KED85

Like I have alway suggested.
Get ALL YA CAN when ya purchase your 3.4 long block.
Works out way cheaper in the long run.
HOPEFULLY you can easily score a stick set up.
We've had only one or two stick 3.4 swappers so far.
Last stick swapper tried to reuse his original clutch set up.
Had to remove his clutch for a new one a short time after his completion & road usage of 3.4 swap.
I think a 3.4 & a stick in our lighter 3rd gen F bodies would be so sweet a fun ride.
Best thoughts for your search.

The 3rd Gen "Y" pipe totally rebolts right up to the 3.4 manifolds.
Without a single problem, unless an owner created problem.
You should have had zero problems reconnecting your "Y" pipe.
Give it a shot again, serious, not a problem with your "Y" pipe connection should be reported.
Even on my S-10 Blazer, not a problem hooking up the "Y" pipe to my 3.4 in there.

redraif

Crap! Crap! Crap! The 3.4 block I was looking at getting this weekend is out of a stick car...and of course I have an automatic!

So anyone know what the cost is on a 3.4 flywheel off the top of their head? Too bad I don't have a 3.1 or I could test that same part # theory and use my old one...Heck maybe this will allow me to get it at a better cost...he quoted $650 for the whole motor...accesories & all...course he is not sure if it is complete. Again more negotiation room...maybe I can get it down to $500!

Wish me luck!

TomP

Red, what year is your 2.8? If the 2.8 is 87-up, the crank is balanced on it's own. The flywheel itself might be balanced, but just for "itself"- getting the flywheel re-balanced won't affect the crank's balance.

In fact the harmonic balancers are also neutral balanced...

Dale

iTrader: (12)

I belive I have a 3.4l auto flywheel. Pay for shipping and box, its yours.

Gumby

Makes sense, if the 3.4 is an 87+ the crank is already balanced, just have the 2.8 flex plate netural balanced [knock off the weight] and away you go.

Right???

Matt

I know a guy who did that by hanging the flywheel from a string and "made" it netural, he also built his own shifter from the hardware store. He was a cheap bastard but was putting a old 5 speed into an 87 monte carlo and the parts just wernt afordable.

redraif

Tom...I have an 87 2.8L. The dealer rebuilt the bottom end, but did not balance it. Thats why I want to do the swap...

The yard is looking now for a 3.4 Flywheel for an Auto, seeing if they have one lying around...If they strike out I will snag that bad boy from you Dale...Thanks!

Dale

iTrader: (12)

Just pm me if you need it. I may want to trade for the manual one. We'll work out details if/when time comes.

KED85

Make sure you get the lowest milage 3.4 available to you.
Regardless of transmission choice, grab the correct flywheel from your new parts source (Dale).
The 3.4 balancer also has a part for the Distributorless Ignition System. I just leave that metal plate sensor part inside.
Due to the fact that I was getting a 1995 3.4 balancer part & I was gonna throw away a 1985 2.8 balancer part, no contest in balancer choice.
I use the repair sleeve $4 from Fel Pro (use choice of a 2.8 engine, this part fits 3.4 balancers).
I recall you saying you recently purchased a new 2.8 balancer
Since your previous engine had a balancing problem, stick with all the 3.4 stuff you can score in this one purchase. It's a sure thing everything fits & works right.
You're gonna do great in your purchase of this used 3.4 mill.
Fair price for the engine, too.
Better if scored for less cash!!
Try to grab the 3.4 "Y" pipe & CC, too, in deal.
Good large "Y" pipe for modification & the CC will be a very efficent & 2 1/2" opening HiFlo item. If you do not have a 2 1/2" exhaust "I" pipe, now is the time to grab one at a great cost, too, as 4th Gen this will fit a 3rd Gen chassis easily, too.

The_Raven

This is where some in depth research will clear up what misconceptions and assumptions are being made by this Joe guy.

If you look at a flywheel (manual) or flexplate (auto) from an '87 and up 60*V6 (2.8, 3.1, 3.4) you will notice that they all use a nuetral balanced flywheel. The internal/external balacing are determined by crank design and balance, not by stroke. Yes GM did go through "the trouble" of doing this, on the '87 and up 60*V6, previous to '87 the 60*V6 was externally balanced, and would require the use of the matching flywheel/flexplate to that engine, it is year dependant not engine displacement or "educated guessing" AKA assuming.

