Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

Okay guys my gf's 91 bird with the 3.1 has been leakin oil for the 6 months. now after she's been readin on here she says its the little rubber o-ring for the distributor.

now my question is, if this is where the oil leak is would she end up with a huge oil leak (like its at now)? like say the o-ring started leakin would it turn into a big oil leak?

because she has oil comin from about the distriutor area coming down around the valve covers, past the heads and mainfolds and also coming down to the oil pan. now its dripping all over the place and when she parks the car , it drips alot over the chorse of about 3-5 hours.

would this just be the oil leakin from the top and just slowly building up and just dripping and makin a big mess?

i got the o-ring ready to replace it but id like to hear from others. also is there any write ups about this problem with the seal and with either instructions on where the seal is and how to fix it? mostly about where the seal is? any help is needed. gotta fix this by next sunday (16th).

2_point8_boy

dude, I just replaced mine and it causes MAJOR leaks. It ruined the clutch in my car, soaked the thing with oil. I was going through a quart every 3 weeks, but I havn't burned a quart yet since replacing it, and I did it about 5 weeks ago.

Easy process through, just pull the distributor, rip the old o-ring off, usually brittle and breaks right off with a screwdriver, replace with new one, and re-stab dist. Took me all of 10 min. including the time it took to adjust the timing.

Good Luck.

BitchinRS

Yes it can become a BIG leak. Normally it's starts off small and gets worse over time. Mine has leaked so bad that by the end of the week if I pulled the dip stick it would barley have any oil on the very tip.

Once they start to ware out they dry and brittle real fast.

It's pretty easy to do. I did my last one in about 30 minutes. The work I did the next day was my own stupid fualt. I forgot to hook the EST wire back up after setting the timing.

I use 3 different colored markers to help make sure the timing is all most correct when done.

1.) Make a reference mark on the dist. and fire wall in one color. This helps you make sure you have the corect orientation of the dist. when you to put it back in.

2.) With the dist cap off make a refence mark in a second color on the dist showing you ware your rotoe is pointing.

3.) Remove cables to the dist, hold down bolt / clamp. This requirse a bit of fun with socket extension and swivil joints if you don't have the correct dist wrench. The wrench can be hard to find, but makes the job even easier. i had to go to a parts store that mainly sells to mechanics. Kragens, AZ, Grand Theft Auto, and all of the big comercial guys normally don't carry it or even know what you are talking about when you try to order it.

4.) pul the dist strait out. the rotor will turn as you pull it out. once out. Mark the new direction of the rotor with a third color.

5.) break old O ring off. Use some fresh oil to lube the new O ring, and put it on. This can be easier said then done with oily hands. So you may want to clean your hands off first.

The rotor most likely turned. Line it up the to last mark you made and reinstall dist using the fisrt mark on dist and firewall as a guide. Once the dist is seated the rotor should line up with the secound mark you made. Your timing will be 2 or 3 degrees off so you will want to set your timing.

For the markers I normally use white board markers so I can wipe the mark off the firewall when I am done.

Once the dist is in if the rotor dosen't line up perfectly with the reference mark it is no big deal as you will most likely need to rest your timing. At the very least check your timing when your done.

BitchinRS

Also if you want a little more detailed instructions, or information on how to rebuild the distributor while it's out. Do a search on Distributor rebuild and use Ked85 as the user name for an additonal filter. He did a good job on describing how to rebuild it.

I ended up buy a rebuilt dist. due to the fact that I was able to sorce it cheaper then the individual parts, but parts stores near you may be cheaper on the individual parts.

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

kool thanx guys. this is a big relief. so the little o-ring is right on the distributor shaft? like normally where on a v8 there would be the little flat paper gasket?

also im all to familiar with settin a distributor and timming. had to pull my intake off about 2 -3 times and had to set the distruibutor and timing each time. now its cake work.

last question which cyclender is number one? this way i just have to but number 1 to tdc and ill be fine. but which cylender is number one?

Buck89RS

#1 piston is passanger side in the front.

-Buck

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

hey when i pull the distributor car i just set the car to TDC on number one and then drop the dist. back in with the rotor facing number one? ive done that on my 305 and had no problems, is that okay to do with the v6? ive never fudged with a v6. and so far that damn distributor bolt is a pita so far. will have to go get the job done tomarrow since i lost day light today.

