DECOMMISSIONED: Read Me First (old)
04-04-2003, 11:38 PM
#1
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Read Me First
Here's a couple answers to commonly asked questions:
Is there a turbo/supercharger kit for my V6? Ans: No, you'd have to completely fab everything up, which is why no one on this board to date has done it. Many have talked about it, but none have followed through. So if you talk about it and get laughed at or just not taken seriously, you now know why.
I want to start modding my 6....where do I start? Ans: Do a search for TomP's full tuneup.
My engine needs a rebuild OR I still don't have enough power OR I have a high mileage engine, what do I do? Ans: Well, any high mileage engine should have a new timing chain thrown in. Refreshing this will do wonders. Still not enough or need a complete rebuild? Honestly, the cheapest way to do this would be to find a 3.4L shortblock out of a 93-95 F-body (you can find them in junkyards) and swap it in. It's a straightforward, direct swap...and it'll fool Cali tests.
What is the best exhaust? Ans: For the money, most people go with a full dynomax catback. At around 150 and a direct bolt in, it's hard to beat.
What about lowering springs? Ans: I think that DropZone (only found them on Ebay) makes them for V6's, but none of the major companies do. EDIT: Suspension Techniques makes them too.
Can I cut my springs? Ans: Yes, but it's not recommended....it changes the spring rate and decreases handling.
FYI-If you do drop your car, then you'll need an adjustable panhard rod to recenter the rear, and LCA relocation brackets to drop the LCA's lower if you want to correct the suspension geometry you just F****D up by lowering the car.
If you guys have anymore, post em. Be warned though, if I don't think it belongs here, I'm deleting the post. Only questions/answers, no comments. If you have a problem with mine or someone's question/answer, then PM....that's what it's there for.
Is there a turbo/supercharger kit for my V6? Ans: No, you'd have to completely fab everything up, which is why no one on this board to date has done it. Many have talked about it, but none have followed through. So if you talk about it and get laughed at or just not taken seriously, you now know why.
I want to start modding my 6....where do I start? Ans: Do a search for TomP's full tuneup.
My engine needs a rebuild OR I still don't have enough power OR I have a high mileage engine, what do I do? Ans: Well, any high mileage engine should have a new timing chain thrown in. Refreshing this will do wonders. Still not enough or need a complete rebuild? Honestly, the cheapest way to do this would be to find a 3.4L shortblock out of a 93-95 F-body (you can find them in junkyards) and swap it in. It's a straightforward, direct swap...and it'll fool Cali tests.
What is the best exhaust? Ans: For the money, most people go with a full dynomax catback. At around 150 and a direct bolt in, it's hard to beat.
What about lowering springs? Ans: I think that DropZone (only found them on Ebay) makes them for V6's, but none of the major companies do. EDIT: Suspension Techniques makes them too.
Can I cut my springs? Ans: Yes, but it's not recommended....it changes the spring rate and decreases handling.
FYI-If you do drop your car, then you'll need an adjustable panhard rod to recenter the rear, and LCA relocation brackets to drop the LCA's lower if you want to correct the suspension geometry you just F****D up by lowering the car.
If you guys have anymore, post em. Be warned though, if I don't think it belongs here, I'm deleting the post. Only questions/answers, no comments. If you have a problem with mine or someone's question/answer, then PM....that's what it's there for.
Last edited by Ovrclck350; 04-08-2003 at 05:25 PM.
04-04-2003, 11:49 PM
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Car: 85 Camaro SC
Engine: V6
Transmission: 700r4
LCA's are lower control arms, for anyone who doesn't know.
If you want headers for your V6 go here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=160965
There are many many old but useful threads in the data base to help you out. This is the greatest button in the world use it wisely
If you want headers for your V6 go here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=160965
There are many many old but useful threads in the data base to help you out. This is the greatest button in the world use it wisely
04-05-2003, 01:04 AM
#3
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Added helpful hints from AGood2.8
A V6 transmission will not bolt to a V8- different pattern. He's a plate that should mate the V6 trans to a V8 for $65 (note:no one here has tried this yet) http://www.speedwaymotors.com/produc...o=91&redirect=
3.4 block is stronger than the 2.8/3.1 blocks. Stronger castings/Better for hot roding.
