z28b88

has anyone ever taken the cruise control out of the engine bay on a 2.8 mpfi?? it doesn't look like it is gonna be hard at all but i was just wondering if there is something specific i need to do?? anyone know?? help me out cause i don't want to do it and then relize i didn't do something right.....

sogabe

one thing for sure is that without it,
it wont toggle service light on,
caz mine the cruise control is not working(some wire
burnt off or somthin) and i dont have any problem nor
light coming on.

so just becareful with other parts while ur at it,
and snap off should be no prob.

z28b88

well im not sure if my service light even works but if something goes wrong w/ my car...hopefully i won't need a service light i will just be able to figure it out but if not someone will be able to lol...thanks for the help man...

Xophertony

to delete cruise control (no this wont cause an SES light, your computer does not know you have cruise control) complete the stepes below. i have done four differnt levels of deletion. go as far as you feel comfortable. level one is sufficiant and will make your engine bay look much cleaner.

level one:
see that wierd flying saucer next to your washer reservoir, yank it. leave the wires hanging (or tuck them away) and plug the smaller of the two vaccume lines. tuck away the trottle linkage.

level two. follow the small vaccume line to where it tees into another line, one end of this line goes to your vaccume canister "orb of power" located under your battery area inside the fender. the other goes to the plenum. remove all of this, canister, lines, everything, and plug the plenum barb. now all you have running off of engine vaccume is your brakes. follow the trottle linkage around and remove it from the linkage holder at the plenum. the unly way i was able to do this was to butcher the crap out of it's plastic retainer washer thing. discard cable.

NOTE: if you have a cammed engine or electric HVAC controlls this will not be possable. your brakes will need the vaccume canister if you are cammed and your HVAC is vaccume controlled if you have the electric kind. i have never seen a six with the electric kind

level three:
remove the lower hush pannal from your drivers side dash. look at the brake pedal, see that white box with the big hose going to it? yank it, and it's wires if it has any. remove any tape holding hose in place. push hose through it's hole in the firewall. go back to engine bay. along the drivers side frame rail there is a bundle of wires with tape. cut this open and remove the hose and CC wiring, retape remaining wires and put back in holder. discard hose. tuck wires away.

level four. "extremage":
follow those wires from the CC unit to throug to the inside of the car and pull through firewall. bundle up and tuck away. now pull the upper and lower hush pannals on the passanger side, you should see a box just below your map pocket that says "AC" in rounded letters, this is your cruise control control module, remove it and tuck the wires.

level five "insanity": pull your dash and entire intirior wire harness, remove all tape and remove all wires having to do with cruise control. retape and reinstall. your nuts BTW



depending on your level of completion you have disabled/removed all traces of your cruise control system. you will notice that i NEVER told you to cut any wires. if you are doing this mod for engine bay beutification i got you covered, if you are doing it for weight you don't need to pull the wires. there was a guy who stripped all the wires out of his harnesses that were unneeded (to run engine and guages only) and he shaved 11 pounds, you DON'T need to pull the wires.

i completed to level two and am verry happy with the way the engine bay looks. i have also relocated my washer fluid reservoir, but this gives you a good idea:

z28b88

thanks man that really helped alot...i noticed you took out your a/c too....what all do i have to do to get rid of that thing cause it doesn't even work and taken it out will get rid of some weight and add a few horses so what all do i need to do for that and if you already told someone how just give me the link...thanks alot

z28b88

SUCCESS!!! cruise control is gone... i went to level 3 of your instructions and it does look a little better under my hood with that stupid thing gone....but i still need help with the a/c delete

Xophertony

nice. i only went to step two, but in my deffense i did not know then what i know now. i learned most of this trying to
diagnose the cruise control on my GTA, which now works perfectly. right, onto the AC. my V6 came with no AC from
the factory. but i have done AC deletes on other cars. this is the same for V6 or V8 cars, carbed,
TBI or TPI. all the same. i'll lay it out as best as i can remember.

STEP ONE: to avoid a possable 25,000$ FINE you MUST take your AC system to an autherised service center to
be evacuated!!! when they talk about a hole in the Ozone layer it is because of refrigerants like R12 and R134A leaking
into the environment. this should be realy cheap/free. especialy if you tell them you will be back later in the week for
a recharge after you repair that leaking line or som other BS. DO NOT VENT REFRIGERENT INTO THE OPEN AIR! even if
your AC system does not work there WILL almost certainly still be refrigerant in the system. i can not stress this enough.
i like being outside without getting cancer.

ok once that is done it is time to go to the junkyard and pick up a non AC heater box. see photo above for what this
looks like. or you can leave your AC box and have a half finished project. your choice. you should not need a new belt
on a v-belt (pre-87 ?) car. on a serpantine car you will need a delete pully as well.

