how to adjust valves
#1
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Car: camaro88RS
Engine: 2.8l
Transmission: 700-R4
how to adjust valves
anyone can tell me how can i adjust the valves on my v6.I had to change my intake gaskets and in order to put the new gaskets i had to remove the pushrods .So now i think i have to adjust them. anyone has any idea.....
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Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
And dont worry. You'll have plenty of practice at it as you'll probably have to do it more than once! adjusting valves sucks
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Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
Well if you have bolts going down through the VC's like i do then you can get the VC"s off without removing the plenum. All i do is get the right socket that fits the vc bolts, put it on a swivel and a long extention. The bolt in the front drivers side is the hardest. You'll have to remove the inner most alt bracket,the egr and move the ac comp bracket out a little. Still takes some time but it beats the hell outa taking the top of the motor off. I have done this twice now. (beat rocker arm nuts ) Next time they loosen a different motor is going in!
#6
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
Originally posted by whitecamrs
the problem is not adjusting but to take all the junk out of the way....lol
the problem is not adjusting but to take all the junk out of the way....lol
#7
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Car: 1991 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 3.1 V6
Transmission: 700R4
according to the manual. you adjust these, then reassemble the VC's, intake, AC braket, EGR tube, TB heater hoses.. etc. and you'll be right as rain and be able to run your engine right from there.. yeah right. man I hate adjusting these valves! here's what it says though:
pg 81 paragraph 6 of the Haynes manual:
rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. To make sure you do not mix up the TDC positions of the number 1 and 4 pistons, check the position of the rotor in the distributor to see which terminal it is pointing at. another method is to place your fingers on the number one rocker arms as the timing marks line up at the crankshaft pulley. if the rocker arms are not moving, the number one piston is at TDC. if they move as the timing marks line up, the number 4 piston is at TDC.
Back off of the rocker arm nut until play is felt at the pushrod, then turn it back in just until all play is removed. This can be determined by rotating the pushrod while tightening the nut. just when drag is felt at the pushrod, all lash has been removed. Now turn the nut in an additional 3/4 turns.
adjust the number one, five and six cylinder intake valves and the number one, two and three cylinder exhaust valves with the crankshaft in this position, using the method just described.
rotate the crankshaft until the number four piston is at TDC on the compression stroke and adjust the number two, three and four cylinder intake valves and the number four, five and six cylinder exhaust valves.
and thats it..of course you can't put the VC's back on unless you take the intake apart. Unless you have a 2 inch spacer installed between your runners and the intake manifold.
pg 81 paragraph 6 of the Haynes manual:
rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. To make sure you do not mix up the TDC positions of the number 1 and 4 pistons, check the position of the rotor in the distributor to see which terminal it is pointing at. another method is to place your fingers on the number one rocker arms as the timing marks line up at the crankshaft pulley. if the rocker arms are not moving, the number one piston is at TDC. if they move as the timing marks line up, the number 4 piston is at TDC.
Back off of the rocker arm nut until play is felt at the pushrod, then turn it back in just until all play is removed. This can be determined by rotating the pushrod while tightening the nut. just when drag is felt at the pushrod, all lash has been removed. Now turn the nut in an additional 3/4 turns.
adjust the number one, five and six cylinder intake valves and the number one, two and three cylinder exhaust valves with the crankshaft in this position, using the method just described.
rotate the crankshaft until the number four piston is at TDC on the compression stroke and adjust the number two, three and four cylinder intake valves and the number four, five and six cylinder exhaust valves.
and thats it..of course you can't put the VC's back on unless you take the intake apart. Unless you have a 2 inch spacer installed between your runners and the intake manifold.
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#8
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Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
of course you can't put the VC's back on unless you take the intake apart. Unless you have a 2 inch spacer installed between your runners and the intake manifold. ____________________________________________________
Yes you can, i have done it already. I have adjusted my valves twice already without taking the intake off. Just takes a little work.
Yes you can, i have done it already. I have adjusted my valves twice already without taking the intake off. Just takes a little work.
#9
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
3/4 of a turn is wrong. They will rattle.
I have mine at 1.25 turns and they still tick when cold.
GM helms says 1.50 turn. When I install my 1.6 rockers, thats what I'm setting them at.
I have mine at 1.25 turns and they still tick when cold.
GM helms says 1.50 turn. When I install my 1.6 rockers, thats what I'm setting them at.
#10
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Car: camaro88RS
Engine: 2.8l
Transmission: 700-R4
i did adjust the valves today,but i gave to it only 1 full turn after the "lash" was felt now my question is .Will be that enough?My chilton manual says 1.50 but i'll go for 1 nowor should i gave more 1/2 turn?
#11
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
I ran mine alot on 3/4 turn. You will just have a tick.
The next time you take the top back off, give them extra 3/8-1/2 turn.
The next time you take the top back off, give them extra 3/8-1/2 turn.
#12
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Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Originally posted by Dale
3/4 of a turn is wrong. They will rattle.
I have mine at 1.25 turns and they still tick when cold.
GM helms says 1.50 turn. When I install my 1.6 rockers, thats what I'm setting them at.
3/4 of a turn is wrong. They will rattle.
I have mine at 1.25 turns and they still tick when cold.
GM helms says 1.50 turn. When I install my 1.6 rockers, thats what I'm setting them at.
BTW, br()bert. do you know offhand what the thread size is on those bolts? I hate my studs!
Last edited by Maverick H1L; 04-12-2004 at 09:46 PM.
#13
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Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
Nah i wish i did , i posted asking and someone (Dale if i remember correctly) posted the part number for the nuts. (my nuts are bad) yeah i know didnt sound right!
BTW Maverick, my car backfired when i had the valves too loose.
BTW Maverick, my car backfired when i had the valves too loose.
#14
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Car: '99 Trans Am, '86 Camaro
Engine: LS1, Scrap
Transmission: T56, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Stock ZT, 3.42 Open
M10 x 1.50 is the thread into the head.. and I know they're M10 into the rocker.. likely x 1.50 too.
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