JamesY

Ok tried to search but the damn 2.8L and 3.4L is under the limit so I get a bunch of results for swap but nothing for the engine size, BLAH.

Few questions, if theyve been answered in other threads just post up a link to it please.

1. Besides the possible fan switch that is mounted in the block, what else NEEDS to be changed?

2. What years/makes/models of cars with 3.4's will drop right into an 86 2.8L? I'm trying to make this as easy as possible for the mechanic to do as I dont have tools or time anymore to do it myself.

3. Double checking this one, my igniton that I just bought new will work on the 3.4 no problem right?

4. 700r4 mounts up to the 3.4 no problem, just if I go 4.3 I have the bell housing issue, correct?

5. Should I be using a 3.4 computer over a 2.8L or just get the 2.8L tuned? I have heard the fuel mapping and such may be different but for $100 I could also have it professionally tuned, compared to $100 for still stock ECU.

6. Wiring harness doesn't need to be changed does it?

I might think of more questions later, if you don't know wtf your talking about or are coming here to bitch then dont post, I tried looking for the 3.4 threads but am having a hard time finding some quality information.


Thanks

KED85

I wrote the tech thread
All your answers are in there.
BUT
EACH SWAP IS SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT
Each year vehicle may have something slightly different
That said, 90% of everything from original vehicle engine will fit onto the 3.4 you choose to insert under your hood.
Details is all is needed to make the swap work as well as it can.
1993-1995 F Body is the donor engine ya seek, as completly dressed as ya can score.
Mandatory is the 3.4 injectors & balancer & flywheel.
Once both engines out & side by side, only THEN can you EXACTLY deteremine what is to be swapped over or not disturbed.
Original vehicle donor engine ignition, induction system, exhaust & oil filter housing is used & installed onto the 3.4.
As the dummy system back up I suggest utilizing the original vehicle engine timing cover & oil pan, too.
Add ALL new sensors you can get your hands on, it pays off in long run.
Get the original vehicle engine complete rebuild gasket kit.
It's a bloody simple yet very detailed swap that makes the whole package work well.
If you are using the 3.4 as a choice for winning every race, junk the car & buy a V8 powered ride.
Of atleast 100 plus swappers I've coached, so far only one unhappy with end results.
4.3 NEVER were factory installed V6 options in FBody. No your tranny as of now is not used fo a 4.3 swap.
Original vehicle ECM works perfect with a 3.4 under the hood cause ya using orignal vehicle sensors & induction/ingition system. Only adding 3.4 injectors to the mix.
Ya hooking original vehicle wiring harness back to same old original vehicle induction/ignition system. No change, only patches if needed.
Expect to spend one whole day dealing with cracked vacuum lines & patching of said hoses. Vacuum leaks will ruin a decent mechanical engine swap in an instant. Expect teething pains of gremilins after the swap.
I've done two swaps & very pleased with results. Gone over 20,000 miles after boogin to the swap & worth every mile.
Expect to pay for the labor & the donor engine.
If ya get a 3.4 cheap expect to pay for the rebuilding of said 3.4.
Get lowest milage complete intact 3.4 ya can find.
That's a 3.4 under there.
Make finished product looking exactly like what ya started with & ya attained the goal.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

I think Karl has that response on speed type, or at lest the text saved so he can just copy & paste

KED85

Nah, I wing it!
And that's pretty much how I accomplished my first successful swap into the Firebird. Prior to that success I had four engine swap "failures" (due to something).
Some should be happy there are others who help chip in when a cry for help is read.
It makes the swap go easier.
Boogie ON!

Dale

iTrader: (12)

get a 3.4 from a 93-95 f-body.

Strip it down to block, crank, heads, cam, piston, rockers, lifters.

On the right rear head, remove the damn plug from it.

See the knock sensor by the motor mount on right side? Move it to that plug down by the starter. Take that plug and put it where the knock sensor was.

Install new timing chain.

