firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Third Gen turbo pipes
I am changing my setup and might be interested in selling some stuff...



These parts are on a 3rd gen Firebird.

1. Modified stock y-pipe routed under the k member to the turbo that will sit in front of the water pump. ($75 + shipping)

2. Down pipe that also goes under the k to the stock exhaust location (it is clamped now, so you can use it w/o welding) with mounting location for 38mm wastegate and has two o2 bungs (one for WB and the other for NB sensors) and will include a plug for the one not being used. ($75 + shipping)

3. If the price is right, I will sell the charge pipes and intercooler (including the connectors). They are on a Firebird and will fit a Camaro if the battery is on the driver's side (will modify to fit pass side for a small fee). ($200 as is or $230 modified to fit pass battery + shipping)

I will take $400 + shipping if you want it ALL and will throw in the oil pan with -10an bung welded in it for oil return

To finish the kit, you will need a turbo, wastegate, oil lines and BOV. If you bought the same turbo, etc as me you will need aprox another $400 in parts to finish the kit.

If you buy everything, there is no need for welding since the downpipe can be clamped to the stock exhaust (clamp included). The only thing needed to be done to the car is a 3" hole drilled in the location in the pics and two 3" hole drilled into the air dam.

Here are some photos as the system was being built. Since the time of the pics, the hot pipes have been painted with high temp flat black...

http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t...ojectfirebird/

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Hmm, I wonder what's up that sleeve of yours....

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Nothing secret. Forward facing headers and a bigger (and more vertical) intercooler going on the 3.4/3400 hybrid. Just wish I knew I was going to get a 3.4, I would have put on 3500 heads, lol.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

I actually just bought a t04e turbo today. Only One problem...I plan on running headers. Let me think this over and Ill get back to you.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

You already have the headers? I will seperate the parts if you don't need it all, just trying to offset the cost of building the FFheaders (ie cold side pipes).

BTW, if you don't buy any pipes from me, I can help you with the flanges on said turbo.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I have a set of SS headers from PF&E (they actually were the prototype). I could always get the y-pipe modified. But then Id have to have my car towed to the shop to have it done, because I dont have a welder nor do I know how to weld.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Don't know where you are, i would gladly help if you are near South Florida.

You wouldn't need a tow, get everything hooked up and bring it to the shop for the connection from the turbo to y-pipe. I could cut off the end of the y-pipe I have so it would only be one short run for them to do. You can draw your air through the turbo, just don't ever hook up the hot side to a turbo with no charge pipe attached (it will over rotate).

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

I wish I were anywhere near Florida. Im up in western PA.

grimmcs

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Here are 2 pics of the headers if you need them.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Grimmcs, the more I look at the y-pipe, the more I think it's going to be difficult to modify it to work. So I have to ask you before they get here: Are you going to mind if I hack up the y-pipe to make it work, or do you want me to make my y-pipe to fit the headers?

Also, if you read the "how to install a turbo" stickie, I used the same method as Dave as far as capping of the stock y and drilling into the driver's side. For a few extra bucks, I could remove this ugly bend and replace it with a nice 90*.

Hopefully I will get this stuff soon, because it would be really nioce to have the motor in the car when I do the mods to make sure everything will work perfect once you get it. My motor is potentially comming out by the end of the week and getting fresh crank, bearings and rings to go in 2.8rs's car.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Got the pipes today. Going to the beach tomorrow with my wife and four kids, don't know if I'll be able to start this weekend. The stupid city gave me a warning for not haveing bushes/fencing around my A/C unit. They were blown away by hurrican Wilma, then we have had a drought for the last 10mos so the new ones died, so the city is handing out citations, but won't let us water . Probably be fabbing by Wed. I will keep you posted with pics on this thread .

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good. Thats a lot quicker than I thought it would be done. Ill get you that address ASAP.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

When we got home from the beach, the kids took a nap and I got my y-pipe off and the headers bolted on. I am now about to start cutting your y-pipe and making the tack welds. I gave myself a shiner/cut when a bolt broke loose and the ratchet handle poped me good, just below my left eye (now you owe me for a 6 pack ). I'll get some pics in a little while...