The 3.1 and 3.4 use the same stroke, 3.31", where as the 2.8L uses a 2.99", but again, the balance is determined by design, not stroke.

But you know, you don't have to take my word for it there are many, many other sources of infomation, like the GM service manuals, GM Performance build books, A lot of websites, which the 60degreeV6 site has many members that are very knowledgable and are dedicated to researching about and modifying the 60*V6, do yourselves all favours and at least peruse through that site and get some books on these engines, you will see I'm not talking out of my *** here.

I'm done with this whole subject, if assuming is the way people want to do their research, fine, I'll take the other route and know.
Really I'm not trying to be a dick, I'm just trying to add in pertinant info that I see would help in doing any swap or modification to these engines and when I can on the chassis specific areas.

87CamaroMan

AHh help... Its in and running... well sorta... It idles fine but as soon as I hit the gas in gear and outta gear Barley anything.. just strugles to get the 10mph.. I am thinking Timing... tell me what you thing...

redraif

Ked...Its a 50,000 mile running motor...so that is good! The best mileage I have found so far...I will see what deals they can get me on the exhaust parts...I do have a new high flow cat 2.5 in and out...my pipes are 2 1/4 in, so if I can get the 2.5 "I" pipe I will....is the Y-pipe 2.5 as well?

Dale I think that swap is a good plan. I never heard back from the guy, so I am planing to swap w/ you!

Raven...I might have misunderstood what Joe was saying. Thank you for your information. This is helping me learn alot!

So Saturday I will go get the 3.4... and let you guys know what deals I get!

redraif

Probably timing...My car would barely run and was sputtering when we tore it down and rebuilt the top end...once the timing was right it was ok.

Heck the dist could be 180 degrees out...car will still run, but not right...

87CamaroMan

Cool.... That was what I was thinking.. I this is my 1st swap ever and I am a novice in Gear head statis.. I can pick up stuff real easy and quick... All of my SO CALLED friends that were gonna help me never showed up so I got stuck doing it by my self I just asked a mechanic my Dad knows he said I had to line up piston one on the comression side or something like that I have it wrote down... So I probably just screwed up.
I'll get that fixed 1st thing tomorrow... I have been with out my Camaro for 3 weeks now... I am going through with draw.... I have to cart around in a junky VW Golf....

Project: 85 2.8 bird

Take your time & do it right the first time. I did my swap myself also. OF course it wasn't my main ride but take it easy & safe.

KED85

A 50,000 mile motor intact & complete for the $500-$650 range IS A SCREAMING DEAL!
Get all the pipes ya can.
If the car was cared for, this stuff MAY be of extra value. Try to see the car before this stuff is requested and removed.
Yes, 1995 3.4 vehicle pipes are larger that original vehicle factory stock stuff. Don't forget street legal headers are enroute from PaceSetter. The 1995 exhaust pipe stuff will need be "altered" by a pipe welder. GM uses decent exhaust pipe metal these days.
When dealing at the yard, pay in cash & say that's it at where ya wanna stop.
IF it's your day, you win big time.
IF the guys says all that stuff for $650 GRAB IT!
Serious a 50K motor is like a mill, "just broken in". My Firebird started at 44K (in 2001) & my Blazer has a 50K mill. Literally insert new timing chain & tensioner, rebuild your distributor & just run as is.
Once sorted out, then open engine for for better performance.

Extra stuff to grab is the starter and the chassis frame mounts. They fit in the Third gen chassis. These 1995 model year engine frame mounts seems to be in great shape. The LONG metal 3.4 motor mounts are of no use & those are to be tossed during the swap. SCORE the Power steering pump (easy pulley swap for a "new" rebuilt unit) & the AC Compressor.
The 1995 3.4 alternator, may fit your chassis. It did not for my 1985 model year vehicles.

Did you rebuild the original vehicle distributor before you reinserted into the 3.4 mill?
How was "the pick up" of previous engine? Decent?
These 3.4 have tons of TORQUE that's the sweet deal on this swap/upgrade.
No such thing as timing off.
If it runs, you hit the right spot.
May need a distributor rebuild.

redraif

Dist...freshly rebuilt.
Timing chain...new...
Tensioner...new!

So I got all new stuff to slap on this baby...woohoo!

KED85

Good for you!
Your deal and time and effort sound like a perfect match this time!
Good going!
Get a balancer sleeve repair (ask for one for a 2.8) piece for the 3.4 balancer & you're set!

