firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Are those Denso's form a Ford? How much did you get them for?

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Yea they are Ford Denso injectors. I think I got them for about $130. Honestly I dont know if thats a good price. It was a drunken impulse buy I hope it was a good choise...

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

You should have asked me first I have a set of 8 I won't be needing anymore, but I think that's about what I paid with 10k miles on them.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

These are supposedly "Professionally rebuilt" injectors with a 1 year warrenty. At least I bought something for my car and not something that I would regret buying.
You got anything else laying around that you want to get rid of?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

8:1 FMU I was just about to relist on ebay. I'll do $100 shipped.

EDIT: I can hold it for another week if you need as well, since I would re-list it for another 7 days. Since I had a reserve, no one got in a bidding war over it, probably should have started it at $100 (started at $.99).

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

I dont think Ill need a FMU for my setup. Im going to going to get my chip reburned and use a higher MAP sensor and all the other new parts as well.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

DIY Autotune has both a 3BAR GM MAP, and a 4BAR "MAP-daddy" for the MS.

Are you going to have somebody tune for you, or are you going to attempt it yourself with equipment?

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Im going to get it done for me. Ive looked into how to do it to the stock ECM and I cant quite grasp the concept.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Well I got the pass. exhaust manifold off today. The bolts that had heads (4 out of 6) came out really easy. All was going great till I was trying to pull it out. The 2 bolts still in the heads and the y-pipe made this a "fun" task. When it broke free it made my hand slam into something and sliced open my finger. That kinda put a damper on the evening.
So here is what I got done...

You think I have a slight oil leak. Probubly one of many.

micali

iTrader: (1)

I can't believe no one has mentioned POR-15! This stuff is probably the best product to prevent rust and stop it. You can put it directly over rust, after you have cleaned it and it will stop the corrosion and can strengthen the metal. Now it won't help structure but on a fender it can.

I know people that have put it on the frames to keep them from rusting and it looks nice. It's kinda pricey but it would be a great idea for any car up north. It's better then just undercoating. I would do both.

What is nice about it is you can paint over the stuff without problems. You need to give it a look. Also If anyone is doing body work check out a product called Z-Chrome. I love this stuff. www.SMARTSHOPPERSINC.COM
To buy it locally it costs around $90 but from them it is 18 plus 7.50 to ship. That is for a gallon.

oil pan 4

iTrader: (1)

I use a lot of "rust converter" that stuff turns the rust black with a little phosporic acid to chemicly stop the rusting process then seals it and when it drys its just as good as primer coated metal. I use a hole lot of Rubberized undercoating along with some black spary paint. Under coating works well in places that can get blasted with sand and water like wheel wells.
Black spary paint is just to keep rust off bare metal.
"Liquid Nails" works real well for resealing seams that are un sealing or have unsealed them selves all the way. I use Liquid Nails by its self to seal small holes or with a small square of sheet metal fix larger ones. Small rust hole + rust converter + liquid nails + sheet metal + a few coats of rubberized undercoating = good as new.

For all that badly rusted stuff you will need sheet metal and a welder. Once the new metal is in paint it with under coating.

87CamaroMan

I finally got some pics of what I am going through with my rust problems. Its not as bad as I thought it was going to be. For some reason I thought my frame was rusted but its not. It 100% good. I had to cut from where the lower control arm connects to the car all the way up the foot well. Well take a look.

Drivers side

Pass

pass

Car

From the back


I just got a fender from a old f150 I am going to bend cut and weld into place. I am hoping the have the FP in the car some time this week. Then I can put the new Tranny in and it should run. I post some more pics when I get it welded.

Oh and there is a Harbor Freight in Altoona. Make sure you print out any add from the internet and take it with you. There prices aren't the same at the store. I got some of my air tools from there. I plan on going out soon. To get some more stuff.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Well I found a deal I couldnt pass up. So $99 and 2 trips to Pep Boys and heres what I have now...

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Dude! That is a good deal! I'm just hoping HF has some hoists left when I gat there next Fri morning. The engine stands will be on sale for $30 also, think I'm grabbing a couple of them for some future projects .

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Yeah. Its orig. price is $230. So I had to jump on it. I can even hook it up to an air compressor. But I dont have one...yet. Im not ready to pull the engine yet, but this will help when the time comes.