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

The old pipe and manifolds came off, you won't have that ugly bend in there where I capped the "T" pipe, stock it's not even a "Y"



Passenger side header went on, you will have to get this one from underneath and remove the starter, then kind of wiggle it in there.


That's when I busted myself in the eye. I didn't want to turn on the compressor with the kids sleeping and hit it with a ratchet. I had the camera with me anyways, so I took a pic right after it happened, you should see it now, it looks like somebody gave me a right hook


Driver's side went on from the top. You will have to remove the oil filter, pressure sender, and the dipstick tube has to be unbolted from the head to go between the header primaries.


The flange was cut at the old weld and bolted to the collector


Then the other bends were cut at the welds to modify, then started tacking them back together


A view from the front, it is almost the same exact location as the old y-pipe


And the pipe sealed up. I know my welds aren't as pretty as the factory ones, but they wil hold

2.8RS

iTrader: (5)

Looks like the pipes are comming along nicely. So I guess that the motor isn't comming out for a few a while huh?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Nope, I only worked on the car for a couple of hours before the wife was yelling at me to come in and help with the kids while she started dinner . A few more hours and it should be wrapped up.

2.8RS

iTrader: (5)

Take as long as you need with the motor. Me= poor right now.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

NP. Maybe I'll put it back in the car and break it in for you .

Actually the guy should be taking the 3.4 out first week in Aug.

2.8RS

iTrader: (5)

I got till the end of August till I start school again, It's funny I'll would have had the car for about a year then and I'm already getting major work done.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

My car will have been with me for 1yr in Sept.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

At least it didnt hit you IN the eye...Than I would have had to buy you a case o' beer. But it looks good. The welds look fine, I could really care less what they look like as long as they work.


Was this directed my way?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

No 2.8 and I got off topic for a second. I was waiting to get your stuff done so I can pull the motor and rebuild it for his car. There is a rod knocking now and the headers are just kind of loosely bolted there. I actually used the long bolt that has the stud sticking out, and turned them backwards just to hold the headers in place. The stock bolts are way too long.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Thats cool just checking. Looking good so far. I get you that address and we'll talk about when to ship them and all that good stuff.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

You should see the shiner now! It's quite purple

noahTHEpurdy

iTrader: (1)

Earlier this year I hit myself in the face with a ratchet in the same manner and it knocked a tooth out. It sucked. Lol.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Sorry for the delay, I was trying to finish before the wife had her tumor'd kidney removed on Tue, but worked late into the night on Sun failing miserably. Her surgery went well, and she came home yesterday. I almost finished, but I missed my mark by a little bit (last pic). I'm going to try and finish up today, since I took today off as well. I will grind the welds a bit, and paint the pipes for you. The flanges on the headers are rusting a bit, they are probably mild steel, so they will get wire brushed as well.

Pass side flange ready for welding...


Tacked in place...




All sealed up and bolted back in place. I had the last angle a little wrong, and didn't want to start grinding again after 9pm...


The eye healed up fine, thanks for the beer

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Well, got the welding finished. Now it's on to some grinding and painting...



I also used some sewer elbows to mock up the intercooler mounted vertically. I will include them with the stuff (and the straight couplers), but I would suggest you get some quality 90* silicone connectors if you want to turn up the boost...

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

that came out nice man

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Thanks . I can't wait to get the new shop fully up and running. Maybe then you guys will see some of my real talents . Now I can finally start pulling the heads off the block, and bolt the 3500 heads on there to get my brackets, headers, etc fabed to fit in the car, then it's time to go fast. I'm hoping to be at least N/A by the Southern V6 Clash. Once the motor is finished, I'll need to work on some traction .

