I just finished my timing gear and water pump change, after i put it all back together the car started just fine and had it running in the garage for couple minutes, then had to fix a leaking hose, started again fine, ran few minutes just fine. Now she doesn't want to start, engines turning, battery is fully charged. Worked fine before repair, just water pump was leaking..

 

Is your fuel pump turning on? It may be completely unrelated to the timing chain. If you say it ran fine the first few time's you started it then it could possibly be something else.

 

Fuel pumps turning, fuel pressure is checking alright, no codes, don't have anybody around right now to check spark. I was thinking that maybe some of the coolant got into some electrical connections maybe and is shorting it out..don't know, or something mechanical happened to the stuff i replaced

 

What fuel pressure PSI are you getting? (everyone always says its OK but they never give a number)

 

Well, I got about 35 PSI, thats the pressure I was getting from my gauge always when the car ran fine. When I had it actually at a shop once they got higher PSI than my cheap gauge..

 

Yeah, you should be getting 42 PSI, key-on/engine-off... at 35 PSI it wouldn't be running well at all (and may not even start).

 

What I was trying to say is that my gauge shows 35 but at the same time when I had it in a shop their gauge was showing over 40 PSI so thats why I think the pressure is fine..and I did a major tune up couple months ago - fuel injection, filter, distributor, ecm, .....pump was replaced 2 years ago, so I thought maybe something with the timing gear I replaced or coolant somewhere, don't know

 

just found out that I am not getting any spark..

could that have anything to do with the timing chain replacement? even though it started twice after the job and ran for about 20 min till i shut it off

I replaced distributor, ignition coil, plugs, wires, ECM recently along with bunch of other stuff so that should be alright, I hope

 

It could have to do with the timing chain. The chain drives the cam which then drives the distributor. Remove the distributor cap and hold it aside with string/wire/ty-wrap.

While watching the rotor crank the engine. The rotor should spin while cranking. If not, then either the timing set came apart or the cam cracked in half.

Most of the time when there is no spark, it is the ignition module and/or the pick up coil.

Second to most of the time is a bad coil. Which can also take out the ignition module.

RBob.

 

Allright, I took my ignition module to the store for a check (checked good) and after I put it back the engine started. I think there is a problem in the wiring, either in the wires coming out from the ignition coil or those connected to the ignition module. I think so because when I took her for a ride and stopped, I couldn't get her started so I wiggled with those wires and it worked fine. I just don't know which one it is so any recommendations on how to find out/fix would be appreciated, thanks.

 

I was just going to mention you should check the wires that plug into the ignition module. Even with them being routed close to the spark plug wires can cause a problem. It is a fairly common problem with these wires. Look for breaks in them or skinned insulation etc.

 

Hard to tell, do they sell replacement in advance auto or similar store or do I have replace the wires using the old plugs?

 

No the plug wires can cause inductance in the ignition module signal wires causing problems with getting it to fire properly. To check the wires just use a digital volt/ohm meter and put one probe on one end and the other on the other end and do a resistance and continuity check. Make sure you unplug the ECM or the current from your DVOM could damage it. Does not happen all the time but the possibility is there. You need to take the plug off the ECM anyway to test the connection.

 

I found that the isnulation on the white wire going from ignition module to ignition coil is skinned a the wire stripped a bit - could that be the problem? If so, do I just fix the wire or should I get new wiring harness/ where ? It does also seem that the car starts better after sitting over night..

 

Reconnected the stripped wire using a butt connecter and el. tape. Starts fine when cold but after she runs for 15-20 minutes almost impossible to start her again. Engine just cranks and cranks. I think it doesn't throw a spark - going to check that tonight if enough time.

 

Sounds like it's time for a new ignition module. Mine did a similar thing. Ran fine cold, but once it got warm, no spark. Get a new module and make sure you use the heat sync grease that comes with it. Get a good coating on the module and clean off the mounting surface in the dizzy.

 

I installed a new dizzy ( from Napa) couple months ago that came with new module, that would suck. I had it checked too at advance auto, but I don't trust it that much. I think I just try to clean the surface and throw some extra grease first in there.

 

That would suck! Was there a decent amount of grease on it when you removed it to have it checked?

 

I don't recall which company it is, but I am pretty sure that napa, advance, or autzone has a replacement wire/connector for ICM to IC, also, you did put di-electric silicone on the underside of the ICM when you put it on right? if not it will overheat and cause problems.