Average third gen V6 1/4 mile time stock- 17's sec range
Optimal exhaust size (catback) for a 60*V6 is 2 1/2"pipe tubing.
gutted cats or high flow cats will only show improvements above about 4000-4500 rpms
3.4 block is stronger than the 2.8/3.1 blocks. Stronger castings/Better for hot roding.
Average third gen V6 1/4 mile time stock- 17's sec range
Optimal exhaust size (catback) for a 60*V6 is 2 1/2"pipe tubing.
gutted cats or high flow cats will only show improvements above about 4000-4500 rpms
Last edited by AGood2.8; 10-27-2003 at 04:09 PM.
04-05-2003, 06:59 PM
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Good idea, Overclk350!
A) 90% of power/driveability/reliability problems can be fixed by a major tuneup. That's why a major tuneup should be your first mod. <a href="http://www.geocities.com/tomp_3rdgen/majortuneup.htm" target=new>Click here for my major tuneup message, opens in a new window.</a>
B) If you're new and don't have a manual yet, buy the $15 Haynes 82-92 Camaro or 82-92 Firebird manual. It will get you off to a good, "beginner-level" start. The essential manual is the GM Service Manual, available new from http://www.helminc.com - don't use the Haynes for diagnostic procedures. Sometimes you can find the Helms on eBay.com.
C) Spend $60 on a brand name (ex: Husky, Craftsman, SK) socket set. Make sure your set has "6 point" sockets in it. 99% of the time, you will use metric sockets on your 2.8/3.1. Buy a cheap $15 Walmart set and you'll ruin your sockets and bolts and cause a mess. Ruin a bolt bad enough, and you'll have to pay someone to remove it, and you might have to buy a replacement socket. That's another bonus about the brand name socket sets- LIFETIME WARRANTY. You only buy it once.
D) Besides the engine and bolt-pattern for the transmission, just about everything else on our V6 f-bodies is the same as for a v8 f-body. Use the internet catalogs and http://www.summitracing.com to find part #s; chances are, if it's spec'd for a v8 305/350 Camaro/Firebird 82-92, it'll work on our V6's.
A) 90% of power/driveability/reliability problems can be fixed by a major tuneup. That's why a major tuneup should be your first mod. <a href="http://www.geocities.com/tomp_3rdgen/majortuneup.htm" target=new>Click here for my major tuneup message, opens in a new window.</a>
B) If you're new and don't have a manual yet, buy the $15 Haynes 82-92 Camaro or 82-92 Firebird manual. It will get you off to a good, "beginner-level" start. The essential manual is the GM Service Manual, available new from http://www.helminc.com - don't use the Haynes for diagnostic procedures. Sometimes you can find the Helms on eBay.com.
C) Spend $60 on a brand name (ex: Husky, Craftsman, SK) socket set. Make sure your set has "6 point" sockets in it. 99% of the time, you will use metric sockets on your 2.8/3.1. Buy a cheap $15 Walmart set and you'll ruin your sockets and bolts and cause a mess. Ruin a bolt bad enough, and you'll have to pay someone to remove it, and you might have to buy a replacement socket. That's another bonus about the brand name socket sets- LIFETIME WARRANTY. You only buy it once.
D) Besides the engine and bolt-pattern for the transmission, just about everything else on our V6 f-bodies is the same as for a v8 f-body. Use the internet catalogs and http://www.summitracing.com to find part #s; chances are, if it's spec'd for a v8 305/350 Camaro/Firebird 82-92, it'll work on our V6's.
Last edited by TomP; 01-04-2005 at 12:50 AM.
04-05-2003, 08:18 PM
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Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
I think TomP means 12 Point Sockets" , as the intake manifold bolts have those.
I have this thread: CAI/Ram Air ideas going o for those looking into improved/better air induction.
I have this thread: CAI/Ram Air ideas going o for those looking into improved/better air induction.
04-05-2003, 08:50 PM
#6
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
No, TomP means 6 point sockets. These allow more torque to be applied to a bolt, and protect the bolt heads better than 12 point sockets. As to intake bolts having 12 point heads, well, my '86 doesn't. If some models do, then a single 12 point socket should be bought separately. A beginner's socket set should have 6 point sockets in them. Buy 12 point sockets later- if you need them. I haven't used a 12 point in quite some time; and I doubt a beginner is going to be taking off their intake right away.
[edit] Hm, just re-reading this, and seems like I was coming off like I was being a jerk- wasn't trying to be! Just clarifying.
