jensen73110

iTrader: (4)

Honda NSX has a 3.0L v6 putting out just under 300hp. It can do .93 on the skidpad and has a drag coefficient of .32. It weighs about 2950 lbs, and sits 46 inches high. Mid 13s for quarter mile.

For comparison, my car has a 3.1L v6 putting out 153 hp(based on dyno). Skidpad is unknown, but .90 should be well within range for my mods. Drag coefficient I've seen listed on here as ~.30. Weight is right at 3060 lbs and it sits an inch lower than stock, at 49 inches.

So, think I can meet the NSX stats?

Turbo at what, ~12 psi? Should be good for 300+ hp.
Great tires, Koni yellows, and I'll kill the skidpad.
Some lighter seats, and switching to T5 will get me the weight loss.
Drop spindles and Sportlines and I'll have the height.

Is this a realistic plan?

Pierced_Zombie

could be done probably but cheaper if u got a dif engine IMO
>.>

Rolling Thunder

Realistically not really. Reason being i dont see you making it to the end of the track at 12 psi lol. No offence i dont mean to be harsh and to be honest i dont really know what the max as far as boost is concerned but i have a hard time beliving the 3.1s would take to 12 PSI unscathed. I also dont see much aftermarket support for the 60 degree v6 to even be able to make it capable to withstand 12psi. Also as far as the weight is concerned have you measured it to be at 3060? There usually a bit heavier than that. As far as handleing, the NSX is a mid engin car to your front engine car camaros had great handling but he will always have the inherent advantage of better balance. With the mods to your suspension (dont forget swaybars and poly bushings!) you might have the edge on the skid pad though. Also on a side note the t-5 would be destroyed by a 300 hp motor especially the v6 one.

jensen73110

iTrader: (4)

I want the v6 just for its weight savings and front/rear balance. If Honda can do it with an NA 3.0, why can't I with a turbo 3.1?

Thunder, 12 is just a figure I guessed at. Yes, it can take it and more. A member on here ran his stock bottom end 60* on 28 psi.
The weight is as measured at the track after a good amount of weight reduction. Still could use more obviously....
T5s, like any trans, can be built for power.

Thanks tho.

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

Ya, project89 has plans for 28psi. He's run it at 12 psi already. Maybe more. 300 hp can be done n/a with a 3x00 swap, plenty of people on 60degreev6.com have done it. With timeslips to prove it. What do you have for brakes? You're going to need some stopping power to compete. Corvette stuff should get you what you need. I have 4th gen camaro stuff (LS1) on mine and it can haul itself down from speed pretty well. I wouldn't say they're impressive by any means, but 1000X better than the stock garbage. I only have 12" rotors though.

monkihead

you want your car to be comparable to an NSX? Your going to need a stiffer body, better suspension setup and massive weight loss. Lowering your car and putting a turbo will never give you the grace an NSX has. It was intentionally designed for balance and control.

jensen73110

iTrader: (4)

bl85c, I've got the SSBC brake upgrade with stock calipers. It is also way better than stock junk, but could stand to be upgraded. I'll look at the C5 swap before I'm done.

monki, stiffer body is done with SFC, STB & wonder bar. Suspension is modified minus a-arms and torque arm, but I do need better stuff. I wouldn't call 100 pounds "massive" weight loss, but yes, that can happen easily enough. I don't want the NSX's "grace", just comparable stats. Its got a way better interior and build quality too, but I'm not trying to match that. Just the numbers.

Still don't have answers though. Can drop spindles and lowering springs be used without fubar'ing the suspension geometry? Would that even get me a 3 inch drop? (i dont want to use airbags)
Anyone know what psi is needed for an iron head 60* to turn out 300hp?
Any suggestions on aero? Would a front splitter and rear diffuser get me that last .02 c/d?

monkihead

OIC. Don't forget the LCA's, LCA relocating brackets, pan hard bar and posi unit. Chromemoly is preffered, as its lighter and just as strong as steel.


Having a 3 in drop may not allow enough turning radius for your tires.

As for boosting, do you know your compression ratio? Having a turbo
is an easy way to make power, but gets expensive quite quickly. My
supra is getting a rebuild and I'm up to 1700 for just the short block.
I haven't even touched the head or upgraded my turbo.