Then install your 2.8 timing chain cover, oil pan, 3 sections of intake, fuel rail, exhaust manifolds, any engine accessorys(ps, alt, ac, smog, etc). You will have to re-set your rocker/valve lash adjustment due to intake gaskets. Search for a thread by me about a year ago on this (if it didnt get deleted in server crash).

Use the 3.4 injectors AND harmonic balanacer, rather then your 2.8 ones.

You DO NOT mess with your engine harness or ecm at all.

Yes, bell housings match up.

Since you have an 86, you will need to make sure that you have a auto flexplate from a 3.4(or 3.1). your current 86 plate is balanced to the 2.8, it will cause problems on your new 3.4

JamesY

Thanks for all the info.

I was thinking of the 4.3's out of the S10s and Blazers (90* V6 instead of 60*) was just wondering if its possible, if not then meh, no biggy.

Nah I'm not going with this for performancce although I will get mroe juice out of this then my dead 2.8L

The whole reason I'm doing this swap is because my 2.8L is screwed so I'd have to replace with another 2.8L, why not go a few ci's up and grab a 3.4 if it isn't too difficult to do.

My mechanic will be doing most of the work, although I will be putting soem of the new sensors on and moving **** around since I can buy the engine through work then use my tools at work with the sensors I order though work aswell, the rest of the stuff like oilpan and such will have to be done when the 2.8L is out.

I already got new Timing Chain gasket and Water Pump gasket, what else is included in those complete gasket kits that i need?

Could you post a link up to your thread KED, I can't find it.

How easy is dropping in a new cam when the engine is installed? I've never done a cam before so if it would be worth my while to do it while the engine is out then i would do that to prevent me having to take it out a few months down the road after I installed it.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

2.8~3.4 swap boogie

Dale

iTrader: (12)

cam would be just prob another hours worth of work I guess? Your well over half way their anyway.

If you got the time to find the one that suits your needs, and cash to pay for it. Now is wise time, correct.

Honestly, only hard part of the swap is getting the plug outta the head.

You will need everything BUT the head gaskets from a "rebuild gasket set" Get it!

KED85

The cam as in the 3.4 is damn decent.
Buying the lowest milage engine does the best to help you not have to rebuild or hop up, due to how fresh is the to be swapped in mill.
The 3.4 as is a damn decent performer. Adding headers dose make more ommph! Ya know!
IF all other systems are fresh, rebuilt, tight, or new, you'll have many miles of smiles & not seek "more".
Because IF ya really want "more", NOW is the time to buy that V8 ride.
Because you will be happier if you really want "more".
Serious a swap job is gonna run ya like a good grand easily. For starters. Your labor? Nope!
Pick up any auto trader & see how much is a decent V8 powered third gen.
The swap is effort, no doubt.
It's up to you to spend your money wisely.
Think about this before ya spend any more money on that broke engine in a that car.
Thinking is cheap!
Spending on a mistake costs ya.
I did my swap due to several factors.
It's "easy" to swap in a V8 under these hoods.
Yet me in CA, I'd have to go thru some hoops for smog refs. The 3.4 is a no brainer cake walk easy to do swap using 90% of original vehicle parts & no one at smog test know or "can tell"! I g thru smog with a breeze behind me, it's so seamless a presentation of a "nice running original 2.8 in a 1985 Firebrd for smog test, yep!"
As is, I owned a decent rust free highly desired ride & handling packaged (F41/Y99) car, I bought dirt cheap.
I blew the engine.
My deal was either I spend more money & rebuild this original vehicle 6 or upgrade to more power, less effort or dump the car.
I really really enjoyed my 1985 Firebird.
Ya gotta love your car to do this swap.
Or else ya got into the car for dirt cheap (I paid $300 for my car with a rebuilt tranny already in it).
Again,
I really really enjoyed my 1985 Firebird.
That's why I kept it invested in it because
Ya gotta REALLY love your car to do this swap.
Think strongly before ya open the wallet on this swap.
It may be better to buy another car right now. A V8 powered ride. THIRD GEN OF COURSE!
What was the matter with the starter issue?

