Compatibility 2.8 to 3.4
#151
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: BFE, MD
Posts: 4,461
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
#152
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: The Nest
Posts: 506
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1985 GMC Jimmy/1998 Chevy Malibu
Engine: 3.2L turbo Hybrid/bone stock 3100
Transmission: T-5 soon to be 700R4/4T40E
Originally posted by LT1guy
On nearly any used harmionic dampner, there will be a noticeable ridge left in the machined surface by the rubber crank seal in the timing cover...which causes a leak. Rather than throw away an other wise good part, you smear a little locktite on the hub, and tap the sleeve in place, giving you a nice smooth surface again. It works pretty well.
On nearly any used harmionic dampner, there will be a noticeable ridge left in the machined surface by the rubber crank seal in the timing cover...which causes a leak. Rather than throw away an other wise good part, you smear a little locktite on the hub, and tap the sleeve in place, giving you a nice smooth surface again. It works pretty well.
#153
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Johnstown, PA.
Posts: 379
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: Chevy Cobalt & Camaro
Engine: 2.2 DOHC/3.1
Transmission: Not so slushy slush box/Slush Box
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
I have a question not regarding the 2.8-3.4 swap... My car was not equipped with a tach. If I go out and get a gauge cluster w/ a tach on it, How and where do I hook it up? I was thinking somewhere on the distributor... let me know if you have any Idea... And keep you fingers crossed I am gonna try to fix my leak tomorrow.. Well, technically today. I know its coming outta the Intake....
#154
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: ****SoCal, USA****
Posts: 7,604
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When searching for used gauge packages....
the oil pressure MUST read 80 lbs (that indicates it's a V6 set up if no engine) & the tach has the "6" cylinder chip within for proper RPM reading.
MAKE SURE you get the right year speedo set up for your car.
My 1985 is cable driven off tranny.
I also took the plug for the gauge package set up from the wrecked car. I will make the current car wiring harness a duplicate of the gauge plug harness. I "think" that may be easiest path. IF I just plug in my gauge set up to the current idiot light back plug, I blow a fuse.
The heads is new info to me, THANKS
I only have what the GM book says and I set valves & leave them.
Keep dishing out the info.
the oil pressure MUST read 80 lbs (that indicates it's a V6 set up if no engine) & the tach has the "6" cylinder chip within for proper RPM reading.
MAKE SURE you get the right year speedo set up for your car.
My 1985 is cable driven off tranny.
I also took the plug for the gauge package set up from the wrecked car. I will make the current car wiring harness a duplicate of the gauge plug harness. I "think" that may be easiest path. IF I just plug in my gauge set up to the current idiot light back plug, I blow a fuse.
The heads is new info to me, THANKS
I only have what the GM book says and I set valves & leave them.
Keep dishing out the info.
#155
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Johnstown, PA.
Posts: 379
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: Chevy Cobalt & Camaro
Engine: 2.2 DOHC/3.1
Transmission: Not so slushy slush box/Slush Box
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
OK. I got all of the gaskets replaced. How long should I wait to start the car and it be ready for driving. The instructions on the packaging for the RTV Red high heat stuff said 24 hrs... I got it set around 8pm and I need a car by 2pm tomorrow thats about 18hrs should I let it sit or do you think it safe?
Last edited by 87CamaroMan; 08-11-2003 at 03:20 AM.
#156
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: ****SoCal, USA****
Posts: 7,604
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I suggest,
IF the car is operating normal & idling well, give it a shot!
IF the car is accelerating poorly, wait until ya got that problem solved
And the engine itself is running at 180*. also when not exelerating just crusing. its like Chuging. like a train but smaller scale
The 3rd Gen F body with a 3.4
PULLS LIKE A FREIGHT TRAIN,
not runs like a freight train!
Keep at it, you'll solve the problems!
IF all was good (sensors/connections) before the swap, your time & money will NOT be wasted effort!
My 3.4 swap failures include
Cat Convertor
Transmission (to much 3.4 power for the "rebuilt" tranny!)
MAS Sensors
Fuel pump/filter
Oil filter housing gasket
Alternator/ICMs (alternator voltage spike fried ICM-6 of them!)
AC system (I love R12!)
Failed trannys after the 3.4 swap are number one complaint! Unless tranny was rebuilt prior to engine swap.
Keep at it!
IF the car is operating normal & idling well, give it a shot!
IF the car is accelerating poorly, wait until ya got that problem solved
And the engine itself is running at 180*. also when not exelerating just crusing. its like Chuging. like a train but smaller scale
The 3rd Gen F body with a 3.4
PULLS LIKE A FREIGHT TRAIN,
not runs like a freight train!
Keep at it, you'll solve the problems!
IF all was good (sensors/connections) before the swap, your time & money will NOT be wasted effort!
My 3.4 swap failures include
Cat Convertor
Transmission (to much 3.4 power for the "rebuilt" tranny!)
MAS Sensors
Fuel pump/filter
Oil filter housing gasket
Alternator/ICMs (alternator voltage spike fried ICM-6 of them!)
AC system (I love R12!)
Failed trannys after the 3.4 swap are number one complaint! Unless tranny was rebuilt prior to engine swap.
Keep at it!
#157
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Johnstown, PA.
Posts: 379
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: Chevy Cobalt & Camaro
Engine: 2.2 DOHC/3.1
Transmission: Not so slushy slush box/Slush Box
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
Hello, I replaced the gasket and it must have slipped or something since I cut it and my oil is like a milkshake I am hoping I didn't hurt the head gasket I don't see how I could have I am going to just get a new intake manifold since mine is/was on its last legs, try again and if it doesn't stop the leak and work I am just gonna rip the whole intire car apart and start over. I haven't even touched the car in a week. Do any of you know where I can get a rebuild kit for the 3.4 autozone and Advance Auto doesn't have them. I looked for one at summits website and didn't see any. let me know.
#158
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: valley forge pa
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 84 Firebird
Engine: 2.8l
now i got a stupid ? but do u have to move the motor mounts for the 3.4l on the cars chassis???? or is it direct drop in usin the 2.8l motor mount locations??????
#160
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: ****SoCal, USA****
Posts: 7,604
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry to hear of your problems.
What engine gasket set?
Buy the COMPLETE engine rebuild gasket set kit for THE ORIGINAL YEAR OF YOUR VEHICLES ENGINE.
Ex.
My 1995 engine in my 1985 Firebird?
I bought a engine gasket kit for a 1985 2.8, as I was putting the 1985 stuff on the 1995 long block.
Motor mounts
When swapping to the 3.4 long block INTO your 3rd gen chassis, you use the original vehicle engine mounts.
When you buy the 3.4 from the wrecking yard, try to obtain the 4th gen 60* V6 FRAME motor mounts. Those fit the 3rd gen chassis, too.
What engine gasket set?
Buy the COMPLETE engine rebuild gasket set kit for THE ORIGINAL YEAR OF YOUR VEHICLES ENGINE.
Ex.
My 1995 engine in my 1985 Firebird?
I bought a engine gasket kit for a 1985 2.8, as I was putting the 1985 stuff on the 1995 long block.
Motor mounts
When swapping to the 3.4 long block INTO your 3rd gen chassis, you use the original vehicle engine mounts.
When you buy the 3.4 from the wrecking yard, try to obtain the 4th gen 60* V6 FRAME motor mounts. Those fit the 3rd gen chassis, too.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post