Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Well, it's happened AGAIN. I have lost my IAC driver in my ECM. It was working fine just last week, but now I get no noise from the IAC (tells me its working) when I turn the key off. I have three different ECM's and TWO now do this. My alternator wiring has recently been repaired (someone had it hooked up to the A/C relay wiring instead of replacing the FAN fuse ) and the alt produces 14.5 VDC at idle. If I replace the IAC, the same thing happens. I just put a good IAC pigtail in place of my broken factory one a few months back, and I KNOW that is good because I have checked it with my DMM.
I have lately been having cold idle problems and believe that the IAC is stuck open. I have yet to check this, however, since my mystery vacuum leak (ported vacuum only) has come back.

WTF is up with my ECM's?

xplane

Mine was doing that to the fan chip i went through 2 of them one a remaned and one a Jyard one then i got a nother one from the Jyard and it has yet to doit again goin on 6 months. its not the same as a IAC but my point is i think these ECUs just have a high failure rate.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Getting a code 33. Is this high or low flow rate from my MAF? If it's high, that may be understandable (3.1 instead of 2.8)... This is killing my idle quality and my gas mileage along with it, along with my 0-whatever acceleration.

BTW, I have found that the 3.1 requires AC/D R43 series plugs. Can using R42's be causing my missing problem?

Doward

If they are carbon'd up, then yes, they can

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I just checked the plugs a few days ago. They are fine, tan insulator with a little gray on the center electrode. Believe me, I know what carboned plugs look like (the 2.8 never did run anywhere near normal or lean) and these aren't that way.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Okay, let me ask this:

What kills ECM's?

xplane

any thing that sends to much juce or causes to much draw from the ecu will fry it. thats why your supposed to have fuses. also NEVER EVER run the car with the battery unhooked this WILL fry an ecu in short order. mine fryed just unhooking the battery to see if the alt was working but it may take more such as driving the car if your ecu is Newer or mabe a bit more robust. i have seen this on my car as stated above, a ford taurus(SP?) (Bad battery), a dodge grand caravan X2 (my bro who did it to my car did it to his van TWICE), and a 2000 suburban. i dont know why but it does. i think it has to do the same as with a line leveler for a normal PC if the current jumps or drops to low it will mess it up. the battery provides the juice in a stable clean amount but the alt will vary.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

Think all my car problems was the ECM as well.