rough idle
#1
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rough idle
I hope I dont get booted off for this being a question about a 95 camaro, but I used to have a 85 and 91 camaro and you guys were so helpful.
I got a 95 now, its a 3.4 6cyl. a couple of months ago the car started shaking a little at stop lights hardly noticiable. Now the car shakes alot noticibly and it sputters away as I increase the gas. the car does it after the car is warmed up. Also when I try to give it alot of gas it kind of hesitates. The weird thing is it started doing it intermittely and now its doing it all the time. I cleaned the IAC and the check engine light isnt coming on. I tryed to pull the codes but the ALDL has 16 connectors its an 0bd 1 but the connector was for OBd2 (I read GM put the OBD 2 connector eventhough its not). I changed the plugs,oxygen sensors and catalytic convertor are new. Could this be the fuel filter?
I got a 95 now, its a 3.4 6cyl. a couple of months ago the car started shaking a little at stop lights hardly noticiable. Now the car shakes alot noticibly and it sputters away as I increase the gas. the car does it after the car is warmed up. Also when I try to give it alot of gas it kind of hesitates. The weird thing is it started doing it intermittely and now its doing it all the time. I cleaned the IAC and the check engine light isnt coming on. I tryed to pull the codes but the ALDL has 16 connectors its an 0bd 1 but the connector was for OBd2 (I read GM put the OBD 2 connector eventhough its not). I changed the plugs,oxygen sensors and catalytic convertor are new. Could this be the fuel filter?
Last edited by immortal; 04-27-2006 at 03:19 PM.
#2
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Car: 1987 Camaro
Engine: 3.4 Liter
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: stock
Don't know if you have a Maf sensor but I changed the one on my truck and it stopped. It was doing the same thing yours is doing now.
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Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
change the fuel filter, it should be done anyways, also check the plug wires cap and rotor and see if they arcing( do it at night with no light around if you see blue sparks thats the problem), also make sure the coolant temp sensor is good.
i had similar problems to your car, never had an ses light pop up, changed the cts on a hunch, and the car never ran better
hope this helps, if not theirs a few other things to check but start with this
i had similar problems to your car, never had an ses light pop up, changed the cts on a hunch, and the car never ran better
hope this helps, if not theirs a few other things to check but start with this
#7
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Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
Check the rest of the ignition system (wires mainly), and be sure to chcek for VACUUM LEAKS. Start with the free simple things first, then work your way up to MAF/MAP and stuff like that.
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#8
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Car: 1987 Camaro SC
Engine: 2.8L MPFI (rebuilt)
Transmission: 700R4 swapped to T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open
We had a '95 v6 Camaro. Those things are notorious for burning spark plug wires on the exhaust. If the wire is stiff or brittle, replace it. Had to change the wires twice before we finally caught on and used heat shields on them.
#10
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I checked the wires and they seem o.k.. I also changed the fuel filter and no change. It use to be when the car warmed up the car would shake now at a cold start it shakes. I went to Auto zone and their OBD II reader doesnt read my codes and they dont offer oBd I. My car has the OBD II connection but it is a obd 1 set up, i even tried the paper clip mehod but I dont think it works on this car, I just wonder if it is storing any codes. As far as a vaccuum leak I dont really see any rubber hoses any where and the ones I did see seemed o.k. this problem started out small and intermittetly and know it is doing it all the time. Any other suggestion on what to check?
#11
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
This is just a wild guess... but that car is DIS, right? (Distributorless ignition) If the crank sensor (pokes into the engine block and reads notches from the crankshaft's center counterweight) gets a crack in it, then the car will run fine when cold. As the engine warms up, the crack gets bigger, and the crank sensor can't read a clean signal anymore.
It may be just your crank sensor... but I don't know where it would be on your car (or how much they charge for a new one). Oh, hey, here we go... partsamerica.com wants about $30 for one. (go to partsamerica.com, click on replacement parts, then 95, chevy, camaro, 3.4 liter, and go under the sensors catagory for crank position sensor)
So for $30 you may want to try it. Or, buy it, take the old one out, then dust the old one's outside case with baby powder and rub it in. If a crack shows up, replace it.. if not, put the old one back in and take the new one back to the store.
It may be just your crank sensor... but I don't know where it would be on your car (or how much they charge for a new one). Oh, hey, here we go... partsamerica.com wants about $30 for one. (go to partsamerica.com, click on replacement parts, then 95, chevy, camaro, 3.4 liter, and go under the sensors catagory for crank position sensor)
So for $30 you may want to try it. Or, buy it, take the old one out, then dust the old one's outside case with baby powder and rub it in. If a crack shows up, replace it.. if not, put the old one back in and take the new one back to the store.
#13
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Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
Spray carb cleaner around the intake area, if the idle smooths out, there's your problem.
If you have a CKP problem(crank sensor), the car won't worth crap. The CKP is the only RPM source for the computer, so if that has a problem, you'll be seriously misfiring all thet time.
If the Check Engine Light doesn't come on, there won't be any codes stored.
If you have a CKP problem(crank sensor), the car won't worth crap. The CKP is the only RPM source for the computer, so if that has a problem, you'll be seriously misfiring all thet time.
If the Check Engine Light doesn't come on, there won't be any codes stored.
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Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
Originally Posted by immortal
the idle is not totally crappy I can still drive the car it just idles rough. any other suggestions on what I should check?
#16
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Car: 1991 RS
Engine: 90' TPI 305
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: posi disc 3.23's
could the ckp sensor cause the car to choke and sputter all around the rpm range and make the tach bounce around?
but work at idle?
but work at idle?
#17
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Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
Originally Posted by Zion
could the ckp sensor cause the car to choke and sputter all around the rpm range and make the tach bounce around?
but work at idle?
but work at idle?
#19
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there is no distributor on your 3.4, it has distributorless ignition (DIS). you have 3 coil packs that bolt onto your ignition control module. and i thought the 3.4 used a cam position sensor, its in front of the intake, when most of us do the 3.4 swap we just snip the wires coming off it since we dont need it.
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Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
Originally Posted by drdave88
there is no distributor on your 3.4, it has distributorless ignition (DIS). you have 3 coil packs that bolt onto your ignition control module. and i thought the 3.4 used a cam position sensor, its in front of the intake, when most of us do the 3.4 swap we just snip the wires coming off it since we dont need it.
Originally Posted by Zion
is there any way to check it?
do i need a new dizzy to change it?
do i need a new dizzy to change it?
#21
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just to make sure you get all the right info, id check out FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com - Your V6 Performance Source! or FullThrottleV6.com -- The V6 F-Body, W-Body, and N-Body Tech Source and make sure. we know our dizzys round here, but id go there, all those guys have the setup youve got and are looking for answers on.
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