JamesY

Cheap thirdgen V8s are a hard by around here, nothign less then 4g it seems. If it is less then 4g, the body is worse then this one.

This body is actualy pretty good, besides the rear quarter on drivers side which I might be fixing in June when I go viist my cousin who has done a few restos. The intertior is just about perfect on it.

Just spent a ton of money on ignition and fuel system, just under $600 CDN I figure I think, actually probably aroudn $400, the rest was towing and other ****.

The car was $600 to begin with, not bad.

The probably with doing a v8 swap, is everyone has "tutorials" and "tips" yet no one has USEFUL informative information, its all tidbits and tidbits. If I went and bought a v8, that new iginition I bought, now useless, the fuel system I just upgraded, well I got to either had a better fuel pressure regulator, or rip it out for a mechanical pump on the block as i wouldn't bother with an EFI v8.

This is my first car so I have nothing else to love more or love less then the Camaro, so basically I probably wont get rid of it until I get tired of it, I love sinking money into things anyways, but I Need a car, yes NEED, parents are tired of driving around, gf is getting harder to get the van to visit as she doesnt have a car, have to ****ing wait for parents to go somewhere or do something, use them to goto work and get home, bus for school (****ty) so basically I've had enough of a non-working car.

I just bought insurance and registration, if I bought a 3.4 did a few things like the sensors and such, dropped it off at the shop, came back in 2 days it would be done, I could pay and drive it home, which is what I want. I don't want to start a v8 swap and then end up with no money, half a car, no working car, and it stuck in a shop because i can't pay my exsisting bill with them.

If I call him up and say can you do a v8 swap on it, and he says sure can and gives me a quote on it, then I may do it if it equals the same as the 3.4, but the thing with the b8 swap is that I would need basically new everything on it, which means sure the engine may only cost me $200 or so, but all the new accessories and hoses and regulators and ignition is going to bump that up majorly, then mounts, then labour, then the fluids and such, gaskets, broken bolts and nuts and ****, new exhaust. Would turn the sweet $200 v8 swap deal into a $2000 v8 swap from my experience and investigation. That is why I will probably stick witht he 3.4.

I can call around the junkyards and suppliers in Calgary, order them through work, get them delivered to work, maybe even cheaper then walking in and buying one. I get all the sensors and **** just about store cost. If I pay part of the bill my boss will let me pay him off slowly so I can pay for the other shop to do the labour work and drive it home, then slowly pay my boss off.

I've taken some notes at work and printed off that article, I will probably type up another mechanic list and then start getting prices and see if the 3.4 is worth it. I figure, if I do most of the engine **** myself, leave a little for him, the labour is going to be about the same for the 2.8 as it would for the 3.4 and I would have more displacement, little more power, better fuel efficency not that I care, so yah. Thats my philosphiy. I'm not in it for power, Im in it to have this thign working.

JamesY

Ok...

www.jamesyedon.info/Personal/2.8to3.4.doc

Does that look like most of the correct information?

www.jamesyedon.info/Personal/CAMARO.doc

is the format I use for the mechanics before, eliminates time for ****ing around and doing **** I have already done, saves me money

Let me know if that swap sheet has anything wrong or I need to add, I think I got all of it.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

very close. One thing I forgot, the gasket that goes between block and oil filter housing is GM only. (far as I know). It doesnt come in the rebuild set (that I know of). Buy full engine set and check before going to gm.

Will need to use 2.8 oil filter mount as well (forgot to mention that one)

When swapping in the lower 1/3 of the intake, it requries valve lash adjustment anyway. But I mentioned it as some dont know that you do have to. Keep pushrods in the place you remove them from. They "wear to match".

In the right head, it is not a sensor that needs to be removed, it is a plug. It must be removed to install a sensor. That plug is a BITCH.

