Clutch or Throwout bearing?
#1
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Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 2.8 Lt
Transmission: 5 Spd
Clutch or Throwout bearing?
Which do you think? My car is giving me a hard time when shifting into gears. It got stuck into 1 st last night. I got it out when I came to a stop. Then 3rd gear is harder to get into latly. Sometimes it makes an odd noise when i stop, like a wining noise and I can here it threw the shifter. Its a WC T-5. Could I just be low on tranny fluid? I doubt it, but will check. What clutch would you recommand if I have to change it? Thanks again
Now I have two posts going, what a pain in the a** this is getting to be!
Now I have two posts going, what a pain in the a** this is getting to be!
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Car: 83' Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: T5
When my throwout bearin went bad, I had a hard time getting into gears. The trans worked somewhat when it was cold, but after maybe 3-10 minutes of driving shifting was very difficult. And it got worse until you could not drive it, at least not without raping the trans.
I could also hear a very small noise when I put my clutch in, "whirrinrg" like something was rubbing against a spinning object.
I could also hear a very small noise when I put my clutch in, "whirrinrg" like something was rubbing against a spinning object.
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IF Correct you have a hydrualic set up master cylinder activating the TO Bearing.
When the TO Bearing goes, you'll know it
WHILE BACK THERE replace the rear cam gasket & also the rear main seal.
BOTH ITEMS wear out and cause leaks.
I'd try double clutching into third or before shifting, let up slightly on gas pedal. Less strain that way.
PS Ya can change gears without a clutch operational.
It's fun!
Converse is, make sure you do have a good battery to restart car at intersections! As to move ya need engine off to engage first gear!
When the TO Bearing goes, you'll know it
WHILE BACK THERE replace the rear cam gasket & also the rear main seal.
BOTH ITEMS wear out and cause leaks.
I'd try double clutching into third or before shifting, let up slightly on gas pedal. Less strain that way.
PS Ya can change gears without a clutch operational.
It's fun!
Converse is, make sure you do have a good battery to restart car at intersections! As to move ya need engine off to engage first gear!
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Car: 99 SS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Your throwout bearing is starting to go. I drove my S-10 for a year after the throwout bearing started to go. I don't recommend that because like KED85 said, you'll know when it goes. Still haven't fixed it in my S-10, but I don't have to worry about it anymore. Traded it for a '71 Jag. (Putting a chevy engine in of course.)
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Car: 83' Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: T5
Shifting with out the clutch is fun..........but the tranny itself might not agree.
Also, remeber to change the pilot bearing. It's at the end of the crankshaft, behind the flywheel. Flywheel resurfacing is also recommended.
Also, remeber to change the pilot bearing. It's at the end of the crankshaft, behind the flywheel. Flywheel resurfacing is also recommended.
#6
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Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 2.8 Lt
Transmission: 5 Spd
Not really what i wanted to here. Way to much crap going on and now this. Not a good deal. What clutch do you guys recommand me looking into? I was something that will hold up if I get a 3.4 or mod the 2.8. Something where I can pop the clutch every now and then and not have to worry about it. I figure if I have to drop the tranny I will do the clutch at the same time. Easy to do the clutches in these cars? It a daily driver so i know I will be down a car for a bit. Any suggestions would be great.
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That's easy!
Go spec out a 3.4 5 speed application
Wouldn't be surprised IF it's same part number as a 2.8 application!
Phone several sources for their brands & costs.
IN END, probably you'll get a rebuilt unit that's just fine.
BUT GET THOSE TWO SEALS! NOW! They are special order & extremely mandatory!
Cost for these two seals is like $15 or less.
Don't be surprised if ya hear made in foreign country applications. Asbestos is the reason why.
Go spec out a 3.4 5 speed application
Wouldn't be surprised IF it's same part number as a 2.8 application!
Phone several sources for their brands & costs.
IN END, probably you'll get a rebuilt unit that's just fine.
BUT GET THOSE TWO SEALS! NOW! They are special order & extremely mandatory!
Cost for these two seals is like $15 or less.
Don't be surprised if ya hear made in foreign country applications. Asbestos is the reason why.
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Car: 83' Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: T5
Just get centerforce package. Dualforce is the best, but the one thats between stock and dualforce is good too. Get both pressure plate and clutch disc and of course the TO bearing. Cost about 200-300 bucks I think.
When removing tranny:
1. If you're not going to lift/tilt your engine etc. then remove the tranny from the bellhousing first, then remove bellhousing. The bolts around the bellhousing/engine are really really really really difficult to get off with the tranny in place.
