ShinZ

Ok, first off, I have an 87 firebird with a 2.8 MFPI V6...now my problem. A couple days ago, the battery died on my car, no big deal, fixed that problem (again). Now, it won't even idle, it starts up fine everytime but will only idle to about 500 RPM and die shortly thereafter unless i'm holding the gas down. So far, aside from Code 12, all I get is Code 34, I've checked all the vacuum lines, and all of them check out good. I've tried the tapping on the MAP sensor, I've cleaned ALL the contacts on the MAF and MAP sensor's and still, the problem persists. I'm really hoping my MAP sensor isn't bad, due to money problems...so I'm hoping someone here might have a suggestion on what else I can look for or check out that might be the cause of my problem.

Also, sorry for the spelling or grammar, it's 8:30 am, not enough coffee in the system yet. And yes, I did use search, didn't help me a whole lot...but it gave me and idea where to start...

86BLUEBIRD

u only have a MAF sensor. not MAP sensor on the 2.8. that didnt come in until the 3.1. make sure all the ducting from ur intake is properly attached and there r no holes or cracks anywhere. that is where the code 34 is coming in. dont know about the code 12. it says that it is for speed reference pulse. good luck

RTFC

Is the engine looping or puslsating when it is trying to idle that low without you helping hold the gas down?

If so then change your EGR valve. It will cause the motor to stumble and die if it is stuck open at idle.

ShinZ

No pulsating or looping...just firing up, a knock or two (which is normal as i've come to find) then an idle for about 5-10 second at 500 RPM (normal sound, no rough idle, no jumping up or down...just idle) then it dies. It won't stay running for more then a few seconds. THe fuel pump is good, and working. The only thing is, i smell fuel when i give it gas to keep it running (which is the only way i can keep it running). I assume if it's not a problem with the MAF, it's an injector problem, which i should probably clean them up a bit...so, any suggestions on cleaning those would be much appreciated.

kretos

if you have time, pull them and send them off to rich at www.cruzinperformance.com

ShinZ

Thanks...but I don't think i wanna send my Injectors to MI...seeing as how I live in Oklahoma City, OK....this board has been extremely helpful though, there's not lot of people with 80's Firebird's around the OKC area...so I don't get squat for help.

87blueracr

give it a tune up, replace the egr valve and reset the idle, also try the throttle position sensor if it is blowing black(rich) smoke

ShinZ

No smoke yet, thankfully....never did smoke. However, due to some random act of *** the thing actaully fired up, and after giving it some gas, it maintained it's usual 1k rpm idle speed. For a while at least...then it died again. Also, something is sucking the life outta my battery apperantly...i know there's a screw that the alternator and other wires ground to under the air can...i took that and polished it up as well as all the connectors...but it still seems like something is draining it...i've checked everything numerous time and i've narrowed it down to it being something grounded poorly under that air can...anyone have any suggestions as to where else i could ground those wires?

87blueracr

anywhere that it can touch the subframe and it is bare metal! try checking the alternator! sounds like a bad alternator

ShinZ

Alternator's brand new, if it's going bad in less then a month, i'm gonna have a few words of choice with some people....either way, tomarrow i'll probably ground the wires somewhere else, consider the screw their on right now is actaully just a screw that IS NOT touching the frame...it's just mounted into a piece of plastic...nice job GM...good thing I keep a dremel handy, cause i know just the place to mount a new bolt for grounding.



Also, anyone familiar with that large black plastic "box" over the radiator? Yeah, seems the part of it that connects to the MAF tube is almost completly fallen off...

RTFC

If you have one, Put a volt meter onto the battery terminals with the car off (aprox 13 volts, mine actually reads 12.96volts).

Then with the car running at idle or revving when the car is warm and nothing is drawing current the battery terminals will read 14.45volts from the alt & reg adding current.

Doward

DEAR *** NO!! That bolt, if it is the one I am thinking of (next to the battery) is NOT a ground!! It's the central location of the wiring harness, to KEEP GROUND AWAY from the positive side!!

As far as your idle problems, pull your cap/rotor, inspect them, and unbolt the ignition control module. Take it in to Autozone, have it tested.

Doward

Also, have the battery and altenator tested. I recommend removing each (battery first) and bringing them in to be tested.

ShinZ

Hehe...actaully no that screw is NOT near the battery, it's on the front passenger side, battery is on the driver side, so no chance of mixing those up. Cap and rotor are brand new too, (I went on a bit of a buying spree to get this car up and running) but i'll check those out just in case, i normally would have, but i seem to get sidetracked a lot as of late (pregnant wife, go figure) either way, i figure one of my problems stems from the large gaping wound in the "box". Which gives me a reason to re-do my intake into something more functional and not such a trainwreck as the stock setup. As for the voltmeter...don't have one anymore, seems people like to run off with my stuff..but i'm sure i can find someone to loan me one. Autozone, is where i bought my alternator, so if it's fubard, they get to replace it for free since i caughed up extra for a lifetime warrenty. At least you guy's have helped me out in a pretty quick manner, i really need to have this car running again by Tue's so i got a ride to work...plus, for some reason, even though this car has left me stranded numerous times and cost me quite a bit, i love the damn thing...dunno why.

mory

I had a problem with my car starting and dying when I first got it. It turned out to be the Intake Mainifold gaskets were bad. If this is any help you may want to see if that could be your problem.

yupitsdadsbird

ok if you get the car d**n near oper temp it should idle. my mominlaws car is a 87 cutlass fwd does the same thing and has for like 3 years now and she wont put any money in it. the intake tube was bad so she fixed that .......problem is it still gives the 34 code.......sooooooooo. it may still do it even it he fixes the tube

ShinZ

Everythings in running order now, very very rarely does it seem to "choke" like it was doing. Only problem now....the damn battery has a dead cell and won't hold charge. Other then that, seems I got everything back to normal without spending a dime.

87blueracr

wow, sounds like you got a big big bug.

86BLUEBIRD

didnt u just replace the battery? if its going bad that fast u may have something on all the time that u dont know about. a light, alarm system, something drawing on the battery. if u have an aftermarket alarm u may wanna have it checked out. or go out at night and look around and see if there r any lights that u can notice. it happens sometimes(though not very often)

KED85

How many amp outpt is the alternator.
I say bad alternator
I say bad wiring
I say also bad coil/weak.
Your problem is spark power.
New rebuilt alternators do go bad. My "new rebuilt at $115 Alt" fried 6 ICMs before I figured the "new rebuilt" alternator was the problem.
These cars need 100% alternator power spark output to perform proper.
IF those two things not performing proper you will get "codes thrown" because those "other items" REACTING to poor power output & poor engine operation.

ShinZ

Brand new plugs and wires.
Brand new coil
Brand new alternator
Old battery with 2 dead cells.


The last one is my problem, i've checked out all the wiring in the damn thing, cleaned all the grounds up...the battery just sucks, i put in a good battery from another car and it didn't drain it a bit. So, lucky me, the battery is just crap.

KED85

How much AMP out put from alternator?