V6 wont start
#51
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Re: V6 wont start
Fuel problem is in the supply side (between the pump and the fuel rail). Has the pump been replaced recently, or at all, that you know of? If not, then, like I said before, it probably needs it as it could have a bad pressure check valve among other problems. If the pump has been replaced recently, the hose or line between the pump outlet and the fuel pipe on the sender could be damaged and leaking.
The fuel pressure should hold, without losing even 1 PSI of fuel pressure, for 20 minutes after the pump shuts off (GM spec).
The fuel pressure should hold, without losing even 1 PSI of fuel pressure, for 20 minutes after the pump shuts off (GM spec).
I will look for the leaks again tomorrow, but as I looked before I haven't seen any.
Anyways could any of that cause my stall/run crappy rich condition ?
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Re: V6 wont start
When I had a similar problem with my old firebird I sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body and it started right up and i could rev it up just fine but as soon as the starter fluid was burned up and it was running from the fuel pump it would start to run like crap. Ended up being the fuel pump.
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Re: V6 wont start
If the pump is leaking where I think it is, you won't see it. The leak is INSIDE the gas tank, between the top of the sending unit and the pump itself. You might want to either replace the pump again or have it replaced by a shop that actually uses new parts, because now you know it may or may not have been new when you had it "replaced".
As for the rich condition, we'll get there, but we need a constant fuel pressure between 37-47 PSI first. Also, have you tested the resistance of the coolant temp sensor?
As for the rich condition, we'll get there, but we need a constant fuel pressure between 37-47 PSI first. Also, have you tested the resistance of the coolant temp sensor?
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Re: V6 wont start
If the pump is leaking where I think it is, you won't see it. The leak is INSIDE the gas tank, between the top of the sending unit and the pump itself. You might want to either replace the pump again or have it replaced by a shop that actually uses new parts, because now you know it may or may not have been new when you had it "replaced".
As for the rich condition, we'll get there, but we need a constant fuel pressure between 37-47 PSI first. Also, have you tested the resistance of the coolant temp sensor?
As for the rich condition, we'll get there, but we need a constant fuel pressure between 37-47 PSI first. Also, have you tested the resistance of the coolant temp sensor?
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Re: V6 wont start
As long as the injectors have the o-rings, it doesn't matter. Just make sure to get the pieces out of the engine . The pintle caps only protect the pintle at the end of the injector and help hold the o-ring in place. At least 4 of my 2.8 injectors were missing their caps and the engine still ran (crappy, but ran).
If you're looking for injectors, there are a couple people on here who do reconditioning and sell new ones for WAY below what stores want ($160/set opposed to $40-90 a piece). SouthBay and fuelinjectorconnection.com, eBay as an absolute last resort if you can't afford anything else. Heck, you're almost better off going to a junkyard and getting 2 sets.
If you're looking for injectors, there are a couple people on here who do reconditioning and sell new ones for WAY below what stores want ($160/set opposed to $40-90 a piece). SouthBay and fuelinjectorconnection.com, eBay as an absolute last resort if you can't afford anything else. Heck, you're almost better off going to a junkyard and getting 2 sets.
Last edited by Maverick H1L; 03-29-2010 at 05:03 PM.
#56
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Re: V6 wont start
As long as the injectors have the o-rings, it doesn't matter. Just make sure to get the pieces out of the engine . The pintle caps only protect the pintle at the end of the injector and help hold the o-ring in place. At least 4 of my 2.8 injectors were missing their caps and the engine still ran (crappy, but ran).
If you're looking for injectors, there are a couple people on here who do reconditioning and sell new ones for WAY below what stores want ($160/set opposed to $40-90 a piece). SouthBay and fuelinjectorconnection.com, eBay as an absolute last resort if you can't afford anything else. Heck, you're almost better off going to a junkyard and getting 2 sets.
If you're looking for injectors, there are a couple people on here who do reconditioning and sell new ones for WAY below what stores want ($160/set opposed to $40-90 a piece). SouthBay and fuelinjectorconnection.com, eBay as an absolute last resort if you can't afford anything else. Heck, you're almost better off going to a junkyard and getting 2 sets.
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Re: V6 wont start
As long as the injectors have the o-rings, it doesn't matter. Just make sure to get the pieces out of the engine . The pintle caps only protect the pintle at the end of the injector and help hold the o-ring in place. At least 4 of my 2.8 injectors were missing their caps and the engine still ran (crappy, but ran).
If you're looking for injectors, there are a couple people on here who do reconditioning and sell new ones for WAY below what stores want ($160/set opposed to $40-90 a piece). SouthBay and fuelinjectorconnection.com, eBay as an absolute last resort if you can't afford anything else. Heck, you're almost better off going to a junkyard and getting 2 sets.