I belive that the 2.8 takes different spark plugs then 3.4. Make sure you have new set of 3.4 plugs.

Tap on freeze plugs, make sure they are solid (mine were tad rusty)

3.4 will have two sensors that are not needed. Most people just leave them in place. One is on right bottom side (crank sensor), one is up top front (cam sensor).

If you buy the motor, you could strip it your self, possibly install new timing chain yourself and swap knock sensor/plug around. Then drop stripped motor off to your mechanic and say "install this". It would save you a bit of money, and possibly confusion on his end as I doubt he would know the difference between the two engines. Sell leftover parts on ebay

If you install the lower intake yourself, double torque everything. (meaning, do book pattern/specs, then go back over and check it again)

KED85

I haven't checked it.
I offered about everything one could run into and again every swap is unique & personal.
Using the information I've offered, ya should do very very well.
Again I had NO HELP like this when I did my swap and even my second swap was going into new territory (How to plan for that electic fuel pump needed for a 3.4 block in a mechanical fuel pump vehicle).
Don't expect the job done in two days.
Expect more like 2 weeks, as in be real.
If ya in a time crunch, plan B better be good!
Again one will not know EVERY detail until the two engines are side by side and the swapping back & forth of parts, "I can do this instead" is apparent.
I say get a full on engine gasket rebuild kit due to it's about same cost as "each" gasket. BUT a full on gasket kit probably will not contain the GM Rear Main Seal nor the GM Rear Cam Shaft seal.
Don't forget as ya go engine shopping to also score the PS Pump (it fits & again it's only 10 years newer than your current one) & starter (spare parts!) & again 3.4 balancer, fuel injector & flywheel or flexplate.
Don't forget new timing chain AND new tensioner.
AND also balancer snout repair sleeve (only $4!). Ask for one for a 2.8 as it fits the 3.4 balancer perfectly.
How is the tranny? as in nearly every swapper goes thru their tranny months after the swap.
Why?
Torque.

JamesY

Thanks updating with that info.

So knock sensor goes to plug hole in head and plug goes to hole by starter, now I'm just confused

JamesY

Well if I do some of the engine work myself, less he will have to do, he said 8-10 hours, 8 hours in a work day depending on how quick he is too, considering our shop can rebuidl 2 trannys on the same car and test drive within a week, I think dropping an engine in should be relatively easy once the work is done if the wiring is the same.

Don't know how the tranny is since I've never driven this car working . But I am actually growing fond of stick for screwing around in at work, so if I turn this into my toy then I will go 5spd once I blow the auto. But I would like my cruiser done before that, which I may turn this into my cruiser, so only time will tell.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

NO!!!!

Plug in head needs to be removed for fan sensor switch, in your current engine.


Plug down by starter needs to be removed for knock sensor. You will need to re-plug the hole where the knock sensor was otherwise coolent will pour out of it.

KED85

In the circle is the hole with the recessed block plug.
This is job one.
After this part the rest of the swap is "literally" a piece of cake.
This is removed to insert the necessary factory original vehicle fan sensor switch.
First time removal took me over a 1/2 hour and with help and a torch. It was made white hot to remove and the tanks were sized 4 foot tall.
Second time took me an hour another person & another torch.
One person got it out with no sweat!
That knock sensor deal. Mines removed & it was a dead end hole. I had no need to block it off with a plug.
Like I've said, each swap is slightly different. Yet engineering wise is a very bloody detailed swap.
Once blocks side by side is only then can you truly know what's involved. A Guide has been offered.
Your time line, is ambitious.
Have you solved the starting issue using the key, yet?
Have you rebuilt your distributor yet using new parts?
Do you know if your current timing cover is corroded (due to previous ownership lack of care & just using water instead of anti-freeze?) and not usable?
Agian expect teething pains & the vacuum hose set up takes the longest amount of time to accomplish.
Why?
Every plastic line you touch will break!
Buy extra gasket parts due to ya can return them if not needed, but you'll have them on hand.
The recessed blocked plug size is 5/16".
I used combination of screwdriver and "fitting" to remove, twice. The "fitting" was worthless. A real tool is available from sources like Snap On, et al.
If you cannot score a good runing engine it'll have to be rebuilt. That takes time, also.