LT1guy

iTrader: (1)

Let me clarify things a bit...I'm the Joe Redraif was referring to. Though I have more hands on experience with this engine than a good 90+% on this board, I don't know and don't claim to know every little detail about the 60 degree V6s. I'm a V8 guy and always will be. Redraif, my girlfriend, asked me what could be the reason that the harmonic damper and flywheel would be different from 2.8 to 3.4; I replied that it could be a case of internal Vs external balance , and from what you just stated I was right, though it was differentiated by a year and not displacement. No, this isn't determined by engine size necessarily, or stroke, but on several engines in the past GM has taken the cheap way out and externally balanced the larger, longer stroked versions of a particular engine family. The 454 big block and the 400 small block are examples of this. Buy an aftermarket crank for either, and it will likely be internally balanced, wheras the original stuff was not.
Raven, you make some good points and have obviously done your homework on the 60 degree V6, but no one knows it all. Lighten up. Ked and Dale and Tom P and all the other dedicated V6 guys are hear to help, but don't expect much help when you insult them for their efforts. They each have their own style and areas of expertise..take their advice for what its worth, and if its not enough, look elsewhere for your answer.

The_Raven

LT1guy, I have no beef with you or really anyone here for that matter, just with certain instances where "fact" is replaced by speculation that seems to come from little to no research. I'm not saying that any of the guys you mentioned don't help, or don't at least look for an answer, but when I ask for a specific detailed answer and I don't get one, just a reply telling me to use certain parts, that I do not like. I like to know why a certain parts would or could work better than the next part, I think it comes from being thrifty, I don't like to waste time or money looking for a certain part that may or may not be easily had. Around here, 3.4 Camaro engines are hard to come by, at least for a decent price, and even then they are usually just a long block, maybe the intake might still be on it, but the flywheel and flexplate are not part of the long block and neither are the accesories, in most cases, I did buy a '95 3100 for a couple bills and since the guys pulling the engine didn't feel like pulling the other parts off, I got them, but that is rare.
I pointed out the flywheel/flexplate issue, due to the newer cars ('87 and up) since the wheel/plate should be able to be used on the 3.4, saving some cash, if that was not the case, due to something that maybe I have not read about or seen, I wanted to know what it was that was different, instead I got a reply that was not helpful at all. I get offended when things like that happen, since to me that is not answering my question, but running circles around it, know what I mean?

When I post I put as much info as I can, especially if there are other alternatives that may save time or cash, where I can.

I am not new to these engines, I have been researching them for about 6 or 7 years now, pretty hardcore and before that, just a mild interest.

I am also not new to cars, I can not remember a time that I didn't at least have a wrench in hand, even if it was only to pass it to my uncle or grandfather.

Really I'm not a dick, even though sometimes I can be, I just like my questions to be answered clearly, with details, not a run around, assuming that I know very little about the subject, which is what I read. I may be new here, but not as I stated to cars or engines, and am willing to share what I know, if someone asks, or give alterante routes that will do the same job, at the same time I will not suggest cutting corners, I believe if you're going to do teh job, do it right the first time, or at the very least, to the best of your abilities.

If you(general you ) thought that my replies, or at least one in particular near the top of this page was directed to everyone, it was not, only one person in particular, and if you've read this far through this reply, I'm sure you now understand why.

If you (again general you ) think I'm a dick, or you do like my ways of doing things, that's fine, you don't need to, and honestly I don't care if people like me or not, for who I am or what I do, but I am willing to give a hand, whether it is a figurative hand or a literal hand, I am willing to do that.

I'll turn the thread back over to to the topic at hand, and will move on, remember we are all here to do the same thing, work on our cars, I may just have a different way of doing it, as I've been told I do.

oh well, I digress........

redraif

This is LT1guy again...on redraif's computer. I didn't take any offense, nor was I trying to be too hard on you, make judgement on you, or anything else. Its just this is one of the few boards where everything stays relatively friendly, and we want to keep it that way.

BTW, I checked out your site...looks like you have a pretty cool project going on there. Want to share any info on that (here or in a new post?)? I'm planning a couple turbo projects myself, and would love to hear more about what you're doing and how. There are lots of ways to achieve the same goals, esp in turbo applications.

