No matter how many times I see them, they sure are built nice...











This one has 60k miles on it.

 

Damn...that is sure is a beauty

 

It sure is, and it's mine.

 

Yep, it is now ....






Crated and soaked with anti-corrosives.

Enjoy!!!

 

Nice! Those do look very saxy. What will it be going in? Anything exciting?

 

bl85c is going to use it in his new motor .

3500 cranks (#4878) are rumored to be forged due to the wide casting lines and the sound it makes when tapped with a hammer, but it is at least steel. The rod pins were increased to 2.249" vs. the earlier nodular iron cranks' 1.999", so after having the rods pins ground to size, you get a nice strong crank for our motors

 

Well it's not going in quite yet... but I do have something big planned eventually. Something in the low 10 sec zone. I'll have to settle for 12's in the mean time.

 

Look what arrived! Let me say that this is one hefty crank. It's easily another 15lbs+ over the 2.8 and 3.1 cranks. Just about everything is beefed up on these cranks, and dings like a bell when tapped. I'd be suprised if it weren't a forging given the amount of machining gm put into these babies.

 

Yes, it's very heavy

There is debate over weather or not it is indeed forged, and no one has squeezed the info form GM. The casting marks are thick like a forging, but it has almost the same tone as a 3.1 nodular iron crank when I compared the two side ny side. Like you I believe all the machining on it indicates it is 41xx series steel at the minimum (considered forged).

 

Will that fit in a 2.8/3.1?

 

Yes, but you need to have the rod dowels turned down to use the stock rods. Might be an issue w/ the crank reluctor on gen 1 blocks too. You can turn it into a stroker by offset grining it.

 

2.8 and 3.1's, if you keep your distributor and iron top ends, these cranks are a go as long as you have the rod pins ground like bl85c said.

The 3500 uses a 2.249" rod dowel and the 3.1/2.8/3.4/3100/3400 all use a 1.999". Make sure you check all clearances before assebly, GM advertises the 3500 cranks at 3.10" stroke, and all other 3.1-up's at 3.307". - so check the main clearances --- since you have to machine the rod pins anyways, most machine shops won't charge you to double check you have proper clearances on the main bearings. A 2.8 will need to use 3.1 pistons and become a 3.1 unless you want to pay to have the pins offset ground to a smaller stroke for a 2.8.

This is where we get the extra .25" stroke capability. I test fit a 3500 crank in a 3.4 block and it seemed that little clearancing would be needed. Offset grind the 3500 crank to the 1.999" rod dowels, and use the earlier 5.7" rods (vs the 5.9" 3500 rods) to help get te stroke back, but custom pistons would be needed (or decking the block).

Either way, this a good alternative to a $1200+ forged 60 degree crank. Offset grinding even should be less than $400. It should not cost any more to turn it to the 1.999" than having a stock crank ground undersized (ie, use the stock stroke and bearing thickness).

 

Very interesting, I'll have to look into that, thanks for the info, althought if I decide to go this route I will have to bug the crap out of all you to help me through