BTW what was the casting # for those heads on that 3400?

 

No. I need 4" for 500+ HP. Will it clear under the car was my question if I dump it before the axle. I'll check the v8 section I guess. haha



^ requires 4" exhuast... haha.

I got a steal of a deal on Mototron 60# injectors, with a 55psi regulator I should be alright for fuel for a while. Pretty sure I'm going with tubular headers now as well.

My 3400 heads were the old type with the 10mm rocker studs. I didn't touch them at all.

 

Here's how I did my setup. I used a angle grinder to make the whole crank trigger flat...I ground off the back part that stuck out.





Sorry for the darkness of the last pic, my garage is pretty dark today...but you can see the difference that getting rid of that back nub made. And I put spacers behind the other pulleys/brackets to make them all line up.

 

That'll do.

I welded the wheel to the back of a ASP underdrive pulley. It was easy to lign up and weld.

No shimming out any accesories and no modding the CPS.

Pretty happy about how it turned out.

 

I did 4" cat back on my camaro. its tight, but it fits.

 

Hey Mars, just make sure you mark the orientation of the DIS wheel lol, wouldn't want to have to move that thing three extra times until you figured out why it wasn't firing properly :P

 

I made sure of everything. haha

My heads went out today for cleaning / assembly. Just waiting for graphite head gaskets and ARP studs to show up then i can put the motor together and toss it in the car to make new mounts and turbo plumbing.

 

Got started on the exhaust...



I decided to ditch the manifolds and make shorties.

1-5/8" primaris with WOT tech D shaped flanges, cone Engineering 3-1 collectors with the merge bullets (not pictured).

 

I approve.

 

Ok So, progress, new motor is built :

ARP head studs, GM Graphite head gaskets, ported heads (my own job noghtin crazy) Comp valve springs, WOT tech street strip turbo cam with custom pushrods.

60# Mototron injectors, installed.



Custom throttle cable braket and ARP underdrive pulley with TCE crank trigger. Custom adapter plate to Olds. 65mm TB.





Sick ign. module custom install. I didn't know the 3500 was a different mount... Lame.



Another shot (NOTE ARP head studs)



Frank Castle would approve :



That is all for now.

Should be in the car in a week or so. Then afterwards it's exhaust and dual 38mm gates and re-doing the hotside exhaust and hopefully construct the 4" exhaust.

 

All the work you did I'm surprised you didn't refinish the block o.O

 

I've never been one to really care what it looks like.... long as it runs.

 

I can understand the mentality, just looks funny cause everything else is either new or rebuilt/refreshed.

 

You won't see the dirty block @ 100MPH haha.

I guess I could wire wheel it and then hit it with BBQ paint in a can (brush it on). Hmm, yeah maybe I'll do something like that.

The corrosion / scale on that block is NUTS though. i think it sat out in the yard for a while... They shrinkwrap the motors, but still this one's nasty.

 

I hope the cylinders are rust free, I have my old block out in the yard and the cylinders are rusting a bit now, rest of it started rusting a while ago, mind you this block is cracked and no good.

 

Leave him alone! The dude is in CAN and has a 5-6yr old block in his 88

You have our Grassroots thinking, Mars Loving it.

 

Ooo that manifold & throttle looks familiar. Aside from the punisher skull. You seriously need to dust off that block!

3rd Gen RS did you finally get your car repainted? Looks good in the sig.

 

Okay, I am subscribing.

I love all the stuff you have done, and I am gonna jack a lot of it for my 3800 projects!!

Good work Mars!

I do think you should paint the block, though...

Thanks!

 

Lol, no, not yet, I put a glass hood on it, I still have mechanical issues I'm working on, things that cropped up during the 2 weeks I had it on the road then it died on me, 98% sure the fuel pump went out, already bought one just waiting for it to arrive. I do need to do something with it though because the trouble spots i put rust converter on are starting to come back and rust through the primer again /sigh.

 

Come to think of it though, I have about $100 I've been trying to figure out what I could spend to get something nice for myself, I think I'll spend that on some paint, I will have the car blasted by a shop and paint it myself, my grandmother has a sprayer she got to paint her house one year, its probably not automotive quailty, but better than rattle can by far, and probably can do a better job than a $300 shop job.

 

3800 is a tough cookie. Took 70 hrs to get 40% gain in head flow and still doesn't touch the 3500 (we got 230cfm at .550" with them boat anchors).