Rolling Thunder

Few words to mention

1 obviously adding dropped springs messes with the geometry of the front suspension. Really the only way to drop our front ends with out messing with the chassy and to do it without messing up the geometry is to do it with dropped spindles. Will dropped springs ruin it to the point of being FUBARed? Its very hard to say as although many people do it ive never seen any tests seeing how it effected skid pad numbers or even if the advantages of the lower center of gravity out weighed the disadvantages of the messing with the front ends geometry in an actually racing situation. Could you get a 3" drop yea with the right lowing kit people claim up to a 2 inc drop and add dropped spindles to that and you should be at 3". For older f bodies ive even seen drop spindle kits with a 2 inch drop but i havnt seen much of anything in the line of dropped spindles for 3rd gen f bodies let alone a 2in drop set.

2 As far as boost is concerned, a general rule of thumb is that for every 14.7 psi you effectively double the motors effective displacement. Again in theory this should equate to double the power putting you at the 300 hp mark. Realistically it dosnt work out that way and is not 100% increase. Typically kits that run 7 psi claim about 30-50% increase just to give you an idea. However than again the 3.1 is stock and im sure leaves much to be desired in terms of performance N/A that could be gained with mods. Long story short shooting for around 14.7 boost with supporting mods would likely allow you to hit the 300 number. Without supporting mods it will take a lot more boost. A stock 3.1 would need mods to match the turbo system so your really looking at really redoing the whole motor heads, intake, cam the works just like any other build.

3 lastly as far as aero dynamics is concerned fortunately you have a firebird which was a good body to start with. Dropping the car will also help with this. Also a rear diffuse on our cars would be just for appearance as the rear diffuser is all you can see on cars that actually have functional ones but what you cant see is the whole floor pans are designed to allow them to work as they should. A front diffuser would help though. As a matter of fact trans ams with the areo package (i believe all later trans ams had it stock and it may have been an option on lower models) had a simplistic version of a diffuser which were basically some extensions on the air dam to divert air away from under the cars and the wheels. Also trans ams with the aero package that also got the aero wheels dropped there drag coefficient to around .28. Being that its a 3.1 i assume your car probably dosnt have the aero package so i would recommend pulling to parts together to install it for starters. From there conciser getting some aero wheels or something equivalent even though they happen to be pretty ugly in my oppinion they are very effective in dropping the drag especially over the typical wheels that people commonly use today.

AM91Camaro_RS

ummm, suspension...
lowering springs, you'll probably only get about 2" drop. You will mess up the front geometry but it can still be made to work. There's soo much more to it than lowering springs (or even drop spindles) and its good. I would suggest 2" drop spindles (yes, the are made for our cars) and stock height springs. As far as what spring rate you'll need...its kind of hard to say. Depends a lot on how everything else is set up. I don't think I'd go for a 3" drop. You'll have a dificult time being able to take the car anywhere. Good choice on the Konis. Also, Dean (current username is VETruck), does have skid pad numbers on his v6 with a very highly modified suspension (mostly stock setup but not stock parts). There are test results, from him, especially!

jensen73110

iTrader: (4)

THAT'S what I was looking for. Thanks for the ideas.

Already done.

CRAP. I didn't think of that.....

8.5:1
Very boost friendly. I'll do a cam from Pro-Fab, but otherwise stock internals.

Yeah, I've read some of vetruck's posts (most of which go over my head!), but I don't think he'd be interested since I'm not going for ULTIMATE handling. Just better than stock. Drop spindles with stock spring would be 2" drop.... Maybe just 1" drop springs with the spindles? I know, probably not as good on handling, but it's a weekend car anyway....
So, figure 15 psi. I'll need better fuel injectors, pump, & pcm. I have a cam picked out and will have it in before the turbo. Heads & intake will be ported, headers built for the application. Gonna have to find someone to burn a prom. (i have less than zero interest in tuning.)
Yeah, I've thought about '91-'92 T/A GFX, as Pontiac claims they actually did work as aero pieces. I think they are pricey for what they are, and honestly I like the Formula look better. Aero wheels are hideous too, but there is probably a weight savings there too. Something to think about.....

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

You need to learn to tune. Unless you're ready to dish out alot of cash and get worse results than you would learning yourself. There's alot more to it than changing the wot fuel tables, which is all they're going to do for you.

AM91Camaro_RS

I'll second that!!

zs&tas

Making a car similar to another is easy of course you can do it although given the choice between a mass produced GM thrown together built on the cheap to sell at a price unit thirdgen, or the chassis sorted by Senna ( no ones mentioned that yet ! ) money no object NSX. i know what id take :-)
have fun in your build sounds cool.

mmadden55

Sounds like a good plan to me, like to see a v6 bird beat on a Honda.

monkihead

may he r.i.p.

chevyracingrox

it's definitely doable, just expensive as hell. the T5 will help dramatically. keep in mind turbo cams are different than N/A cams so if you plan on going turbo maybe wait on the cam and get a custom grind.

