xplane

about how much puwer could i expect from my engine if i get it stroked and bored and all the other good stuff short of nos and turbo? im trying to decide if i should get the aluminum block or just keep my cast one. now just for clarification I don't wan't a v8 in this car. i am willing to spend whatever it takes. i know that i will not get as much power as i could with a v8 but i want to keep my v6.

kretos

well if you got a 3.4ltr outta a 4th gen camaro, bored it 30 over with a nice cam, added dowards turbo and a 100 shot of nitrous, you'd have a pretty fast car

of course you'd need forged internals. but it would be fun

xplane

well i don't have a real reason but i want to stick with a 2.8 block just cause:shrug:

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

You're not gonna use the 85 block, are you? 2.8 blocks have insufficient oiling until 1987. the 87 and up 2.8, 3.1, or 3.4 from an s-10 or f-car is the same block with better internal oil passages and mains. You actually can make pretty good power with a 3.1 (did it) if you use 88 and up aluminum top end stuff with your bottom end. 87 and up 2.8-3.1 with fuel injection also use better heads and camshafts from factory. You know of course that the front wheel drive 3.8s will bolt to your trans.....

oil pan 4

iTrader: (1)

The pre 87 blocks suck.
After that they get a lot better.
In 85 the mains get 4mm thicker from 63.35mm to 67.25mm.
I like the idea of 67.25mm better than any thing less.
Around 85 they switched to 1 piece rear main seals, some have 1 and others have 2.
They fixed up the oiling system in 85.
87 and up went to internal ballance.
Frount wheel D cars got an even better oiling system in 87.
If you want a V6 to last you need a good oiling system. Internal ballanced engine would be a good idea too.
Cast iron headed 2.8's have made as much as 270hp N/A and lasted a long time.
Our engines have forged rods form the factory and can take up to 7000rpms if preped right.

Ziggster

killer stroker kits

xplane

ok thanks for your help now where can i get a trans that will handle whatever amount of power i can squeze out of one of those engines. I only ask cause my auto i have now is about shot.

Doward

There is no difference between the 2.8, 3.1, and 3.4 block. If you truly want maximum power, you will end up with something bigger than a 3.4 - Much like Dean went, you'll want ~3.5L V6.

Now, if you want to stay @ 2.8L, then you will need FWD heads, custom intake, custom roller cam, roller chain, roller rockers, Fiero valve covers, Pacesetter headers, 2.75" mandrel bent exhaust, internally balanced, with the lightest rotating assembly and valvetrain you can possible manage. Build it to spin 10k rpm. And you'll find 300+ N/A hp. I would not recommend driving on the street, though.

vsixtoy

Actually Doward, from what I have read about them, the 3.4 blocks are much stronger castings than the 2.8/3.1 blocks. The 3.4's have a ribbed wall contruction where the 2.8/3.1 style block has a smooth wall construction.

The "F" casting on the '93-'95 camaro engines is what you want. Thes blocks will hold up much better in the long run for performance engines. I am going to have mine main caps modified also to hold the crank better in place under high rpms.

vsixtoy

Here's the "F" to look for on the passenger side of the block.

Doward

Well, I'll be.... Although the ribs I see don't look like much, it IS an improvement - Don't waste the $$ on the stroker kit for the 2.8L block, just get the 3.4 F casting, like shown by Dean.

Doward

Also, I'm going to double check the 2.8 and 3.1L blocks I've got - but I do NOT recall seeing any letter there! This could be a GOOD way to determine if the motor you are looking at, is, indeed, a true 3.4L motor (when not in the car)

Dale

iTrader: (12)

all mine had something stamped on the side, but I dont think it was an "f"??

Jerriko 3.4

Like this:
Block

xplane

Ok you have talked me into it im gonna get a 3.4 block to start from. so how much power could i get from that? i was thinking i would use a 2.8 block cause the one that came out of my car had just thrown a rod or some thing and it is just sitting in my parrents garage and i thought hm why not use it

oil pan 4

iTrader: (1)

If you want to know how strong a 3.4L block is here is a thred I tore up real bad.
http://www.camarov6.com/ubb/ultimate...c;f=4;t=001920

vsixtoy

The blocks are plenty strong and don't need any kind of treatment to further strengthen them. The guys on that other post need to remember that they are not dealing with a brand new block, in fact they (like myself) are modifying a block that has been run for at least 50K and is heat cycled already. The metal on used blocks is in fact strnger than new blocks if it has normal street duty on it.

I will be chcking into modifying my main caps though and have already stated that above.

TomP

That's why when I rebuild the 2.8, I'll be rebuilding an 87-89 2.8 block, not my '86 block.

As for the trans; in general, the newer the 700r4, the better it was built by GM. There were a lot of design flaws in the early 700r4's. Us 85-86 guys got the "second version" of the 700r4.

Just like the 2.8 block, you want a MINIMUM of 1987 for the 700r4 year. Main fix was moving from an evenly-spaced-vane fluid pump to an irregularly-spaced-vane fluid pump. The evenly-spaced pump would cavitate (air bubbles in fluid) and run dry, and as a result, the trans would also starve for fluid. If your trans is shot, your pump probably went bad- just like mine did.

You could also buy an 87-93 700r4 from a junkyard- but it's gotta be for a 2.8/3.1/3.4 rear wheel drive motor (S10 blazers with 2.8's also work, but the S10 can't have a 4.3 V6)- and rebuild it yourself. Click on this <a href="search.php?s="><img src="images/top_search.gif" alt="Search" border="0"></a> search button, choose the "Transmission & Drivetrain" forum, and search for messages with "trans rebuild kit" in them. Here's one of the messages that comes up with a search, and I just printed it out for my own records: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=224197

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Why not a newer 3.1 or 3.4 engine to start your rebuild on? They're usually the same price at the wrecking yard anyway.
Remember: NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT
All antagonism aside, no matter which engine family is best, isn't it better to start with a bigger one versus a smaller one?
Just my

redraif

I say 3.4. If you start with anything smaller you are going to eventually want to upgrade to squeeze more out anyway!