for all the advice guys!!! I really glad I ended up rebuilding it, becuase it sure did cost a lot less the buying a new one.
Every thing went cool. Man there was a lot of rust. I spent more time scrubing then I did pulling and reinstalling the darn thing. I replace the ignition module with Holey one, Nice!!! The pick up coil was a snap. it looks like I restored a little bit of the snap the car used to have. It responds a little faster and pulls just a little harder. Over all I happy I did. Much easier then I thought.
Total time was 2 1/2 hours. about 15 min ensuring I pulled it off right and another 15 min. to make sure I put it back the correct way. The rest was mostly scraping rust of the poor thing. I'm surpirsed it still with all that junk on it.
I was going to replace my coil with the Accell Super Coil, but no one around carys it so I had to order it will be in 1 -2 days. I ended up ordering the holey ignition module from Summit. Man I'm impressed. I ordered it friday at 3:30pm and it arrived on Saturday at 11:00am. I even chose the free ground shipping. Now thats service!!!
Well thanks for all the advice guys!!! I really glad I ended up rebuilding it, becuase it sure did cost a lot less the buying a new one.
08-20-2001, 09:01 AM
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Way cool.
Don't cha wish all projects surprised you that way?
Easy to do, big fear factor, came out just right!
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
Don't cha wish all projects surprised you that way?
Easy to do, big fear factor, came out just right!
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
08-20-2001, 10:10 AM
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
You're welcome! I'm glad the job went easy; that way I don't feel stupid. One of these days I'll have to move to the Holley module...
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
One of these days I'll have to move to the Holley module...------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
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