Looking to Buy an Accel Ignition Coil from Someone here
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Looking to Buy an Accel Ignition Coil from Someone here
I finally solved why my car has engine run on.
Accel told me I should not have been using the 140008 coil for my car.
I should have used the 140011 coil.
Well, before I pass $36 (for a new one +tax) to Kragen out here,
I'm asking.
Anyone have a 140011 Accel Coil left over that they want to sell?
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
Accel told me I should not have been using the 140008 coil for my car.
I should have used the 140011 coil.
Well, before I pass $36 (for a new one +tax) to Kragen out here,
I'm asking.
Anyone have a 140011 Accel Coil left over that they want to sell?
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
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Hi Brian.
I hear you on that option.
I myself have had superb success with Accel stuff for over 20 years. Not into changing brands after that many years of success.
And actually, what I did, was remove that whole bracketry that holds the coil over the passenger side. Easier for plug access, now, too.
Cleaned up that area, alot.
I have my "wrong" coil mounted on the firewall, at the distributor cap area.
It's protected from moisture by the covering of the air ventilation into the interior.
And it's shielded from the exceess heat of the exhaust.
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
I hear you on that option.
I myself have had superb success with Accel stuff for over 20 years. Not into changing brands after that many years of success.
And actually, what I did, was remove that whole bracketry that holds the coil over the passenger side. Easier for plug access, now, too.
Cleaned up that area, alot.
I have my "wrong" coil mounted on the firewall, at the distributor cap area.
It's protected from moisture by the covering of the air ventilation into the interior.
And it's shielded from the exceess heat of the exhaust.
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Don't believe 'em, Ked. #140008 is what I ran for 4 years, and I had no run-on problem. It's meant for external coil'd HEI distributors. I had my coil mounted between my alternator and throttle body; a much more vibration-prone (and maybe heat-prone, from the radiator's heat) location than yours.
Granted, the 140011 is supposed to put out 6,000 more volts than the 140008, but it shouldn't cause run-on.
I just changed to the Blaster SS coil because I had the MSD 6Al, and MSD wires - I figured I'd keep it all in the family
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
Granted, the 140011 is supposed to put out 6,000 more volts than the 140008, but it shouldn't cause run-on.
I just changed to the Blaster SS coil because I had the MSD 6Al, and MSD wires - I figured I'd keep it all in the family
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
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Hi Tom,
Here's why I do believe them.
I have engine run on.
It has been a problem, before I swapped the engine. And after, too.
This problem started AFTER, I had complete ignition failure.
I have replaced the steering column ignition switch.
I used my 140008 unit in my ignition rebuild and that's when the car started to have the run-on problem.
I really wish I could believe I have a problem elsewhere. BUT,
According to the tech person he hit my problem right on the head.
My computer is acting goofy when ever I shut down the car (by pulling the coil wire, with a string/shoelace).
The fuel pump continues to run, even with the key shut off.
My fan goes to constant on, when I sometimes start engine.
By shutting off the car, immediatly (I hear the fan kick-in at start up), and restarting, the fan operates properly (when the temp causes it to go on).
The tech guy mentioned those symptoms, too.
I was told that it is the 140011 internals that prevent my problem for my specific usage application.
I do not feel like obtaining another ECM to prevent what happened before (an internal fry spot on the ECM circuit board).
I also tried the solution from MSD (a resistor on the wire from the alternator to prevent a trace energy signal to the distributor) to prevent engine run-on.
That didn't help.
Only way yo make the car act noraml, is to diconnect the battery for about 1/2. Then all problems cease, until it goes into the engine run-on cycle. And then, I repeat the sequence to shut down the car & computer (shut off key, pull coil wire, disconnect positive battery cable, 1/2 hour).
Hoping someone may have a left over one and I can give them the bucks.
I'm gonna order one this weekend, if no luck here.
Doesn't our 3rd Gen forum have a parts for sale spot?
MSD one goes for over $50.
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
Here's why I do believe them.
I have engine run on.
It has been a problem, before I swapped the engine. And after, too.
This problem started AFTER, I had complete ignition failure.
I have replaced the steering column ignition switch.
I used my 140008 unit in my ignition rebuild and that's when the car started to have the run-on problem.
I really wish I could believe I have a problem elsewhere. BUT,
According to the tech person he hit my problem right on the head.
My computer is acting goofy when ever I shut down the car (by pulling the coil wire, with a string/shoelace).
The fuel pump continues to run, even with the key shut off.
My fan goes to constant on, when I sometimes start engine.
By shutting off the car, immediatly (I hear the fan kick-in at start up), and restarting, the fan operates properly (when the temp causes it to go on).
The tech guy mentioned those symptoms, too.
I was told that it is the 140011 internals that prevent my problem for my specific usage application.
I do not feel like obtaining another ECM to prevent what happened before (an internal fry spot on the ECM circuit board).
I also tried the solution from MSD (a resistor on the wire from the alternator to prevent a trace energy signal to the distributor) to prevent engine run-on.
That didn't help.
Only way yo make the car act noraml, is to diconnect the battery for about 1/2. Then all problems cease, until it goes into the engine run-on cycle. And then, I repeat the sequence to shut down the car & computer (shut off key, pull coil wire, disconnect positive battery cable, 1/2 hour).
Hoping someone may have a left over one and I can give them the bucks.
I'm gonna order one this weekend, if no luck here.