Just remembered that I need a pulley puller. 2 trips to the parts store and forgot both times Just ordered one, so I should get the driver side ready within the week. Than all I need to do is drain the fluids and pull it out.....If it were only that easy.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Looks like you might get yours pulled before me

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

I dont know about that. All I need now is the engine stand and more room... I need to find better places for all my other parts so when my dad comes home to an engine sitting there I wont be taking up all the room in the garage I also have to figure out if Im going to port/polish anything or if Im just going to put it on.
All this while I wait for the guy to come look at the rust.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Did you see my posting job so far? USe the 3500 metal UIM gaskets to port to.

Harbor Freight is having a sale on engine stands the same weekend as the lifts. Stands will be $27 or $29.

I saw the hoist you bought at PepBoys today, how did you get that deal?

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Ill never tell



I guess it was on sale for $150 plus it had a $50 rebate. I saw it in one of the sunday paper adds.
Before I port anything I have to eaither find a 3.4 block locally or figure how Im going to do the DIS thing. And good job on the port job too. Is that almost a mirror finish?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

As close to mirror as I could get! I probably could have gotten a few more of the "scratches" out but could hardly feel them with my fingernail

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

I just came up with a plan for the DIS to run. I need to take off my balancer and crank pulley, than give them to my buddy with that CAD drawing I got from 60*V6 and have him mount a wheel to the back of my UD pulley. Than all I will have to worry about is the trigger mount and adjusting it front to back.

I have no idea if that made sense

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

What buddy? I'm actually hoping to make one that mounts to the front of the pulley so the user doesn't have to shim out all of the accesories.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

What would you do if you need to change your belt, on your design? Any time frame on this project?
You just keep putting more and more on your plate, dont you.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

I had a little time to work on the car today before I became the house taxi. I got the PS pump off, exhaust manifold off, and the top of the intake off.
Here is the pulley off of the PS pump...


The PS pump is off and just resting against the lower coolant hose (way to much involved in that bracket)...


Intake coming off...

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Looks like you are starting to make good progress. I never pull the P/S pulley off, if you work all the bolts loose a little at a time, it will just make it.

BTW: I'll start sending your stuff up this week and next, You got so much, that it will be a couple of shipments. The only thing I don't have done is the header bolt hole mod.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

I didnt know about the bolt on the block and when I couldnt get it off (I could wiggle it but not get it off) I thought it had to come out. Seeing how everything I read said I had to take it out, or mabye I read them wrong. Eather way I went through too much work that didnt need to be. I also read that I have to get the pulley pressed back on by a shop...Is this true? If so, that will just make my day

Thats cool. I was actually wondering about that yesterday.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

My block is comming Thurs, and I need the stuff out of the way,

The pulley won't be too hard to press on, a local machine shop can do it in a couple of minutes. You can try pressing it on yourself, but you are going to need to make some kind of jig, and use a bottle jack.

2.8RS

iTrader: (5)

If you get a PS pulley puller it should have a bolt and nut that you can use to press it back on with. A bolt will thread into the center and you just tighten down a nut to get it back on. Or you can be like me the second time I had to pull the pulley. I just pressed it back on with a rubber mallet.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

The pulley shaft only has an allen wrench hole in it, no place to thread a bolt.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Well when it comes time to put it back on I will try to hammer it back on. I want to try to keep the lines connected.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Well I got it as torn down as I want to go in the engine bay. All I have to do now is drain the fluids, unhook the tranny parts, and pull it out. I also got the distributer out but I left it in there for now so nothing falls down into the engine...

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

I had a little bit of time to putz around on the engine today, and thought Id post a few pics before I have to go out. Didnt do much today. Drained the oil and pulled the valve covers.
Pass Side........



Driver Side..........


All the parts on the pass side were a golden color and the parts on the driver side were more blackened. Whay is this? Did I have a bad valve seal?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

If you look in some of my pics, the inside of my engine was very black.

I'll be sending more stuff out this week I think all there is left is the I/C and headers (and the oil pan fitting). My truck has been down, so that has been a priority the past few days.

