mars061

Damn you with your 1.8 !

haha

I tried my 2 step today, same results as your first one, burns the tires after 2500 RPM .

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

all were high 99's which is still bothering me, the old car was always between 105 and 108.. it was a 5 speed though.

2 step was useless today too, my crappy rear drums just don't hold well enough.

project89

iTrader: (1)

drums hold better then discs , get a set of s10 wheel cyls for the rear drums, they have a larger bore and apply more force to the brake shoes

the wheel cyls push the shoes out from the top so really only 45-55% of the shore really hits the drum untill they get worn in a bit.

if u use the ebrake coupled with the foot brake u are sure to get 100% of the brake shoe locked against the drum, it also applies even more force to the shoes since the shoes are now being pushed out from the top and bottom.

like i just said in mars thread using the ebrake with the foot brake on my car i can go wot and build full boost without the tires spinning at all .

the only exception is if i brake stand in the burnout box this heats up the rear shoes and then they dont hold anywere as good

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

hmm, that's a thought for sure.. did you disable the latch on the E brake? Or just hold in the button and pull back at the line?


rear pads and wheel cyls are brand new, wish i had known about the S10 stuff before.. maybe that's a project for this winter.

AM91Camaro_RS

just food for thought....on the race car (oval track car), with individual front/rear master cylinders, you run the smaller bore for the front brakes and the larger bore master cylinder for the rear brakes. thats for more front brake bias. never quite figured it out but I guess the smaller bore creates more pressure? would this be the same principle for the rear brake cylinders?? just throwing it out there? ideas? the master cylinder thing always seemed backwards to me but that was the right way to do it.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

I did swap the spring in the MC to give a little more bias to the rear brakes, you can feel the difference in every day driving.


Going through the videos now, seems like my LSD has about had it. Didn't have any traction problems though. The slicks had about 15 lbs in them and stuck like glue.

project89

iTrader: (1)

i hold the button but u coulddisbale it and it would make it alot easier
i left mine intact so it would still function on the street if i needed to park the car and use the ebrake

my routine is this roll threw the water spin the tires a lil bit so i dont kick water up in the wheel wells then i rol out of the water and footbrake the car with the ebrake to build boost then i drop the ebrake and footbrake to do the burnout while rolling twards the staging beams

this way i never have the brakes applied while the rears are spinning

once i stage i press onthe footbrake as hard as i can and with my right arm i pull up the ebrake and go wot ( u may have to slowly press the gas from idle to wot to avoid a bog) once the lights come down i at the same time release the footbrake and ebrake to launch

be aware it takes some practice to get the timming of releasing the ebrake and footbrake at the same time

but once u get it down its juts like having a transbrake

on the question of the wheel cyls the larger bore applies more force , the smale bore applies less force but gives a much more responcive feel since the pistons move out faster due to less fluid having to be displaced

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

Not bad for a V6.. lol

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

Finally found the 75mm throttle body I've been hunting for (stock LS1/5.3 truck TB). It's pretty much the mirror opposite of the Northstar TB that i was using back in the FWD days. Fits the adapter fine though.

The engine looks so weird w/o the ITB's on it...




Still need to lengthen the TPS wires and figure out what i'm going to do about the TV cable. I used the '00 Chevy truck throttle cable, seems to fit perfect although i haven't checked the throw yet to make sure it goes WOT.


More to come...

Fallen2603

Still looks good. Just...different.

Is the inlet neck on the UIM bored out to 75mm all the way? Where did you get the adapter to the 75mm TB? I've only heard of an adapter to a 65mm TB...

Oh, and since you're not using those ITB's anymore, can I have 'em? LOL! J/K...

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

Yep, neck is hogged out;




I bought it from WOT-Tech about 3 or 4 years ago, I think you can still get the same one directly from TCE these days. It was sold for the gen 4 plenums to use a N* TB.. works on the gen 3 3500 too and i think the 3400 Equinox plenum.


The ITB's aren't going anywhere for now, I still want to find an old Model A to put this engine in.. and they'll just look sweet on there.

Fallen2603

I'm assuming you mean this:

http://www.tcemotorsports.com/index....mart&Itemid=26

Would that work on a 3400 UIM inlet? Only the Equinox 3400 UIM inlet? Just curious...

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

Yep, that's it.. works on the 3500 for sure, and should work on the equinox but i can't confirm that you can port the equinox that far.

won't work on a 3400 plenum though, different bolt pattern.