In this pic (I just discovered) is rear cam shaft cover. Behind there goes the new gasket. This pic is from the swap I did into my 1985 S-10 Blazer and yep that's the 2SE carb set up. This 3.4 fits all types of induction systems designed for the 60* V6. Also shown is the distributor plug removal for inserting the original vehicle distributor. Buy TWO of those o-rings. One is used on the oil filter housing bolt! And don't forget to get yourself a small block Chevy distributor gakset. Why?
Ya use that in conjunction with the new o-ring on distributor to assure a "virtually leak free" oil leak back there. Cost of this gasket is only $1!
Not shown is the wonderful to replace Engine vacuum source. For your PVC system. One needs a SHORT THICK WALLED SECTION OF HALF INCH HEATER CORE HOSE to feed PVC plastic hose line.
Seek out 1986 V6 FBody vacuum hose schematic for being your best friend!

JamesY

Yes distributor was rebuilt when I bought the parts
Timing cover was ok
Vacuum lines, well thats why its nice in a shop when you got rolls of all sizes a few steps away, no need to go out and buy new ones everytime u break them
Ofcourse I am ambitious about the time, if you arent he will take a month because you aren't in a rush. He himself said 8-10 but call me for a closer quote, so whether its 8, 10 or 12, thats still only 2 days work once everything is setup right, a week is PLENTY of time for a Mechanic working 8 hour days to get this **** done, I'm not paying for a week of him having the car but using only 2 days of the build, I'm paying him to get the engine in and working, sooner he does it, sooner he gets a nice chunk of change. Aswell, the shop its at right now is just a community shop, nothign big, they are neevr really busy from what I can tell jsut because they arent a big shop, the shop I work at we are booking a week ahead of time to do most jobs, then if the swap took 2 weeks, that gives me a week to test and test so I know it won't die on me on my way half way accross the country.
I won't settle for something high milage engine wise. I will be clalign every junkyard and place our shop knows of to get engines from to get a low milage, if that doesn't work, I'll start calling areas around us. If I was going to rebuild, I could save myself time and money by rebuilding this thing, I'm not buying another engine to rebuild aswell then install totally differantly and waste more money, makes no sense.
I don't see the block plug being to much of an issue with an impact but I am sure he will find an easy way to get it out.

Thanks Dale, I got it now

Project: 85 2.8 bird

E-bay might be your best friend in finding the 3.4's. Also try firebirdv6.com. There is usually someone parting out their 93~95 car for an Ellis Juan swap.

JamesY

Don't have time for EBay, my payments take 10 days then shipping time too, and cost.

KED85

Good luck wiht it.
We'll be hearing from ya, surely.
But ya got the basics, until ya score the engine.
I've paid $800 & $900 for my 3.4s
Average is $500
Lowest was $210.

JamesY

Thats US too.

I know one junkyard I can goto, $150 for the engine, probbaly around $70 for all the little exras if they notice them, but they are an older style junkyard, not as much newer except for the odd one.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

THat $210 of mine also involved a 12hr round trip. Still, it pays to cal around. Local yards around here wanted $550 at the time.

Happy Hunting

JamesY

Well I got the parts guy at my shop going to help me, plus I'll call a few places. I could even go up to Edmotnon *3 hour drive* if it was worth it as I have a cabin half way there so yah. We will see, I will keep everyone posted.

I'm finializing my list right nwo trying to make more sense of it and easier I will update it when I get it changed then you guys can correct my incorrect information.

JamesY

Ok updated my list, KED could you check it over since you've done a few of these swaps already and could provide some insight.

