hey...i posted this on the brake board to no avail...i figured the v6 board is always the place to go cause every piece of information i've recieved here has been helpful...so i'll just paste what i wrote there to here...

Well...I haven't written here in sometime...I've had my 'Bird off the road for about 6 months...i put all new pads...shoes...rotors...drums and backing plates about a month ago...i went to replace a caliper today that had been sticking...while bleeding the front calipers my rear brake line burst...it is the one that runs across the differential and supplies the drivers side rear wheel...because the lines are old and rusty with the car being an 85 and dealing with New England winters I figure to replace all the lines...my question is are the complete brake line kits that companies sell completely bent and ready to go...and by complete is that all the lines i'm gonna need...thanx for the help....

 

there are pre-bent lines available out there. If you can afford them, do it. Yeah, I bent mine, but I had more time than $$$$$

 

There are SO MANY sources for the brake lines
IN ALL HONESTY
You should EASILY be able to score one local to you.

 

http://www.classictube.com is one of them. You can even get "just" the rear axle lines. Even better, you can get all of their lines in stainless steel!

I've bent a few lines myself, too... not too hard. Auto parts stores usually sell pre-flared lengths of tubing. Measure your original one with a string, then measure the string, so you know how long you need. Then call around and find a store that has them. Remember you need METRIC fittings/flares! The flares are technically called "ISO flares" but are commonly called "bubble flares".

(You don't want SAE/standard fittings with double flares. That's for pre-84 GM cars.)

I got mine from Pep Boys- they had a rack in the back, by the tires, with lengths of pre-flared tube. The ones I bought for the rear axle were hung in the rack as "foreign/import lines", and had light blue fittings. I think the longest line I bought was only $5... short ones were a few bux. Then I bought their cheapie tube bender for $5.

But when I went to Pep Boys a year ago, the rack was empty except for one badly bent-up SAE-flared line. So Pep Boys might not be the best option anymore; I guess it depends on the store.

Oh and you probably won't get the exact length, a little longer is ok because you can add extra twists and loops to make the line the length you need.

And the "gravel guard" spring thing wrapped around the factory lines... yeah it's nice to have but you don't need it; a pre-flared tube won't come with it.

If you want to flare your own lines, you'll need to buy an ISO tube flare tool; all I could find locally to rent OR buy were the SAE double-flare tools.

 

If you want to make the drive to Tucson , I not only sell these
lines, but I have a bender that I'd loan ya!

 

Or if you have any good salvage yards you could always go get one there... though being up North they will all probably be in similar condition! But no bending and the right length!

Not sure, are 4th gen rear lines the same?

 

i ordered myself 2 new rear axle lines from finelines inc...figured just go brand new...and for 33 bucks shipped...i'm not gonna complain...with school and work i don't have much time right now to sit there and bend them and flare them and all...so i figured some pre-bent direct fit ones were the way to go...thanx for the help though guys...much appreciated...

 

Having done something like this on my 1974 Corvette.....
When ya get the box it will be small.....
The line is bent and inserted in the box.
Due to the gravel guard on the line, you can safely unfold it for your work.
You will discover that you also need remove original brackets & also the junction block & then assemble, for installation on your ride.
At the same time you do this I do strongly suggest you get a new rubber back axle hose.
ALSO be prepared for new rear wheel brake cylinders. And at same time insert into this mix new drum spring kit. Your back brake system will then be totally rebuilt.
Alot of effort BUT the stopping power you'll now regain is so impressive.
AND IF ya not to sure about any of this gather ALL the mentioned parts & get it installed, along with fresh DOT 4 Valvoline synthetic brake fluid (with a 500* boiling point!). Regular DOT 3 is super low 350* boiling point range! And the Valvoline stuff is no true extra cost (it's nearly the same cost as DOT 3!) to purchase.
PS those damn rear wheel brake cylinders.. they held in by a metal push ring. SO HARD to remove that ring for removal of the current wheel cyliners but so easy to reinstall!

 

karl...let me tell you something...brand new 2 piece backing plates...brand new shoes...brand new brake hardware...got 2 new wheel cylinders i couldn't use with the old brake lines...the fitting wouldn't allow...the new ones might...if i need to install new wheel cylinders...two piece backing plate easily comes off...and the new wheel cylinders installed...but thanx for the tips...i may or may not put that new rubber hose in...my view is if its working...don't touch it...cuase i've touched working stuff before to install new stuff...and then things happen...but the whole brake system is practically new...excpet for the lines...thanx again...

let me add this...whats the easiest way to flush my brake system...its been 20 years and could probably use it...thanx again...

 

My Corvette went thru 11 previous owners and back east Iowa winters before it came out west in 1981.
My system looked like yours.
My car was off the street for 6 months due to bad braking system.
I had to replace so much seasoned abused stuff.
The hose is important. It's part of all the new stuff and honest it's one of the weaker links in a braking system.
Think of those rubber hoses as your socks.
I mean how long can a sock still "look good" but feel comfortable? And socks lose their stretch and comfort, just like an old brake hose.
Meaning an old brake hose can burst as can a a sock wear out & have a hole.
I replaced mine after never being done (from 1985) and the solid pedal feel is wonderful. Yes, it's a chore but you're gonna be back there and it's necessary.
Bleeding.
Get a friend.
A patient friend
NEVER
use your Wife or Girlfriend. They haven't the patience.
Also get a turkey baster from a grocery store.
That'll allow ya to suck out & wipe clean the master brake cylinder container.
Be aware that container can crack as so can the lid clips after several opening and closings.
Pour in the fresh fluids. Keep fluid in there while bleeding brakes. Important detail.
The bleeder screws I believe are 10mm.
Process is back passenger, then back driver, then front passenger then front driver is very good way to bleed system correctly.
The cheapest auto insurance is the best working braking system you can have on your car.

 

well karl...your good at convincing...i suppose while i'm in there i'll put that new rubber in...and yes...it was actually my girlfriend helping me bleed the brakes when the line burst...she picked up on a loud popping noise when the line blew...i didn't think of it and wrote it off until i looked in the back and saw a small swimming pool of brake fluid...master cylinder cap is in good shape...i'm pretty sure i put a new one on at one point...maybe when i changed the master cylinder some years back...you think this job will take me a long time...just installation...bleeding is just a neccessary part of it...i'm gonna go and search for that hose now...thanx again...hopefully my lines come in this week and i can get to work...actually...what part should i be searching for when it comes to that rubber hose...

you know something...i just thought of it...when i traced my broken line it supplied the drivers side wheel cylinder...and i traced it into a rubber hose...is that what i'm replacing...or do the two lines supplying the wheel cylinders go into the block or pumpkin if you will and thats where the rubber hose comes into...

 

or do the two lines supplying the wheel cylinders go into the block or pumpkin if you will and thats where the rubber hose comes into...

EXACTLY!

From front of car, follow hard line to the junction/distribution block on top of axle. It's the rubber line that goes to that block.
BE PREPARED for a search.
I had a devil of a time getting the correct rubber hose for the rear axle brakes.
Rear axle brake parts I let someone else (labor) do it due to whole system had to be bled, had it done same time. I learned the first time I dealt with a bad rear wheel cylinder on that car. I passed the job due to that damn clip for brake wheel cylinders. Was money well spent.
Cause I replaced (my labor) the hose front lines, much easier work for me.