STEP TWO: unbolt radiator core support and set aside, pull back radiator so you can acces the big AC thing in
front of it (condensor?). cut or unbolt the hoses to it and remove. no remove all the leaves and dirt that were trapped
inbetween there preventing your radiator from getting cold air

STEP THREE unbolt AC compressor from it's bracketry and remove/cut hoses going to it. follow hoses to the
silvery can and remove the fittings attaching it to your heater box, remove it. you may have to pop off some retainer
clips to get all the hoses out. tuck any wires going to the compressor away.

SERPANTINE:install your "delete pully" in place of AC compressor. reattach belt.

if you are not removing your AC box at this time you are now done. enjoy your ugly engine bay kididng. it is still
cluttered but alot more clean.

STEP FOUR remove all the wire connectors going to your AC box. set aside, you will need most of these again.
undo all the bolts holding it in from this side, they are 10MM IIRC.

now go into the passanger cabin and remove the passanger side lower hush pannal. pull away the carpet. in the pad
you should see a small square flap. pull it back and remove the three 10MM screws from this side.

STEP FIVE wrestle the AC box out. it will probably be neccisary to remove the 9/32" screws holding the box
together and take it out in two pieces. if you are not planning on trying to sell it or somthing feel free to brake the
crap out of it. unlike the steel nonAC boxes this one is cheap fiberglass.

RETAIN: the four prong connection on the outside of the AC box! it will allow you to retain your four speeds of fan
oporation instad of the three the NON AC cars have by default. it removes with two 9/32" screws.

STEP SIX install your non-AC box. not all of the screws will be reused as this box is MUCH smaller (thus the baisis
of it's appeal). reinstall your AC fan speed resistor (the four prong thing). plug in the wires that will fit. some will not be re-use.
in an effort not to have hack-job crap in my car i tucked these away under the box. i don't like slashing wire.

STEP SEVEN open a beer/soda and put your intirior back together.

z28b88

hey thanks for the instructions on this too man but i only have one question...do i really need the ac delete pully?? can't i just take the whole thing out and get a smaller belt?? i've read a bunch of posts on here that say you can.... im also thinking about deleting the smog pump but thats later on...anyway main question delete pully?? really need it? or not? thanks for all your help...

Xophertony

hmmm... by looking at it i would think so... otherwise the tensioner would not be tensioning.... My GTA came with lvl one ac delete done by prior owner... only car i have all the way acdeleted was an lg4 camaro, vbelt. sorry.

z28b88

ok its all good i'll just use the delete pully....where can i get one and how much do they usually cost?? thanks

V6sucker

that is the reason they created R134a to be non damaging should it leak...

Xophertony

i have a real hard time beleaving that ANY refridgerant could be "non-damaging". less damaging sure, but nondamaging? ]i am almost posative it is still harmfull, but WAAAYYY less so. you could always call an AC shop and ask if it is ok to vent it... if they say no then do your children a favor and have it properly flushed. just my of course. i could be wrong....

to answer your question z28b88 you can get them at the junkyard, ebay, and the stealership. they are going to run $150 IIRC from the dealership NEW. i was damn lucky i got mine with the cost of my car. you may also want to try NAPA or schucks/checker/craiger and see if they sell them. they sell power steering pumps and amternators, might get lucky. i gotta be honest though, having never done this step i don't know what the best way to go about this would be. i don't know if they wear out or not...

good luck with your removals. you will notice increased gas mialage from this one for sure . might see a few HP also, but probably not enough to feel on the ole' but dyno. i am going to be deleting my AIR injection prety quick here and am excited to see if i get any MPG gains from it. i know it will affecxt my emmissions a little bit, but i should still be WAY under the bar. i am hoping the decreased load on the crank pully and the weight savings will add together to make a few miles differnce on the tank. probably not though. but my engine bay will be cleaner.

V6sucker

I did the air delete, and saw no noticable change in anything.
Maybe 1-2 miles a TANK, but that is hardly claimable.
As far as weight savings...
you are removing what? 10-15 Llbs? at most...

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

I know this thread is very old but these instructions sure helped. I went to level ~4.5. Turns out the previous owner cut the wires so a lot of my stuff easily came out of the dash. I suppose that's also why my cruise never worked when I got my car.

One thing that will help to eliminate any confusion would be pictures. I would add some, but seeing as how butchered my wiring is I probably wouldn't be the best example.