What do you think about these brakes
#51
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
Athought on this air-tubing. At the speeds you will need air travel, the "ram air" effect wont work. You will for sure need a fan, or blowing system.
blue89rs did some calculations, and "ram air" only works at very high speeds. So in stop and go traffic, "ram air" doesnt work.
blue89rs did some calculations, and "ram air" only works at very high speeds. So in stop and go traffic, "ram air" doesnt work.
#53
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Car: 86 Berlinetta 84 MonteCL
Engine: 3.4 MPFI 3.8 229
Transmission: 700r4 T350
To halfpint:
It's not misinformation I posted, it's fact relevant to my shop, we won't turn them. We advise against them because we've damaged bits in the past cutting them. Do what you want with your own machine, we don't have money to throw away on expensive little triangles.......
#55
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Car: 99 SS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
I guess it would really depend on what kind of driving you do the most. I don't sit in traffic a lot, but I have a nice winding mountain road that I go over every weekend. I'm getting a little tired of driving a lifted s-10, yes lifted not lowered, over it and catching up to r*** with the way I drive it...would much rather catch them and pass them with my camaro like last year. I think that just having the ducts would help the brakes in that kind of situation.
#56
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Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 3.1LV6
Transmission: 700R4
If I'm not mistaken 91-92 Firebirds with GFX and Trans Ams do have air ducts that somewhat direct air towards the brake rotors. These can be used with some sort of hoses to cool the brakes even more on those models.
#57
Notice to all- Your brakes will never get hot enough on the street or even autocross to ever have to worry about brake ducts for cooling. You'd be lucky to reach 600*f most race cars on extended highspeed track use will reach 1000-1200*f.
Just use carbon matrix pads and you'll raise your street fade temp without ducts, and will still cold stop fine.
Just use carbon matrix pads and you'll raise your street fade temp without ducts, and will still cold stop fine.
#58
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Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Originally posted by halfpint
Notice to all- Your brakes will never get hot enough on the street or even autocross to ever have to worry about brake ducts for cooling. You'd be lucky to reach 600*f most race cars on extended highspeed track use will reach 1000-1200*f.
Just use carbon matrix pads and you'll raise your street fade temp without ducts, and will still cold stop fine.
Notice to all- Your brakes will never get hot enough on the street or even autocross to ever have to worry about brake ducts for cooling. You'd be lucky to reach 600*f most race cars on extended highspeed track use will reach 1000-1200*f.
Just use carbon matrix pads and you'll raise your street fade temp without ducts, and will still cold stop fine.
I would consider it a very mild car chase but some vents cooling my brakes would of helped.
#60
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Car: 99 SS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Notice to all- Your brakes will never get hot enough on the street or even autocross to ever have to worry about brake ducts for cooling. You'd be lucky to reach 600*f most race cars on extended highspeed track use will reach 1000-1200*f.
#61
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Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Originally posted by F585
I remember someone telling me their brake fluid boiled while racing in autoX.
I remember someone telling me their brake fluid boiled while racing in autoX.
This is with new stock replacement calipers/hoses and remachined rotors, and non-performance pads though. This is on a Mustang, not a third gen, but I imagine they are similar enough for this to be valid. If not, feel free to pimp slap me.
Last edited by Nixon1; 03-10-2004 at 04:13 PM.
#62
You guys that replied and claim to have lost your brakes from overheating are all using low temp standard semi-metallic street pads. Your brakes are fading because you are going beyond their temp operating range- they are standard use pads for old ladies to drive with. I will say again, just upgrade to a higher temp operating range pad (carbon matrix type) and you will not fade or overheat even in autocross. If you are overheating in autocross, then you are overdriving the car- not only loosing time, but also abusing things. You don't need ducts.
Nixon, howeve,r stated that he did his "stunt" on a[ "It took about 20 minutes of high speed driving using the brakes more often than normal, and then about 5 consecutive nonstop max-speed laps around this little square circuit we set up."] course type enviroment, and not traffic light to traffic light turn, go 1 block, then turn again street senerio. this is more of a race course enviroment that would call for not only better pads, but also cooling ducts.
Nixon, howeve,r stated that he did his "stunt" on a[ "It took about 20 minutes of high speed driving using the brakes more often than normal, and then about 5 consecutive nonstop max-speed laps around this little square circuit we set up."] course type enviroment, and not traffic light to traffic light turn, go 1 block, then turn again street senerio. this is more of a race course enviroment that would call for not only better pads, but also cooling ducts.
