just got dynomax exhaust in tonight. got ques?
#1
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just got dynomax exhaust in tonight. got ques?
i finally got time to put my dynomax super turbo exhaust in tonight. it was a biatch... i had to bend the hangar at the back completely down to fit it over the rear end. after that it was a breaze. 2marrow i have to adjust everything though it hangs a little low on the driver side. i have a few ques about it though...
1) why does it smell so bad? i thought i had burning wires under the car when i test drove it.
2) how much should it take off my quarter mile times?
1) why does it smell so bad? i thought i had burning wires under the car when i test drove it.
2) how much should it take off my quarter mile times?
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Car: 87 Camaro Vert
Engine: Cammed LT1
Transmission: T-5
1) why does it smell so bad?
You didn't happen to leave the stickers on it did you? not that I would know about that or anything...
You didn't happen to leave the stickers on it did you? not that I would know about that or anything...
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new exhaust always smeels bad.
Aside from the stickers, there is usually a nice oil film somewhere you can't reach, and all of the grease and grime from your hands is burning off. give it a week or two, smell should go away.
if its got chrome tips, its worth 75 horse.
if its a honda, 150.
will drop you into the 11's in the quarter if it's a mitsy-bitsy.
Aside from the stickers, there is usually a nice oil film somewhere you can't reach, and all of the grease and grime from your hands is burning off. give it a week or two, smell should go away.
if its got chrome tips, its worth 75 horse.
if its a honda, 150.
will drop you into the 11's in the quarter if it's a mitsy-bitsy.
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Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
Originally posted by chris400
if its got chrome tips, its worth 75 horse.
if its a honda, 150.
will drop you into the 11's in the quarter if it's a mitsy-bitsy.
if its got chrome tips, its worth 75 horse.
if its a honda, 150.
will drop you into the 11's in the quarter if it's a mitsy-bitsy.
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
The easiest way for guys like me without a lift in their garage to install a cat-back is this:
Block the front wheels
Remove rear wheels/tires
Raise up car with hydraulic jack under center of rear axle
Place jackstands under the rear subframe (just in front of rear lower control arm attachment points)
Lower hydraulic jack to place car on jackstands
Check to make sure car is secure on jackstands
Unbolt and remove the rear axle's anti-sway-bar's end links
Unbolt lower shock bolt
Unbolt rear-brake-hard-line-to-body bracket
Lower axle enough to push lower shock bolts out of axle flanges
Lower the axle to the ground, careful not to bend rear brake line
Reach up, remove rear springs
With the axle down as far as it'll go (without bending the rear brake tube or stressing the rear brake hose), you just have to pull the old cat-back out from the back of the car, and slide the new one in.
Block the front wheels
Remove rear wheels/tires
Raise up car with hydraulic jack under center of rear axle
Place jackstands under the rear subframe (just in front of rear lower control arm attachment points)
Lower hydraulic jack to place car on jackstands
Check to make sure car is secure on jackstands
Unbolt and remove the rear axle's anti-sway-bar's end links
Unbolt lower shock bolt
Unbolt rear-brake-hard-line-to-body bracket
Lower axle enough to push lower shock bolts out of axle flanges
Lower the axle to the ground, careful not to bend rear brake line
Reach up, remove rear springs
With the axle down as far as it'll go (without bending the rear brake tube or stressing the rear brake hose), you just have to pull the old cat-back out from the back of the car, and slide the new one in.
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Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Lol....the parts are all coated with protective oils and crap...I guess to prevent rusting in the box. They all burn off when you drive it. It looked like I was burning oil like CRAZY for about 2 1/2 days until all that crap burned off.
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#8
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Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
Originally posted by TomP
Block the front wheels
Remove rear wheels/tires
Raise up car with hydraulic jack under center of rear axle
... bla bla bla
Block the front wheels
Remove rear wheels/tires
Raise up car with hydraulic jack under center of rear axle
... bla bla bla
1. Back the car up on to a pair of ramps.
2. Remove track bar (2 bolts)
3. Remove track bar brace (4 bolts).
4. Maneouvre I-pipe into place. (You might have to jack the car body up a bit, and you might want a jack on the car body for support.)
5. Reassemble.
Don't worry Tom, I'm not ragging on you. I just found this was the easiest way to do it.
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
LOL, no problem! Anything's easier (and safer) then raising the car 20 feet in the air with jacks and jackstands and pieces of wood, and trying to loop the new intermediate pipe over the axle!!
Although actually I did leave removal of the track bar and brace out of my list...
Although actually I did leave removal of the track bar and brace out of my list...
Last edited by TomP; 09-09-2003 at 10:49 PM.
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Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
You wanna talk about unsafe? You should have seen the setup my dad and I used to take out the fuel tank. Ha!
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