Cratemaster

hello, i'm rebuilding my 1984 (small journal) 173 engine and I can't seem to find a new crankshaft for it. I've found remanufactured ones, but I've already got OEM bearings and I like the features of some of the new SCAT or Eagle ones, like being made out of steel or being nitride hardened. I don't want to spend much more than $250 though. Eagle makes a 173 std. steel cast crank, but i believe it's for the large mains type because it has the casting no. (817) and I believe mine is (504). I'm also having trouble finding new rods too. Could someone please direct me in the right direction?

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Take a right turn and head to the nearest wrecking yard. While you're there pick up a complete (core engine) 1987 or newer 60 degree V6 from an f-car or s-truck. Bring home, start over.

Sorry man, but that's my advice. I've seen too many people go to a lot of trouble with your engine block and then repeat the process. There's a reason you can't reuse your crank and another (even better) reason that Eagle doesn't sell one for your block; liability. Your block doesn't oil enough for a stock application, let alone pounding on it.

Turn back before it's too late!!

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

ARI has them, use google. They even have a small journal stroker crank, but don't expect the small journal to last as long.

2.8RS

iTrader: (5)

Get a later year 2.8. Much better internals.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

I really wish this myth of better oiling in the '87 and later blocks would stop. The oiling is the same from 1982 to 1995 (in the genI and II blocks) the genIII had much needed oil updates starting in 1994 (late '93 on a certain model of car), in the 3100, other than that, no oil system changes.

I would agree however that a 1985.5 or newer block and crank should be used, as the small journal cranks were known to break, very few large journal cranks break even at some insane HP levels.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

It's not a myth. Not just the crank is vulnerable but the block itself. The oil passages are not the same as the newer blocks. They are not the same size or always in the same position (depending on the year.) The block is not tough enough to allow it to be align-bored to the larger size and using a smaller steel or turned down crank will most likely break the block at the main webs.

I am searching like mad on ebay and everywhere else for another copy of the GM V6 performance manual that I had from 1990. If I find it, I'll scan and post every page just to help out. I'm not trying to fire you up; I know what GM said in that manual and I know what I had to sell at the auto parts store.

They match.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

I've had a lot of those blocks apart, and have looked for differences, there are none. I don't just believe everything I read, I look at my hands on as well.

I don't think anyone mentioned alignboring the block to accept the larger crank, I mentioned grabbing a 1985.5 or newr block, because it has the larger mains.

The only improvement in oiling is in the genIII blocks, all gen I and II blocks share the same cam priority oiling system.

Cratemaster

well, I can't find a new 173 crank with cast# 504 except an OEM iron one directly from GM and they want like 500 bucks for it lol. So I guess I'll get the remanufactured one, it comes with it's own bearings to fit, and I guess I sell my extra bearings on ebay, still having trouble finding rods too, I've already spent a bunch of money on this engine and I don't have the resources to convert my car from carburated to MPFI, whether it be knowledge or tools. Any help find some new rods and crank for this engine would be greatly appreciated though.

Cratemaster

BTW, I'm not planning on increasing horsepower much on this car, my "small journal" crank is in remarkably good condition after this rod bearing failure and I'll probably keep it as a spare, the metal hasn't blued at all that I can see. The only outstanding things I noticed when disassembling my engine was a clogged EGR port and a dirty/maybe slightly clogged lifter and of course the spun bearing. I believe my block is strong enough to last just as long as any later year block and handle any of the driving I do with it.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Rods should be extremly easy to find, they have been the same from 1982 to 2004 and were only changed in the 3500.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Rods are $19 from ARE Engines...
http://www.engine-parts.com/GMV6/gmv6blockscranks.html

Cratemaster

hey guys, don't laugh but how do you find out all the measurements for my rods like rod length and journal diameter, because i'm just completely clueless how to find out what kind of rods I need

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

RE-read post #10 , and then click the link I gave you in post #11 to order.

Cratemaster

ok, thanks, I just wanted to know though, but I called ARI and they said they didn't have the small mains crank and that they can't get them anymore cause they keep breaking so I've found a remanufactured one from RockAuto that I'm going to get, I guess there are no third party manufacturers of my crankshaft because of liability/popularity issues so I'm gonna have to do with a remanufactured one.

Cratemaster

I've got another question, I've found a set of headers from pacesetter. In the description is says it will retain pollution control systems, does that mean it will accept my stock A.I.R. system? Also, will I be able to keep my air conditioner. The reason why I as is because I'm having trouble finding the passenger side exhaust manifold and I need new ones for both sides. I figured I should just switch to headers while I'm at it and they're made of steel, not highly corrosive cast iron

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

They will fit with all accesories.

2.8RS

iTrader: (5)

They are a direct replacement for the manifolds basically.