Thanks all, I'm just checking EBay right now for the hell of it, a guy at work uses his CC for buying his old Fairlane parts so if I found one I really wanted I could give him cash and he would probably buy it for me.

JamesY

oooo just noticed something

When I was searching online for engines through a junkyard site, the 95's have a 3.8L option aswell, would that work or only 3.4?

Dale

iTrader: (12)

in 95, some got the 3.8 because of emissions. No it wont work, its same class as a 4.3l.

camaro350man

only 3.4, the 3.8 you have much more work to do, although it has been done

Dale

iTrader: (12)

JamesY

Thats the old one...

Things To Do

- Move ignition from 2.8L to 3.4L
- Move intake and exhaust from 2.8L to 3.4L
- Move oil filter housing from 2.8L to 3.4L
- Move oil filter mount from 2.8L to 3.4L
- Move timing chain cover and oil pan from 2.8L to 3.4L
- Install any new sensors
- Move any more needed sensors that aren’t new from 2.8L to 3.4L
- Remove fan sensor from right rear head of 2.8L and move to 3.4L
- Check freeze plugs
- Remove knock sensors near motor mount and re-install down by the starter
- Move sensor that came from the starter area to the old knock sensor spot
- Re-set rocker/valve lash adjustments
- Replace broken/incorrect bolts
- Check motor mounts (if shot, buy new)
- Replace any broken vacuum lines



That better?

Project: 85 2.8 bird

The exhasut maniflds will not need to be touched on the 3.4

also, move motor mount brackets from 2.8 to 3.4



edited, nevermiond, thinking of pass side knock sensor on 3.4

KED85

And again
Many other details will be observed and necessary.
But again you got the basics.
One removes the cylinder head block plug in the 3.4 to install a new fan sensor. This is done first SO the engine can be tugged/pulled, whatever for ease of plug removal. And that 3.4 intake is a great place on which to hold while doing this part!
The current 3.4 exhaust manifold need not be touched. Mate right up to the original vehicle exhaust pipes. Leave the 3.4 Oxy sensors alone, they make great plugs for those holes in the manifolds.
Have any excess 3.4 wire left on engine (sensors) just tied off and not hitting any hot parts.
Also try to grab the engine frame mounts off the FBody from where comes the engine. They are 10 years younger than your current ones & fit easily.
And mate to the original vehicle motor mounts (swapped onto the 3.4 mill).
Again alot if not ALL of these details will become apparent when things are apart and side by side.
I don't see the balancer repair sleeve listed. $4 part.

JamesY

I checked the price on that part last week and it was $12 retail which means i can probably order it through work for yah $4 or $5.

Ok I'll note the exhaust manifolds, the headers dont matter much right now, basically the only reason I will get him to hook them up is so I dont burn everything in the engine, I;m going to be getting some headers here right after and a new exhaust i have currently have none right now

I might just look into new motor mounts, I won't be pulling this engine myself from either car, otherwise I would be installing it myself aswell, so therefor I have no choice if I can get them or not. They aren't expensive anyways.

KED85

The MOTOR FRAME MOUNTS are rubber sectioned.
The MOTOR MOUNTS are THICK steel bent to shape.
The ones that wear are on the frame of car.
And those "don't wear out" & you'll get them for free when ya score the mill. And again they are 10 years younger than your current ones.
You may be surprised how much some items can cost, which is why I say score these when ya buy the long block. Free spare parts to chose best of everything for this seamless swap is great option.