Got some more work done tonight;

Had to slightly bend the upper arm on the gas pedal to get enough throw to open the LS TB 100%, I guess this is common in LS1 swaps as well. Fabbed up a bracket to mount the TV cable and made/welded a new arm to the bell crank on the TB, should all be within spec as far as movement goes. Just need to make a JY run for some small stuff and it should be back on the road this weekend.

Fallen2603

Cool. Thanks for the information, man.

Always waiting to see more of this project.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

All buttoned up, fired it up today and boy is it pissed. Lots of tuning ahead



It's so much quieter with the UIM on there, I'll post new pics tomorrow with the intake and all the final modifications to get it working.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

Crappy vid from the track, racing another 3rd gen with a stock 5.3 swap. iirc i beat him by .2, same MPH.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

As you can see in the pictures i ended up mounting the TCE 75mm adapter sideways. This was the only way i could get the correct angle and throw with the 700R4's TV cable on the LS TB.

I had to weld a new arm to the bell crank and measure everything out per Art Carr's article here: http://www.cpttransmission.com/tech_tvcable.htm






Still have some tuning issues to work out (hard starts and stalling during Cell 0 to 1 transition) but overall it runs pretty good.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

You guys win... killed the trans today at the track.

I think i may have broken the output shaft... The best part is is have it on video. I'll post it later on, looks like it would have been a good launch too.

project89

iTrader: (1)

more then likley u broke the sunshell or sprag , output shaft doesnt typically break. the 27 spline input shaft on the other hand can be broken

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

the datalog shows that i hit 37 MPH, but the video shows that i only moved a little bit (inches).

I was thinking that if i broke the output shaft between the VSS and the driveshaft this could be possible.

I guess the other possibility is that i shredded the rear end but the car rolls fine, it was in Park when we pushed it up on to the tow dolly (which by the way SUCKS).

i'm going to go pull the driveshaft off and check it out tonight, i'm getting too curious.

AM91Camaro_RS

was that the first run?

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

3rd but the first 2 i was testing the shift cable, finally got it right and decided to make a good run.

Update is that the trans is fine, it's the rear end that's toast...

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

is/was that a gov lock type rear?

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Wicked.

More parts sacrificed to the speed gods.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

Whatever was stock in an '88 IROC, a local shop swapped that diff and some new 3.73's into my original rear.

Here it was before..



and a shaky video..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J23aw...ature=youtu.be

project89

iTrader: (1)

thats not a factory unit im not sure what it is

is the r&p ok? if so weld whats left of the spiders to the sides of the case and run it till u break the r&p

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

yeah, doesn't look like a stock case to me either...not a govlock though.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

yah, R&P look ok but i need to check them out a little better.


I guess it's pretty much trashed anyways, and i do own a Lincoln welder.

project89

iTrader: (1)

word of advice if u weld it do it with the carrie in the car and the axles slid into place.

if u weld it on the bench the spider gears will pull and it will be very hard to get the axles back in. having them in place stops the spider gears from pulling and keeps them inline

just weld both spiders to the case on the sides the other 2 spider gears that go on the pin u can throw away if u want just reinstall the center pin so the c-clips cant pop out

project89

iTrader: (1)

yeah its not an eaton or auburn either as far as i can tell, more then likley its a china knockoff, prolly why the spider gears broke instead of the r&p

edit
just look how small the spider gears on the cross shaft would of had to of been to fit between the side gears deffinatly the weak link in whatever that posi unit is

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

you mean there is supposed to be spider gears on the top and bottom too? (kidding)





https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...tify-diff.html

Maybe it was swapped at some point into the seller's car, he was pretty sure it was original.


If the modern 10 bolt diff's are stronger than this one i may just toss in a 4th gen rear end, there are a few at the local yards.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

4th gen rears are wider, keep that in mind if you are close to the 1/4's with your wheel fitment.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

the slicks tuck but are pretty close, they're on 16" rims though so it wouldn't be a big deal to put them on some 4th gen wheels.


Might go check the yards this week for another 3rd gen rear, i saw a few that looked promising the last time i was out. Even a '90 IROC, need to check the RPO sticker though. 3.42 would be a step back.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

Well, 5 months later we took the tarp off and pushed it back into the garage. It's nice and dirty... lol



I tossed the battery back in, loaded a good bin file to the Ostrich and it fired up first try.

