FireInMe17

My friend is buying a 1991 Camaro RS 3.1L Auto this weekend who plans to rip out the current drivetrain.....and sell it to me!

I'm buying a whole working/running engine transmission with computer and wiring harness for $300.

What should I do with it?! I wanted to take it all apart and clean everything up, port/polish the heads and the intake/plenums the whole nine yards and then put those parts on my engine in hopes of letting it breath better to get better MPG's and more power, but I'm curious what you guys think I should do with it all.

Its a great deal, I told my friend though that I would pay half the price of the price of the car for the entire drivetrain minus everything after the transmission, and hes getting the whole car for $600 in hopes of putting a small block and one of the 5 speeds hes got sitting around.

I'm so excited!

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

If it were me, and I were getting a whole spare powertrain, I'd do a hybrid build on it and save the money I would be wasting on P&Ping the iron boat anchor heads to get them flowing better but still less than the newer aluminum ones. And I'd continue to run the car the way it is until the hybrid is ready to be put in. The rest of your plan is fine (throw a full gasket set, camshaft, water pump, and new bearings/rings in there), but I would definitely save the money you would be wasting on the iron heads for the 3x00 setup.

FireInMe17

I know I can find the info elsewhere but what heads can I use? What all do ai basically need to make a good compatable hybrid set up?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

94+ anything but a J-body has the setup, but the best, I guess, is 2000+. Keep the accessory brackets with the 3.1 and bolt them to the heads by enlarging the holes, unless you want to use a manual belt tension setup. Keep the 3x00 injectors on the rail or send them to be cleaned and then put them back. If you don't want to fuss with measuring pushrods, I used a set from a non-roller cam 3100 (94/95), but you will need pushrod guides off of your existing heads, which will need to be modified to work. You will probably want to get headers, or you will end up slotting the bolt holes on your exhaust manifolds, which are actually too small for the exhaust ports in the heads (along with any headers except the RK Sport 3.4 headers if you want to cough up the money and have exhaust custom made). You will need to put on a trigger wheel for the distributorless ignition. If you have the money, I'd recommend you send the block to a shop to have the boss on the driver's side under the starter drilled out for the 7x sensor, and then you can use a 3.4 timing cover and damper for the 24x sensor. You'll also need to pick up the oil pump drive that replaces the distributor in the back of the engine.
As for the computer, going MegaSquirt may save a bunch of tuning headaches, but it's about the same price either way (MS kit or tuning stuff). And it will be easier seeing as how your car already has a MAP sensor.

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

You could probably get away with the 3.1 pistons as well if you deshroud the valves. I cc'd mine after deshrouding and '98 3400 heads measured 30cc's with 3500 valves. With .04 gaskets that would get you a useable cr of 12:1 with the right cam. You could convert it to a roller cam too, but it takes some fabrication most people might not want to do. I was considering doing the same with the pile of parts left over from the 2.8 I never got rid of.