2. When installing TO bearing to the clutchfork be careful! The little steel "nails" have to be installed correctly or the clutch won't work 100% right. Ask for someone to post the famous picture.
3. When installing the clutch disc use a clutch alignment tool. Will make installing the tranny a lot easier.
4. Don't get oil on the clutch disc.
5. Get the puller for the pilot bearing.
6. This operation will be a pain in the *** and it will require other special things depending on how high the car is supported etc. So if this seems too hard, get it done by a a shop.
8. re-installing and pulling the tranny out is a little hard. It has to be supported at the exact right height/angle for it to go in/out. Make some kind of lifting device. I used two small jacks bolted to some wood thingies.
Haynes manual is handy. Most of this is covered there.
When removing tranny:
1. If you're not going to lift/tilt your engine etc. then remove the tranny from the bellhousing first, then remove bellhousing. The bolts around the bellhousing/engine are really really really really difficult to get off with the tranny in place.
2. When installing TO bearing to the clutchfork be careful! The little steel "nails" have to be installed correctly or the clutch won't work 100% right. Ask for someone to post the famous picture.
3. When installing the clutch disc use a clutch alignment tool. Will make installing the tranny a lot easier.
4. Don't get oil on the clutch disc.
5. Get the puller for the pilot bearing.
6. This operation will be a pain in the *** and it will require other special things depending on how high the car is supported etc. So if this seems too hard, get it done by a a shop.
8. re-installing and pulling the tranny out is a little hard. It has to be supported at the exact right height/angle for it to go in/out. Make some kind of lifting device. I used two small jacks bolted to some wood thingies.
Haynes manual is handy. Most of this is covered there.
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Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
How many miles on it???
Have you ever check or changed the fluid in the tranny???
At 204,000 miles my T5 went out. it had made noise in 3rd for a while. One day it got stuck in 5th. Thought the same as you.
Thought I had things fixed. It then got stuck in 4th. and wonkered my slave cylinder. The sucker over extened and blew out the seals.
$125 later and a good used tranny. Problems gone.
BTW it is possible to start off in 5th.
Its not easy but it can be done.
4th was much easier the 2nd time.
Have you ever check or changed the fluid in the tranny???
At 204,000 miles my T5 went out. it had made noise in 3rd for a while. One day it got stuck in 5th. Thought the same as you.
Thought I had things fixed. It then got stuck in 4th. and wonkered my slave cylinder. The sucker over extened and blew out the seals.
$125 later and a good used tranny. Problems gone.
BTW it is possible to start off in 5th.
Its not easy but it can be done.
4th was much easier the 2nd time.
Last edited by Gumby; 03-22-2005 at 03:49 PM.
#10
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Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
Im having the exact same problem as you. I just pulled my tranny and am about to pull the bellhousing, but i cant afford a new clutch yet
heres some pics if they would help at all
heres some pics if they would help at all
#11
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Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 2.8 Lt
Transmission: 5 Spd
Thanks guys, very nice pictures. Keep them coming. It seems to only give me trouble once in a while in 3rd gear. Other then that its okay. I'm assuming its on its way out however. The clutch still grabs with no problems, will spin the tires all night. I'm going to check the tranny fluid tomorrow.
(Ked85) Are you saying I have to get a 3.4 clutch assembly if I want to do the 3.4 swap later? Don't I just get a 2.8 clutch? I think i will need a 3.4 flywheel however.
(molopaa) I have to do it because I can afford to have a shop work on it right now. I hope I should be able to do it.
How much for the dual centerforce clutch?
Thanks
(Ked85) Are you saying I have to get a 3.4 clutch assembly if I want to do the 3.4 swap later? Don't I just get a 2.8 clutch? I think i will need a 3.4 flywheel however.
(molopaa) I have to do it because I can afford to have a shop work on it right now. I hope I should be able to do it.
How much for the dual centerforce clutch?
Thanks
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Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
I remember when I decided the clutch job was past due. If I let the clutch out just the slightest bit too fast, the car wouldn't go anywhere and the clutch would just spin away on the flywheel and pressure plate for a few seconds while trying to get a grip. And then there was the shifting. Most of the time I couldn't get it into first unless the car was off (and even then it didn't always work... imagine sitting in gridlock for long periods with the clutch in). Second and third gear were no picnic either. I did the pressure plate/clutch plate/throwout bearing/flywheel resurface and a new pilot bearing and it works really well now except it's almost to the point where I can't get it into reverse anymore.
I did my clutch job with the front and rear wheels on ramps. It was a little difficult.
I did my clutch job with the front and rear wheels on ramps. It was a little difficult.
