puntank4200

iTrader: (1)

I let my girlfriend drive my car, when she comes back she says its making a noise. I checked and it had no oil in it, under the car is a puddle of oil. Apparently she hit a median and ripped the drain plug out and put a nice split in the pan.

Anybody ever replaced their pan without removing the engine. I read that I can take out the mounts, remove the distributor cover and jack up the engine. I don't have an engine crane, so where can I jack up the motor? Do I have to mess with the trans mount at all? I don't want any leaks, should I use rtv to provide an extra seal?

Firebreed

Well, I dont advise doing it the way i did, It was the only way i was able to, and i Did not have access to a cherry picker/engine hoist, or anybody who had one. Since i had the v-belt, instead of serptine, i used the bottom pullies, to jack up the engine, with a bottle jack, but make sure you have a jack that DOESNT leak..

Also, my struts/springs for being stock were still like brand new, i had to weigh downt the body to get enough of a lift on the engine to get the pan out.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

I lifted my engine a few weeks ago to replace the oil pump.

I fully removed the dizzy. Pulled motor mounts, and just the one bolt on the trans mount. Dx the exhaust, Jacked engine up on the pan. Weddged MANY blocks of wood between the 2 sections of the motor mounts. Did my work, then lowered it back down. Had to do a little "prying" to wiggle the engine back in place. Bolted it up and done.

Advise, never let the woman drive the car again.

Denis.V

Same for me (mi wife in my FWD car)........

Well,

My reply is: yes, you can without removing the engine.
(I replaced motor mounts into a RWD car & oil pan into a FWD car).
Basic procedure was the same according with technical manuals.

1.- Unbolt motor mounts and other similar "powertrain to chassis" atachments.
2.- Lift complete powertrain with jack + woods.
3.- Check for free engine movements when lift it. Be care with radiator hoses, wires, battery cables, etc. and other motor/tranny mounts.
4.- Unbolt the oil pan (I used 10 mm. socket).
5.- Weld the "hole" in the oil pan (I paid around US$4 + bus to shop + bus to my home).
6.- Replace oil pan gasket (yes, I used grey RTV)
7.- Then, the most difficult: With your head under the engine and oil in your face, check torque specifications for all bolts that you see (I replaced timing chain set too).
8.- Put oil pan with gasket, bolts, etc.
9.- Put engine in position and bolt motor mounts and all parts as necessary.

(10.5.- At this time, you can show to your woman your greased face, hands, t-shirt and hair as black as possible for "information purposes" )

10.- If you use RTV, wait 24 hours for starting engine.
11.- Now, you can put the new oil.

12.- Check for leaks (I didn't have leaks: UUFFF!).

Regards,
Denis V.

hotshotcamaro

don't forget the 12 pack of beer and box of bandaids for when you get pissed off

puntank4200

iTrader: (1)

7.- Then, the most difficult: With your head under the engine and oil in your face, check torque specifications for all bolts that you see (I replaced timing chain set too).

Did you check the torque spec of the pan bolts or the mains? Does anyone know the exact torque specs.

Denis.V

All bolts at interior of the engine that you can see (oil pump, crankshaft, etc., rotating crankshaft in order to align every bolt position with the large socket).

Torque spec: Do a "search"

TomP

LOL!

But, first things first... you should try to see if the engine is still in working condition. Imagine going thru all that work to change the pan and finding out your motor is junk because the mains are torn up and the camshaft is seized.

My $0.02 "guess" would be to use JB weld to seal up the oil pan crack/hole, fill it with cheap oil, and see if the motor still runs. If it runs, THEN change the oil pan (don't drive with the JB weld, of course). And if it doesn't run, start going shopping for another engine.

puntank4200

iTrader: (1)

I did JB weld it, weird. I replaced the oil it ran fine, no noise. Its a daily driver so I had to drive it till I get a new pan. After I pull the pan will I visually be able to tell if the there was damage done to the mains? If they are toast does that mean new engine or can they be fixed without overhauling?

PS. Does anyone know if a 3.1 pan will fit a 2.8??????