Also, we got the 3.4 today...there was no alternator, ac compressor, coil packs, or tensioner, and it was already pulled so no y-pipe or cat either. Still, at $600 for a 50k mile motor, we can't complain. Also scored a 455 Pontiac short block for $50, but that's another story...

Dale

iTrader: (12)

lt1/redraif, you didn't need to much of that stuff anyway. So no biggie.

I did find the flywheel/flexplate and brought it home. If you need it, PM with addy, and its on its way. I will try and find bolts for it also.

BTW, did that engine have the plastic cover that goes over where the throttle cable attaches to the TB? If so I would LOVE to get that piece from ya

KED85

YOU GOT A 50K 3.4 MOTOR $650!! GREAT SCORE!
All those items missing aren't important, were just goodies to barter/swap/sell to make the overall swap cost lower!
Have a great time doing the Boogie!
Really you're gonna come out way ahead this time.
Enjoy the project!

87CamaroMan

OK. I took it to get put in time today. Found out the timing was perfect. So they ran a computer diagnostics on it. there was the typical code 13 O2 sensor, 32 erg. But 25 the Manifold Air temp sensor was way outta wack. it was reading that the temp was 362* for like 10 min then it went to 103* where is was at, then up to 355*, I am not sure where that sensor is located. And its not going outta Closed Loop, AND its not learning the Air/fuel Mixture. I was also told to ask about prom problems that could be causing this. And the engine itself is running at 180*. also when not exelerating just crusing. its like Chuging. like a train but smaller scale

Dale

iTrader: (12)

on a 2.8/3.1 you dont have a mat, you should have a IAT. It should be in your intake tube, I belive in the dual snorkle intake up front.


IMO, sounds like its talking about the engine tempature sensor, which is ECT, which is in the front, top of the intake, almost right under the throttle body.

I doubt it will learn the air/fuel mix with a blown o2 sensor, go get that one checked/fixed.

As for prom, with a 3.4l block. You dont change a thing. Everyone else swapped with current ecm settings, and no problems.

KED85

From what I've learned,
IF ya use all original vehicle sensors, relocate them all to the original vehicle locations on the 3.4 long block, all is ok.
NO need for a single original vehicle computer prom change.
None.
Your lack of power is connected to probably ignition.
Have you rebuilt your original vehicle distributor yet? Have you replaced the original vehicle distributor electronic internals?
IF the car ran ok before swap, it should be just as good, now, with lots more pep.
You did upgrade to the 3.4 injectors, correct?
Did you do that upgrade and made sure absolutly NO dirt entered the original vehicle fuel rail?
The sensor was an item left on the original vehicle manifold, which is swapped over to the 3.4 long block, so that item should remain from past vehicle performance.
Make very sure NO electrical wire harness is NOT being melted by the EGR set up to MPFI manifold.
On way home from my finished 3.4 swap, my fuel injector manifold wiring was "partially melted" by EGR tube to manifold. Shut down my engine while driving & I was flipping out!! Harness moved away from that metal hose, let cool & all has been ok since.

EGR is simple fix.
Remove it, clean all carbon in the base of the EGR.
Next attack the vacuum hose connections and make VERY SURE the hoses are connected securly.

90% of time, "you caused" these problems by touching the old fragile vacuum hoses. I spent one whole day repairing the vacuum hose set up and later on another half day, too.
Try the simple fixes, before your tear into some answers.
But a distributor rebuild or new rebuilt item is almost mandatory in the 3.4 swap.

Keep at it!
Once the problems are solved, only the tire bills are the new problems.

FYI My Firebird (1985 model year), I use all original vehicle sensors, in their proper location.
For over 10,000 miles (some teething pains, yes) & I blow thru CA Smog testing 100% EFFORTLESS & RUNNING so emission result clean.
MAKE SURE you have 3.4 spec'd spark plugs, too!
Hope this helps.
Make very sure, your ECM/computer is error code free after every attempt at problem solving. Or codes could pop up that are wrong.

LT1guy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I knew we didn't really need any of that stuff, I just wanted to get the price down based on that, or like you said get trading material. If anyone needs a 3.4 intake, complete with throttle body, rails and injectors, complete 3.4 heads, pushrods, the factory cam and lifters, 3.4 exhaust manifolds with the EGR,or a low mileage NAPA harmonic balancer (87 2.8), PM me or Redraif. Hopefully we'll get started on the project soon, maybe before the TA Nats. Thanks guys!

