OdysseyHayabusa

how do i remove the bolts on the intake manifold?

I tried pliers, vice grips and if they dont budge soon, im going to use a dremel.

Im going to do a complete rebuild and its blocking me from getting where i need to be!!! :lala:

Project: 85 2.8 bird

which section of the intake?

OdysseyHayabusa

the very top of the engine, where the air gets distributed to each cylinder, has circle on the top for a 2.8 L emblem on it.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

use 12pt 10mm socket

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

If you've tried everything and still can't get the bolts to move, you want to use a 6 point socket and not a 12 point. If that fails, you can go to your local Sears Craftsman retailer and get their Bolt-Out damaged bolt remover set. Get all ten pieces (they come in 2 packs of five, the starter set with the case). You also need to have a socket or some wrench with which to drive them (most take 17mm sockets up to the #7 or #8 at which point they get a lot bigger). These really work! You'll need the others later if you can't even get the plenum bolts out, I expect...

br()bert

If you tried pliers and vise grips you probably destroyed them already

F585

Yup, get the Bolt-Out kit, If you encounter any more stubborn bolts use a pry bar or smack a wrench with a hammer.

br()bert

you should have never have put pliers or vise grips on those bolts. When i replaced my head gasket some pb blaster, a $10 set of ratchets and a 3 foot breaker bar got EVERY bolt loose easily.

TomP

Tip time!

1. Always use a 6 point socket. 12 point sockets ruin bolts.

2. Always use a "real" brand name socket, like Craftsman or Husky or SK or Mac or Snap-On. The cheap Walmart/K-Mart socket sets are made of cheap metal that ruins bolts; they're only good for hanging pictures on walls or putting together furniture- they're not meant for automotive use. Get your parents/spouse/friends/relatives/etc to buy you a $50 Craftsman socket set for your birthday/4th of July/easter/whatever. And the best part? You'll never have to buy the set again b/c of the lifetime warranty.

3. Never use a pullllllling or pushhhhhing force on the ratchet or breaker bar. This induces a side-load which can strip the bolt, and doesn't send all of your force to the bolt. Instead, use hard Yanks or Shoves on the ratchet/breaker bar. Don't use a constant force... this will act like a garage's impact wrench.

4. Use a short of an extension as possible. Extensions can "twist up" and absorb your strength. If you need a lonnnng extension, use a 1/2 inch drive extension - they're much thicker than the 3/8th inch stuff.

5. Use as short of a socket as possible to avoid a side-load that'll ruin the bolt.

6. Avoid using "universal" adapters (aka "swivels") b/c they prevent your full strength from going to the socket. You want a 100% straight shot on that bolt.

7. Sometimes a direct smack to the head of the bolt with a hammer will loosen up corrosion. Just don't ruin the bolt by beating the hell out of it!

8. Sometimes you can make a bolt move by Tightening it a slight bit, then trying to loosen it. Just don't snap the bolt... that's why this isn't really a good method to use.

9. A breaker bar is the best b/c you can't ruin any racheting mechanism, and you get extra leverage. They're also usually 1/2 inch drive which allows you to use the stronger 1/2 inch drive tools (extensions, sockets, etc).

10. If you must hit the breaker bar/ratchet handle with a hammer, wear eye protection!!!!! Chrome is brittle and can flake off with a hammer blow, you don't want a chip landing in your eye. This is why impact sockets/extensions/swivels are never chrome.

11. Apply for a Home Depot charge card, and buy an air compressor for $300. If the air compressor comes with an impact wrench, give it away as a gift because it's crap, and spend over $50 on another impact wrench. Go for a twin-hammer one... if mine can't loosen the nut/bolt, it'll snap it.

12. If you strip out a nut/bolt and can't fit a socket on it, get a flat file meant for metal (not wood). You might be able to file the sides down enough to put a socket one size smaller on it. Or, you might be able to file TWO opposite sides down enough to fit an open-ended wrench on it- and if you do use an open-ended wrench, get the biggest SOB you can find, like a 12" or 15", since the wrench is thicker, it'll transfer the most force to the bolt/nut.

