phate

iTrader: (1)

Still working on this old beast, have not made much progress since my last post but, life likes to get in the way of car projects I am still sorting the wiring and have a few questions like what in the heck are these

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink


oh and here is a shot of how she sits now

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

The connector on the left would be for the clutch start switch if you had one. What does the end of the other one look like? I'm assuming the wires are orange and red/white, right?

:edit: Looks like the one on the right is the power wire for the hatch pulldown and is supposed to clip onto the fuse panel. The other one with the orange wire that's towards the rear of the pic on the left of the clutch switch powers some power accessory. It's supposed to attach to the junction block that is high above the harness, attached to the side of the body, that should have at least 2 similar wires in it. Plug it into the orange side (there's a few orange wires there) and not the pink side (that wire is for a constant-power circuit and the pink side is for ignition-controlled circuits such as the power windows). And the yellow wire could be almost anything. If something doesn't work in the rear harness, that would be what it's for. Those 2 connectors that the wire is coming out of the harness near are run straight to the rear of the car, with a small part coming off for the fuel pump.

phate

iTrader: (1)

the orange red white has a 15 amp fuse stuck in it, not sure what the heck that is for, wiring is a mess in this sucker.

phate

iTrader: (1)

i am actually thinking about just removing the dash and re looming the harness, sooooooo many little wires cut here and there, how much of a pain is pulling the dash?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Like I said in the edit... That's supposed to clip to the side of the fuse panel, as it's the inline fuse for the hatch pulldown assembly. Also, it's supposed to be a 10A fuse.

phate

iTrader: (1)

ah re read what you wrote, had myself all turned around without actually looking at the pic

phate

iTrader: (1)

Still working on wiring the car, have the interior out of the car and have fixed quite a few things, one circuit at a time, just patched up the fuel pump's wiring (brown wire was cut about 1/4 of an inch away from the connector under the dash and plugged into the fuse panel) but now the fuel pump runs constantly if the battery is connected (key can be Off and in my pocket and the pump still runs) , thinking its the relay or a short some where.

once i remedy the constant running is the normal operation of the pump, turn the key to on, pump brings up pressure, turns off until the car is started? (where does that signal come from? Ign?)

phate

iTrader: (1)

Fuel pump problem is not the fuel pump relay, at least if the fuel pump relay is the one i think it is, drivers side, outside the brake booster there are 3 relays i unplugged all 3 one at a time and could get the fuel pump to run with the key in my pocket. also noticed some handy work with the oil pressure sending unit that I will need to address in the next few days it appears at first glance that there is a wire connected to the oil pressure sending unit that is also attached to the positive side of the battery directly, will have to double check myself as its late and my eyes could be messing with me but if this is the case i wonder what the heck the PO was thinking.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

The wire running from the oil pressure unit to the battery would be your problem... The OPS is designed to close at about 15 PSI or so, so that the fuel pump will run if the engine is being cranked over when the relay is bad or there is a circuit/ECM problem.

The ECM closes the fuel pump relay for 2 seconds when the key is turned on to prime the fuel system, and won't run the pump again until either the engine is started or the key is turned off for about 10-15 seconds.

phate

iTrader: (1)

I had read some threads about that, have not gotten back into the garage to futz with it yet I want to take a video of how the wires are currently setup for sheer comedic posterity.

phate

iTrader: (1)

took some video (like most cell phone videos i expect them to be mediocre at best) played with the wiring it is the oil pressure sensor thing but not for the expected reason so we have a wire that runs from the + side of the battery to the sensor, the sensors other post has a broken wire dangling off of it, how this is not killing the battery i do not know, the two wires i suspect should be connected to each post on the sensor are wire nutted together, who wants to bet this is one of the sources of the SES light I will post links to the video once its uploaded.

phate

iTrader: (1)

Video of car http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vo4leJiEd_c

phate

iTrader: (1)

Found where the purple wire that is disconected goes, its connected to the rear hatch defroster also found a nest of wire nuts that i suspect are to control the rear tail lights and blinkers, those currently work correctly on the car is there supposed to be a connector in that harness somewhere?
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I think you need to get a bat and beat whomever owned your car before you over the head about a dozen times or so... Yes, there is supposed to be either a 6 or 7 wire connector there (think it's a 6, haven't seen my spare in a while). Which is what the wire nuts are for, to connect those wires. Right now, you can't remove your tail light harness if you needed to for some reason... If the connector was there, you could. I only have one half of the connector, and I'm going to end up using it when I get around to fixing my body harness (have a full Bird tail light assembly with harness, though).

phate

iTrader: (1)

believe me the thought has crossed my mind about once for every gd wire nut on the car (that is a lot) was being 90% sarcastic about the connector the one thing i have not been able to ID is the red wire from the diagrams i have looked at its not part of the tail lights.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

That red wire is the power source for the hatch pulldown motor... Should be red with a white stripe feeding into a white 2-wire connector (which will only have 1 wire in it for some reason), the other side of which will have a blue wire and connect to the limit switch on the hatch motor.

phate

iTrader: (1)

ah that makes sense (hatch pull down=yet another part i need to find)

phate

iTrader: (1)

got the tail light wiring and the harness that runs down the driver side of the car,i will have to splice the fuel pump part of it but instead of of having to splice it at the connector i will just have to merge it somewhere in the middle of the run.

Now I just need the inclination to go install it. need to read how to replace the tail light harness but i suspect that is not going to be too difficult.

phate

iTrader: (1)

swapped the tail light harness the replacement I picked up some of the connectors look a bit ratty so i may look into replacing them but hey this harness isn't connected with wire nuts so its gotta be an improvement some before and after pics.
https://picasaweb.google.com/james.t...eat=directlink

still need to lay the replacement body harness in but need to get a new heat gun for the shrink tube for the areas i need to splice.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

You did solder the harness together and not just used butt connectors, right? Hair dryer works fine on heat shrink... Can also use the soldering iron to shrink it (rub it on the tubing until it's shrunk all the way).

phate

iTrader: (1)

have not installed the drivers side harness yet figure while it is out of the way i will put some work into the foor pan on the driver side (wire brush/naval jelly)

If I use my soldering iron to shrink the heat tube i don't get to go buy a new tool I also plan on staggering the joints in the wire.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Don't get the pink heat shrink tubing... It's terrible. I'm only using it on my engine harness because it's all I have a reasonable amount of. If you can find it, there is heat shrink out there with sealant inside (helps keep water out of the connections better... Shouldn't be water in the interior anyways, but if you need to do any more wiring repairs, say, in the engine bay, you'll have it)... The stuff is mainly used on Fords (factory specified for wiring repairs).

phate

iTrader: (1)

i picked up some black tubeing from harbor freight, next time i am out i will look for the stuff with the sealant in it ,there will be some wiring in the engine bay for sure, i have an engine harness that my dad bought but i am not sure if its correct for the engine have not gotten that far yet, wonder if the engine would be easier to dress outside the car.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

That should work. The black shrinks better for some reason. Yes, the engine is a little easier to install the harness on outside the car, but you may have trouble getting the pass side of the harness through the body hole (REAL tight fit over there).