KED85

A big suggestion...
DON'T LET GO OF THOSE 3.4 HEADS.
Before they are reused, stick in new valve guides and pressure check the valve springs.
I hope your swap boogie project works very well!

Ebay all the 3.4 stuff as a package, that's how I got rid of everything.

I can't wait for the PaceSetter Street Legal Headers (fgerle@pacesetterexhaust.com - contact him to express your interest in this product!!) to add to the 2.8->3.4 Long Block Swap Boogie package. Perhaps by Christmas time, the PaceSetter 60* V6 3rd Gen Street Legal Headers will be available for us to purchase.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

Dale, Irecall seeing a MAT eror code for the 85 v6 in the serviec manual, but let me check agaian, could've been fr the 5.0 TPI instead. New wires have improved exhaust, but still running rich a bit, gonna try that emissions pass snake oil today, after driving around about 20 mins before going in.

FYI, the higher the reading from an O2 sensor, the richer it's "reading", for tuning purposes.

LT1guy

iTrader: (1)

Weird thing happened last night while pulling the heads off the 3.4...I was loosening one with a breaker bar, and it BROKE!!!! I should be able to get it out, but I have never seen a head bolt break like that, esp not when removing it by hand.

KED85

The specs for the 3.4 are available in the GM Performace Parts Catalog available at any GM Dealer.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

I hope you have better luck w/that than I did w/the tranny mount bolts.

87CamaroMan

Ok... I have a masive oil Leak (2qts per day) comming outta the back of my Intake manifold. I am gonna open it up and replace all of the gaskets... I got the "felpro" gasket kit for my intake. is there anyway of getting around of loosening my Rocker arms and pulling the rods to replace the gasket on the inside. I do not have a Torque rench. And I have never done that before and am a little afraid of screwing it up. If I were to screw it up and hurt the engine I would be done.. I have put WAY too much money into this car almost 2k, might not seem much to most but from what I make it is. I almost gave up on it a few times. please help

Dale

iTrader: (12)

Nope, no way around removing the rockers, and pushrods

Zone says the rent tools for "free". You just have to put deposit down, and get it back when you return tool in same shape.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

are you talking about the intake manifold gaskets on the base manifold? When I did my swap & put the 85 manifold on (it has teh cold start valve, 3.4 manifold didn't) I didn't have to loosen any rockers, I cut teh gasket where it said so in the service manual &* haynes, then gooped it up nice when I put the manifold on it. It hasn't leaked any oil, & yes, I also have the sbc distributer gasket on as well

KED85

AHH DETAILS.......
Let's help.....
First find the EXACT location of the leak.
Did ya slip in new rear main seal on crank?
Distributor gasket set up?
Did ya use the new gasket included in the engine gasket rebuild kit? On distributor shaft, did ya include the use of the Small Block Chevy Distributor gasket?
How good are the valve cover gaskets?
You have $2K under hood?
Cheaper than a new car!
ALSO the oil filter housing?
You swapped that?
I swapped my oil filter housing & gave myself a hugh leak.
On the balancer, did ya use a balancer repair sleeve?
IF ya believe your intake is leaking 2 quarts or so.....
You would have hugh vacuum leaks and probably no acceptable "idle RPM".
Hope these are tips...
Keep at it, so worth it!

Project: 85 2.8 bird

Karl, is there anyone who swaped the oil filter houseings that hasn't had an oil yet?

Dale

iTrader: (12)

Swapped housings, no leak here

Wish I would have kept the orginal one on it though

87CamaroMan

I have located the leak its has to be coming out of the back of the intake. Its puddling up on the back of the block near the distributor... I have had no leaks out of the Filter housing. I took your advice and did that right... Parts store couldn't get a distributor Gasket. So I got that RTV red high heat gasket in a tube. When I rip the intake off this wk end I am gonna make me a gasket for the distributor. And of course redo my intake... You sure I can cut the gasket, Project: 85 2.8 bird It says "DO NOT CUT" on it. and has a metal going through it... I called Autozone about the loan a tool thing. I just have to buy it use it and take it back... but the only TQ wrench they have it the old fasion clunky one with a dial on it... Oh and now its stalls out when my RPM are really low like at Idle.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

HOLD ON, HOLD ON

I thought my intake was leaking too!!!! Tuned out to be bad distrib oring gasket, and it was new!!! I got wrong size!!!! Check that before pulling that intake back off

Project: 85 2.8 bird

I cut mine and it doesn't leak. just make sure it's gooped up & not bent too up too much when doing this.

from the 1985 Pontiac Firebird Service Manual:

2.8 Liter V-6 6A2-9

Intake Manifold
......Instalation
Step 2:
install new intake gaskets on cylinder heads. Hold in place by extending the ridge RTV bead (for the ends of the base manifold) up 6mm onto the gasket ends. The new intake gaskets will have to be cut, where indicated, to install behind pushrods. Cut only those areas that aer necessary.