Yeah Mars get's the job done. Your adapter only looks cooler haha.

HVLP is HVLP. Rust came through because you didn't eradicate it well enough.

 

John, do you think the 3800 stuff makes so much more immediate torq than 60*'s because of the cam/manifold design or the longer rods/stroke? I was looking at 6" rods and offset grinding for the forged crank I bought from you. Although I suppose I won't need it after it's turbocharged!

 

Bit more progress, I have to re-do the motor mount pads cause the 3400 and 3500 blocks are different.

Pics of the new ones...



Problem, umm, well it only uses 3 bolt holes. it's 1/4 plate steel so it's strong as all hell, I'll box it in or something to make it sturdy.

Old 3400 one uses 4 bolt holes like so (there's only 3 holes on the 3.5L block) :



Otherside was easy as pie :



And, cause I was bored and mocking up the pass side turbo header, i got a pic of the motor with the new turbo. perfect size I have a real good idea of what I'm going to do for the pass side header now.



I'll try to keep the turbo in that location cause my charge pipes and oil drain is already mint. But I'll be adding two 38mm external gates for the twinscroll housing. (they should be in next week)

Motor is going in the car on Monday night.

 

I'm aware, I can't really take care of the rust short of media blasting it, if I sand it down by hand it will take forever and and dig into the metal and make it not flat, problem is I have not had the resources to paint it do to the plethora of other problems I've had to deal with, even once the fuel pump is in I have to fix about another $500 worth of things to make it reliable.

 

look into "Miracle Paint" for the block. It is designed to stick to rust and prevent it from spreading. For me, it works as advertised on sheetmetal. I just don't know if it can handle heat.

 

Well, not THAT tough! There are plenty of supercharged 3800s out there that are kicking butt and taking names hehehehhe. I was more talking about how the crank sensor is fab'd on and the custom exhaust and turbo mountings.

I am in the process of modifying some other Buick V6 engines and I like all the hand made stuff that I am seeing. It is answering a few of the questions that are coming up as I look at things.

Keep it up guys!

 

So, I think I got lucky today.... I was at the local Canadian Tire (glorified Canadian Walmart) to buy some exhaust pipe...

Came across this little beauty.

http://www.autospareparts.net/detail...exhausttip.htm

Bought it and and in the process of making a little something something. It was like 11$ and is 16 gauge...





Chopped it, and am in the process of forming it to fit. I can't believe it will actually work and it was only 11 bones. HAHA

It's built in the merge collector fashion as well. Should work damn well.

 

Isn't it sad how Canadian Tire has change from a hardware/sporting/automotive store to a department store? :?

Good find though.... It's always fun to use products for purposes not (directly) intended.

 

Mail today, dual gates. 38mm EMUSA Tial knockoffs, I haven't seen a single bad review on these and they are C.H.E.A.P.



With the help of a few buddies, we go the engine in :



AC Delete heater box installed to free up some room :



That's all for now. I think I'm going to take a little week or 2 brake from working on it. I'm way ahead of schedule. I have the loom the wiring it looks like crap as well. In time.

 

Sweet man! You have an excuse to finish early.

 

And you still didn't paint that rusty block. I'm guessing it's somewhat of a joke? Putting the money into a v6 many people dismiss as worthless and still leaving it ugly.

I like it.

 

Again about the block I thought we were over that ?

The plan is to PUSH this 3500 to the limits, I doubt it'll last long.

Meth injection, 60# injectors and a turbo that can make 750HP all day long, not looking good for my engine at all, so when I put another 3500 in maybe I'll paint that one. (not likely though)

 

forged crank, I'm assuming you put in forged pistons, forged rods(I'm assuming the 3x00s have forged rods since the gen 1 blocks do), 60/6 is a stout engine, as long as its tuned right and you aren't running it at high revs all day long it should last a while.

 

Actually I will predict a spun rod bearing before anything else failing, providing a good tune - and Mars is on top of that based on his past projects.

The 3500 has powder forged rods with snapped/sheered rod caps, which in turn, make it so the "anti-rotation" slots for the bearings have to be machined when the rod is assembled, resulting with the tangs both on the same side of the rod/cap. The early 660 rods are forged and have opposing anti-rotation tangs, but much lesser quality than the 3500 rods. the 3500 rods are STOUT (there are 36 of them, plus a few more full rotating assemblies/blocks here in my shop), but the rods have that machining flaw in order to make them so nice. As long as there's minimal/no detonation and the motor is kept under 6500rpm, it will last a good while, but there's no reason this motor won't handle well over 500hp.