#63
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Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 191ci 6cyl
Transmission: 700r4
I was thinking take some of these, wire them to a switch, run tubing to the brakes, metal tips to the tubes so they don't melt. http://www.3dcool.com/?module=product&sku=Tornado92mm those would push some series air and at $15 each it's not all that expensive. Wouldn't even have to have anything hang down or anything.
#64
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Dale
When I'm in traffic, thats when I am/will be using them the most, heating them up.
When I'm in traffic, thats when I am/will be using them the most, heating them up.
Originally posted by halfpint
You guys that replied and claim to have lost your brakes from overheating are all using low temp standard semi-metallic street pads. Your brakes are fading because you are going beyond their temp operating range- they are standard use pads for old ladies to drive with. I will say again, just upgrade to a higher temp operating range pad (carbon matrix type) and you will not fade or overheat even in autocross. If you are overheating in autocross, then you are overdriving the car- not only loosing time, but also abusing things. You don't need ducts.
You guys that replied and claim to have lost your brakes from overheating are all using low temp standard semi-metallic street pads. Your brakes are fading because you are going beyond their temp operating range- they are standard use pads for old ladies to drive with. I will say again, just upgrade to a higher temp operating range pad (carbon matrix type) and you will not fade or overheat even in autocross. If you are overheating in autocross, then you are overdriving the car- not only loosing time, but also abusing things. You don't need ducts.
But I can't see spending $1000's for larger quad-piston brakes on a V6 f-body, when a cooling duct setup is basically free. That's why I brought this up- and for the scenario that was just described- when you're on a basically "free" road with twists and turns. Or I guess even if you're bored and have some ducting lying around.
Last edited by TomP; 03-14-2004 at 01:05 AM.
#65
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I'm tired of the bickering. End of discussion, but here's my .02
Look at any company that make slotted and cross drilled rotors. The most expensive and best ones they have are either slotted or cross drilled or both. There's a reason for this. The guys in R&D don't get paid well so that they can give bad ideas to a company that spends millions of dollars just to change one element of a design. What you have here is a situation where every "car guy" thinks they know that they're right. It's just like the old "Will no thermostat make my car run hotter?" Some say yes, some say no, and people will fight about it as long as there are thermostats.
Slotted and cross drilled both have their purposes. Yes the cheap ones may crack, but thats what you get for taking the easy way out. The most important part of your brake system is actually your pads anyways. (I use Bendix Ceramic pads, so ....they're a bitch on the first 2 stops of the day, but the hotter they get, the better they grab...and almost no brake dust.)
BTW, Tom....your idea about break cooling with no rain, it's simple.
Make the tube come UP before it comes down and have a small block off plate to catch the water.
This is a VERY rough drawing, but you get my idea...maybe.
-
Look at any company that make slotted and cross drilled rotors. The most expensive and best ones they have are either slotted or cross drilled or both. There's a reason for this. The guys in R&D don't get paid well so that they can give bad ideas to a company that spends millions of dollars just to change one element of a design. What you have here is a situation where every "car guy" thinks they know that they're right. It's just like the old "Will no thermostat make my car run hotter?" Some say yes, some say no, and people will fight about it as long as there are thermostats.
Slotted and cross drilled both have their purposes. Yes the cheap ones may crack, but thats what you get for taking the easy way out. The most important part of your brake system is actually your pads anyways. (I use Bendix Ceramic pads, so ....they're a bitch on the first 2 stops of the day, but the hotter they get, the better they grab...and almost no brake dust.)
BTW, Tom....your idea about break cooling with no rain, it's simple.
Make the tube come UP before it comes down and have a small block off plate to catch the water.
This is a VERY rough drawing, but you get my idea...maybe.
-
#66
Supreme Member
Re: To halfpint:
Originally posted by FbodTrek
It's not misinformation I posted, it's fact relevant to my shop, we won't turn them. We advise against them because we've damaged bits in the past cutting them. Do what you want with your own machine, we don't have money to throw away on expensive little triangles.......
It's not misinformation I posted, it's fact relevant to my shop, we won't turn them. We advise against them because we've damaged bits in the past cutting them. Do what you want with your own machine, we don't have money to throw away on expensive little triangles.......
#67
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Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Ive been eyeballing a blue TA like this that has sat in dudes yard for a while. It has a salvage title and its sat for 4 years so far.
Wonder if I could talk him out of body parts cheap as the TA nose has some nice built in brake cooling scoops.
Wonder if I could talk him out of body parts cheap as the TA nose has some nice built in brake cooling scoops.
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