I put a new motor in it from a 89 firebird.
I was back firing and I just a new coil and plug on it and was doing better.
I bought a timing light and the timing was at 20 degrees. I droped it to 8 degrees and it ran a little better. It was harder to get the car started I would have to give it a little gas. I decided to move it back up to 12 degrees. It was still hard to get it started just a little gas and about 4 to 5 secs it will start. It would have a alot of power " no backfiring at all when cold" after 4 mins of warming up it will have less power and a lack of power. Do I need to unplug something when setting timing or wat do you guys think? It doesn't overheat either or no engine lights.

 

2.8's should be set at 10 degrees btdc for timing.

 

Run the engine and get it to operating temp then shut it off and unplug the tan/black wire over by the blower and restart the car and adjust the timing to 10* and lock the distributor down and shut the car off and plug the wire back together and start the car and have fun .

 

im having the same problem with my 2.8 RS. i start it, let it warm up and when driving it lacks that power it needs. i changed spark plugs. wire set. distributor cap and rotar. Oil is good. Transmission fluid is new, Coolant is new. New O2 sensor and catalytic converter. My timing is off and wnt stay at 10 degrees because The mechanic said my distributor is shot.

 

accident post

 

If it jumps time when you try to set it at 10* BTDC, it's not the distributor, it's the ignition module. That's why I tossed the module I bought the car with.

I'd recommend to both of you that you remove your MAF sensors and take a look at the film inside. If it's not completely flat, you need to replace it. But, do this only after you tell what color the engine tips of the spark plugs are. If my guess is correct, they're black. There could be other things, but that's where I would start.

 

but your 100% sure its the Control Module - Ignition and not the distributor???

because i looked up about the ignition module and none of the symptoms of a ignition module apply to my car.

 

The ignition module is PART of the distributor... That big black thing bolted to the base, under the cap, that the 6 wires connect to from the harness.

 

Okay, I unplugged a tan wire but couldn't find the black/tan wire. I found the tan wire coming from the coil? I don't know where that tan/black wire over by the blower is. I timing it to 10 degrees with unplugging the tan wire didn't seem to have any more power. It still feels like its was back firing. I also got my cat to be looked out and it was knocked all out before. I also put new plugs end and gaped them to 45 degrees.

 

It should come out of the harness by the blower . It is a single weatherpack connector with a tan wire with a black stripe .

 

Yep, it still has a whole lot of lack of power. When the car was cold, it was running alot better then it every did. Once it warmed up it was running alot worse I was wide open throttle and it was going 0-35 in about 10-15 secs. When its cold giving a little of gas will go to 0-35 in few secs. I was thinking maybe computer?

 

It's going to be weak until you get the timing squared away. The ignition control bypass connector SHOULD be in the harness somewhere between the blower motor and the ignition coil. The wire coming straight off of the coil that has the connector in it is WHITE and is for the tachometer in the dash. You're looking for the tan/black wire coming from the 4-wire connector at the ignition module in the base of the dizzy. It has a connector similar to the one for the oxygen sensor. The one for the tach is shaped differently as it is a different connector.

If you still can't find it, get a vacuum gauge. Connect the gauge to the vacuum tee in the back of the plenum, where the brake booster attaches (on the small port, not the booster port). Start the engine, and turn the dizzy slowly until you hit about 18" of manifold vacuum. That will be close enough.

 

I found that cable, it moved my timing about 30 degrees. I adjusted it to 10 and it seems to work great now. I have so much low in torque now I can burn the tires.

 

Good to hear you got it .

 

hi i have a 1989 camaro 2.8 v6 with the same problem i place new spark cables msd thinking it will work better but has the same problem i altrady time it at 10 btdc
works well with low pedal press but as soon as i press the pedal to the end it kind of vivrates when rpms are goin up as soon as it grts to 3000 it works normal but when it shift up at low rpms starts to work bad as they get to 3000 then works well

 

Couple things come to mind here:
1. Weak spark coming from worn coil or cap/rotor
2. Check the MAF sensor film for warping
3. Check the fuel pressure. Sounds almost like a car we used to have that the FPR was stuck on and the fuel pressure was MAXED OUT. This thing used so much gas it threw carbon chunks out of the tail pipe. Also check for a leaking pressure regulator.