84silverS/C

lmao, it is a good goal. You have to remember though the cost put into the nsx and the weight in the 3rd gen f body.

if you gut the back seat and put your ride on a diet, and de-stroke a 3.4L and top with 3500 topend find a shop to mill you a plate to mount a t56 with a upgraded clutch and a set of sticky track tires. You are there!

in just quick mental math that is about 10 grand in parts and your time and skill to put it together. Can it be done, hell yeah! is it less cash then a nice used nsx, hell yeah! is it worth it... to some ...

is it worth it to you? idk? what is your time worth? would it be sweet as hell, yes. would I like to see it... well that is a big 10-4 good buddy. just post some pics and keep a build thread for everyone to drool over.

I want a 3.4L rwd based 3500 topped with a carb that can rev to 9grand but can not find anyone to mill me a lower intake. I can weld a top and have taken a lower to the band saw but it was not even and sent to the smelter.

b

good luck!

AM91Camaro_RS

10 grand in parts? you using gold? lol. I'd guess (with suspension work) 3-4k... tops. unless you're paying somebody to do it all for you.

Rolling Thunder

Just looking at it from a parts perspective i dont see this as being a 3-4k project. Being that i dont know what he can and cant do i wont even guess at labor rates or anything like that. I mean even getting tires alone ive wouldn't expect to pay less than $450. Assuming the motor needed no work to beef up the block and no mods will be done just buying a turbo and the parts needed to make it work i would guess would be at the very least $1000. Now the T-5 will need work if you were going to go that route and the fact is its going to cost a good chunk of money to beef up a t-5 even if you build it yourself. Being that i dont know if he would want to try and swap in a v-8 t-5 or try to work with the v6 one i wont make a guess on cost but I dont see getting out of that for less than $500-$1000. Note how im up to 2000-2500 and the car wont even run yet because i haven't even made any provisions for expenses for having the chip reprogrammed especially if were talking about having it tuned with dyno time. Then we got onto suspension work but just replacing the shocks alone with something decent is going to eat up a good bit of that budget and with dropped spindles and or dropped springs again a big chunk of that budget. I dont see this in any way being done withing a 3-4k budget especially not everything. Im just looking at the big stuff none of the odds and ends that pop up along the way and im already seeing over 4k. Not that it really matters or that im trying to discourage this kinda project its just that we all know cars are money pits and i would hate to see a project get half finished because it was expected to be a 3k project that turned into a 10k project. I dont know what his plans are and being that i dont know the details i dont want to put a price tag on the parts and it doesn't matter because his budget may be 200k for all we know thats none of our business really. I will say this though as just a heads up warning, with new parts doing the work yourself i would set aside 4k just to get the car running and driving reliably again assuming no motor would need to be done. Thats with no mods to the motor or suspention just putting on a turbo getting the trans ready working out the programming to make it run stuff like like that. It may be done for less than that but some how i suspect it wont be done for significantly less especially when you figure in the labor for work you wont likely be able to do (like building the t-5 im assuming as most don't do their own trans work) i suspect that you'll be thankful you set aside 4k lol.

chevyracingrox

I've gotta say though, weight reduction is the cheapest and often the best way to improve overall performance. before you start trying to build any serious power and way before suspension upgrades come into play, strip that F-body down. there are hundreds of pounds you can remove if you're willing to make some sacrifices.

91interceptorZ

iTrader: (3)

I don't know that a stock v-6 bottom end would handle that kind of power....furtermore the v-6 t5 is weak behind a stock v6....even the v8 t5's aren't rated for the power. why did you pick a NSX to compete with, just out of curiosity??