If you're looking for injectors, there are a couple people on here who do reconditioning and sell new ones for WAY below what stores want ($160/set opposed to $40-90 a piece). SouthBay and fuelinjectorconnection.com, eBay as an absolute last resort if you can't afford anything else. Heck, you're almost better off going to a junkyard and getting 2 sets.
Last edited by kubinusa; 03-31-2010 at 09:36 PM.
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Re: V6 wont start
i wouldnt buy online, unless its from a store that is know from alot of people
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Re: V6 wont start
14.7 and 15.4 lb injectors are stock. Those 24 pounders you posted in the link above will flood the engine in seconds without something like a turbocharger...
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Re: V6 wont start
So 15lb flowmatched bosch injectors from southbay allright you think? See I never done this before so I don't have a clue..
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Re: V6 wont start
As long as those injectors you order are NOT the Multitec II injectors or equivalent, as those won't work right and may fry internally shortly after installation due to a design and control revision (pulse width modulated vs peak and hold or something like that).
#63
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Re: V6 wont start
these are bosch II generation 4 spray injectors, are those worth to get?
#65
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Re: V6 wont start
That's what they said, they didn't even want to buy my old ones, because they're multitecs, they said they don't want to sell that product to people.. . Well thanks anyways for help, I hope this is going to make my car running finally
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Re: V6 wont start
After I installed the new injectors the fuel pressure dropped from 43 to 35 PSI and I again can't get the engine started..
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Re: V6 wont start
I saw a video on youtube or something not too long ago where someone was flow testing a set of brand new injectors for a Beemer and at least one of them had a leak. Pull the rail out to where you can see it and pressurize the fuel system to check for a leaking injector. Also make sure all of the o-rings on the rail ends of the injectors haven't been cut upon installation and that the fuel pressure regulator screws are tight.
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Re: V6 wont start
I saw a video on youtube or something not too long ago where someone was flow testing a set of brand new injectors for a Beemer and at least one of them had a leak. Pull the rail out to where you can see it and pressurize the fuel system to check for a leaking injector. Also make sure all of the o-rings on the rail ends of the injectors haven't been cut upon installation and that the fuel pressure regulator screws are tight.
I was wondering about the fuel pressure decrease after replacing the injectors..can get her started but it's the same as before, really poor and stalls after a bit
Last edited by kubinusa; 04-13-2010 at 01:27 PM.
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Re: V6 wont start
You shouldn't worry about the CSI... the fuel feed tube does bend. I've bent mine far enough to squeak the lower plenum out from under the rail before.
You're probably better off undoing the CSI tube and removing the CSI from the intake as well to check that for a leak. I know mine opens for 8 seconds after I turn the key on. Yours could be stuck open and flooding the engine.
You're probably better off undoing the CSI tube and removing the CSI from the intake as well to check that for a leak. I know mine opens for 8 seconds after I turn the key on. Yours could be stuck open and flooding the engine.
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Re: V6 wont start
You shouldn't worry about the CSI... the fuel feed tube does bend. I've bent mine far enough to squeak the lower plenum out from under the rail before.
You're probably better off undoing the CSI tube and removing the CSI from the intake as well to check that for a leak. I know mine opens for 8 seconds after I turn the key on. Yours could be stuck open and flooding the engine.
You're probably better off undoing the CSI tube and removing the CSI from the intake as well to check that for a leak. I know mine opens for 8 seconds after I turn the key on. Yours could be stuck open and flooding the engine.
About checking the CSI, the connector does have kind of short wire to mess around with, but did you mean to check for how long it opens with the gas line unhooked ?
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Re: V6 wont start
I meant to keep the CSI attached to the fuel rail (reattach it after removing both the rail and the CSI) and prime the system to check for a dripping injector. The CSI and injectors probably won't be able to be connected (especially the CSI) electrically, so this is a test to see if they hold pressure when not being pulsed by the ECM or the starting system (CSI runs off of the starter solenoid's starting circuit except for the switch in the intake which can and will hold it open for up to 8 seconds until the engine is above 90*C).
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Re: V6 wont start
I meant to keep the CSI attached to the fuel rail (reattach it after removing both the rail and the CSI) and prime the system to check for a dripping injector. The CSI and injectors probably won't be able to be connected (especially the CSI) electrically, so this is a test to see if they hold pressure when not being pulsed by the ECM or the starting system (CSI runs off of the starter solenoid's starting circuit except for the switch in the intake which can and will hold it open for up to 8 seconds until the engine is above 90*C).
I also worry about the fuel pressure drop after installing the new injectors..still in the limit but 8 PSI less than before. Thinking about having it towed to the dealer for diagnostic
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Re: V6 wont start
Have you checked out the MAF sensor in any way? Check it. Then worry about the oxygen sensor. The O2S only comes into play when the engine is warmed up and the exhaust is above 600*F.
