Ok about a year ago my car wouldn't turn over I traced it down to find that the key just wasn't getting power to the solenoid so I just put a push-button start on it works fine. Then a couple months later I lost all power to the ignition so I traced it down to a blown fusible link fixed it ran fine. Well a couple weeks ago I lost power again to the ignition and I can't find the problem I've checked all the fusible links I can find and they still have power. I had power to the radio when I turned the key backwards then I replaced the electronic ignition on the column and now nothing works I would consider hot wiring the car but can't figure out how to do it right. Thanks in advance.

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1987 Firebird 2.8 more show than go. Still turns over 10' tires though.

 

Anyone please

 

So, when you turn the key from "off" to "on", even your radio/power windows/blinkers/etc doesn't work? Sounds like a fuse, or you put the ignition switch in wrong. Where did you check for the fuseable links? There's some by the starter, and some at the positive junction block, which is located on the passenger side of the radiator support. Trace your alternator's power wire (red, on the back of the alternator) towards the front of the car, and you'll find the junction block.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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I didn't have any power before replacing the electronic ignition. I had accessory with the key turned backwards but now i don't i've put the old ignition back on it and still nothing

 

Hm; I'm not that familar with the ignition switch wiring, but it does sound like a bad wire somewhere. I'll see if I can get you some wires to test when I get home later.

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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Thanks any help would be appreciated I hate to see my bird go to waste just sitting there

 

I believe somehow you bent the rod that goes from the ignition key rack to the starter item on the base of the column.
Or else your rack is busted.
Rebuild kits go for about $35.
OR else, you ignition switch adjustment is off.

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

What about losing power before replacing the ignition switch

 

This is out of the electrical diagrams of my '86 GM service manual... I'd imagine nothing changed for 1987.

The ignition switch looks like it has 6 wires... the diagram wasn't too clear. It seemed to show two connectors, a C1 and C2. C1 had wires B3 (red) and I3 (orange and brown/white). C2 had wires A (brown), B2 (red), I1 (pink), and S (yellow).

The red wires of the ignition switch, C1/B3 and C2/B2, are the only power wires to the switch. They get power from the fuseable link "B", above the starter solenoid. This is the only way the ignition switch gets power.

I traced the wires and found an "easy" way to check fuseable link "B". It also supplies power to the high-speed blower (heater fan) relay. You know that one; it's a few inches to the driver's side of the blower motor. If you unplug the connector to this high speed relay, you can connect a voltmeter (or test light) between it and ground. The wire you want from the high speed relay connector is terminal "D", which is the only red wire at the high speed relay. So hook a voltmeter between that red wire (+) and ground (-).. if it swings, at least you know the fuseable link is fine.

Now, that red wire from the fuseable link "B" goes thru the firewall at C100 (firewall pass-thru connector), and winds up at splice S200. Splice S200 is inside the dash somewhere; the pictures weren't exact, but it looks like on the driver's side, between the steering column and the heater vent. It would be hidden inside the taped harness- a big pain in the butt to find!

After that splice, the red wire splits 4 ways. 1st & 2nd way go to the ignition switch.

3rd way goes back through the firewall (thru C100, pin A1) to go to the headlight motors. When this 3rd branch comes near the headlight motors, on the front driver's side of the car, it meets up with two more fuseable links, and then goes to the headlight motors.

The 4th way goes to the fuse block. It supplies the constant +12 to the PWR ACC breaker (silver rectangle in fuse box) and the STOP/HAZ fuse.

I'm telling you about the branches, because they can help you do the testing. Say fuseable link B tests okay at the heater's high-speed-relay. Next, you could use a voltmeter/test light to make sure the STOP/HAZ and PWR ACC fuses are getting power. (Or you could just put on the hazards!) Next, you could check to see if the fuseable links (I forget the letters, were they G & H?) for the headlight motors have power.

So, say you get +12 at the blower relay, but don't get +12 at the hazards OR the headlight motors' fuseable links. This would tell you that there's a problem in the wiring between the fuseable link (by the starter) and splice S200 (in the dash).

Say you get +12 at the blower relay, +12 at the hazards, and nothing at the headlight motors. This would probably mean splice S200 itself is bad. See what I mean?

If it turns out that the wire connecting fuseable link "B" to splice S200 is bad, you might want to just run a new one instead of trying to hunt down the fix for the old one. Running a new wire is an "approved" ASE-certified-mechanic approach.

It could be too that splice S200 (or the wire between it and the fuseable link B) is shorting out somewhere, blowing the link. In that case you could just run a new wire between the two, and cut the old one out, instead of tracing down the short.

If you decide to do a "test" wire between fuseable link "B" and splice S200, put a fuse on it somewhere. That way if there is a short, you'll pop the fuse on your test wire and not set your car on fire.

I probably made this out to be a lot more than it is, but I wanted to give you a bunch of points to get a reading at. I know I certainly wouldn't want to hunt down splice S200- but if you've done that ignition switch twice already, you must have more patience than I do!

Let us all know what you find!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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Oh- I forgot about this- you might find it helpful if you think the ignition switch itself is bad. It's a list of all the fuse circuits that get +12V power when the ignition switch is at different positions:

ACCESSORY: Wipers, Radio

RUN: TURN B/U, ECM IGN, GAGES, INJ 1, INJ 2, Wipers, Radio, F/P CLTR, Window circuit breaker, HTR A/C, C/H FAN

START: TURN B/U, ECM IGN, GAGES, INJ 1, INJ 2


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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Thanks a lot i'll try this all out tonight and let you know what happens.