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Car: 83' Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: T5
Originally posted by camaro_junkie
I did my clutch job with the front and rear wheels on ramps. It was a little difficult.
I did my clutch job with the front and rear wheels on ramps. It was a little difficult.
#15
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im finishing up my centerforce installation this week. just gotta get the trans and driveshaft, etc back in. yes even if you get a 3.4, you use a 2.8 clutch because the splines on the input shaft of the trans are different. unless you get a trans out of a 3.4, but i do believe there are differences between the two, i just cant remember what. make sure you replace that pilot bushing, or youll be regretting it later. easiest way is a chisel and hammer. break the thing into 4 pieces. lots of people recommend packing the hole w/ grease and driving it out hydraulically, but that didnt work at all for me.
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For the flywheel, YEP a 3.4 version is MUCHO NECESSARIO!
BUT specing your "clutch stuff" for a 3.4 will probably also gain ya the "spec'd stuff" for a 2.8!
Majority of "parts" for 2.8 will also be same "parts" number for a 3.4.
BUT specing your "clutch stuff" for a 3.4 will probably also gain ya the "spec'd stuff" for a 2.8!
Majority of "parts" for 2.8 will also be same "parts" number for a 3.4.
#17
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Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 2.8 Lt
Transmission: 5 Spd
Where is the pilot bushing?
I have done everything to my car but have never done a transmission so I hope you guys will be able to help me along. I just don't want to have to bring it somewhere, plus i don't always truste places. I want a good clutch that can take some abuse.
make sure you replace that pilot bushing, or youll be regretting it later. easiest way is a chisel and hammer. break the thing into 4 pieces. lots of people recommend packing the hole w/ grease and driving it out hydraulically, but that didnt work at all for me.
#18
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the pilot bushing sits in the end of the crankshaft that can be seen in some of the pics posted above. in the center of the crank, youll see a round piece, its a brass bushing, thats the pilot bushing.
and the clutch assy for a 2.8 and 3.4 are different. the transmissions had different spline count. the 2.8 has a 14 spline. i cant remember what the 3.4 has, but i know it is different, i checked into this.
and the clutch assy for a 2.8 and 3.4 are different. the transmissions had different spline count. the 2.8 has a 14 spline. i cant remember what the 3.4 has, but i know it is different, i checked into this.
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Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
I used a 5/8" coarse tap and 5/8" coarse nut and bolt against a piece of aluminum flat bar set off from the crank by a couple of flywheel to crank bolts. Then I used a shorty screwdriver to hammer it back in (it's basically just the soft handle of the screwdriver that's hitting the bushing).
#22
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Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
Is the pilot bushing puller a tool I can rent from autozone? Im about to go pull the bellhousing off, and I'll have pics for y'all in a few
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Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
Originally posted by theratdude64
Is the pilot bushing puller a tool I can rent from autozone? Im about to go pull the bellhousing off, and I'll have pics for y'all in a few
Is the pilot bushing puller a tool I can rent from autozone? Im about to go pull the bellhousing off, and I'll have pics for y'all in a few
#24
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Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
Sweet, Thanks dude. I called a parts store, and they have a bearing puller but he doesnt know if it will work for the bushing... I just got the Bellhousing off and I'll go take som pics It was really easy, the only "problem" was the stupid plate that you can take off to look at the clutch without taking the bellhousing off, I couldnt pull it all the way off cause that was in the way, so I just unbolted that *annoying cause car is so low* but worked fine otherwise. I'll be back in a few minutes with pics. I might try taking the clutch off right now too to get even better pics
#26
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Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
Ok, I uploaded a buncha pics of the process so far into my Cardomain page. I also added a buncha stuff to it so feel free to browse it n sign my guestbook
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/571084/8
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/571084/8
#28
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Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
Actually it turns out my room mate has the tool So I can just use his. Thanks though!
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Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
... lol I guess I have a tool box almost the size of a fridge, and my room mates dwarfs it. Any my other room mates have tools. Im in tool central
#31
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Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
I Got my flywheel off finally and updated cardomain with my pictures of it if anyone is interested
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/571084/8
About 3/4 the way down
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/571084/8
About 3/4 the way down
#32
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Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
Wow dude, the clutch disc looks like there's a little left, but the pressure plate and flywheel look to be in terrible condition.
#33
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Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird
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Transmission: 5 Spd
Hows that clutch coming? I put more fluid in my tranny and seems to be doing a little better. Popped the clutch like 4 time yesterday and it took the beating and still goes with no problems. Not sure what the deal is.
