V6camaroman

ok i got another ignition module for my car. i have replaced it before and my new one came with a small packet of this grease stuff. this one i just got didnt come with it. what kinda grease is that? where can i get some from?

Quick_Trans_Am

iTrader: (2)

It's Dielectric grease. When you change your ignition module, clean the spot on the distributor where it sat, and put this grease on the metal bottom of the module and the distributor, just spread it all over, it helps to keep electrical contact. Without it, you could have problems with the car not starting when it's hot, or not starting at all.




edit: you can get this grease at any auto parts store, and maybe even wal-mart, though I've never looked there.

CaliCamaroRS

It's used to disapate heat from the module so it doesn't overheat. Electronics, and ignition modules in particular, really don't like heat. In fact it's very common that a bad module will work fine when cold, then shut off when it gets hot.

V6camaroman

ok is the little bag of grease that comes with sparkplugs dielectric grease? thats all i can find right now

Quick_Trans_Am

iTrader: (2)

Learn something every day.... I always thought it helped to maintain an electrical connection.

FbodTrek

YUP.

V6camaroman

ok guys thanks for your help got the module in and it runs good.

oil pan 4

iTrader: (1)

The grease keeps the connection good, it will keep the kontacts clean and free from ionized crossive gasses.
It does several things.
Put it where the pick up coil plugs into the ICM more than any thing. Or one day your car might not have a spark.
Did you get a stock ICM replacement or a Holley ICM?

TechSmurf

I'm sorry, but you're going to have to find sources to back that statement, because the only real purpose of white silicon heatsink grease that I've ever run into is as thermal transfer material.

V6camaroman

ok now i seen to be having the same problem today with the car. after it gets warm and im really pushing it up a hill ro something it starts to pop and backfire a little bit like its loosing spark. this is just after i put the other ignition module in last night. here is the thing though. when i took my cap off to change it last night there was only one screw holding the ignition module in place and not two. could that be a problem? i dont want my car to quit. where could i get another screw from. i tryed my 92 firebird parts car because thats got a 3.1 in it but when i pulled the screw it was shorter than my 2.8one and wouldnt work.

V6camaroman

does anyone know if all i need is another screw or not?

vsixtoy

I believe what Oilpan is refering to is correct (not entirely certain though, it can be interpeted both ways).

Anyways, the "fact" is that "dielectric" means that it is NON-conductive. I'm sure if you look it up in the dictionary, there should be a definition of the word saying something to that effect.

You do NOT want to put it on contact points THEN plug them togheter. What you WANT to do is clean and plug together the contact points first, then coat them with dielectric grease.

I always use it on the inside walls of my sparkplug boots to 1)lubricate them for easy future removal, 2) further insulate them from header heat (I also run Taylor 1200* firesleeves over the boots), and 3) make sure it is NOT on the metal wire clip inside the boot that conects to the sparkplug- Again coat the boot walls, but not the metal connections inside.

Edit: oh yes, V6camaro- I don't believe that missing screw would cause the problem unless the ICM is wiggling and causing a loose connection.

Also-Fact!- A/C Delco ignition modules are the best you can buy. Believe it or not they are better made than any "performance" aftermarket modules. Don't bother buying the Holley units- and for gawd sakes don't buy a "Wells" module. I have seen them on the ignition scope! A/C Delcos are workhorses. A Holley will NOT give you any more power, and will not last as long either. Wells will rob power and are very heat sensitive.

oil pan 4

iTrader: (1)

The reason I put silicone (or any dieletric) grease on connections to keep them free of crust.
Then why is it called dieletric grease and not heat sink grease?
The main place I put it is on battery termanls and on cannon plugs some times. I put it on terminal bords too where weathering is a problen and it last a lot longer than just wire brushing it off, puting it back together and sending it out just to have it come back a few months later for the same problem.
dielectric means it's not a conducter.
You can put the grease on spark plug connecters as long as they fit real snug, trust me it won't in any way block the spark. I use to do it all the time on 2 stroke out bord boat motors.
You can eather have non conducting air with moisture around you connections or nonconducting grease. I pick the grease in most cases as long as it won't attract tons of dirt.
The grease does a few things, it will take away heat.
When I get a unit that some thing eletrical won't work it is all most allways a crusty connection or a wire broken at a solderless connecter, can repare it and send it back out with out spending one tax payer dollar (maybe a just a 1cent solderless connecter).
My main tool where I work is a digital multi meter.
After years of working on eletrical systems that sit out side most of the time I know what works and what doesn't.