JamesY

If I get it then great, but if I don't I was looking into the motor mounts before and they were only $34 retail for 3 so we will see. Now time to find an engine and wait.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

I'm suprised Karl didn't mention this before, but sell all your old parts to make up some of the swap cost

JamesY

I probably won't I'm a junkie I keep everything, I still got some of my old fuel system

Project: 85 2.8 bird

yeah, I still have a few 2.8 specific parts lying around too

JamesY

Ok also forgot, If I can't scrap up any 3.4's, what kind of 3.1's am I looking for? Year/Model/make?

drdave88

iTrader: (3)

you need a 3.1 from a 90-92 camaro or firebird. i cant think of anything else that came with it. a 3.4 shouldnt be that hard to find. i got mine off of ebay for $700ish shipped from florida to michigan and it only had 57,000 miles on it. that was the ENTIRE thing, wire harness, PCM, A/C, P/S, i mean everything. check there too if theres nothing in you area, like my situation was.

JamesY

I checked ebay already, nothing right now

KED85

If ya wanna ship one from LA, CA I got plenty for ya.

JamesY

How much you want for an engine? Trades?
I got an idea for shipping so if you wanna PM me your address and info then I can try a few different ways and we might have ourselves a deal.

Were talking 3.4's or 3.1's here?

Tomorrow is my engine hunting day so I will be on the phone for awhile so if I don't come up with anything then I may take you up on your offer.

KED85

Here's what I can offer ya
Keep reading
I paid $800 & $900 for my low milage 3.4s, complete.
Shipping to CANADA FROM LA, CA IS GONNA COST YA mucho!
NOW there are some who have scored on ebay &
I suggest ya keep trying
Including "locally searching"!
Bummer part is this sounds like the "only ride for yourself".
Take away that time crunch.
Find another car for the time being and keep up the search!
AND
Any time it rains I'll bet ya may find a 3.4 powered F Body ride in the yard!
Remember the 3.4 powered rides were made in Canada GM factory. They got to be some up there!
Shipping from LA, CA will cost ya mucho dinero!
Try to find a 3.4 powered F Body for cheap. That may work out well too! Lots of rusted out cars & still good engines right?
Keep searching!
1993 to 1995 F Body is your goal.
Or again in end ya may find this mission wiser by dumping the current car to just get another car.
No shame in that decision.

JamesY

Well my gf bought an Integra today, lets me drive it, sometimes , but yah so it wont be AS bad, but I don't think I will get rid of this Camaro till Iget it running, but I may bring it home, switch jobs, use my tools and my buddies hoist and do the swap myself, save labour which I can spend on a cam and TB or something.

My shipping idea is sending it to the I think FedEx or UPS or somethign office, just below the Canada boarder (how the **** u spell that), which avoids all those ****ing duties and wait time and ****, I know a few guys hwo have done it and saved cash, they drive accross the boarder and pick it up themselves, might work out not too bad, thats why if u wanna send me ur info I can check out some prices and if it is worth it and u want to get rid of one and I cant find one over the next few days then we can do it.

KED85

Recently, I asked for another person.
It was $900. Low milage 3.4
Plus shipping up north.
IF you have buddies in the area you are thinking of picking up said 3.4 (just north of the border) please ask them as the 3.4 will be so much less expensive that way.
But this is the price I can tell ya right now. Lower prices end up being a core.
Keep searching and take away the time crunch.
Gotta realize that 3.4s rebuilt now are going for $1800 or more. There are no more crate engines.
Are you close by the St. Teressa (?) build plant of the F Body?

JamesY

I'm taking that is the one in Quebec or Ontario, which is a no, thats the otherside of the country. I could get to LA before I could get there.

KED85

Keep seaching locally
And
Expand your search to Oregon, Montana, Idaho, Washington state, North Dakota.
You'll score!
Try engine rebuilders, too. See what sources they have.
Try local car insurance companies. See if they have good leads for recent car wrecking yards.
You'll score!
Other people up north in Canada have found them. And at fair prices, too.
To me my prices were fair due to I had no rebuilding of the long block I bought. Just opened hood, said ahh and closed hood and drove away.
You'll accomplish that too with the 3.4 long block engine ya score.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...977813152&rd=1

mayb e ship to this side of border & p/u truck back across?

JamesY

Saw that but its got a ****load of miles on it.