84silverS/C

no gold for parts.

new or reman t56 =$1750-3000
brakes pbr or lsx =$1ooo
3.4L v6 w/scat crank=$2500
sob frame, control arms, tube arms and adjustable struts and shocks=$2000


i thought the question was was it doable.... yes it is. second i thought it would be started and done to a near stock 3rd gen car. a nsx is not turbo. so if you are putting together the kitchen sink you would look for an alu v8... or at least the new caddy v6 and stick from a ctc... it is sorta based on 660* tech even!

sorry but in my neck of the woods new and reman parts cost cash!

and this is not including new rear with e-locker to give a locked and l/s to be on par with the nsx. no up grade to the steering to a rack and pinion with quicker and more angle. no ground and body kit. and what about paint and body to match the nsx. then the custom seats and dash to at least match the nsx... it was a super car not a mass produced pony car.

all this is money. yes it could be a junkyard queen, but that would not be something you would say it on par with a nsx.



sorry... just my view!

b

91interceptorZ

iTrader: (3)

I agree with cost, it doesn't take much to hit 10k.....very easy....can do that with just a motor build alone, not to mention trans, rear end, brakes, interior, etc., etc. etc.

Guest

NSX. Realistic target?

......Hell yes.

I would eat one for lunch on an autox course.

AND.....If I had not been stuck in **** california I would have completed that 3.5L motor with a turbo to boot at about 300hp and would really eat an NSX for lunch running the streets.

I beat 2 NSX's hands down years back when they were new in my massive chev longbed truck (before it was "vetruck") on an autox course. They aren't sh*t. Overpriced crap in my book.

jensen73110

iTrader: (4)

Interceptor, I chose the NSX, as it is an exotic from the same era as our cars ('91 Firebird vs '91 NSX) and has high, but attainable stats. I didn't pick an Enzo because that is way beyond my reach.
Yes, a v6 will take 12 psi. A guy on here with a home made DIY turbo setup ran 15 psi just fine with stock programming and fuel.

silverS/C, again, I'm not trying to match the interior or build quality. That would cost a crapload and is something I don't really care about.
Going with my earlier list, my parts are much cheaper than yours listed:
Forged 3.1 pistons: $250
Used T5: $250
Megasquirt: ~$300
Turbo: $200
Intercooler: $200
Headers: $1000, high estimate
Tires: $800
Aero: $500

Yes, it will still be costly, but I am estimating $10k total for the build. This will take place slowly over the next few years, so I don't want to start a build thread.
Weight reduction has taken place, but yes I need about 100 pounds more. T5 swap, lighter driveshaft and possibly a k-member should easily get me that.
And the brakes are upgrades with SSBC front upgrade kit, and rear aluminum drums. Yeah, could be better....
Suspension has sway bars, bushings, shocks/struts, LCAs, PHB, and so on.... Still need $800 Konis and good (great!) tires.
Paint and body are done. $6100 in exterior work will do that. $1400 in wheels, another $1500 in suspension. $500 in the engine, $1000 on various misc upgrades. I'm not afraid of spending what it takes. No, I don't have a lot of cash, I just do this over several years so it feels cheaper.

Thanks for the thoughts.

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

You need better than drums. Just get 4th gen discs for the rear. Go look over the stckies in the suspension & steering section for the "ultimate suspension" pt.1 & 2. Vetruck has done a good job putting suspension geometry into words and in particular explaining why drop springs are a bad idea. I'm waiting for word on belltech's 2" drop spindles before I put $550 into spindles! I don't see anything wrong with junkyard souced parts for a diy-project. Not everything needs to be brand new and that means more money can be spent where it's needed.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

It won't be long and i'll be running low 13's to high 12's N/A..


3x00 stuff is the way to go

84silverS/C

ok... i guess... sorta ... but there are somethings you might want to rethink... or think about.

like a junkyard t5 is gonna crap on you when you lean on it. and a t56 wont.
even under boost the 3.1L will run out of rev kinda low unless you do something to de-stroke... one of the good things about the nsx was a very rev happy v6 with lots of top end. also a scat custom crank gives you larger pistons and less movement ... so you get more rpm and the larger bore allows the better heads from a 3500...

you are right about mega squirt but If you are doing this much you might as well put the box together yourself and it is one of the things you can save on.

sorry... I am not putting you down. I just had a very defferent idea of what a 3rd gen camaro would look like if it was equiped to slay a nsx! I mean some of them had remote adjustable spoilers!

to vetruck-
and i would love to see a fulsize chevy longbed out run a nsx... hell I would love to see one out corner its own shadow! you must be a world class driver and the nsx had a student driver or something... idk... link a video!

i fell into the floor over this!


good luck, but you might want to rethink your comp to something with a front mounted ... not mid mount v6.

with you doing the custom work it is something you can do. you might really look into the newer caddy swap though they have them on e-bay at a good price.

b

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

Where do you get the idea that the crank's the limiting factor here? The stock valvetrain is what's keeping him below 5500 rpm. Stock induction sucks too but with enough pressure he can fudge on it if that's the way he wants to do it... A custom crank's not neccecary. Stock stuff has held up to well over 400 ft/lbs of torq without issue. And if he really wants a stronger crank for some reason get a 3500 crank and have the rod dowels turned down. I have one for my upcoming tt build. As far as Vetruck's truck is concerned I'll let him explain that to you.