[edit] Hm, just re-reading this, and seems like I was coming off like I was being a jerk- wasn't trying to be! Just clarifying.
Last edited by TomP; 04-09-2003 at 04:11 PM.
04-06-2003, 11:05 PM
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Car: 85 Camaro SC
Engine: V6
Transmission: 700r4
Invest on a pair of saftey glasses when you work under your car. Theres so much debrits and whatnot that can get into your eye. My plenum has the 12 point bolts on it, thats about the only thing on my motor that uses them.
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04-14-2003, 12:03 PM
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I thought of another thing. If you plan on doing any work on the interior of your car, you should invest in some quality TORX sockets. The interiors on our cars use mostly this type of screws.
04-17-2003, 02:28 PM
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#1 Thing to remember is: BE SAFE!
Most people that are new to working on cars are going to be cautious, but some are not going to think about it. It isn't worth you getting hurt to save a few dollars.
Never rely on a jack alone to hold the car up if you are going to be under it. Wear safety glasses when grinding and spraying stuff. When in doubt, ask someone who has more experience than you do.
Also: Nitrous is readily available and a good upgrade for our V6s. I use a 75 HP shot and feel confident that any 60 degree V6 in decent shape can handle that on a fairly regular basis. Any more than that and you are taking a much bigger chance with your motor. Also, my kit is for an 86-95 5.0 liter Mustang. It is from NOS, and works well with our engines, and is about $200 cheaper than one that says it is specifically for a 2.8 or 3.1 liter F-body.
Most people that are new to working on cars are going to be cautious, but some are not going to think about it. It isn't worth you getting hurt to save a few dollars.
Never rely on a jack alone to hold the car up if you are going to be under it. Wear safety glasses when grinding and spraying stuff. When in doubt, ask someone who has more experience than you do.
Also: Nitrous is readily available and a good upgrade for our V6s. I use a 75 HP shot and feel confident that any 60 degree V6 in decent shape can handle that on a fairly regular basis. Any more than that and you are taking a much bigger chance with your motor. Also, my kit is for an 86-95 5.0 liter Mustang. It is from NOS, and works well with our engines, and is about $200 cheaper than one that says it is specifically for a 2.8 or 3.1 liter F-body.
04-20-2003, 09:31 PM
#10
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Car: 85 Camaro SC
Engine: V6
Transmission: 700r4
Dont type in all CAPTIAL LETTERS, THIS MEANS YOUR YELLING ON THE INTERNET. Lately theres been quite a few members who have caps lock on.
04-23-2003, 03:14 PM
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
If you ask about putting NOS on the car:
1. NOS is a manufacturer name- that's IT! It does not stand for nitrous. That's like putting a message up asking "Who has Holley on their car?" Well, Holley what? Holley ignition? Carb? They own Earl's, so do you mean hoses and fittings? And I picked Holley because guess what- they also own NOS. NOS stands for Nitrous Oxide Systems.
2. Other manufacturers of NITROUS systems, besides NOS, are NX, Edelbrock, and Compucar. It's stupid to ask "Who has Edelbrocks' NOS system?" Why would Edelbrock sell NOS? They don't. They sell NITROUS setups.
3. Asking who put NOS on their car will pin you as a recent viewer of "The Slow and Serious". Asking who put Nitrous on their car gains more respect, and you'll probably get a more serious answer.
1. NOS is a manufacturer name- that's IT! It does not stand for nitrous. That's like putting a message up asking "Who has Holley on their car?" Well, Holley what? Holley ignition? Carb? They own Earl's, so do you mean hoses and fittings? And I picked Holley because guess what- they also own NOS. NOS stands for Nitrous Oxide Systems.
2. Other manufacturers of NITROUS systems, besides NOS, are NX, Edelbrock, and Compucar. It's stupid to ask "Who has Edelbrocks' NOS system?" Why would Edelbrock sell NOS? They don't. They sell NITROUS setups.
3. Asking who put NOS on their car will pin you as a recent viewer of "The Slow and Serious". Asking who put Nitrous on their car gains more respect, and you'll probably get a more serious answer.
04-24-2003, 10:50 AM
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Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
Anyone got that webpage with the 3.1 stroker kits and what not for our 2.8?
04-25-2003, 01:02 AM
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by Doward
Anyone got that webpage with the 3.1 stroker kits and what not for our 2.8?