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Wow, looks good. I got 1 question though. Is the flywheel cover plastic? I knowticed that the pipe goes under it. I would check mine, but Im not around the car right now.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Aluminum. It's almost in the same position as it was, just turned the bend the other direction. The only place I would worry about is on the pass side, it comes close to the tranny cooler lines (also the way it was when I started), it probably would have been fine N/A, but the turbo may generate substantially more heat. A heat shield should remedy this. Also the 304SS is not as good as 316, and you probably will want to make some kind of bracket to help support the turbo, and I never made a bracket for the I/C. I figured I would let you decide on what mounting position, and it looks like a small piece of angle iron, or steel strap will take care of both.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Wouldnt the down pipe take a lot of the weight also? Ill have to take a look at it when the time comes.

Yeah I figured the flywheel cover wasnt plastic, but I had a brain fart and forgot it could have been aluminum.

And I guess I wont be able to put lowering springs on now.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

You can lower it. The lowest point is where it meets the stock exhaust (only is about .5" lower than stock).

Here is how it looks out of the car...









I also went ahead and painted the down pipe, but wanted to put it together out of the car in case you had any questions when installing it.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

It looks like those headers were made for that set up. This is going to kill me, not being able drive with it till next spring.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

I just realized I didn't give you a second o2 location. If you are going to use your stock ECM and sensor, then I need to put a bung somewhere in the y-pipe. There is already a location for a WB or heated o2, near where the stock location would be in the factory y-pipe.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

I can just relocate it right? If you were to put one in the stock are I would need a heated sensor too.
I was going to run an A/F gauge. Mabye I would need 2.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

If you want to put it where the bung is now, then you will need a heated sensor. Not a big deal, but I didn't want to spend the money, I was sending signal from my WB to the ECM. A NB AFR guage can be run off the same wire that's going to the ECM.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Well seeing how I can run both off the same sensor, dont worry about it. The one will work, no need to add more work.

noahTHEpurdy

iTrader: (1)

Amazing work bud! Have you thought of maybe making to sell kits like Dave?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

No, not really. I'll just sell stuff that I make for my car . I'm thinking of making a hybrid conversion kit, to make the 3x00 heads a bolt-on to the Gen1 60* blocks.

noahTHEpurdy

iTrader: (1)

That'd be awesome! All this stuff is so tempting to see.

I really really REALLY want to build a hybrid myself and run a single turbo setup, but two things holding me back. 1. My car is a Daily Driver (Turbo + Daily Driver I'm not so sure about.) and 2. I have no idea how to ever go about tuning it, and even if I run megasquirt, I would not have the slightest clue to tune it. (And I wouldn't settle for running on the stock ECU as I'm kind of a perfectionist, lol.)

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

The ECM could be included in a bolt-on . If you were to grab a memcal (chip) from a FWD V6, it would run fine . Basically the kit would include info as to what years/makes/models to get the donor parts from, then the custom parts that can't be salvaged from something. Or a full kit with everything included. This way, the people who don't have a lot of money won't be left out, it would depend on how much leg work YOU want to do. Information is free

noahTHEpurdy

iTrader: (1)

Hehehe, well, tuning after boost, etc. I'd deffinitely want to run something along the lines of megasquirt for ease of tweakablility, just that I have no idea how to tweak it, haha.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Read this a couple of times ...
http://www.megasquirt.info/

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Like adapters for the alt. and PS?
You like selling stuff I want/need dont you?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Well I figure if I'm going to make one, then...


The stock P/S, and A/C brackets will work for you (N/A or under-k pipes). Alternator will have to be custom.

The P/S bracket just needs a bolt hole enlarged/enlongated (just bolt it to the waterpump first, and rotate down. The A/C also just needs a little tweaking to work, but not where I need them to be . I've already designed the alt bracket, just got to cut it out of steel (probably will write a program, so duplicates will be easy).

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

I ripped out all my A/C crap. Found the leak after I started The nut on the back of the canister was loose. I saw the pic of the rough alt bracket you made. Does the pulley line up with the others? It looks like it sticks out farther. Mabye it was the angle

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

It currently actually sticks in closer to the head than it needs to be right now. That was to get the bolt pattern and shape decided. When I make it out of steel, I will press in some bushings to hold it the correct distance from the head.