91interceptorZ

iTrader: (3)

here is what I found on a base '93 NSX numbers
'93 base model coupe tested by motortrend july-1993. 3.0 v-6 with 5 speed manual. 0-60.....5.6sec
1/4mi....13.9sec
60-0.....117ft
skidpad..0.92g
slalom....65.3mph

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget the possible oiling issues of the gen1 block.


I've seen many gen1 and gen2 blocks wipe cam lobes in high RPM applications, i agree on the 7484 casting 3500 crank though, forged steel is good insurance.


Since this is a boosted app an auto trans (although heavy) is a good upgrade. I'm planning on using a 4L60E with a stand alone controller on my 3500 swap. The fast shifts will really help out the 1/4 mile times.

84silverS/C

the crank alone is not the "only" thing to limit the rpm brick wall.... but with out stepping up to a 3.4L block or larger you can not get the topend that will darn sure help. and i have seen the 3500 run to the red and hold... if there were less stroke it would rev more...


is that in question?

also it kinda looked like there was a intent to keep the displacement close to the nsx... or why keep a v6? I mean you can pick up a fi 4.3L+5speen for 1200 and be a lot closer to the torq needed to keep a nsx with in a car length... or a 5.7 and t56 for 2g and could at least be that much closer. it is staying in line with a nsx and using gm parts that work together and fit in a 3rd gen.

here is my last attempt to help


this would be a quick way to get 255hp 265lbt and is only a grand!


just an idea...might be a ... might not...idk

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Caddi...Q5fAccessories

and this should bolt to a t5 or the stronger tk0500

Guest

You obviously do not know of me, my vehicles, or my resume'.
My "vetruck" started life as a 1989 Chev C1500 standard cab longbed 21 years ago new.......I do not think it has one factory part left on it other than the original bed shgeetmetal. Even the cab has been changes and just about every nut and bolt. The frame is highly altered and modified. COme to think of it the fuel tank is factory, but the internals of the tank or modified. I have over 60 easily into this truck.
This truck puts down 340hp and happens to be my daily driver. I have maxed it out on top end at 152mph with areo work done to assist what once was a brick in flight. The truck builds two low pressure zones, one under the front nose, and one above the bed. Itt has a full cage in it, completely new geometrically fabricated front suspension with custom mount points....it even has a 6 foot long 100% pure carbon fiber driveshafts with 1350 yokes that cost $1400. Son, you do not want to f*ck with this truck......To top all that, it is my daily driver work truck that will carry 4000lbs in the bed as payload...So YES, It still is a truck and is used daily as one hauling building materials believe it or not.

I run 18x8.5 fronts on 285/50-18 yoko's and 19x10 rears on 295/45-19 yoko's. Currie 9" extra heavyduty housing rearend, lightweight internals, currently getting ready to convert the long ago massively modified DY700 trans to the new TCI 6 speed auto with paddle shifter, .......Where do I stop? you getting the point?

You might want to click on my name and check my pictures

84silverS/C

so you don't have a video of he nsx getting its a$$ handed to it. Darn I was looking forward to it. Sounds like one hell of a truck, 12grand more than a srt10 ... but one hell of a sleeper if it still looks like a square body chevy.

what are you running for 60'? what about 1/8 and 1/4? to need that cage you'd be pushing what 8.9 quarter times? got any slips that you've run through a scanner to shut up the haters?


and you have never put in an application for employment through me or my office so sadly no i have not gotten a chance to read your resume. Or is that posted on line .... link?

jenson it looks like you just need to cut the sub-frames out and mount your camaro on a truck frame... at least you would have a outline for what works and a mentor to keep you in check.


what dose your truck tip the scale at? I really want to see it cut corners and not wash out under the weight x body roll + all that power to a long bed with low weight over the rear end.

I mean to be able to have designed a way to change weight transfer & center of grav to make it corner better than a nsx through the cones at an auto x ... damn son. I bet you work for NASA... that is not a smart a$$ remark . u dropped 60k into a long bed. that is government style 20 thousand smackers for a hammer stuff.