The_Raven

For sealing against an oil leak from the distributer (or oil pump drive for those that use DIS ignition), use the O-ring, there is too much oil pressure coming into this area, for a regular gasket to keep it sealed, the right lifter oil galley, feeds right into the distributer/oil pump drive bore.

There is also the issue with gear mesh, between the cam and the distributer/drive, when a gasket is placed under the base of the dist/drive, it will place the mesh near the bottom of the gear, which cam wear out either gear quickly if the gasket is too thick, or either gear already has a wear pattern.

If you use both the O-ring and the gasket, your not protecting against anything more than you would by just using the O-ring.

The O-ring works, this technique was used for a reason, and only when the O-ring gets old, and goes through many, many heat cycles it will get hard and not seal properly, this usually happens with years of trouble free service between times when it will need to be changed.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

nothing wrong w/ $0.79 backup insurance

KED85

ANY cheap insurance against a leakage back at that distribtor base spot is fine by me.
I paid like $1 for that gasket.
My Small Block Chevy distributor gasket & slight film of Black RTV on both sides of gasket set up hasn't leaked since my swap of over 10,000 miles ago. I still use the new "o" ring, also
Same with suggestion of using a balancer sleeve repair kit for your balancer.
At $4, why not cure a future leak right away?
The Crank Rear Main Seal is a bit more expensive, but so worth the cost to replace when ya doing the 2.8->3.4 Long Block Swap Boogie. Very easy access while engine is on stand.
After I do gaskets sealing chore, I leave the re-sealing project to cure for a day before engine/vehicle usage. Seems to help.

The_Raven

I could say something else here, but I won't not worth the hassle....

Anyway, what do you mean by repair sleeve, your not talking about the front main seal, Are you? If you are they are 2 different parts.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

Karls talking about the harmonic balancer sleeve.

LT1guy

iTrader: (1)

From what you're saying about the leak, chances are its intake or the distributor, but just a note for future reference; If you get a massive oil leak at the rear of the engine, that appears to be in the rear main seal area (dripping out the inspection cover on the trans), its a good chance its the rear CAMSHAFT seal. There is a three bolt plate that covers the cam, and when the seal goes it will dump a ton of oil in no time. If you ever have your trans out, its good insurance to replace the rear main seal and this cam seal (get it from the dealer, I have yet to find a parts store that stocks it). The 3.4 we're putting in Redraif's car only has 50k, but all the gaskets and seals, including these, are getting replaced before it goes in, just for added insurance. The seal on the oil filter adapter can be a real pain, too, as Ked mentioned.

KED85

I got balancer repair sleeve from Fel Pro & another band.
One from AutoZone and other at Pep Boys store.
Yes, the sleeve slips over balancer sbout.
One should do this when ya replace the timing chain, tensioner & TC cover gasket.
NOW that I read about the cam cover.......
I had to much fun doing the oil filter housing cover while engine in car. Access thru wheel well for replacement operation.

LT1guy

iTrader: (1)

BTW the 3.4s (at least the 95 Camaro 3.4 we have) have dished pistons, not flattops with no valve reliefs like the 87 2.8 in Redraif's car now. Hopefully the larger bore size will compensate for the compression loss. I'll take pics before the heads go on, and some pics comparing the 3.4 heads to the (ported) 2.8 heads. Also, the valve springs on 3.4s are not "dual springs". They're singel springs with a damper, just like nearly every other stock GM product. I haven't verified the larger seats, but I will once the other heads come off.

The_Raven

Soooo, what's the point in using the repair sleeve?

LT1guy

iTrader: (1)

On nearly any used harmionic dampner, there will be a noticeable ridge left in the machined surface by the rubber crank seal in the timing cover...which causes a leak. Rather than throw away an other wise good part, you smear a little locktite on the hub, and tap the sleeve in place, giving you a nice smooth surface again. It works pretty well.