KED85

Many Fond Memories of North Plainfield, NJ
Go get a small Block Chevy Distributor gasket, add this to your mix.
Use a film of black RTV on the gasket, slip it on shaft of distributor.
Do this additional gasket after ya slip on shaft the new "O" Ring.
You will now be leak free.
To reach socket, Go to Sears get a flex joint 15mm socket.
Get the extension kit, too.
That's how ya remove that bolt.
It's on there, tight!
Wait until ya try replacing it after ya replaced that "O" Ring & added the SBC gasket! Oh the joys!
Remove just like on a regular Chevy.
IT WOULD BE REAL WISE to now rebuild that distributor since it is in your hands
AND I can promise ya, it needs it!
In end, ya got leak free car, with more pep, better gas milage, cooler running, too.
Tell us you'll be changing the timing chain, and your reward will be driving a brand new car for cheap!

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

so i take it your from or were from North Plainfield?

well right now i think all ill be able to do is the o-ring and the v8 gasket. other then that it would have to wait enless the parts are super cheap.

ya know what i think my brother has some flex joint sockets, i was tryin almost every socket on a flex thing and then the extention. gotta check tomarrow.

and i take it doin the timming chain on the v6 is the same way on a v8? end up needin a new oil pan gasket to huh? that will be another days project. after i fix her leak i gotta wait for my parts from PSC so i can rebuild the front suspention.

KED85

Here'e the deal
When ya remove the distributor, take off the cap.
See that circle item on the base?
That's like $10-$20 to replace.
The labor involved to rebuild costs next to nothing.
There are NO magic ICM for our 3rd Gen.
I went thru 6 of them in less than a year due to a faulty rebuilt alternator.
GM, BorgWarner, Frederich, AC Delco (made in China, too!), Kragen, Pep Boys, AutoZone.
Ya remove the distributor shaft, clean, polish it, repack it with grease.
I used Synthetic Axle grease.
Swap in the new coil pick up. Realign the reluctor points to whisper touching. Give it a bit of sanding to clean to "contacts". All that metal.
Apply new White Heatsoak Grease under ICM, done. That's pretty much what it comes down to.
Car runs better in end, too. Smoother idle.
No, for V6 you do not remove the oil pan, just timing cover.
All these parts are part of "performance package" to make up for POS.
Previous Owner Syndrome, the worse type, lack of maintenance. Plus car is "only" almost 20 years old.

The Balancer is the bad problem due to it may be on way out, rubber separation. Balancer repair snout sleeve is only $4. But separation is replacement time.
Yeah a bit ago was in North Plainfield.

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

well im done, hopefully the leak is gone now. i put a new pick up in there becuz the other one was deterierating, new cap and rotor also. dropped the distributor back in got everything good, fired right up and just had to adjust the timming a little bit to get it back to were it was. the car runs nice a smooth and even at highway speeds and WOT it runs smooth. hopefully tomarrow when i check to see if its leakin it wont be.

also is there anychance for an electrical problem to happen at all? like i took apart the distributor the way it was and put the new pick up on and rotor and got everything back to where it was before. theres no loose wires or cut wires so everything should be alright? i just dont want something very bad happening other wise id got nut.

next time around i have to replace the ICM, plugs and plug wires and probably the coil while im at it.

KED85

I think you would agree ya do the rebuild correctly, too.
Notice my Accel 8.8s & the Accel Coil on the firewall.
That is how easy your new coil replacement can be.
That's a 3.4 in there, yes under the 1985 2.8 induction/ignition system.

rol1

Sears charged me $9.13 for the 15mm 6 point swivel socket!! The wires to the dist were directly over the hold down bolt.

When I get a timing light I'll rotate the plug wires clockwise one wire on the cap to move the cap wire harness counter clockwise.

It was a pain to r4each the bolt from the driver's side.

BitchinRS

That's why I normally disconnect the wires and get it from the pass side.

Geyservillebob

The guys on the 60degreeV6 board also offer the following bits of advice,

use the brown O-ring rather than the black one. the brown ring is supposed to last longer.

use a V-8 distributor base gasket in addition to the O-ring.

I just picked both up at the local GM dealer, total cost was $2.89.

I also read on the 60degreeV6 boards that "Help" products carries the brown O-ring.

Some on the 60degreeV6 boards said to use sealer on the distributor base but others said the gasket works just as well. I don't want to use sealer hence I bought the gasket.

Anybody have comments on any of these suggestions, hurumphs, etc. ? I'm going to be doing my O-ring and adding the gasket this weekend.

PS, THANK (Insert your favorite diety here) THE BOARD IS BACK UP!!

Frank

KED85

My only other tip is to rebuild the distributor before ya reinstall it.
I also use carb cleaner ON A RAG on the surface of the engine base & also in the distb hole to make sure the surface is so squeeky clean!
I coat both sides of Chevy Distb gasket with a FILM of Black RTV sealer.
I also lube the rubber gasket before it goes into the distb hole with a FILM of motor oil.

THAT DIRK IS A WONDERFUL GUY!!!!
THANKS DIRK!!