I know i jacked this thread, but i need links... gonna blow up some pics and put photos of this truck on the wall. I am not playin, I will gladly take pics of me drinking a beer infront of your truck on my wall. and bow down... link me a vid.


sorry if it sounds like i am being a pr!ck ... not the intent. I have real interest in the vetruck! crap man i am drooling on my keybord!

b

Guest

You mock me, then you secretly in PM's ask me for help on your s10? You are a smart one aren't you, were your parents brother and sister?

the PM:
Originally Posted by 84silverS/C
ok... i did not know how to get a thread that you would see and did not want to post up stuff in the forum ,v6, cause it is not a related topic.

first, you are gonna read my post and think i am throwing salt. I am not. I am interested in some of the mods you have done. Do you have a link to a gallery of pics and vids? I have more than just a 6er in a 3rd gen. I am working on a s10 that is to be, still, a shop truck and something I can take to some semi local auto x stuff. I was not putting much though into weight transfer and changing the center of grav as it was something I thought was not worth the time for the gane. If you are able to cut and turn with out pushing through corners to keep up with a mid mounted rice fed sudo super car you are the one to talk to.

I am less interested in lowering that all around handeling and tuneability. I have thought about going with a shockwave from air ride. but dont think it is what would be best for me. I know i have written a book... sorry.

thanks for any help,

bill

i plan on using 18* top end on a world 420 sbc with road dem mounted to a min clutch backed by a road race prep t56 with a 9" out back. guessing about 2400lb with a bed cover and inerfenders cut and tube and glass bed. still able to cart around a 1100lb toploader but just.

have a great new year!


84silverS/C
Junior Member

Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 34

Classifieds Rating: (0)


hey man
ok... i did not know how to get a thread that you would see and did not want to post up stuff in the forum ,v6, cause it is not a related topic.

first, you are gonna read my post and think i am throwing salt. I am not. I am interested in some of the mods you have done. Do you have a link to a gallery of pics and vids? I have more than just a 6er in a 3rd gen. I am working on a s10 that is to be, still, a shop truck and something I can take to some semi local auto x stuff. I was not putting much though into weight transfer and changing the center of grav as it was something I thought was not worth the time for the gane. If you are able to cut and turn with out pushing through corners to keep up with a mid mounted rice fed sudo super car you are the one to talk to.

I am less interested in lowering that all around handeling and tuneability. I have thought about going with a shockwave from air ride. but dont think it is what would be best for me. I know i have written a book... sorry.

thanks for any help,

bill

i plan on using 18* top end on a world 420 sbc with road dem mounted to a min clutch backed by a road race prep t56 with a 9" out back. guessing about 2400lb with a bed cover and inerfenders cut and tube and glass bed. still able to cart around a 1100lb toploader but just.

have a great new year!

Air Ride? Seriously?You thought about it for handling? Are you an idiot?

84silverS/C

new thread... about this "new" topic! come see!

here
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/5...ml#post4385836

jen... sorry to muddle your thread with a bunch of fluff.

what do you think about that caddy v6??? for a grand it might be a good middle ground. good luck. happy new year!

b

Guest

Somewhere in AutoX archieves if anyone ever posted any from back in the early 90's (had to be between '90-'92, I quit racing my Vette in 92 and I would tow it to the track with this truck) I ran this truck in "street tire" class against about 40 other various vehicles- two of them being Acura NSX's. I beat both of them. It was either an SCCA sanctioned event, or a SCCSCC event soloII.

I also ran an SCCA event in Devore Calif and ran this truck against an LA county Sherriff Police version of a Nissan 300Z. I ran 59.86, and the lead instructor of the Sherriff's drivers training acadamy ran a 60.26. I was on BFG CompT/A HR4's 275/60-15's and he was on Dunlop SP3000's his were a much better speed rated performance tire at the time.

here is also a shot of the high speed recall dash within the last year. Thats all you need to know. 152 mph top speed.

Project 3.4 Camaro

Just want to throw this out there, but a stock IROC-Z can match that skidpad, and is right behind on the slalom for a car that costs a fraction of an NSX Not bad for a "cheap mass produced" pony car imo...

91interceptorZ

iTrader: (3)

The newer camaro V6 motors are 305hp.....but I don't know what tranny they bolt to (I know the v8's have a new setup).....also they probably are very expensive and hard to find, but just some food for thought!!

oil pan 4

iTrader: (1)

I have been told that the V8s use the old bolt pattern minus one bolt.