Anyone got that webpage with the 3.1 stroker kits and what not for our 2.8?
Basic specs and info on performance parts- http://users.spec.net/home/emxjc/
ARI Racing engines sells basic stroker kits for 2.8 to 3.1 /3.4 conversions(Keep in mind that the 2.8 blocks are not as reinforced as the later '93-95 3.4 blocks):
http://www.engine-parts.com/GMV6/gm28stroker.html
GM HT3.4 "new" performance crate motors (this is the same motor that came stock in the '93-'95 3.4 Camaros):
http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...id=120&pid=116
Aftermarket performance 3.4 heads ( Fully ported & polished $850- free shipping/ optional 1.8"intake valves add $200) 3.4 cast iron heads will bolt right up to a 2.8 or 3.1 motor:
http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/
62mm Throttle body (stock is 52mm):
http://www3.sympatico.ca/fjpeters/throttlebodies.htm (Link appears to be dead -- TechSmurf)
Headers:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=160965
High performance vavle train components/ Crane Cams ( Camshafts, springs retainers, pushrods, roller rockers...):
http://www.cranecams.com/master/apps/chevy1.htm
or Competition Cams magnum 1.52 steel roller tip rockers (Note: these are the best you can buy for use under the stock 2.8 valvecovers, 1.6 steel and any aluminum rockers need Fiero valvecovers for clearence):
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...CA%2D1413%2D12
ASP crank underdrive pulley ( Buy through summit racing- least expensive- $38.39):
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...1800&x=13&y=14
Last edited by TechSmurf; 03-07-2004 at 02:57 PM.
06-01-2003, 04:23 PM
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Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
I think I might be a little helpfull today.
I want a V8!
Well then go here many people have swaped thier 2.8 or 3.1 for a v8.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/for...=20&forumid=20
I want a 4.3 V6!
Go to the link above although Its the same effort to swap a 4.3 in as it is to swap a V8 and you will have less power and roughly the same poor fuel economy.
SSC
I want a V8!
Well then go here many people have swaped thier 2.8 or 3.1 for a v8.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/for...=20&forumid=20
I want a 4.3 V6!
Go to the link above although Its the same effort to swap a 4.3 in as it is to swap a V8 and you will have less power and roughly the same poor fuel economy.
SSC
07-07-2003, 05:06 AM
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Car: The rs is no more :(
Engine: the 2.8L in my LT
Transmission: 700r4
Use your engine castings before rebuild. Thought I had a large journal block till I ordered bearings for it. Call the dealer with the casting number. They'll tell you how old it really is.
07-24-2003, 10:30 PM
#17
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Car: 1985 GMC Jimmy/1998 Chevy Malibu
Engine: 3.2L turbo Hybrid/bone stock 3100
Transmission: T-5 soon to be 700R4/4T40E
Originally posted by TomP
If you ask about putting NOS on the car:
1. NOS is a manufacturer name- that's IT! It does not stand for nitrous. That's like putting a message up asking "Who has Holley on their car?" Well, Holley what? Holley ignition? Carb? They own Earl's, so do you mean hoses and fittings? And I picked Holley because guess what- they also own NOS. NOS stands for Nitrous Oxide Systems.
2. Other manufacturers of NITROUS systems, besides NOS, are NX, Edelbrock, and Compucar. It's stupid to ask "Who has Edelbrocks' NOS system?" Why would Edelbrock sell NOS? They don't. They sell NITROUS setups.
3. Asking who put NOS on their car will pin you as a recent viewer of "The Slow and Serious". Asking who put Nitrous on their car gains more respect, and you'll probably get a more serious answer.
If you ask about putting NOS on the car:
1. NOS is a manufacturer name- that's IT! It does not stand for nitrous. That's like putting a message up asking "Who has Holley on their car?" Well, Holley what? Holley ignition? Carb? They own Earl's, so do you mean hoses and fittings? And I picked Holley because guess what- they also own NOS. NOS stands for Nitrous Oxide Systems.
2. Other manufacturers of NITROUS systems, besides NOS, are NX, Edelbrock, and Compucar. It's stupid to ask "Who has Edelbrocks' NOS system?" Why would Edelbrock sell NOS? They don't. They sell NITROUS setups.
3. Asking who put NOS on their car will pin you as a recent viewer of "The Slow and Serious". Asking who put Nitrous on their car gains more respect, and you'll probably get a more serious answer.
