ThUnDeR2005

I seem to be having a hard time finding one in town that is 15 MM....... and the only ones online I seen cost like 13 dollars just for the wrench itself. Would someplace like O'Reilly's Auto Parts have it? I've only checked a few stores that have auto tools, but they don't have the 15mm... they all are like 9/16 or other standard sizes. I kinda want to get my Oring replaced on the distributor so I can hope that it would stop leaking

bru333

I don't think anyone has been able to find one in a store. I use a socket on a universal and an extension to get to mine.
Read this thread. He ordered one. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=271911
If you have found one for $13 I'd buy it! Snap-on store online wants like $46 for it! Where did you find it for that?

ThUnDeR2005

http://www.toolweb.com/toolzoneonlin...partno=VIMV118

I guess I could try the 1/4th method... I had such a hard time though, I couldnt get it last time.

Gumby

This might be the time where you make your own tool. Cheap jap tools, $9 propane tourch, hammer n a vise.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

What Gumby says. I used a combination wrench (box on one end, open on other) and bent it in the middle at 90 degrees. Then used a shelf support angle (steel, as used to screw onto a garage wall and put a shelf on), and welded that to the open end.

This made it into a C shape. Works like a charm.

RBob.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

i just used a 1/4" ratchet w/the socket. just manipulate the arm down & around by the firewall.

Doward

15mm stubby ratchet here... Of course, I got rid of the stupid AIR line RIGHT THERE AT THE BOLT.

OMG my v6 is sooo easy to work on. I love it!

ThUnDeR2005

Well I've removed a few things on mine as well... maybe it'll be easier this time around... no air system here as well.

As for making my own tool... good thought, but I don't even have the tools to make the tool that I don't have LOL. No torch

I'll give it a go with the 1/4 inch rachet, use a 3/8 adapter, 3/8 extension and the u-joint with the 15 mm socket... maybe I can get it out

btw...... just to be sure... the O-ring... is it hard to get to?

KED85

AH, SO SIMPLE!
Go to SEARS
Get a 15mm SWIVEL SOCKET, (3 piece) SET OF 3/8" extensions, enjoy yourself! Total cost was like maybe $10 or less.

rol1

Sears has the 15mm swivel socket for $8.**+tax=$9.15 for a little better clearance.

And PEP Boys made me buy 5 in a pack o-rings.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Not being able to build your own, the other advice you received is good. The other one that folks use is a crows foot (15 mm) and a 3/8" racket & extension.

As for the O-ring. Real easy to get to. Once the distributor is out, look at the upper shaft area, right below the flange. The O-ring sits in a groove. Hook it and pull it off, it'll usually break (brittle). Then put some oil on the new one an slide it into place.

RBob.

ThUnDeR2005

ok cool... also people telling me about the timing possibly being off because of it being moved. Is there any way to prevent any timing changes? Will being careful to remember where things go be enough?

Project: 85 2.8 bird

mark the distributer shaft & the block to line them back up. ALso change the timing chain. A new one won't be as stretched out as what's usually in there. side note, I do know of 2 major mods to eliminate the rotating distibutor, but that's for those w/the means to do it

ThUnDeR2005

what will a new timing chain do? Just provide reliability and longevity due to newer item or does it have any other "perks" to it?

KED85

It wil help you rengine
run cooler
last longer
get better gas milage
provide more "Omphpha!".
Add in a distributor rebuild and you win-win!
Add in ignition upgrades and best deal going for the effort.
A new chain can be a real problem solver.
Especially if it was never replaced

ThUnDeR2005

My friend knows more about cars than I do ten-fold, and he had told me that the distributor didn't seem like it needed a rebuild. He said replacing the cap, rotor, and coil was enough...

But the timing chain I'll definitely look into replacing... especially this bein a 20 year old car and all, I'm not exactly sure whats been replaced anyways.

KED85

Yours is from 1984
Think about that.
The item you cannot just swap out (pick up coil on base) is the item that needs replacing.
AT SAME TIME
you have removed the shaft from housing, for a quick sanding, cleaning, relubing. Then you swap on the new pick up coil. You win.
Drag part is that coil is like $10 or so and the effort for changing is yeah, higher than placing on new cap, rotor.
You can't go wrong with doing that work while it's in your hands. Plus you also change the "O" ring, which will also be shot. Add also a small block chevy distributor gasket before insertion and
you'll have a leak free project, rebuilt, ready for many more miles. Add new T chain and your engine will run cooler, better gas milage, more pick up (or altleast better idle) helping the current engine last a few more miles to boot!
You do win in end. For a bit more effort & a few more dollars spent on this one time project.