Doesn't our 3rd Gen forum have a parts for sale spot?
MSD one goes for over $50.
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Well dude, I suppose it's possible your coil melted or shorted internally, but-
Why would I have had NO run-on problem for the 4 years I had the coil?
The coil is CORRECT for the application.
If it wasn't, why would Accel include a plug-in harness with it? Answer- they wouldn't have. All external dual-connector GM coils are computer HEI. If the coil was incompatible, they wouldn't have included the plug-in connector for GM.
It's cheaper, that's why Accel wants you to buy their next step up. It makes no sense that I was fine for 4 years and you're not. You should just put a stock coil on and see what happens. Did you ever ground the #140008 coil? I've rebuilt my whole ignition system (twice), and both times, have used the same coil you did.
But either way, of course, good luck with it.
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
Why would I have had NO run-on problem for the 4 years I had the coil?
The coil is CORRECT for the application.
If it wasn't, why would Accel include a plug-in harness with it? Answer- they wouldn't have. All external dual-connector GM coils are computer HEI. If the coil was incompatible, they wouldn't have included the plug-in connector for GM.
It's cheaper, that's why Accel wants you to buy their next step up. It makes no sense that I was fine for 4 years and you're not. You should just put a stock coil on and see what happens. Did you ever ground the #140008 coil? I've rebuilt my whole ignition system (twice), and both times, have used the same coil you did.
But either way, of course, good luck with it.
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
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#8
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by KED85:
I really wish I could believe I have a problem elsewhere. BUT,
According to the tech person he hit my problem right on the head.
My computer is acting goofy when ever I shut down the car (by pulling the coil wire, with a string/shoelace).
The fuel pump continues to run, even with the key shut off.
My fan goes to constant on, when I sometimes start engine.
By shutting off the car, immediatly (I hear the fan kick-in at start up), and restarting, the fan operates properly (when the temp causes it to go on).
The tech guy mentioned those symptoms, too.
I was told that it is the 140011 internals that prevent my problem for my specific usage application.
</font>
I really wish I could believe I have a problem elsewhere. BUT,
According to the tech person he hit my problem right on the head.
My computer is acting goofy when ever I shut down the car (by pulling the coil wire, with a string/shoelace).
The fuel pump continues to run, even with the key shut off.
My fan goes to constant on, when I sometimes start engine.
By shutting off the car, immediatly (I hear the fan kick-in at start up), and restarting, the fan operates properly (when the temp causes it to go on).
The tech guy mentioned those symptoms, too.
I was told that it is the 140011 internals that prevent my problem for my specific usage application.
</font>
The fuel pump could stay on for a few seconds because of the "backup" oil pressure safety switch. When oil pressure is present, the fuel pump relay is bypassed- this would prevent you from dying on the road when the pump relay fails. When the car's shut off, the oil pressure switch is still closed until oil pressure drops low (I believe < 7 psi). But I don't see why the fuel pump would stay on; it seems impossible.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">I do not feel like obtaining another ECM to prevent what happened before (an internal fry spot on the ECM circuit board).
</font>
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Only way yo make the car act noraml, is to diconnect the battery for about 1/2. Then all problems cease, until it goes into the engine run-on cycle. And then, I repeat the sequence to shut down the car & computer (shut off key, pull coil wire, disconnect positive battery cable, 1/2 hour).
</font>
</font>
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
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Hi Tom,
Here's what's happeneing. I used this coil on my 1985 S-10 Blazer which also has a dual connection for the coil.
Yet, I have no computer on that car at all. NONE.
The cost between the two is so minimal (140008 & 140011)
NOW why your car for four years, etc.
I wish I was that lucky.
First time I saw the car after run on, it was smoking & boiling over & etc. (my Wife drove it, parked it, called me in a panic. I leisurly drive over (about 25 minutes later), the car looked like it was possessed
Why yours and mine, you have a different year, that's about all I can say.
BUT, if this works (other coil) I have cheap fix.
And a car I can let my Wife drive.
Gotta try it. The computer problem is related. IF ya look for my year, the commputer does go thru the distributor for many "things" and I'll have to leave it like that answer.
The cost between a factory coil & the 140011 is 6 of one, half dozen of the other.
Plus, I can mount the accel anywhere I kinda want to.
I did destroy the factory coil mount set up, as I had no need to use it again.
Kinda wish I hadn't, now, but,....
I do have easier access for plug changes there!
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
Here's what's happeneing. I used this coil on my 1985 S-10 Blazer which also has a dual connection for the coil.
Yet, I have no computer on that car at all. NONE.
The cost between the two is so minimal (140008 & 140011)
NOW why your car for four years, etc.
I wish I was that lucky.
First time I saw the car after run on, it was smoking & boiling over & etc. (my Wife drove it, parked it, called me in a panic. I leisurly drive over (about 25 minutes later), the car looked like it was possessed
Why yours and mine, you have a different year, that's about all I can say.
BUT, if this works (other coil) I have cheap fix.
And a car I can let my Wife drive.
Gotta try it. The computer problem is related. IF ya look for my year, the commputer does go thru the distributor for many "things" and I'll have to leave it like that answer.
The cost between a factory coil & the 140011 is 6 of one, half dozen of the other.
Plus, I can mount the accel anywhere I kinda want to.
I did destroy the factory coil mount set up, as I had no need to use it again.
Kinda wish I hadn't, now, but,....
I do have easier access for plug changes there!
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
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