#34
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Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
That was stupid TGO died for a split second or somethin cause it wouldnt let me reply nor my friend see the post
Anywho, Ya All of it is pretty shot Gotta love burnouts
Anywho, Ya All of it is pretty shot Gotta love burnouts
#35
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i just got mine put back together today. dont know if it actually shifts or not, dont have my 5.0 shifter yet, lol. but its so good to hear my engine run again after almost two months. the clutch pedal goes down so much easier than the stock one, wow. i should have it moving in a couple days and on the road... legally.... once i have the right side taillight from a stupid ebay seller and updated tabs, probably the middle of next month.
good luck to you man. hope it all works out. ask away if youve got anymore questions
good luck to you man. hope it all works out. ask away if youve got anymore questions
#36
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Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
While you've got the shift lever out, you should throw a short-throw shifter on there. I have one, but I've been way too busy to install it.
#38
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yeah, if youve got the extra $200, pick up a 5.0 shifter. dont bother w/ any other brand... or so ive read on here. im not anywhere near rich and i feel it should be worth the $$ once it shows up. from what ive read, it will be.
check out a chevy dealer and find a next gen catalog, its got that shifter listed in there for $170 (plus shipping), as cheap as ive found anywhere.
check out a chevy dealer and find a next gen catalog, its got that shifter listed in there for $170 (plus shipping), as cheap as ive found anywhere.
#39
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Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
Na, I dont have 200 bucks, and even if I did I am like 1600 bucks in debt right now So the only reason Im buying anything for the camaro is so that I can drive it again to save a ton on gas mileage
#40
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For whoever complained about the picture size, it should be noted that the user is not using the thirdgen UPLOAD feature so there is no limit on size.
If you can't display 1024X768 properly, then I suggest a bigger monitor.
If you can't display 1024X768 properly, then I suggest a bigger monitor.
#41
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Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
Exactly. the only time I have beef with the pictures being too big is when the actual board gets stretched out too and the reply button is waaaaaay on the right. My pictures are perfectly fine, and the board isnt stretched
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Car: '99 Trans Am, '86 Camaro
Engine: LS1, Scrap
Transmission: T56, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Stock ZT, 3.42 Open
Even that hardly applies, as the board has been fixed (or the way browsers render tables has been fixed) so that an image that overruns the borders of a window and stretches the post it is in does not affect any other post in the thread.
Last edited by TechSmurf; 03-28-2005 at 02:55 AM.
#43
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Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
Thats awesome. I'm a member of a few boards, and this is the first one I've seen that fixed that
#44
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Car: '99 Trans Am, '86 Camaro
Engine: LS1, Scrap
Transmission: T56, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Stock ZT, 3.42 Open
BTW.. Folks, if you've got problems with 1024x768 images, you're in for a rude awakening. When it comes to graphical technical content, the quality of the content is almost invariably tied to image resolution. The ability of a person to set the scene and their skill with their camera are absolutely meaningless if the image isn't of a sufficient resolution to show detail. 1024x768 is absolute child's play for today's digital cameras. Most of today's cameras don't even support resolutions that low.
#45
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Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
Ya, thats the lowest setting for my camera.
Anyways, just so I stay on topic ....
Everyone says Change the rear Camshaft seal, do you just take off the Plate with 3 bolts and its an O-Ring or is there more involved?
And any clue whats up with that sticker on it?
Anyways, just so I stay on topic ....
Everyone says Change the rear Camshaft seal, do you just take off the Plate with 3 bolts and its an O-Ring or is there more involved?
And any clue whats up with that sticker on it?
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Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Originally posted by camaro_junkie
Here's my drawing:
Here's my drawing:
*** There's a difference between high-resolution technical content and childish behavior. You crossed the line. Congrats. Image Removed ***
Last edited by TechSmurf; 03-28-2005 at 05:54 AM.
#48
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Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
Originally posted by Gumby
Awesome tool but its hard to see.
*** There's a difference between high-resolution technical content and childish behavior. You crossed the line. Congrats. Image Removed ***
Awesome tool but its hard to see.
*** There's a difference between high-resolution technical content and childish behavior. You crossed the line. Congrats. Image Removed ***
#49
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3 bolts,
unbolt, clean, use some gasket sealer on gasket (gas-a-chinch is BEST for this application!!!!!!!!), slap back on, DONE!
WORTH THE EFFORT TO SCORE BOTH "SPECIFIC" "SPECIFIC" ITEMS!!!!!!
Cheap extra protection!
unbolt, clean, use some gasket sealer on gasket (gas-a-chinch is BEST for this application!!!!!!!!), slap back on, DONE!
WORTH THE EFFORT TO SCORE BOTH "SPECIFIC" "SPECIFIC" ITEMS!!!!!!
Cheap extra protection!
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