that porche was sick, but i think the driver needs to work on his R/T that truck left on him hard... but i couldnt really see the tree.

 

Funny thing is, they actually converted that Porsche from AWD, to RWD. Both runs, the driver failed to light up the tires and was spinning terribly all the way down the track (sixty foot wasn't that good). That is a high 8 second Porsche, no doubt about it....

Aint's nothing our 60 degree V6 community should fear though....

 

Update.....

Preparing to make some much needed room for the turbo headers, and down-pipe(s), I eliminated the stock heater core tubing. In the first picture you will see just how much room this mod alone can make. In the second picture, you will see how I re-routed the heater core hosing to go directly to both the water pump, and the intake manifold. In the third pic you will see how I will be re-routing both hoses to run paralell with the drivers side valve cover, tuck in neatly behind the distributor, then up into the heater core inlets.....

 

looking good so far, i love how we have so much room to work with in these cars. haha i use to stand inside my engine when i was putting the new top end on.

 

nice rob but umm those heater hoses are in the way of the driver side header,well they can stay but will deff need a heat shield to protect them

the smog pump also needs to go so i can get the passenger side header,and down pipe in.

remind me tommorow if we go to the track to grab u an egr blockoff plate

 

The heater hoses aren't finished yet, they end (dangling) just over the front of the drivers side valve cover in the third pic (need to buy more hose). When they're routed to the back, they'll be running parallel with the drivers side valve cover, sandwiched/fastened betweent the valve cover, and the LIM. Nowhere near the turbo header....

 

how long before u get me those heads, im gonna take them out to a friend of mine's shop to be cnc'ed instead of me hand porting them.

i also need to talk to u or gasper about the cam,as im gonna drop in the larger intake/ex valves for ya but the chambers need to be reshaped a bit so base cr may drop upto .2-.4 depending on a few things

 

Need to get the original 3.1 w/5-speed out of the garage first, so I need the "BTA" to be able to run. Once the other car is taken out, I can park the project inside, and pull the heads....

 

I honestly wish the same can be said with the LS1 F-Body's. Recently finished swapping in a new set of plugs on my wife's '98 Trans Am, and even with the coil packs and air pump tubing removed, it was still a PITA....

 

yea my 2000 trans am gave me hell...those cars suck to work on! broke the oil pressure sending unit when putting the BBK manifold on...thank god for the 92 bird! gf wanted me to sell it when i got the trans am ..bitch..

 

^ Welcome aboard!

 

Update;

From what my cousin just told me over the phone, track conditions don't look so sweet for this evening. I was hoping to have a naturally aspirated base run for everybody posted later on tonight, but it looks like it's going to happen this coming Friday (weather permitting, of course). I should have a few more mods done and posted by then though.

Stay tuned....

 

want me to call the track? weather.com says its gonna be good just a tad cold out.
http://www.weather.com/weather/hourb...nav_undeclared
it sprinkled here for a quick min at the shop but it stoped within mins

 

Minor update;

Due to getting somewhat a little paranoid, cuz <cough cough> someone <cough cough> has a way of doing that lol, I altered one of the coolant hose routings. From the intake inlet, the hose now runs parellel with the passenger side valve cover. The water pump hose routing remains the same though. Raceway Park for tonight is still up in the air, as the rain looks as if it's ready to come down very hard soon...

 

lol man am i having BAD day.she just came to pick me up,we get not even 2 miles from the shop and we got pulled over for suspended regristration..
dmv suspended the reg cause they said the car had no insurance,and of course they didnt mail a letter stating this happened.quick call to the insurance company verified the insurance has never lapsed on the car.

blah so tom = a trip to dmv main office to strighten things out

yeah its been coudly all day,but its only a 10% chance of rain for tonight so it should all be good

 

Update;

Smog pump has officially been removed. Unbelievable amount of room is now prevalent on the passenger side....

 

With the smog pump now being removed, it is now mandatory to run a much shorter serpentine belt. The idea is to use the existing belt, wrap it around the pulley's as tight as you can (including the tensioner), then when your satisfied with the length, cut it as close to fit as possible. In the pic below you will see the existing belt cut, just how much was literally removed, and the now shorter belt "taped" heavily back together. There's obviously a reason for the tape....

 

With the belt being held in place with the tape, you'll now want to take a quick ride over to PepBoys, Autozone or Strauss, and have them match another belt w/the proper length for you. The final result will be as follows;

 

umm rob u need to reroute that belt. now the waterpump is turning backwards.
from the alt to the crank u shoudl go around the crank up over the water pump to the ps pump under the tensioner over the alt pulley

opps nm it is turning in the right direction but that belt will slip like that

 

wrap it this way

 

^ Definitely agree with you regarding the new routing of the belt, however, this required a much longer belt over the one I purchased (the one I went with is much to small for the above). Had to again use the original belt to size up a new one, which worked out to perfection. See pic;

 

that tensioner looks liek its barley has any presure on the belt i would get one about 1 inch shorter so the tensioner gets pulled up a lil more.

its a shame u cut up that non ac belt,i would have bought it from ya lol,quess it really dosent matter though im ditching my smog/idler pulley anyway, so i would have needed the shorter belt anyways

 

The serpentine belt barely got over the alternator pulley (with the alternator bolt removed, and alternator pushed forward). Once the belt was wrapped over the pulley, I had to "pry" the alternator back into position with a floor jack handle, then slip the bolt back into place. There's plenty of tension, trust me....

 

lol why didnt u just put a 15mm wrench on the tensioner and release it instead?

btw logs look like a go now that everything is all cleared out,but i need to take some measurements first to be sure

 

Lemme know if you want the part number for the belt....