13. If you're working on an engine stand, place your feet on the engine stand's legs (don't tip the engine over of course). This does two things; it keeps the engine stand from twisting, AND it keeps all of your force contained with the engine stand.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

all but two of the bolts are 10mm, them are 13mm.

If all you have is american size tools, your SOL, this whole engine is metric, every last nut and bolt.

Intake sections 10mm/13mm, sometimes deepwell
valve covers, deep well 10mm
fuel rail to intake, 10mm
fuel lines to rail, t25 torx (make sure you take off gas cap first)
bracket from intake to acpump, 13mm and 15mm
oil pan, 10mm, sometimes deepwell
distrib bolt, 15mm
head bolts, 15mm (I think)
coil brackets, could be 13mm, or 15mm
engine pulling brackets, 13mm
oil pump housing, 17mm
crank pully bolts, 13mm and 18mm
smog pully bolts, 10mm
water pump pully, 10mm
water pump/timing chain cover, 13mm, 10mm, 8mm
grounding bolts, 13mm,15mm, 17mm
motor brackets, 13mm
brackets to mount, 17mm,18mm
trans to engine(mine were non-stock) 17mm

Denis.V

Oddissey:

Please understand:

You started your "complete rebuild" project destroying the first bolts in your way.

You tried snap pliers into a V6 engine.

Too many problems at the start point. I think that you'll finish crazy with this project.

Please, please, do a complete search about your project in this forum, and then, ask for help for each step that you needs in your job. The most complete information in the world is here.


Good rebuild,

Denis V.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

the bolts holding the upper plenum to the middle on my 2.8/3.4 were 12pt heads. I'll check size after work whennot in uniform.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

the bolts holding the upper plenum to the middle on my 2.8/3.4 were 12pt heads. I'll check size after work whennot in uniform.

br()bert

The "cheap matal ratchet set" Wont break bolts, actually the metal they are made of isnt as tough as the craftsman sets are and the socket gives before the bolt will.

One of my cheap sockets i was using on the head gasket job looked like a mushroom after it failed to get a bolt out.

Not that im saying dont buy the best tools, but the cheap ones will work just as good, they will just break more often.

And btw most tools come with the life time warr these days.

pb blaster works great too.

my bolts are 12 point also

Dale

iTrader: (12)

everything on my engine BUT, torx for the fuel rail, the security torx for regulator, and the crank rod nuts were all regular hex head nuts and bolts.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

From my SEA FOAM 101 page , you cain see the 12pt heads. Maybe it's an 85 thing?

Dale

iTrader: (12)

WACK, thats not whats on my engine. Must be that funny 85 thing :P

br()bert

i have the same thing

Skatepunk60

My 85 S/e had the 12pt bolts too.

TomP

I still don't agree (but that's okay); if I'm trying to break a bolt free, the last thing I want is for the socket to mush out on me. And it's been my experience that after those cheap sockets wear out enough, they will start rounding off the edges of bolts, making it harder to get a firm grip on them. Heck, Sears sometimes puts their 12 point metric "rail set" 8mm-18mm 3/8th inch drive sockets on sale for $10! Although for serious bolt-loosening, 6 point sockets should be used!

Anyway; I just realized; there's no way these bolts should be stuck!! They're steel bolts going into aluminum- max torque for those is 15 ft/lbs. Vice grips or pliers should've taken those out easily. Sounds like someone got to that engine first! Either that, or... not to be a jerk, but you are turning the rachet counter-clockwise, right? I've made that mistake a few times when I'm not paying attention...

I have normal 6-point bolts on my upper plenum. I've seen the 12 point weird ones in some junkyard cars... so let me rephrase:

If the bolt head has 6 sides, use a 6 point socket- never use a 12 point socket on a 6-point bolt if you're trying to break the bolt free! If the bolt has 12 sides, well, you're kinda stuck using a 12 point socket.

You can see the 6-point screws on my intake in the pic in this old message: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...50#post1417955

br()bert

You should buy the best tools you can afford. When my head gasket went i was out of work,sh-- in still out of work, and i couldnt go buy a good tool set like i wanted, even with the cheapass $10 kmart ratchets i didnt break any bolts with them i did turn one socket into a mushroom though..
I did break and exhaust bolt with a wrench though.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

6pt bolts on the upper intake, that's just KRAZZZZZZY!!!!