I'm not going to comment on the original post, and leave it at that.
For some great information and forums for the 60*V6, go here: www.60degreev6.com
The 60*V6 has some great potential, and recently a stock bottom end 3.4 with a turbo laid down a high 300HP (387HP IIRC) dyno pass to the rear wheels, so withthe right parts and tune it is a great engine.
Yes that was in a Camaro, but a 4th gen.Can I use my 3.2L turbo hybrid build as a "follow through" even though it's not in an F-body?
Last edited by The_Raven; 07-24-2003 at 10:32 PM.
07-24-2003, 11:00 PM
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Car: The rs is no more :(
Engine: the 2.8L in my LT
Transmission: 700r4
LOL. that is the most valuable piece of advice on this topic. I buy broken craftsman tools all the time and do just that. ROFLOL.
08-07-2003, 10:58 PM
#20
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Found a 2.8/3.1 expanded overview of internal parts- could be helpful to someone.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=1&catalogid=1
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=1&catalogid=1
02-23-2004, 02:29 AM
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Car: 1999 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LS1 - 346 ci
Transmission: 4L60E
If your car has an oil leak from around the back of the manifold, it's usually the distributor o-ring.
Check out this post on how to fix it.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=151527
Check out this post on how to fix it.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=151527
03-15-2004, 12:50 PM
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Forged 84mm racing Crankshaft-
(note: 2.8L motor is 76mm crank, 3.1L & 3.4L motors are 84mm)
http://www.jbodyperformance.com/bottomend.html
These bottomend j-body parts are fully compatable with our RWD blocks. The intake manilfolds and heads are different so proper calculations need to be made on compression ratios when choosing pistons.
----------------------------------------
FDP current link for 62mm Billet Throttlebodies- They are temp down. http://www3.sympatico.ca/fjpeters/
FDP thorttlebodies are still currently sold through this site though. Contact them and they should be able to get ahold of Franz for the proper linkage fitment for our RWD intakes.
http://www.jbodyperformance.com/intakeN.html
http://www.jbodyperformance.com/fdptb.html
------------------------------------
JBP home page- Click on there 2nd gen link for "some" performance V6 parts that will work on our RWD 60*V6 engines
http://www.jbodyperformance.com/
(note: 2.8L motor is 76mm crank, 3.1L & 3.4L motors are 84mm)
http://www.jbodyperformance.com/bottomend.html
These bottomend j-body parts are fully compatable with our RWD blocks. The intake manilfolds and heads are different so proper calculations need to be made on compression ratios when choosing pistons.
----------------------------------------
FDP current link for 62mm Billet Throttlebodies- They are temp down. http://www3.sympatico.ca/fjpeters/
FDP thorttlebodies are still currently sold through this site though. Contact them and they should be able to get ahold of Franz for the proper linkage fitment for our RWD intakes.
http://www.jbodyperformance.com/intakeN.html
http://www.jbodyperformance.com/fdptb.html
------------------------------------
JBP home page- Click on there 2nd gen link for "some" performance V6 parts that will work on our RWD 60*V6 engines
http://www.jbodyperformance.com/
04-09-2004, 09:34 PM
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Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Copied directly from the board rules...
"We are not advocating that you not voice your opinion about someone else's appearance decisions. However, there is a difference between saying "I don't care for that." and "That looks like ****!" If you feel that the second method of voicing your opinion is valid, please learn some tact. Your parents might not have taught you any manners, but you sure had better learn them if you want to continue to be a member of this message board. If you absolutely can not respond with polite negative criticism, then simply do not reply at all."
"We are not advocating that you not voice your opinion about someone else's appearance decisions. However, there is a difference between saying "I don't care for that." and "That looks like ****!" If you feel that the second method of voicing your opinion is valid, please learn some tact. Your parents might not have taught you any manners, but you sure had better learn them if you want to continue to be a member of this message board. If you absolutely can not respond with polite negative criticism, then simply do not reply at all."
01-10-2005, 02:57 AM
#24
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Car: '99 Trans Am, '86 Camaro
Engine: LS1, Scrap
Transmission: T56, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Stock ZT, 3.42 Open
Decommissioned Readme -- Locked
This thread has officially reached the end of its lifespan. Future Readme requests and additions should be posted here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=273294
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=273294
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