I have a 2.8 MPFI
2 135psi
4 135
6 0
1 150
3 0
5 140

good or bad?

How many turns should I go after I find zero lash. 1 or 1 1/4 or 1 1/2?

 

zeros are bad

Your numbers should be within 10% of each other to be "good" You can live with 30%

zeros are bad

1 1/2 turns after zero lash for the 2.8

 

I took it back down and used a compression guage and now have all the cylinders at 145-150. I have one at 155 psi. Should that be ok?

All I did was start backing them off 1/8 turn or less, crank the motor over and see what happens. When I would back them off the compression would come up. I tried to keep the intake and exhaust turns equal from where I started from.

Is that good compression? Should I have any problems if I was to try and start it? I am going to put it back together without the valve covers on and if it starts try and adjust them with it running. If i do it when it is running do I back them off until the chatter, then tighten them up until it quits and then give it another turn and a 1/4 or 1/2?

 

I don't do it when they are running; it's just too messy for my taste.

Your compression numbers are fine. If I were you, I'd buy a Chilton's Total Car care manual and then do it just like the book says.

It's less oil mess. I know there are guys who swear by using cut-out valve covers but I am not one of them.

 

Go get a haynes manuel to learn the order of the valves you are supposed to tighten them down. When you do adjust for 0 lash only do it by up and down movement then turn the nut an extra 1.25 to 1.5 turn. I did it bt the haynes manuel first and had trouble running and heard valve clatter. I got help here and did it the way I described and the motor ran much better and quieter.

 

1. So it's possible for the lifters to tick if I button it up and try and start it?

2. Could I still be to tight or to loose with adjustment even with 150psi or should I be ok just like it is?


I know the correct order to do it in and I adjusted them like the autozone site said. I had a manual and it said to turn the rods and that didn't work. I did the adjustment by lifting until no more, then I would turn it 1 1/2 more turns. I must have done something wrong before to have two cyl at 0 psi. I had it running with two dead cyl for about 20 secs, with the foot on the gas, but it sounded like crap.

If you think I'll be ok I'll put the covers back on and go for it. I really don't know what else to do. I could start over and then see what the compression is. What is the comp supposed to be for these engines?

If I can just get it to start I think I'd rather adjust them with the motor running. I don't care about the mess. This car has been sitting for to long and I would really like to drive it. So one more question, If i do it when it is running do I back them off until the chatter, then tighten them up until it quits and then give it another turn and a 1/4 or 1/2?

 

If that way didn't work then you can adjust them with the motor running. I don't know how so someone else will chime in. Correct me if I'm wrong please, The compression I believe should be ~160 psi. You can live with 150, you should be fine with that.

 

OK, here's what I think the problem is. From the way you're describing it, it sounds like you are adjusting the intake and exhaust at the same time.

I have followed the Haynes manual EXACTLY several times and NEVER ONCE had a problem.

Unfortunatly, I suggest you start over, back them all the way off so that everything is loose, then start by following the procedure. I have never seen it printed anywhere that you should preload the lifter with 1-1/2 turns past 0 lash BTW. Here's the procedure from my haynes manual.

1. Bring #1 Cylinder to TDC on compression stroke. (THis can either be verified by compression, valve placement, or distributor position)

2.Adjust a valve by going tightening to 0 lash. To find 0 lash, move the pushrod up and down and tighten until all clearance is gone, Then spin the pushrod with your fingers until slight resistance is felt. Do not exert downward pressure with the wrench or you'll get a false lash adjustment. Stop tightening when you JUST feel the slightest amount of resistance to the spinning.

3. After you find the 0 lash point, tighten the nut an aditional 3/4 turn to preload the lifter. Anymore and the valve will hang open, less and you'll get a lifter tick. Both could result in possible engine damage.

4. With Cyl #1 on TDC compression adjust the following valves. #1, 5, and 6 INTAKE; #1, 2, and 3 EXHAUST.

5. Rotate the cranckshaft 360* so that #4 is on TDC Compression and adjust the following valves. #2, 3, and 4 INTAKE; #4, 5, 6 EXHAUST.

Please make sure that you are actually tightening the correct rocker arms. Some people get confused, but you just have to look at where the roker lines up, is it with the intake manifold or the exhaust manifold?

I hate to tell you to start over again, but apparently something went wrong and the only way to be 100% sure that you got it right is to start from the beginning. If after this, you still can't get it to run, I would suggest taking it to a reputable shop in your area. I hate to tell people this, but you have been dealing with this same problem for over a year.

Hope this helps.
Jeff

 

I've adjsted the lifters like autozone.com says. The way you are telling me is similar but not word for word what my haynes manual said. I am not adjusting them at the same time.

I found top dead center and did just like you stated below, then rotated the engine and did the other lifters. What I think zero lash is and what is correct 0 lash must be different. The lack of experience and tutoring is causing most of my problems and the fact I am working with either used or old parts.

Do you think the motor will start with 145-150 psi on all cylinders? How I got a reading on the cyl with 0 psi is I backed them off a 1/4 turn and then wall la 150psi. I did the same (didn't turn all of them 1/4 turn) on the rest that were low and now have equal pressure. I've checked them agian and I have good psi on all cyl.

I have good spark, fuel pressure seems fine and the pump is working. I will put it back together without the covers on and see what I got. If it starts I will adjust them while it is running. If not I will start over.

I'd love to pay someone to do this crap but money is why I am on this site asking and asking. Practice makes perfect or something similar.

 

150 PSI should be enough to start the car.

I don't mean to discourage you with the "Take it it a pro" part, but unfortunatly there is a point where one's emchanical abilities and know-how at that time are just not enough to do what needs to be done.

All of us have been there at some point and I do encourage you to do as much work as possible, I just don't want you to get it to a point that something really bad happens. I don't personally know your skill level, but since this is an ongoing problem, I'm afraid that it might be a little on the heavy side for you without external help. Please don't take this the wrong way.

Just remember, if you decide to do it all over again, take it slow and be patient. Unless you're VERY familiar and seasoned at the operation, taking it too fast will hurt your results.

 

Micali, your making adjusting lifter pre-load much more complicated than it really is. My advice, don't worry about turning them 1/4, 1/2, 1 & 1/2 etc. etc., just yet, as the engine will most certainly run if their a tad loose. Back off the tension on every lifter, and start over again. With the valves CLOSED (do this in conjunction with crank rotation), tighten those rockers so that each and every one of them that you tighten down can be "wiggled" with your fingers (DON'T WORRY ABOUT THE FINAL TURN). Then, try to start the engine. If the engine does not fire, then the problem is NOT in your lifter pre-load....

 

2.point 8boy, I didn't take anything personal. Thanks for the info. I'll see what happens. thanks.