 

The motor is stock save the cam, springs and head porting.

I don't have a cage in the car, so 11.49 is the cutoff. I want to first see how much boost I need to get me to that goal.

I figure when i ran that 8.0 I was near 400HP that was at around 11 psi and a stock 3400.

The 3500 should make a healthy 20 HP more and with the cam, say an extra 80 - 90 HP more total.

So, still at 11 psi, I think It'll be damn close to being in the 11's. Then, add a few more PSI and I should acheive my goal of 11.49.

I think this cam will pull past 6500though. I was going to set the limiter at 7200...

 

Don't go past 7k on a stock 3500, Dave spun a bearing N/A at those RPM's, trust me, the newer bearing design doesn't like it, and I have examined plenty of 3500's closely with varying mileage and wouldn't trust those bearings.

Went high 12.9@113 with a built 3400/3500 (WOT stage2 turbo cam, SD HG's with studs) breathing a tiny .68/.50 Garrett t3/t4 in a Corsica I built the turbo kit for, full street trim, 17" rims, stereo system etc etc with a 2.0 60'. We never got to get a full dyno-graph it since the 3 speed trans guts spilled all over the rollers @ just over 350whp ~4krpm or so at 12psi. No reason you shouldn't be in the 11's with a good launch and that turbo with slightly more air going through and that same pressure.

EDIT: Found the slip and his car ran an 8.42 1/8th @ 85.6mph, you WILL see 11's without a doubt in my mind. PLZ don't rev it past 6800 until you are ready to aslpode it

 

I wouldn't run that much boost on stock cast pistons, unless you already have a perfect tune, but even then I wouldn't..

 

I did. And I spun it to 8k.

So what's different about the 3500 bearings?

 

I just changed fuel cut to 6826 - resume 6791.

So that guy also had the stage II boost cam ? It must have sucked with that small a turbo, no? I'm real curious to see what it will feel like. How was the top end with that car ? I bet it was weak cause of the turbo. I think mine will just be waking up at 5000 RPM...

 

Good deal.

It was Ben's old stage II turbo cam, my upper porting, my turbo kit, rest was bought at WOT. Maybe I can dig up some video, but dropping the go stick at 25mph, it's hard to stay straight and tires lit up. He's parting it out now, so sad

Recently sold my TT setup, but am pondering what to do with the 'bird...still sitting with low miles and looking all pretty with no heart.

 

What where the specs on the old Stage II cam I wonder ?

Dropping the hammer on my cavalier at 25MPH it'll blow the tires away and go 100% straight (even if you're trying to turn) haha good old lincoln locker.

I wish you lived close by cause I'd sure take that car off your hands...

 

It can be shipped lol. We have cars shipped in/out, but within the US. Got <$500 from VA.

Don't know if you would pay asking price

89k miles on chassis Dana Aussie rear (went 11's in the T/A it's pirated from), interior is 9 out of 10, 700r4 has 89k miles. Have all Moog stock replacement rubber etc. Only rust is the stupid screws for the hatch Those things always rust.

Last wax...

 

it's hard telling what caused my bearing failure but i spun it past 7K hundreds of times after replacing that one rod and swapping in my spare crank and 53K mile bearings.

In the first 2 seasons the engine had less than 2K miles on it total.

 

Mustangs have the same rod design and same high-RPM issue. So you are 50/50, risk worth it?

 

Bit of progress....

I cut up my old 3400 mounts and re-worked them to fit the new motor. Not too bad I guess. I painted them up with rust paint.

Pass side mount :



Driver's side mount (oil filter can BARELY be swapped out, but it does come out) :



Engine :



Still a ton of work left...

Need to fab up an idler pulley to wrap the water pump a bit tighter, turbo placement, turbo header for pass side, Walbro 255 install got a bunch of stuff to clean up in the interior, gauge pod install, EBC, ect...

It's coming along though, I can see the light.

Ordered a meth injection kit as well the other night.

 

T4 turbo merge collector flange thingy :



Braket to support weight of turbo (about the best weld you can get with a MIG PAK10 flux core.) haha :



IT FITS :

 

Now I'm jealous, if only I had some cash for an m90 and the other stuff I need for it...

 

That looks gimonsterous.

I like it!

 

So what's the lifespan of this motor going to be?

 

few days....