 

Because that's how tight the belt is, the tensioner wasn't in place when I wrapped the belt over the alternator pulley. If anything, the belt might be too short already. But it's not, there's adequate play in it....

 

ill need a diff belt,my alt has a smaller pulley on it then ur 3.1 has.
btw check my other post i editied it
----------
hmm ok the position of ur tensioner got me, mine sits up much higher ill try to find a pic

 

hey anychance i can get u to wieght the smogpump and ac compressor?
wanna sww how much wieght ill be knocking off my new motor/car

 

I have an extra 3.1 alternator if you'd like, pulley included....

I'll weigh them later on today, need to run to New York briefly....

 

the alt on the car is a brand new 110 amp, i put the smaller pulley on on purpose to keep the alt spinning faster at idle for the stereo system,
i think i still have the stock sized pulley somewere,if i do ill swap it on

 

Smog-Pump w/brackets = 8 pounds

A/C Compressor w/brackets = 17 pounds

Total = 25 pounds

 

Preparing to install the Intercooler(s) soon. Not wanting to "hack" up the Banshee inspired nose clip, I decided to eventually remove the front support w/lighting underneath the bumper, and install two separate Intercoolers (similiar to the LS1 ProCharger kit's) right behind the two openings....

 

I wouldn't remove the front structural bumper if I were you. It holds the car together up there and supplies a lot of protection in case you run into something. Try to get an aluminum from bumper and/or remove the hood latch brackets and go to a pinned hood instead.

Tubular cross member or coil-over springs would save some weight too.

 

The front support is way too heavy, and in the way for my particular application. The front end would of course be reinforced in an entirely different fashion....

 

Update;

One is no longer a lonely number.

I was hoping to have a naturally aspirated run for you guys soon, but it looks like it's not going to happen though....

 

Well, coming from someone who just hit a speedway barrier (me) I would say while the weight is not needed, the strength certaintly is! You might be able to make a lighter one with tube huh?

What were you going to do with the manifolds? I forgot if you've mentioned. I just saw pics of a TT 350 where the cut the stock log manifold and added a flange. Puts the turbo right were the alternator sat. Looked cool and easy. Would you have any luck modifiying a FWD manifold?

 

Got a few people encouraging me to go w/turbo headers, but I'm liking the stock log manifold look, a lot. Passenger side will be relatively easy using this method, but the drivers side is a little too close for comfort though. Wanted them to be paired evenly, but it looks like the passenger side turbo will be along side of the valve cover, while the drivers side turbo will be where the A/C compressor used to be. Still need to see how the turbo header method looks completed, though....

 

Could you use a passenger side manifold upside down? I'm at work and don't have the parts in front of me. I think its the same though either way.

One more thing to try, I got tired of broken manifold bolts so I drilled/tapped my heads for 3/8" threaded rods. Might be worth it if you are going to hang a turbo off each manifold. Exhaust leak would be detrimental to your setup.

 

You can't turn 60* manifolds upside down, the ports are offset so you can only swap them from one side to another .

 

I'm glad your on it! Get some prelim picks up so we can all drool over it. My roommate is boosting his civic :rolls: and I may have to follow suit just so I can smoke him. We're a close race at the moment at N/A.

 

Just some minor updates;

Cruise control has been eliminated, as well as the bracket assembly connected to the drivers side exhaust manifold that held the fuel lines in place. Remember now, there's a reason for the bracket's removal. Also, the MAP sensor, as well as the coil assembly have been relocated behind the distributor, mounted on the firewall....

 

Thanks for the welcome!

 

Minor update;

EGR assembly has been tossed. Will be fabricating some block off plates out of some sheet-metal (as well as plugging up the exposed air tube inlet on the exhaust manfiold) that I had lying around for the plenum, and exhaust manifold very shortly. Disregard the stock coil, as I went with an aftermarket piece now residing on the firewall....

Looks like I'll be getting my NA base run after all. Strong possibility that Dave will have his '89 Camaro ready for this coming Wednesday, so it'll be, either, his boosted '89 vs my NA '92, or NA vs NA. Time will tell....

 

hey got a quick Q for you street leathal, does taking off the EGR mess up the vaccum or make the car run rough. cause i want to just take of mine and mkae two block off plates one at the header and the other on the intake. but what to do with the vaccum lines?

 

Blocking off the EGR will not make the engine idle rough. In fact, the EGR is disabled at WOT, then re-enabled at part throttle/idle. Plug up the vacuum lines, and install those block off plates. I left the ECM "connection" prevalent (acting as a buffer) just until I either install my MegaSquirt, or EBL. If you disconnect the EGR terminal connector, you'll throw an SES code, and it is this very code that will probabaly cause a stumble here and there at idle. You can always have someone disable the EGR in your PROM though....

 

awesome dude !

 

looks like its either gonna be na vs na or na vs turbo on my stock ecm, i still cant get my laptop to connect to my megasquirt for tunning.im starting to think its my shitty laptop

 

Got your message bro, I'm trying to contact my cousin Gaspar. If I can get ahold of him I'll bring him down, w/laptop in hand LOL, and he'll have you up and running....

Even with the stock ECM trying to control boost, your Camaro should destroy my NA Firebird, so worst case scenario, just hook the stocker back up, and enjoy the track.

Thanks man....

 

I'm sure you might have read this, but it's interesting nonetheless. It goes over every possible problem scenario with MS hookup....

Click Here....

 

i got it to work that car is running on the ms now, ive had the car idling outside for about 20 mins