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locked up/partial stripped torx

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Old 06-24-2001, 05:27 PM
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locked up/partial stripped torx

while changing the water pump on my 89 2.8l v6 i get down to the last one and it was real tuff. sprayed wd40 on it and let it sit. still real tuff. sprayed rust eater on it and let it sit. still real tuff. put torx bit in and hammered on it a few times. still real tuff. started to strip. tried vise grips but in a real tight area with on good clearence. tried above proceedures over a 2 hour time period. this sucks. have no air tools for extra power. please help with any suggestions.
Old 06-24-2001, 09:54 PM
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Here's how ya do it.
Don't laugh. Someone else showed me.
Know what ya do?
Take a hack saw and cut the waterpump at that area, so you can apply vise grips and get that bolt out.
You are wasting your effort. Get the hack saw and start cutting away the waterpump. Oh, It's aluminum, cuts easy.
If ya can't cut, go get a file and cut into the aluminum to get to that area, also. May need a jewelers file and LOT OF PATIENCE!
Want to tow it to a mechanic for that one bolt?
I thought so!!
You can do this, lots of patience is the key.

NEXT TIME, break FREE EVERY BOLT, NOT ONE AT A TIME. You put extra tension on bolts which also helps prevent the last one from backing out easy!
I learned that one, too!
It is steel rusted into the cast iron engine by the water from the pump. Common.
When you reassemble, go get new bolts (as many as needed). Put film of oil on threads (FILM NOT MORE) thread each bolt in & out before you reassmble.
Then wipe off grease on the bolt hole, wipe face of parts with brake cleaner, wipe off with paper towel (you'll see it clean, if not do again!), then apply gasket material & gasket sealer, Let it cure for about 10 minutes. Reassemble, firm tightening all around in a circle.
Let it sit overnight.
Assemble with the NEW HOSES next day. CHECK CHECK CHECK ALL CLAMPS.
(I didn't, lost my first engine as the bottom hose burst off the radiator, I didn't tighten enough).

BEFORE YOU GO MUCH FURTHER. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR BALANCER & TIMING CHAIN FOR WEAR. If ya have over 75,000 mile on the engine & it's never been replaced, I'd DO IT NOW!.
You are already 2/3 way to that part of the mission (chain behind the timing cover, you have now exposed).
Chain & gasket is $50-ish delivered.
Fel Pro & Speed Pro parts.
800-831-0884 Northern Auto Parts.
This is long answer, but worthwhile information.
Especially if ya plan on keeping the car for a bit longer. Your car will be so happy & so will gas milage, it'll go up!

------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
Old 06-24-2001, 10:16 PM
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holy piles!!!! i never thought of that. i will give it a try. thanks for the info, much appreciated. rock on thirdgen.org
Old 06-25-2001, 11:22 AM
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I'd have to disagree with putting the oil on the bolts; some of those bolts go through water jackets, and you need to coat the threads with a sealant. I've always used blue RTV in-a-tube, but I hear the proper stuff is the teflon "PST" compound.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
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