Are you sure you bought the right size fuel injectors? Did you recheck the fuel system for leaks as I indicated before, clamping off the fuel hoses to find where the pressure is being lost?
Is the connection at the coolant temp sensor good and tight? Is the sensor good?
Are you sure you bought the right size fuel injectors? Did you recheck the fuel system for leaks as I indicated before, clamping off the fuel hoses to find where the pressure is being lost?
Is the connection at the coolant temp sensor good and tight? Is the sensor good?
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Re: V6 wont start
Have you checked out the MAF sensor in any way? Check it. Then worry about the oxygen sensor. The O2S only comes into play when the engine is warmed up and the exhaust is above 600*F.
Are you sure you bought the right size fuel injectors? Did you recheck the fuel system for leaks as I indicated before, clamping off the fuel hoses to find where the pressure is being lost?
Is the connection at the coolant temp sensor good and tight? Is the sensor good?
Are you sure you bought the right size fuel injectors? Did you recheck the fuel system for leaks as I indicated before, clamping off the fuel hoses to find where the pressure is being lost?
Is the connection at the coolant temp sensor good and tight? Is the sensor good?
The fuel injectors were originally for Ford, I think, 15lbs, about 1/4 inch shorter than the original, but I was told by the guys ab Southbay it should work and worked before, well, they don't leak in neither connection so I guess they fine.
With the fuel pressure, the think is that now it jumps just to about 35 PSI as before it was about 43 PSI. When I clamp the supply (the thicker hose, just for sure) after pressurizing system it goes a bit up to about 38 PSI and when I unclamped after about 5 min or less it fell down to about 20 PSI right away. Otherwise without clamping the 35 PSI goes down about 2-3PSI in 5 min.
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Re: V6 wont start
Do they loan anywhere diagnostic scanner or something I could find out what is going on with it ? I know they loan the OBD scanners at autozone but they work just for cars 93 and newer if I remeber right. Or is the only way to know for sure going to chevrolet ?
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Re: V6 wont start
So I had my car towed to Chevrolet and the manager told me my car is too old for them to work on, even though I called them twice and asked if they would do it and they said it's ok to bring it in. F them, just wasted money on the tow truck..
anyways I found out that the cold start valve was leaking on the rail connection so I put in new o ring and that fixed that. Now the engine sounds much better, but it backfires and stalls when I depress the accel pedal. also shoots rust out of the exhaust but I guess that's the backfiring and that it was sitting for a while..
Any ideas what to check? Thanks
anyways I found out that the cold start valve was leaking on the rail connection so I put in new o ring and that fixed that. Now the engine sounds much better, but it backfires and stalls when I depress the accel pedal. also shoots rust out of the exhaust but I guess that's the backfiring and that it was sitting for a while..
Any ideas what to check? Thanks
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Re: V6 wont start
A retired mechanic sugested to check the compression after he seen it so I did and it checked from 105 to 115 psi, so within limits.
Ideas what might be the problems would be appreciated, otherwise I think it's time to get it in a shop.
Ideas what might be the problems would be appreciated, otherwise I think it's time to get it in a shop.
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Re: V6 wont start
time to pull the pump/ sending unit out. or take it to a shop. (non dealership)
i had a simmilar problem with my fuel pressure. maverick H1L was working with me on it. turns out it the pulsator was bad. i talked to the lead shop mech. known him for years. he just replaced the pulsator with a fuel hose and clamped it in place. perfect starts ever since. now to figure out why its running rich....
i had a simmilar problem with my fuel pressure. maverick H1L was working with me on it. turns out it the pulsator was bad. i talked to the lead shop mech. known him for years. he just replaced the pulsator with a fuel hose and clamped it in place. perfect starts ever since. now to figure out why its running rich....
#79
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Re: V6 wont start
time to pull the pump/ sending unit out. or take it to a shop. (non dealership)
i had a simmilar problem with my fuel pressure. maverick H1L was working with me on it. turns out it the pulsator was bad. i talked to the lead shop mech. known him for years. he just replaced the pulsator with a fuel hose and clamped it in place. perfect starts ever since. now to figure out why its running rich....
i had a simmilar problem with my fuel pressure. maverick H1L was working with me on it. turns out it the pulsator was bad. i talked to the lead shop mech. known him for years. he just replaced the pulsator with a fuel hose and clamped it in place. perfect starts ever since. now to figure out why its running rich....
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Re: V6 wont start
BTW, factory spec for fuel pressure is 37-47 PSI...
#81
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Re: V6 wont start
Changed the distributor and it is running again !!
Thanks for the help, as I bet there was not only one problem..
Thanks for the help, as I bet there was not only one problem..
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Re: V6 wont start
the guy said he checked the compression as well and that it was around 175 psi (which sounds a bit high to me, but...), I guess the compression testers they loan at autozone might not work that great
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