JamesY

Timing chain, aaaa yes, *kicks car*

They are def. a good thing to replace but they can be interesting to replace .

Tip, get an impact wrench, MUCH easier then doign it by hand liek i have to right now, took me about 45 mins to get 3 of the 4 bolts off for the pullys and now I'm stuck with te 4th bolt there so I'm left wiht alittle bit of pondering for now.

If you need any help with timing chain replacement I might be able to help you by the end of the week :P Should have the whole system apart in many pieces, wouldn't be suprised if I broke somethign too.

ThUnDeR2005

Ok thx both u, the help is greatly appreciated. I'll get back to you as soon things come around (snow preventing working on the car )

Btw... this is what I should look for then, when I go to O'Reillys...

Pick up Coil for Distributor
Distributor cap
Distribotor rotor
and along with that, do some cleaning of the inside, remove grease and etc?

JamesY

You might aswell pickup a TImign chain and gears/pullys while your at it, I knwo replacements for the 2.8L for me from Moores up here is only liek $44 CDN.

KED85

Tip
PUT BACK ON THE OTHER BOLTS and work ONLY on that last remaining bolt to remove. Take tension off that last one, making it easier to remove!
AND YOU DO HAVE the belts still on car to keep engine from easily (by hand) turning over, right?

JamesY

if all the bolts are in or only 1, the pully will still turn....

No I removed the belts, they may provide a little bit of resistance but my engine turns over really easy by hand anyways. I'm going out to try installing the belts as tight as possible and remove the last bolt, also goign to try using a socket on a screwdriver type ratchet instead of L shaped ratchet.

If only i was getting paid by the hour to do this :P

JamesY

Wow, the belts did make a difference

KED85

FORGIVE ME BUT
What a surprise!
Glad it worked well for ya!
We're all here to help & we're cheaper than most garages!
OR should I charge him my rate of a Nickle?
PS When ya do the chain MAKE DAMN SURE THAT the two gears are perfectly level, not one gear more offset than other.
WHY
That increases chain wear.
AND
Before ya remove the OLD gears
PUT THEM DOT TO DOT
AND DO NOT DISTURB THE ENGINE. Then reassemble!
GO GET a harmonic balancer repair sleeve, too.
It's $4, cheap insurance against leakage outta that area!

JamesY

We'll I'm still not there yet, I have 2 bolts left on the oil pan for the back end of the water pump and such before I can even see the timing chain cover so I have to do that, but yah.

That sleeve repair thing, what does it consist of so I know what I am looking for when I come across it.

KED85

Simple
Go to parts counter ask for it.
Tell them it's for a 2.8/3.1 engine
They have it
Fel Pro & Pioneer makes them.
It's a sleeve for balancer snout.
When ya get it in your hands, it'll make sense. For four dollars it's cheap insurance.

ThUnDeR2005

Ok i have the new o-ring right up towards the top of the pic.... problem is , I do not know where it goes. Can someone show me by drawing a circle around the area? The haynes manual does not mention the O-ring (hmmm strange )

bru333

It will be hard like a piece of plastic when you try to take the old one off. It will prolly break into several pieces. Also it won't look like an o-ring either, they take the shape of the slot as they age and harden.

ThUnDeR2005

oh alright, that was my first assumption... but yes the plastic had me alarmed... so i didn't want to break it without being sure.

How will I know if its shot? What makes the new oen better than the stock?

bru333

If it feels like a piece of plastic then its shot!

When it was new it was like the one you just bought. Age and the heat from the engine dries out the rubber and it hardens into what feels like plastic.

ThUnDeR2005

wow...that sucks. No wonder why this thing is the source of oil leaking grief throughout the third gen v6 world (haven't heard about v8 ones having issues)

bru333

The 350 uses a gasket at the base of the dissy, no o-ring!

A lot of guys use that gasket from the V8 engines, in addition to the o-ring, to double seal the V6 distributor.

ThUnDeR2005

hmmm I think thats what KED suggested me getting. Im headin to O'reillys after class tomorrow to pick up my spark plugs, wires etc, might pick up a v8 gasket as well

guest

Yeah.....at first I thought it went where the V8's one went. Then I saw the plastic remains of the rubber one lol. But I've never heard of using two on the sixes. That sounds pretty cool. Good tips.

TomP

When you snap the old o-ring off, bend it "backwards" and look at it closely. You'll see a million little cracks on the "inside" of the o-ring (where it was touching the distributor shaft).

ThUnDeR2005

Yup.... happy to get a new o-ring

oil pan 4

iTrader: (1)

Well it looks like I'm adding a gasket to my shoping list.

KED85

Only $1-$2!