This morning I spent about 5 hours on the road to go pick up a new rear end from a TGO member. It's a disk brake rear, looks to have upgraded axles and an Eaton diff (still waiting on a posiitive ID). 4.10 Richmond gears.



I hope to have it installed this week, still debating on some LCA relocation brackets but we'll see..

I predict sweet burnouts and hopefully better 60' times this year.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

lca relocation brackets shouldn't even be a debate...put them on

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Did you have a different file loaded to your Ostrich?

I've never needed to reload the bin after the winter to mine.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

Yah, I was trying to use my '7730 last fall to run my flow bench with a differential pressure sensor and a 1 bar MAP.

Ended up with that Arduino project that we talked about a while back. Works good now.


Edit, just ordered the Founders LCA relocation brackets.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

G0d Bless Founders Performance...they're pricing is what's getting most of us budget guys into quality suspension pieces! i've used their upper panhard rod relocation kit on my car, and lca's/panhard on another car. i'm planning to use their strut mounts on my car, and get my little bro to do the lca's/panhard on his car.

glad to see it out of winter storage, and i'm looking forward to seeing how you do this season!

Dale

iTrader: (12)

I would have saved the money on the LCA's. They didnt seem to help me one bit. But then I dont drag it, and when I launch hard I do it intentionally to spin the tires.

mars061

Here is a tip :

Don't use them crappy Delco - Moraine rear disks.

Bolt on your Drum stuff...

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

they suck that bad?

mars061

Do a search...

seems when brand new they hardly stop the wheels from turning if you have the brakes applied in drive with the rear end off the ground.

How were your drums after you did the spring mod ? Do they stall up on the converter alright ??

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

drums were pretty good, it's been a while but i think i was getting it up over 3K RPM before the rears wouldn't hold.

I was using both the foot and parking brake to hold it back when i broke the old diff. I won't be doing that anymore.. lol


I bet someone would buy a complete rear disk setup.. i need to pull the axles anyway to check the spline count, good time to switch stuff over.

caffeine

iTrader: (2)

Can also upgrade to PBR discs. LT1 discs are pretty much identical to the 89+ PBRs and the rotors are larger than the stock fronts.

The e-brake setup with the PBRs sucks though.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

Spent the afternoon swapping in the new rear end, all that's left is to bleed the brakes and get the new diff cover installed.. then fill it up.

the LCARBs are installed, that went smooth other than having to take the die grinder to the lower holes where the shock bolt goes through. I took out maybe 2mm, just enough so the bolt would pass through.


The E-Brake gave me the most problems, my adjuster was rusted to hell. I ended up taking the whole cable out, sandblasting the threads clean and then reinstalling.

I left the disk brakes on it, didn't feel like re-drilling the drum backing plates for the 4 bolt pattern. That's always an option if it's too much of a problem.

mars061

Oh you have the bolt in LCARBS. I have some weld on ones, I was going to weld them on while the axle was out, but apparently, some people have welded them in the wrong place before, so, I'll make sure that can't happen and weld the on when the axle is installed.

I am trying out the shitty rear disks also, hopefully they work. I've heard (read) of people using front calipers on the rear, of course no longer have an ebrake, but they are supposed to hold ALOT better.

caffeine

iTrader: (2)

If you have a 10-bolt it should be pretty cheap to pick up an LT1 rear disc setup. I'm happy with the stock PBR discs so far except the e-brake sucks.

How much does this car weigh? I just weighed mine today and it came to 1360 kg without me (2998 lbs approx.). Pretty much all interior in the car except the rear seats and the rear carpet.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

Should be around 2700 w/o me but i need to get it on a better set of scales. It's a shell.


I bought the bolt-ons so i could get all aligned just right, eventually i'll grind off the powdercoating and weld them on. Plus i got shiny new bolts.



I did break one bolt on the removal, drivers side panhard. It's probably never been out. lol

mars061

Got my rear axle in with new delco-moarine calipers, and they seem to be pretty strong. Ebrake is all adjusted as well.

I have the spring you sent me in the prop. valve so that may have helped with the rears as well.

I guess we'll see if it can hold a decent stall.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

Sweet!


My TA diff cover came today but w/o bolts.. and of course the ones i picked up at the hardware store were too long.

I'll get it worked out tomorrow, bleed the brakes and hopefully be able to take it for a spin.