Nice to see some more progress

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

It was just weird to see one side such a differant color than the other side. I guess it dosent really matter. Now I need to find the coolant drains on the sides of the block. I havent looked for them yet, but I know there is one on each side.

brandotron

iTrader: (2)

Seriously, this is a riveting thread. I don't know how I started reading it, but I can't wait to see what happens next.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Right between cyls # 3 and 5 on the pass side. See the little brass plug with a square head on it (painted silver here). The web to the right of the letter "F", and down a bit...



...and should be right below cyl #6 on the driver's side (again below and to the right of the "F" in the pic)...



I don't remember if the "F" is cast into the 3.1/2.8 blocks, but it will help you locate them in the pics, and should be near the same place on yours.

Xoferif

My 3.1 has "L"s cast on it...and it doesn't have a plug on the passenger side, but it does have one on the driver side...located exactly where yours is.

To further prove what I said...

A picture of the passenger side...it's the best picture I have that shows the entire side of the block.


And a picture showing the plug on the driver side (same engine, believe it or not)...

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

I thought I heard one time that the drain on the pass side was the knock sensor.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the clearification. I don't have the 3.1 shortblock pulled from tha car as of yet.

Chris, you may be right on the KS being the plug. Will need to check that out tomorrow when I go to the shop.

Xoferif

The KS being the drain plug would make sense...since it's much further down on the block than the KS on your 3.4.

85berlinetta2.8

wow dude, what did you use to get the exhaust manifolds off?

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

I used a torque wrench. There were 2 bolts on the pass side and 1 on driver side that had the heads broken off (not from me). I was surprised at how easily the bolts, that had heads, came out. I didnt even soak them with penatrating oil, because they arent going back on.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

I have seen lots of bolt heads broken off - even ones that were never removed. Happens from stress/heat cycles, I believe. GM now uses studs to hold on the exhaust manifolds.

Xoferif

Yep, my car had three heads broken off and another was broken off flush with the head...had to drill it out...came out easy though.

a1990camarors

Dont be daunted are scared about welding man I was sat down by my uncle when i was thirteen handed a arc welder, welding helmet some gloves and told me too hook the ground too wut i was welding and let me be. Its not as hard as ppl try too make it sound I would go out buy a mig welder (arc welders are cheaper but a bit more complicated its the old school way) get welding goggles < lot easier then a helmet warning thou ur eyes will hurt more there not as dark. get some gloves and practice on some sheet metal ull be a pro before u know it. ask around about heat setting for wut kind on metals etc etc after u do ur first weld its a piece of cake.

89RsPower!

they'll fail you for rust in new jersey too, my friend had an old corsia with the front of the hood rusted, they said it was dangerous so they failed him for it, had to get a new hood from the jy to pass saftey.

85berlinetta2.8

surface rust is ok, but anything right through, that on the outside can cut someone. or some rust thast is through in places that affect the structure of the car wont pass.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Well, I gotta get in on this one so I can see the progress...

Good work so far.

So? You're rebuilding your 3.1? I'm just curious because I think it's cheaper and easier to get your DIS stuff and front wheel drive top end stuff if you use that 3.4 block from the 4th gens.

Keep up the good work!

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Its not the actual welding that is making me want to get it done. Its the place thats its in. There are a lot of bends, angles, stuff like that. In order for me to be able to do this all myself, right, I would need to buy a lot of "toys". And that would probubly run me a lot of money and take up to much room in my dads garage (Im taking up a lot as it is). I have 2 buddies that could help me--One owns a machine/body shop and the other has body shop in his garage.


Im on a pretty tight budget. Ive been aquiring parts over the last year and a half. Im keeping my block to save some money. I have a lot of the "kinks" in my plan, hopefully" worked out. Ill make a quick list of what I have so far and my plans, mabye tomorrow.

Although mabye I should keep the specifics a secret for the time being...

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I don't know, I understand budgets but you ought to be able to get a 3.4 pretty cheap if you're scouring the wrecking yards...

I read what you said about attaching a trigger wheel to the back of the balancer. That's the 3800/3300 Buick type setup. It works fine; I just don't know how you're gonna attach it to make it perfect...

Is it maybe possible to get the measurements from firstfirebird on his 3.4 (or take your own measurements from your crank) and drill/tap a hole in your block to hit the crank sensor that is cast into your crank already?