die die die
#1
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die die die
i have tried helplessly trying to kill my motor...i hate it .. the last attempted was to leave it in 1st gear for five min will tackin it out nope didnt work...any ways my problem is my vats it seems like when i drive for a wile and shut the car off it wont start becouse of the vats..why..please help
#2
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Car: 87' Firebird
Engine: 2.8L
Transmission: Standard
haha sorry i dunno the answer to your question but .. didnt it die on the way home from the thirdgen nationals 03? just do something like that over and over again
#4
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Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
When i had cash a while back i wanted to blow my motor one day my car over heated past the 260 mark and i just kept driving it on a hot summer day in traffic. I drove it probly a good 30 mins over heating and nothign happend to the engine no damage what so ever it just burnt my oil thast was it. It over heated becasue some animal decided it wanted to chew my fan wire.
#5
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Location: Hliðskjálf / Pensacola, FL
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Car: Camaro
Engine: 3800
Transmission: T5
A local car guy had a 2.8l S10... he tried like crazy to kill that motor. Driving on a long stretch of road... neutral + pedal to the floor. Let off a few minutes later and it was fine. He opened up a nitrous bottle into the tbi idling.... afterword it just had a choppy idle and was fine a few minutes later. He ended up selling the motor to a guy and the guy said it was the best motor he had ever had. S10 now has a bolt on L98 in it heheh. Ive heard these motors last forever or die quickly... hopefully my 3.4 will last forever
...you should spray it and see what happens heheh .. just keep increasing till it blows up
-Bud
...you should spray it and see what happens heheh .. just keep increasing till it blows up
-Bud
#6
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Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
I belive there is atech article on bypassing vats, whatever that is
How about just going the road, put in nuetral, revit up nice & high, & slam it into 1st.
How about just going the road, put in nuetral, revit up nice & high, & slam it into 1st.
#7
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Car: 2012 Nissan Leaf
Engine: 80-kW AC synchronous electric motor
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: n/a
Originally posted by Project: 85 2.8 bird
How about just going the road, put in nuetral, revit up nice & high, & slam it into 1st.
How about just going the road, put in nuetral, revit up nice & high, & slam it into 1st.
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#8
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Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Have a garden hose handy, drain the radiator fluid, start it up with a brick on the gas. It may take as much as 20-30 mins but it will blowe sky hi once it does go. It will run and run until it get so hot the postons melt and that will not be a pretty sight and it may even throw a rod out the block.
Matt
Matt
#9
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Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
Originally posted by Xophertony
that would probably just low the tranny up
that would probably just low the tranny up
#10
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Car: 85 Camaro SC
Engine: V6
Transmission: 700r4
I wish I had your 2.8 mine blew up after 10 mins with no water :sillylol: I must have gotten the runt of the litter.
#11
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Have your starter checked or just replace it all together. I bet you is worn and when it heats up it wont start. Mainly has to do with solinoid (SP?). I just went through this. After 2 years I finally replaced the starter / solinoid. Now I have no probs starting.
When the vats system goes on the fritz it tends to not let the car start at all.
When the vats system goes on the fritz it tends to not let the car start at all.
#12
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Originally posted by BitchinRS
Have your starter checked or just replace it all together. I bet you is worn and when it heats up it wont start. Mainly has to do with solinoid (SP?). I just went through this. After 2 years I finally replaced the starter / solinoid. Now I have no probs starting.
When the vats system goes on the fritz it tends to not let the car start at all.
Have your starter checked or just replace it all together. I bet you is worn and when it heats up it wont start. Mainly has to do with solinoid (SP?). I just went through this. After 2 years I finally replaced the starter / solinoid. Now I have no probs starting.
When the vats system goes on the fritz it tends to not let the car start at all.
o yea i have a 3.1 not a 2.8
I wish I had your 2.8 mine blew up after 10 mins with no water I must have gotten the runt of the litter.
i just finished putting the bottom end of my 355 togeather..and im weighting for some parts (arp head bots ejc)
but i need another car to drive (beater)untill i can swap anything!
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Car: 88 BMW 535i
Engine: 3.5L M30
Transmission: 4HP22E
Originally posted by StaticFX2000
I'll pay you $100 plus shipping for that block.
I'll pay you $100 plus shipping for that block.
IIRC, UPS and Fedex wont ship anything over 150lbs.
#17
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Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
I agree with the starter thing....sounds like it's overheating. A cheap solution is to buy a starter heat shield for it.
By the way...I've heard the exact same thing about these 60' V6's. They they either die quickly or live forever. My friend's old 2.8 went through so much hell...he barely changed the oil...ran it with all sorts of failing sensors. It stalled constantly....but it never died. Then I talked to another guy and he says his died after 40-something thousand miles.
By the way...I've heard the exact same thing about these 60' V6's. They they either die quickly or live forever. My friend's old 2.8 went through so much hell...he barely changed the oil...ran it with all sorts of failing sensors. It stalled constantly....but it never died. Then I talked to another guy and he says his died after 40-something thousand miles.
#19
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Car: 2006 'Nox 91 Camaro RS 91 1500 Silv
Engine: GM 3.8L, 305 SBC, 350 SBC
Transmission: Auto, auto, auto
die, die, die, my darling
I had that same problem (not starting when it was hot) I just put some "reflective heat tape" around the solinoid, whoever came up with that word needs a beating, and now it has no problems...That tape really works...it better @ $2/foot
#20
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I had the same problem. Yet, after doing lots of reading on VATS and phoning of the GM dealer for information. I found out, that even if the VATS was the cause, the engine should still crank, but the ignition won't fire and/or the fuel injectors won't spray. The ECU won't allow it, but it should crank. Discovered later on after tapping the starter one day when it wouldn't crank, it would crank. One of the starter brush's was sticking up.
-Dan
-Dan
#21
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Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Not so.. My VATS system disabled my starter solenoid. Car would make a click noise, then refuse to turn over.
#22
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Hm, I've had the key really wet before by accident and all it would do is just turn over and not start and set off the check engine light for the code. One disadvantage of living in Seattle. Heheh. Possibly a different set up per year? *shrug*
-Dan
-Dan
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